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Two Wings of a Nightingale: Persian Soul, Islamic Heart
Iran is probably the most misunderstood country on Earth, and one of the most fascinating. Few people in the West know anything about Iranian people beyond their current politics and religion. In this book, award-winning travel writer Jill Worrall, with her friend Reza Mirkhalaf, a leading tour manager from Tehran, describe an Iran the world has forgotten about. Using the threads of Iran's silk road heritage as a basis for a road trip travelogue, they visit places both ancient and modern, many rarely written about by westerners. Jill's vivid observations are complemented by Reza's expert knowledge of Iran's history, religion, culture and architecture.
During their journey, Jill and Reza explore the caravanserai that were once a vital part of the silk routes that once crossed Persia, while also encountering many ordinary Iranians. The result is a picture of Iran that offers a detailed insight into the landscapes, landmarks and people of the country at a grassroots level. The title reflects the dual nature o Iranian life and also the fact Jill and Reza are two people of different sexes, different religions and cultures travelling together, yet keeping their travels harmoniously on course. Together they visit the holiest city in Iran, Mashhad, paddle in the Persian Gulf, pass close by the borders of both Afghanistan and Iraq, stay with local families, play in the snow near Mt Ararat, pray in mosques, read poetry in Shiraz and eat ice creams in Isfahan.
During their journey, Jill and Reza explore the caravanserai that were once a vital part of the silk routes that once crossed Persia, while also encountering many ordinary Iranians. The result is a picture of Iran that offers a detailed insight into the landscapes, landmarks and people of the country at a grassroots level. The title reflects the dual nature o Iranian life and also the fact Jill and Reza are two people of different sexes, different religions and cultures travelling together, yet keeping their travels harmoniously on course. Together they visit the holiest city in Iran, Mashhad, paddle in the Persian Gulf, pass close by the borders of both Afghanistan and Iraq, stay with local families, play in the snow near Mt Ararat, pray in mosques, read poetry in Shiraz and eat ice creams in Isfahan.
272 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 2011
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Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews
January 7, 2021
As New Zealand travel writer Jill Worrall says, “Iran is the most misunderstood country in the world, and its people are the most feared.” But this reputation just whets her appetite for recruiting bands of tourists for regular tours of Iran, with the help of several fantastic local guides. It's entertaining and fun, with some show-stopping discoveries. For example, inscribed on the wall of a several-hundred-year-old abandoned caravan inn, they find the following poem, signed by a woman named “Ashref Ansar Begum, an inhabitant of Azamibad”:
Because I was parted from you,
I built houses everywhere.
And I created the mud of those houses
with the blood of my heart.
Because I was parted from you,
I built houses everywhere.
And I created the mud of those houses
with the blood of my heart.
August 26, 2024
Jag medger villigt ett visst mått av iranofili - jag tror att väldigt få klassiska liberaler som har läst om Cyrus cylinder och har någorlunda historieintresse kan unvika det - men även bortom detta intresse vill jag påstå att detta är en läsvärd bok. Den är söt, anekdotisk, och har en tydlig röd tråd. Kanske inte speciellt utmanande, men givet hur världen ser ut tycker jag nog att det knappast behövs.
June 1, 2015
Significantly better than the authors previous book set in Pakistan A Blonde in the Bazaar, this one shows a lot more depth to the writing.
It is an easy read - and isn't overly long at 265 pages, but it covers most of Iran, and gets the mix right - not too much on any one topic, but not so short that we are rushed through a highlights reel of Persian-Must-Sees.
With her Iranian friend and guide Reza, and Reza B their driver, they spend around a month in a circuit of Iran visiting some of the 999 caravanserai forming the many threads of the Silk Road or Silk Route.
As Reza is a wealth of historical, religious, cultural and architectural knowledge, there is a depth of information added to the authors own observations. As a woman traveller she benefits from visiting places male travellers are not allowed, and is welcomed into the households of the people they visit perhaps more, adding to the stories told. She misses out on little with her guide who does a pretty good job on chaperoning her out of trouble where required.
