Food as indulgence, certainly, but also food as a taboo, a cruelty, a desperate need, a failed sex aid, and a means of making a living. Including Graham Swift on the life and death of a butcher, J. M. Coetzee’s attempt at vegetarianism in Texas, Giles Foden at Idi Amin’s dinner table, and Sean French on the delights of Icelandic cuisine (including roast puffin and whale sushi). Plus: Georges Perec, Romesh Gunesekera, John Lanchester, Jane Rogers, Margaret Visser and Joan Smith.
Ian Jack is a British journalist and writer who has edited the Independent on Sunday and the literary magazine Granta and now writes regularly for The Guardian.
A fantastic collection of food history, theory, and aesthetic. I am drawn to the format of Granta, so perhaps I am predisposed to enjoy this, but I read every word of this edition. This is an excellent bit of non-technical food writing that would work well as an adjunct to traditional education in food or, perhaps, anthropology.
An anthology of fiction and non fiction pieces and excerpts centering around food, cooking and eating. Several pieces contain recipes, although not any I would attempt to follow. Very much an artefact of its time (the mid-nineties) and with a majority of male contributors, and a prevailing tone of superiority and self satisfaction I am reminded of a certain, once ubiquitous, male dominated, intellectual style that I am grateful has mostly disappeared - or at least is no longer represented in my library.
I quoted a paragraph from this in my book Household Stories/Katei Monogatari. Credited, of course.
I bought GRANTA for years, but at some point during my 26 years in Japan, fell off the subscription list. I think in retrospect I was simply running out of bookshelf room and lapsed... rather regret it now.