In Griot Time

by Banning Eyre

Djelimady Tounkara is only one of the memorable people you will meet in this dramatic narrative of life among the griot musicians of Mali. Born into families where music and the tradition of griot story-telling is a heritage and a privilege, Djelimady and his fellow griots -- both men and women -- live their lives at the intersection of ancient traditions and the modern entertainment industry. During the seven months he spent living and studying with Djelimady, Banning Eyre immersed himself in a world that will fascinate you as it did him.Eyre creates a range of unforgettable portraits. Some of the people who stride through his pages are internationally known, musicians like Salif Keita, Oumou Sangare, and Grammy winner Ali Farka Toure. But the lesser-known characters are equally Adama Kouyate, Djelimady's dynamic wife; Moussa Kouyate, the Tounkara family's own griot; Yayi Kanoute, the flamboyant jelimuso (female griot) who failed to take America by storm; Foutanga Babani Sissoko, the mysterious millionaire who rebuilt an entire town and whose patronage is much sought after by the griots of Bamako.But the picture Eyre draws is not just a series of portraits. Out of their interactions comes a perceptive panorama of life in Mali in the late twentieth century. The narrative gives us a street-level view of the transformation of musical taste and social customs, the impact of technology and the pressures of poverty, at a crucial time in Mali's history. In individual after individual, family after family, we see the subtle conflicts of heritage and change. Even the complications of democracy -- with democracy, mango vendors think they can charge anything they want,Djelimady points out -- are woven into an unforgettable saga of one man, his family, his profession, and the world of Malian music.

Genres: Music, Africa, Nonfiction

272 pages, Paperback

First published April 24, 2000

About the author

Banning Eyre is a freelance writer and guitarist and the senior editor and producer of the public radio program Afropop Worldwide. He is the author of In Griot Time: An American Guitarist in Mali, Playing With Fire: Fear and Self-Censorship in Zimbabwean Music, and Guitar Atlas: Africa, and the coauthor of AFROPOP! An Illustrated Guide to Contemporary African Music. Eyre is a contributor to National Public Radio's All Things Considered, and his writing has been published in Billboard, Guitar Player, Salon.com, the Boston Phoenix, CMJ, Option, Folk Roots, Global Rhythm, and other publications. He has also performed and recorded with Thomas Mapfumo.

Reviews

[Wes Freeman · Rating 5 out of 5]

Unpretentious memoir of white American journalist/guitarist's 7-month stay in Mali. Author tells it straight, has deep regard for Malian music, but doesn't let that overwhelm the narrative. Still, book is a juicy meal for African music geeks, not the least because it's half a gossip rag on a griot family from the suburbs of Bamako. Turns out that's the way you want to read about Africa, as its literary reputation for otherness proceeds it and a metric shit-ton of books like this have the author's disorientation on full display with only nominal attempts at characterization or real narrative drive. Author has different take on the deal. He moved to Lafiabougou to learn Manding guitar from Djelimady Tounkara, lead guitarist for Bamako's big deal Rail Band. What you're hearing about is his nightly guitar lessons with Djelimady and level-headed excursions into Bamako's music scene. This is reportage, which isn't to say author doesn't have a colorful, and wicked informative, story to tell.

Immersed in the world of the praise-singing (jeliya) griot clans of Bamako, author's moral antennae gets traffic when he tries to parse the relationship the griot, who makes his/her banks praising wealthy noblemen by tying them and their ancestors to the proud history of Mali, and his/her patron. The most renowned of these patrons is the astonishing Babani Sissoko, who is actually of the griot caste, but plays the role of nobleman when he surrounds himself with more talented griots who all sing his praise. One of these griots, author takes some time to point out, is Salif Keita, a member of Mali's noble caste who found his way to music as the front man for the Rail Band. Author is at pains to choose sides when he considers the march of modernity in Mali, but he doesn't let this turn into a wankfest about musical or cultural "authenticty," praises be. His most astute bit of analysis comes when he adopts a Bambara proverb as a metaphor for an American who decides to step outside his culture and learn the technical, superficial aspects of another: No matter how long a piece of wood floats in the river, it will never be a crocodile. In lesser hands, this would be a wooden book about trying, and failing, to become an amphibious reptile.

[Anders · Rating 4 out of 5]

Yes! A book that sounds like it stems from diligent journal keeping whilst spending 6 months with heavy Malian guitarists and musicians. Not an all positivity-glazed report but an educating and engaging sharing of a unique experience.

[Hisham · Rating 5 out of 5]

Heptatonic griot Manding son vs Pentatonic warrior caste Songhai daughter

[Darren Hemmings · Rating 5 out of 5]

It was only a couple of years ago that I got switched on to the music of Mali, via Ali Farka Toure in particular. When listening to it I always feel like I'm there; it just evokes such warmth and soul. This book manages exactly the same thing, drawing you into the world of Mali musicians and their culture. Naturally as someone who plays guitar I was fascinated by Eyre's descriptions of the Malian guitar style, as taught to him by his mentor and host (and Super Rail Band legend) Djelimady Tounkara. Guitar geekery aside though, this does a fine job of immersing you in the world of Mali and its musicians, explaining the complex hierarchies and outlining the way in which the communities are structured. Like all good "travel" books (even though in this instance Eyre is only staying in the one place), this drops you right into the Malian landscape and has you feeling very much like you are there. Play some Farka Toure, Super Rail Band or Toumani Diabate whilst reading to really round out the experience!

[Aaron Kohn · Rating 4 out of 5]

Great view into the status of Griot culture. Don't expect much music theory or critique . . . this is an ethnography.