Definitely worth a read - the cover alone was enough to inspire me to buy it - and there was enough familiarity with the two weeks I spent in Iran back in the mid 90's - a long time before this was written!
It is an easy read - and isn't overly long at 265 pages, but it covers most of Iran, and gets the mix right - not too much on any one topic, but not so short that we are rushed through a highlights reel of Persian-Must-Sees.
With her Iranian friend and guide Reza, and Reza B their driver, they spend around a month in a circuit of Iran visiting some of the 999 caravanserai forming the many threads of the Silk Road or Silk Route.
As Reza is a wealth of historical, religious, cultural and architectural knowledge, there is a depth of information added to the authors own observations. As a woman traveller she benefits from visiting places male travellers are not allowed, and is welcomed into the households of the people they visit perhaps more, adding to the stories told. She misses out on little with her guide who does a pretty good job on chaperoning her out of trouble where required.
Definitely worth a read - the cover alone was enough to inspire me to buy it - and there was enough familiarity with the two weeks I spent in Iran back in the mid 90's - a long time before this was written!
April 9, 2015
Jill Worrall provides the reader with a tour of several of the caravanserai on the trade routes in Iran. As someone who knew little about the caranserai or the country of Iran, itself, I found the book to be a window into a culture and land of ancient history and modern realities. Worrall depicts a smorgasbord of experiences which enables the reader to explore history, architecture, cuisine, culture, and tea rooms throughout the region. Most importantly, she depicts individuals and places that encourage the reader to think beyond the normal depictions that they may encounter in the local media and to engage with a people and place as ancient as the Zoriastorians and as modern as the guide Reza Mirkhalaf, who has recently received his Master's from the University.
Worrall is able to provide insights in a fun and engaging manner. This creates an atmosphere in which the reader can learn about the culture and everyday life of Iran without politcal overtones.
Worrall is able to provide insights in a fun and engaging manner. This creates an atmosphere in which the reader can learn about the culture and everyday life of Iran without politcal overtones.
February 7, 2025
This book recounts the travels by the NZ author and tour guide around Iran accompanied by Reza, her Iranian friend and fellow tour guide. Each chapter opens with a quote from an Iranian poet, including the famous Sufi poet Rumi. The travellers itinerary takes them along the routes of the Silk Road caravans, stopping at many caravanserai, some in ruins, some used as stables and shelter and some beautifully restored as boutique hotels and tourist attractions. The book has an essential map which traces their journey through place names both familiar and unknown.
Some of the writing is beautifully lyrical as when she describes the moment at the end of prayer: “the last words a collective sigh among thousands that hangs in the air, wrapping itself around the drones of turquoise blue and weaving among the gilded minarets that glint like lightnings flashes in the midday sun.” However sometimes it becomes repetitive as when she visits yet another tea house for the obligatory tea and optional ‘qalian’ (hookah).
I learnt a lot about Iran, albeit in a fragmented way, as every visit to a mosque or historic site provided an opportunity for Reza to explain its history and how it fits into Iran’s (Persia) long history. Unless it immediately impinged on their travels there is little discussion of the west’s perceptions of Iran as a threat. The strength of the book is in the interactions with the friendly local people who embody what she calls the ‘Persian conundrum’: The drowning of the senses in architectural splendour, haunting music and heady perfume is one wing of the nightingale. On the other wing is the masking of the chador, emotions kept behind closed doors and the pressure to conform.
Some of the writing is beautifully lyrical as when she describes the moment at the end of prayer: “the last words a collective sigh among thousands that hangs in the air, wrapping itself around the drones of turquoise blue and weaving among the gilded minarets that glint like lightnings flashes in the midday sun.” However sometimes it becomes repetitive as when she visits yet another tea house for the obligatory tea and optional ‘qalian’ (hookah).
