Fashion Killa: How Hip-Hop Revolutionized High Fashion

by Sowmya Krishnamurthy

A cinematic narrative of glamour, grit, luxury, and luck, Fashion Killa draws on exclusive interviews with the leaders of the fashion world to tell the story of the hip-hop artists, designers, stylists, and unsung heroes who fought the power and reinvented style around the world over the last fifty years.

Set in the sartorial scenes of New York, Paris, and beyond, music journalist Sowmya Krishnamurthy’s reporting on the intersecting histories of hip-hop and contemporary fashion focuses on the risk takers and rebels—the artists, designers, stylists, models, and tastemakers—who challenged a systemic power structure and historically reinvented the worlds of prêt-à-porter and haute couture.

Fashion Killa is a classic tale of a modern renaissance; of an exclusionary industry gate-crashed by innovators; of impresarios—Sean “Diddy” Combs, Dapper Dan, Virgil Abloh—hoisting hip-hop from the streets to the stratosphere; of supernovas—Lil’ Kim, Cardi B, and Kimora Lee Simmons—allying with kingmakers—Anna Wintour, Donatella Versace, Tommy Hilfiger, and Ralph Lauren; of traditionalist fashion houses—Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Saint Laurent—transformed into temples of rap gods.

Krishnamurthy explores the connections between the DIY hip-hop scene and the exclusive upper-echelons of high fashion. She discusses the sociopolitical forces that defined fashion and tracks the influence of music and streetwear on the most exclusive (and exclusionary) luxury brands. At the intersection of cultural commentary and oral history, Fashion Killa commemorates the contributions of hip-hop to music, fashion, and our culture at large.

Genres: Fashion, Music, Nonfiction, Art, History, Hip Hop, Celebrity

304 pages, Hardcover

Published October 10, 2023

Reviews

[b. ♡ · Rating 5 out of 5]

(Thank you to libro.fm for providing me an alc of this book for review!)

4.5/5 rounded up!

This book was equal parts informative and entertaining, and I love how the author organized the chapters to not just be chronological but to also highlight key individuals (both designers and hip-hop artists) of the eras.

It was fascinating learning about the different behind the scenes elements of iconic album art, magazine covers, etc. and the close friendships various hip-hop artists would have with fashion moguls and designers. These little tidbits and first-hand accounts of iconic cultural moments kept me deeply engaged, and I finished the bulk of the book in about a day.

Another aspect I appreciated was that the glaring issue of how the fashion industry would steal from Black designers and perpetuate racism against Black consumers while profiting from the community at large was woven throughout the book and remained a salient point of discussion.

Overall, would highly recommend to any reader regardless of whether or not they’re a fan of hip-hop or fashion.

[Traci Thomas · Rating 3 out of 5]

The idea of this book was good but the execution fell flat. The organization was off. The editor failed here.

[Lisa · Rating 2 out of 5]

This reads like a series of connected Wikipedia entries: super informative, with numerous relevant references in terms of companies, celebrities, artists, and brands. For anyone with next to no background of fashion’s role in the hip hop (and subsequent) movements, this is a great overview.

Some of the backstories surprised me (I had no idea Little Richard struggled with his sexual identity for instance, or what “the trap” is. On a side note now I know Nicky Minaj did not, in fact, have a hive of pollinating insects captured in some sort of mechanism.)

However, I would have been more engaged if it presented a unique point of view instead. How about comparing and contrasting it to the rise of Asian influencers and luxury brands? Or breaking down the mechanisms of exclusivity and the trajectory of different players in a culture that is co-opted for its cool factor? We’re left with the feeling there’s an element of cultural exceptionalism at play with this particular high fashion influence, which prevents the author from going a step further into deeper insight.

Overall, a good start, but it has a ways to go to deliver more impact.

A handful of the mentions amongst hundreds related to movements, styles, location, events, brands, and celebs:

Regional tribalism
Culture vulture
Cultural fetishism
Appropriation

Lo lifes
Backpack rapper (e.g. The Roots)

Ghetto fabulous
Drug dealing
The Source magazine
Vibe magazine
Signalling
Rockafella records
Dip Set collective
Trap artists
Brand partnerships
Metrosexuals
Racism
Homosexuality
Hypersexuality
Gender identity
BLM

