Jeans: A Cultural History of an American Icon

by James Sullivan

The story of America’s best-loved garment, from the humble pants Levi Strauss sold to California miners in the 1870s to big-city socialites spending big money—$300 and up—for premium jeans today

Since their emergence over a century and a half ago, blue jeans have been worn by every segment of American society, and exported around the world as a symbol of our civilization. In Jeans, James Sullivan traces the evolution of jeans from a simple utilitarian garment into what fashion critics have called “the American uniform,” the very embodiment of our society’s ethos.

Beginning with the adoption of front-buckled trousers as a style of dress in nineteenth-century America (derided as “fornication pants” by Mormon leader Brigham Young), Sullivan tells the story of the riveted blue jeans’ humble origin as “waist overall” work pants. He then follows their mass production by such regional entrepreneurs as San Francisco’s legendary Levi Strauss and their further popularization as youth clothing and Westernwear in the twentieth century with the rise of such national brands as Lee and Wrangler. Sullivan shows how such film stars as John Wayne, James Dean, Marlon Brando, and Marilyn Monroe evangelized jeans for a new generation, and how in recent decades designer fashion and consumer culture have combined to make them ubiquitous: worn by rappers, hipsters, discount shoppers, and politicians, embodying the fashion and cultural ideas of vastly different segments of society.

Touching on a broad-ranging host of topics—from the rise and fall of natural indigo dyes to the enduring mythos of the cowboy, from the explosion of youth culture in the Baby Boom era to the globalization of the textile industry and the erosion of American manufacturing—Jeans is a history of American culture as told through its pants.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Fashion, Microhistory, American History

320 pages, Hardcover

First published August 17, 2006

Reviews

[Chandler]

This book can be an example of how my reading tastes have changed with experience. Years ago, when I was still in high school, I loved this book. I enjoyed how it described the general ideas and history behind some of the biggest jean brands. Yet, now, after years of reading other non-fiction books, I dislike it so much I can’t even finish it. What gives?

I think it is for two reasons: The age of the book, and the writing style.

There is no getting around the fact that this book is old. When it comes to history books, this normally isn’t a bad thing, but here, it is even more pronounced when it approaches the ‘modern day’ of the sale tactics of denim. It was first published back in 2006, which means that it covers trends of the early 2000’s, many of which have fallen out of style some 20 years later. Celebrities are referenced that kids today may not know of, let alone recognize. Also, this book dates itself considerably by having an intro and a conclusion describing the prevalence of customers who are willing to spend $2,000 on a pair of jeans. Coming from someone who survived The Great Recession that occurred just a few years later, this seems laughable to me now. Also, one has to wonder how many of these extravagant brands are still in business after the Financial Crisis of 2008.

Then there is the writing style and formatting. While the writing is just fine, the type font is set in blue ink color, perhaps to reference the color of denim. While I understand the choice stylistically, it does make it difficult for my eyes to read.

Overall, I’m just going to give this book to someone who may enjoy it more than me. Maybe they will enjoy it today as much as I did in my youth.

[Alex · Rating 4 out of 5]

At times it appears Sullivan isn't sure how, exactly, to make his point. Certain chapters contain passages that don't seem to relate to the previous paragraph. However, I found this book widely informitive and highly entertaining. Sullivan addresses commodification, history, and consumerism seamlessly.

[Ryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

A pretty decent book that does a good job of describing the history of jeans. However, sometimes it tends to ramble and make sudden jumps in topic from one paragraph to another, making it feel very jarring to read at times. Overall, I would say I enjoyed this book but would really only recommend it to people who are interested in this text as a research topic rather than a pleasure read

[ketall · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very good book. I like the connection he made with jeans and culture, and how they played off one another. I also liked the humor and his ability to weave in little stories to better illustrate his points.

[Omar · Rating 2 out of 5]

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[Polly]

indigo 168
mills 192
Hargroves weavers draft & clothing assitant