I learnt a lot about Iran, albeit in a fragmented way, as every visit to a mosque or historic site provided an opportunity for Reza to explain its history and how it fits into Iran’s (Persia) long history. Unless it immediately impinged on their travels there is little discussion of the west’s perceptions of Iran as a threat. The strength of the book is in the interactions with the friendly local people who embody what she calls the ‘Persian conundrum’: The drowning of the senses in architectural splendour, haunting music and heady perfume is one wing of the nightingale. On the other wing is the masking of the chador, emotions kept behind closed doors and the pressure to conform.
December 23, 2025
I've had an interest in Iran ever since an old coworker went there years ago and told me of his travels. He said they were the nicest people and the architecture was incredible. This lines up with Jill's assessment as she, along with 2 Iranian friends, travel 8000km across the middle eastern landscape that is Iran.
She's a Kiwi and that comes through in her writing - very laid back and chill about most things. What you learn is that Iran, while being under some strict Islamic laws, is full of kindness and contains a plethora of folks who are just like you and me. I don't agree with the laws myself but I found it enlightening reading about what life was like for a traveller going though. It struck me as a real clash between Western society - pizza bars and the like - with Persian history and culture. It's a fascinating read that talks to the history of Iran, the silk road, the different leaders and how things were and are still done. It's more proof to me that while we live under different ideologies and religions and societal structures, we're still 99% the same. We all have hopes and dreams and appreciate connection and that when we push aside the things we've been told, we ultimately approach things with curiosity and kindness. Well, some of us do.
She's a Kiwi and that comes through in her writing - very laid back and chill about most things. What you learn is that Iran, while being under some strict Islamic laws, is full of kindness and contains a plethora of folks who are just like you and me. I don't agree with the laws myself but I found it enlightening reading about what life was like for a traveller going though. It struck me as a real clash between Western society - pizza bars and the like - with Persian history and culture. It's a fascinating read that talks to the history of Iran, the silk road, the different leaders and how things were and are still done. It's more proof to me that while we live under different ideologies and religions and societal structures, we're still 99% the same. We all have hopes and dreams and appreciate connection and that when we push aside the things we've been told, we ultimately approach things with curiosity and kindness. Well, some of us do.
November 29, 2017
Made me add Iran to my future travel list! Sometimes I found it got bogged down in simply recounting what they did where (common in travel writing and something I try hard to avoid in my own travel diary - write about how you feel!) but certainly very interesting and I’m keen to go there myself now. I would be very interested to read Reza’s account of the trip as the insider’s view is (dare I say) perhaps a little more valuable.
November 18, 2023
I had never thought about traveling to Iran, or even reading about it. After finishing this book, I wish I could book a flight tomorrow. Worrall’s travel memoir is a rich description of a country that no one dares to describe. Be prepared to laugh and cry with her as she travels among stunning scenarios, curious and welcoming people, and — more importantly — heartwarming and passionate travel buddies.
April 22, 2018
⭐️⭐️⭐️ A strong 3 stars. At times it was a little too heavy on the descriptions for me and I would have enjoyed more stories of the places Worrall visited. All the stories involving Reza and Reza B (Worralls two travel companions) were wonderful and that human touch is what really brought Iran to life for me. Now, how do I get to see this magnificent country myself?
July 28, 2021
Certainly brought some historically interesting constructions and customs to our attention. A travelogue to promote her travel services? Pique interest on visiting Iran? Told with a Kiwi perspective & voice. Things seemed to move faster towards the end & at times would have been good to have a different selection of pictures in the book so we could see what she is describing.
March 29, 2018
I was looking forward to reading this because of the subject matter, but it underwhelmed in the end. I do think that it possibly would be more interesting to someone who has already been to Iran and is able to fill in the gaps in description with their own experiences.
June 20, 2021
Not the most inpiring read
January 10, 2022
A fabulous book to read. A NZ writer visits Iran. It does away with any preconceptions. And certainly enhanced by the fact I was visiting Iran when I read it.