Strip clubs
Paris fashion week
New York
The Met Gala

Dapper Dan
Snoop
Puffy
Tupac
Biggy
Sean combs & Mama Combs
Diane Dixon
90s supermodels
KimOra Lee Simmons
DJ jazzy Jeff
Lil Kim
J.Lo
Versace
Jay z
Kanye
Kim K
Jacob the jeweller
Willow Perone
Pusha T
Fern malliss
Kid Cudi
Virgil abloh
A$AP rocky
Hailey bieber
Ti
Gucci mane
Andre 3000
Lil Richard
David Beckham
Tyler the creator
Offset
Lil Nas X
Dr Jonathan Michael square
Nico hiraga
Nicky Minaj
Karl Lagerfeld
Cardi b


Ralph Lauren
Balmain
YSL
Goyard
Givenchy
LV
Bape
Vanguard
Maison Margiela
Carhartt
Timberland
Yeezy
Baby phat
BBC
Fendi
Off-white
Benjamin bixby
DKNY
Ferragamo
Kenzo
Louboutin

[Tamyka · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved everything about this book. Having lived alongside the book’s timeline, it was fun remembering exactly the moments referenced. The narrator mispronounced several key names and terms but it was fine overall. The book is well written and rather comprehensive and I’d recommend it to anyone interested in fashion or the history or legacy of hip hop.

[Vnunez-Ms_luv2read · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great read into how fashion and the world of hip-hop came together. Also sheds some light on which designers embraced people of color and those who did not. Loved the information about “Dapper Dan”. It always amazed me how when one did not want to dress hip hop stars and upcoming rappers, when he stepped in and filled a niche, he was condemned for it. They shut him down yet some of the fashion houses/designers representatives wanted to purchase his fashions. Very good read Thanks to NetGalley, the author and the publisher for the arc of this book. Receiving the book in this manner had no bearing on my thoughts.

[Alyssa · Rating 5 out of 5]

The format choice (each chapter focusing on one or two designers / brands) is lovely. This is a side of the fashion world I didn't know so much about and this book feels THOROUGH.

(Disclosure, I received an ARC through a Goodreads Giveaway.)

[Frank Simpson · Rating 5 out of 5]

I bought this book because of the cover and the interview the author gave on The Breakfast Club. I'm glad I picked this up. As a hip-hop fan, I learned so much about the backstory of famous moments like Aaliyah wearing Tommy Hilfiger or Kanye West's love of fashion. It was a pretty fast and easy read.

I'd recommend this to anyone who loves hip-hop.

[Michael · Rating 4 out of 5]

I'm not one to usually write reviews, but I thought I'd share some of my thoughts since I won this in a giveaway. First of all, this is a wonderful overview of the history of the relationship between hip-hop and fashion. Most chapters focus on a specific designer or a specific era in the evolution of hip-hop fashion. While I know a bit about the history of hip-hop, I'm basically clueless when it comes to fashion so I really appreciated this structure. It's very informative, but it doesn't feel like a chore to read, especially with the number of amusing anecdotes.
If I had any critique, it's that I almost wish there was more analysis of why the fashion world co-opted hip-hop attire, as well as more about the role of gender, sexuality, and class in connecting these two worlds. That's not to say that it's all history and no analysis - all of these topics are discussed at one point or another, I just wanted some more of it.
Overall, I'd say this a great book to pick up if you're interested in the worlds of hip-hop and fashion and want to learn more about how they've intertwined over the past 50 years.

[Eric Dowling · Rating 3 out of 5]

A fun read but ultimately didn’t have enough meat on it. When the author would get to interesting areas or avenues to go down it was already time to move on to the next thing. It reads more like a magazine deep dive than a true analysis and deep dive into how Hip Hop revolutionized high fashion, which is fine but I was expecting more.

[Melody · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a HOT book! I just loved it!

[Indra · Rating 4 out of 5]

📖 Dressed in Rhymes: The Fashion of Hip-Hop is a captivating exploration of the dynamic intersection between fashion and hip-hop culture. While the organization could be improved, the book excels in providing a comprehensive, engaging, and insightful look into this vibrant world. 👕🎤

🌟 Strengths:

○ Engaging and Informative: Balances entertainment and information, filled with memorable anecdotes and first-hand accounts that keep readers hooked.
○ Cultural Context: Addresses critical issues like cultural appropriation, racism, and the complex relationship between the fashion industry and the Black community.
○ Unique Perspectives: Highlights key individuals and their impact, offering a rich narrative that spans decades.

🌟 Weaknesses:

○ Organization: The structure could be better, and could have improved editing for a smoother flow.
○ Unique Point of View: While packed with information, it occasionally lacks deeper, unique insights or comparative analyses.

