When my husband and I visited the Grand Canyon this spring, I noticed most of the buildings around the South Rim were so rustic and blended right into the rocky backdrop. While in one of the stores near the El Tovar Lodge, where Henry and I ate lunch, I picked up a book about a woman who was responsible for some of that architecture, Mary Colter: Builder upon the Red Earth.
Colter grew up in Pittsburgh and then St. Paul, Minn., before heading to the California School of Design (now the San Francisco Art Institute) where she studied art and design. She was learning architecture as an apprentice at a local architect's office.
Her plan was to become a teacher to support her widowed mother and feeble sister, which she did for 15 years.
In 1902, she went to work as an architect and designer for the Fred Harvey Company that built lodges and restaurants as tourist travel on the rails went west to California.
One of her earliest projects was designing the Hopi House, a building on the Grand Canyon South Rim that looks just like a Puebloan dwelling, constructed with local, natural materials. It was built to sell authentic Native American arts and crafts and other goods. In its early days, Hopi artisans actually lived there while making their wares. I may have bought this book there.
It is across a driveway from El Tovar Lodge; Colter didn't design that building, but she designed the interior, always acquiring authentic decor and making it look used and well-worn, which aggravated workers who liked shiny, new objects.
Years later, after working on projects from New Mexico to California, she designed the Grand Canyon’s Desert View Watchtower near the eastern end of Rim Road. The 7-story structure was built from mostly locally sourced rocks and reused timber, with Colter overseeing the placement of every stone.
It's fashioned after several ancient Puebloan kivas and appears to grow almost organically from the canyon rim.
It still is open for tours today for visitors to catch a sweeping view of the canyon. Unfortunately, the administration had gutted the National Park Service staff prior to our visit and the Watchtower closed early, preventing us from entering.
A few years after Watchtower opened, Colter designed the Bright Angel Lodge just down from El Tovar. It opened in 1935.
Still later, in the 1940s, she redesigned the interior of the Painted Desert Inn in the Petrified Forest National Park in Arizona, a building we visited on our Southwest trip last fall. Its redesign included murals painted by a local Hopi artist that Colter enlisted. I know I took pictures of those murals, but I can't find them. I do have a picture of the glass ceiling tiles that Civilian Conservation Corps workers painted and installed. Colter left those intact for us to enjoy 80 years later.
As I was reading this book, I was grateful to have seen so much of Colter's work, although I wish I had dallied longer.
It also made me think back to our Pennsylvania days when we explored Fallingwater, an iconic home jutting from a mountain and cantilevered over a creek, and other Frank Lloyd Wright designs.
It struck me that both architects were so similar; both believed architecture should be an extension of the natural environment, the American landscape.
They both were influential early 20th century architects: he in the Prairie style, she in the Southwest style with more focus on the land’s history.
Her career actually began a few decades before his, and there are other obvious differences. She's a woman and he's a man. And, you've never heard of her.
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This book is distributed by the Grand Canyon Conservancy and you can buy it at GrandCanyon.org. There are other books out there on her, including one that says she's a myth and the stories about her are false. But she did design those buildings, just not like an architect today does. Licensing was different in her day and she only was licensed in California. She never saw the need to get her license for other states because the Fred Harvey Company had a group of licensed architects who did the final drawings of her designs. One owner of her buildings today says the myth book author is “clearly a misogynist,” which is entirely plausible given that too many people still think women aren't capable of doing “man work.”