July 4, 2016
Jill's enthusiasm for Iran, its people, its culture and history is obvious. On almost every page her commentary resonated with me; I share her enthusiasm.
Before I went to Iran, most of my friends told me to be very careful. But a few said I'd love it. The latter were right. Iran is no more dangerous than any other place I've visited and safer than some. The biggest danger comes from traffic, which has its own very different rules. But find a local, stick close to them as the cross the street and you'll be right.
Jill's descriptions of some of the places I'd visited rang very true. The apparent lack of blue in Tabriz's Blue Mosque, for example. But once inside, I was enthralled by the beauty.
And rarely have I seen more powerful sculpture than in the basement of the nearby Azerbaijan Museum. Jill is on the right track when she recommends an age limit for admission!
Like her mate Reza, I don't know what goes on in the women's side of the public baths. But her description of being the focus of attention - a blonde in a bathhouse - as she changed her clothing struck a chord. The blondes in my tour group were all popular with the locals. Schoolgirls, in particular, would mob the women, snapping selfies and trying out their English.
Jill's take on modern Iran is an excellent introduction to this beautiful land. Read it.
Before I went to Iran, most of my friends told me to be very careful. But a few said I'd love it. The latter were right. Iran is no more dangerous than any other place I've visited and safer than some. The biggest danger comes from traffic, which has its own very different rules. But find a local, stick close to them as the cross the street and you'll be right.
Jill's descriptions of some of the places I'd visited rang very true. The apparent lack of blue in Tabriz's Blue Mosque, for example. But once inside, I was enthralled by the beauty.
And rarely have I seen more powerful sculpture than in the basement of the nearby Azerbaijan Museum. Jill is on the right track when she recommends an age limit for admission!
Like her mate Reza, I don't know what goes on in the women's side of the public baths. But her description of being the focus of attention - a blonde in a bathhouse - as she changed her clothing struck a chord. The blondes in my tour group were all popular with the locals. Schoolgirls, in particular, would mob the women, snapping selfies and trying out their English.
Jill's take on modern Iran is an excellent introduction to this beautiful land. Read it.
December 16, 2015
Any work that calls itself a travel book should make you want to visit the region it describes, but this little book just makes me want to travel the caravan routes and visit every one of the ancient buildings that are described.
I know that modern day Iran is probably a dangerous place to venture, but this book makes me long for the idea.
Each night as the camel trains stopped for the evening they found refuge in an amazing building, some many centuries old. Many survive today in a variety of states, from damaged ruin right the way through to luxury five star hotel. Each makes use of almost hundred of rooms where camel owners, drivers and their animals would have fond shelter.
Jill Worrall has woven a fascinating narrative around these sites.
Now I just want to visit them.
I know that modern day Iran is probably a dangerous place to venture, but this book makes me long for the idea.
Each night as the camel trains stopped for the evening they found refuge in an amazing building, some many centuries old. Many survive today in a variety of states, from damaged ruin right the way through to luxury five star hotel. Each makes use of almost hundred of rooms where camel owners, drivers and their animals would have fond shelter.
Jill Worrall has woven a fascinating narrative around these sites.
Now I just want to visit them.
November 25, 2013
This was a fascinating read. I have long been interested in Iran and the authors descriptive prose made me feel like I was there. She provides a window to a world not often covered in Western society. Highly recommended to anyone with an interest in Iran or travel off the beaten path.
April 9, 2012
It just didn't grab me. Dry. A pity because I was interested in the topic. It's the account of a Western travel writer (Worrall) travelling through Iran with an Iranian man as her guide.
August 18, 2012
For anyone who has visited Iran or would like to visit then this is a book you will enjoy reading.
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April 19, 2017Oh to be as brave as this NZ woman in finding a guide and a driver then following the caravanserais of the ancient Silk Routes across Persia. The country I would most like to visit - wind towers to cool houses, a Water Museum, wonderful gardens that have influenced gardens around the world, and the food, the wonderful glorious food.
Displaying 1 - 19 of 19 reviews