🌟 Highlights:

○ Iconic Moments: Fascinating behind-the-scenes stories about iconic album art, magazine covers, and cultural events.
○ Historical Context: Provides an informative overview of the evolution of hip-hop fashion, from streetwear to high-end couture.
○ Dapper Dan: Offers insightful discussion on this controversial yet influential figure, highlighting the complexities of the fashion industry's relationship with hip-hop.

🍦 Final Scoop: Despite some organizational issues and the desire for more unique insights, Dressed in Rhymes is a must-read for anyone interested in the intersection of fashion and music. It offers a comprehensive and engaging look at the cultural significance of this relationship, making it a valuable addition to your reading list. 🍦📚🎵

[Mark · Rating 2 out of 5]

The subtitle is a misnomer. I think hip hop has always been influenced by high fashion, never the other way around. But while I may quibble with the author on that point, I would say the book provides much food for thought in exploring the impact of clothing throughout all of hip hop's history. While hip hop always pointed to the four pillars to mark its culture (DJ: music, MC: rap, B-Boys: dance and graffiti: art) the impact of clothing is rarely explored. Hip-hop always had a uniform based on labels. Punk, folk, country and glam had their style, but rap style was based on labels. Adidas shell top sneakers. Kangol hats. Polo shirts. Tommy Hilfiger. Timberland boots. This is something present even today. You didn't just wear any sued sneakers, you wore Pumas. You didn't wear any leather bomber jacket, you had to have the right name visible to all. The exploration of that style evolution would have been an interesting read, instead of trying to force the narrative hip hop influenced the fashion world you see come out of Europe and Manhattan. Sorry, that's not the case.

[Kyle Jahm · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fashion Killa by Sowmya Krishnamurthy was a great book which gave us a look into hip hop stars who influenced the fashion game from Tupac to Biggie and Jay Z to Kanye and Virgil. They were very influential, we saw Tupac creating the west coast fashion culture and Biggie creating it for the east coast. Virgil was another man who is seen as an influential pop/fashion figure who has really left his touch on the game and we see that throughout the book. All around the book was easy to read for me and kept me engaged which is pretty hard for books to do. It was a quick book that can keep you interested from the first page to the last. The only reason I don"t give it 5 stars is because the information in the book was limited. A lot of it was very surface level, nothing really in depth most of the information we saw you could get in a ten second google search but honestly if you're into the fashion game and enjoy some history about pop culture in the modern era you will love this book!

[Book Reviews by Tara aka Queen of Memoirs · Rating 4 out of 5]

Hip-hop is not just music. It’s a lifestyle. What I enjoyed most about Fashion Killa is that it highlights hip-hop in all of its glory covering everything from fashion, to music, models, designers, magazines, record labels and artists. It addresses all aspects of the culture including sexuality and how todays artists have chosen to embrace what was once shunned and considered taboo.
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I must admit when I first started listening to this audiobook I didn’t think I was gonna like it. I thought it was going to be filled with hours of boring information about the fashion industry. But that was not the case. Most of the stories turned out to be fairly entertaining.
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Some of my favorites were about Bad Boy Records, LL Cool J, Lil Kim, Tommy Hilfiger, and Dapper Dan.
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Because of Fashion Killa, I am happy to say that after many years, I have finally ended my personal protest against the designer Tommy Hilfiger. Decades ago I heard a rumor that Tommy Hilfiger stated he didn’t make his clothing for Black people. Over the years, this rumor has stayed with me. Even when Aaliyah became a spokes person for the brand, I wondered was it his way of covering up the statement he had made. But I am happy to say, Krishnamurthy has finally laid that rumor to rest. According to her, the rumor was false. She writes about how Hilfiger went on the Oprah Winfrey Show to dispelled the rumor. He even hired investigators to try to locate where the rumor originated. I was happy to read this story. It finally dispelled a rumor that has stayed with me for many years.
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Unfortunately, not all of the stories left a good taste in my mouth. One in particular that pissed me off was about the outdoors brand Timberland. A spokesperson for the company admitted he would never market to the hip-hop community because he wouldn’t want to turn his back on their target market. This comment felt like a slap my the face. Then, Krishnamurthy goes on to say, that after receiving backlash later that same year, the company tried to retract the fact that this statement was made, by heading a “give racism the boot” campaign, using LL Cool J as one of its models🤯.
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I enjoyed learning how hip-hop became a driving force in the fashion industry. And although I enjoyed most of the stories, i must admit there were a few dry moments. During those times, it felt like I was listening to one big magazine editorial, a little boring.
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A lot of the stories about old school hip-hop artists, weren’t new to me. I’ve heard them before in other books or magazines. But I didn’t mind the recap.
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Thanks to Libro.fm for gifting me early access to this audiobook in exchange for an honest review.

[B Pastore · Rating 4 out of 5]

I won this book in a Goodreads giveaway!!

This is a well written book. It starts out from the beginning of hip hop all the way thru to the modern day.

As the hip hop artists became more popular and well known -the fashion industry - even the fashion industry of Europe started seeing money in using their design/fashion look in designing other fashions around them - so that they could take advance of the new hip hop rage.

This book is very well written and you can tell that the author did her homework and researched it thoroughly. I recommended it for anyone that is interested in hip hop or fashion.

NOTE: I personally have no interest in Hip Hop or Fashion and I thoroughly enjoyed this book from beginning to end!

Looking forward to putting this book out in our Little Free Library for the community to enjoy. :-)

[B · Rating 5 out of 5]

I learned about this book after hearing the author on the radio. I didn't realize the rumor about Tommy Hilfiger being racist was not true and I wanted to learn more. This book is an excellent read for hip hop fans of any age. As a '90s kid, I loved reading about my favorite artists like Tupac Shakur, Lil' Kim and Aaliyah. I didn't realize how much I didn't know until I read this book. The photos are great and gave me a lot of nostalgia for the good old days. I want to bring out my old Cross Colours t-shirts and Baby Phat jeans!

[Simon · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was a fun read, I learnt a lot of stuff I didn’t know and hope I remember as much as possible from it. Dapper Dan’s story is incredible.

Wish there was more of a Wu-Tang / 90s hiphop deep dive, but like most of the book it mainly skims the surface (which makes it into an easy read!).

Easy read, divided in the short chapters.

The Puff Daddy parts has aged very badly, but that’s not the authors fault. Wild to be reminded how Kanye has gotten even worse since this was published.

Thought the font and physical paper of my book were really flimsy though!

[Chandler Richie · Rating 5 out of 5]

So freaking good! Definitely doesn’t read like a boring nonfiction. If you’re interested in hip hop, celebrity influence, cultural influence &/or their relationships related to big fashion names this book is for you. Also how some of these names grew up alongside the boom of hip hop & how you wouldn’t ever guess it! It’s insane, inspiring & motivational.

6 stars!

[Carla · Rating 5 out of 5]

I picked this up for my husband, but once I started reading I couldn’t put it down. Well researched and written, it’s filled with interesting stories, events, and people. It will have you googling iconic images and videos from the past. If you are interested in hip hop and/or fashion, this book will illuminate how they have intersected over the years and the cultural impact.

[Michael · Rating 3 out of 5]

A really fun topic and an overall perfectly fine book. That said, it felt incomplete. As Krishnamurthy approached present day there was a chunk of time skipped, making the last two chapters feel a bit like an afterthought. Considering how big hip-hop has been in the last ten years of pop culture, I just felt like there was more to be explored there.

[WordMorris · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a fun book! I really loved reading this, and I was appreciative of the content. I love fashion and I know nothing about hip-hop. I do know that white Americans have a long history of appropriating black culture and I'm glad that a book like this was written to add context to those who have contributed to art in so many ways.

[Stephanie Dargusch Borders · Rating 5 out of 5]

Take your time with this one and have your phone handy—there are a ton of historical references and even though the book does include an insert of photos, it’s marginal. Thus this read took me longer than it normally would. Loved it.

[Mia Lascarro · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was very informative and rad
It was well organized and made me interested in something I don’t know much about🔥🔥🔥
I thought it was very funny how it ended with a timeline of Kanye’s downfall
Over totally tubular book would recommend😎😎😎

[Shà · Rating 1 out of 5]

It's a slow read and it's taking it's time to get to the point for me but so far I'm hanging in there..the idea of the book is good but the execution is falling flat and a lot if it's redundant information as well

[Krishna · Rating 5 out of 5]

A very well researched book. A must read

[Megan Ruskey · Rating 5 out of 5]

this is the kind of book you display on your coffee table this is the kind of book you read in public let people know you never stop learning and you've got taste. expensive taste

[Vilma · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.75

[Tracy Conner · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed learning about how hip hop has influenced fashion over the years.

[Ron Frampton · Rating 4 out of 5]

A good book about the fashion industry and hip hop music.

[Mary · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very interesting insight into hip hop and fashion. I knew very little about either so I had to Google a lot.