Breakfast at the Exit Cafe: Travels Through America

by Wayne Grady, Merilyn Simonds

What begins as a road trip through America soon becomes a journey of discovery into themselves and into the heart of the next-door neighbour they thought they knew. For Wayne Grady, the thrill of landscape and history is tempered by memories of racism and his own family roots. Merilyn Simonds, her ear tuned for the offbeat, finds curious echoes of the ex-pat promised land she grew up with. Together they travel against the tide of American history, following in the literary tire tracks of John Steinbeck, William Least Heat Moon, and Francis Trollope.Grady and Simonds experience the splendors of the Mojave Desert, the Grand Canyon, the Mississippi River, and the bayou's of Louisiana and the Outer Banks and contemplate the impact of geography on culture and of culture on landscape. They observe America from the outside, yet feel strangely at home.Part travelogue, part exploration, part mid-winter love story told with wit and acuity by one of Canada's most engaging literary couples, Breakfast at the Exit Cafe is a journey into the reality behind the cultural myth that is America.

Genres: Nonfiction, Travel, Canada, Memoir, Unfinished

256 pages, Kindle Edition

First published September 3, 2010

About the author

Wayne Grady is the award-winning author of Emancipation Day, a novel of denial and identity. He has also written such works of science and nature as The Bone Museum, Bringing Back the Dodo, The Quiet Limit of the World, and The Great Lakes, which won a National Outdoor Book Award in the U.S. With his wife, novelist Merilyn Simonds, he co-authored Breakfast at the Exit Café: Travels Through America. And with David Suzuki he co-wrote the international bestseller Tree: A Life Story.

He has also translated fourteen works of fiction from the French, by such authors as Antonine Maillet, Yves Beauchemin, and Danny Laferrière. In 1989, he won the Governor General’s Award for his translation of Maillet’s On the Eighth Day. His most recent translation is of Louis Hamelin’s October 1970, published by House of Anansi Press in 2013.

Grady teaches creative writing in the optional-residency MFA program at the University of British Columbia. He and Merilyn Simonds live in the country north of Kingston, Ontario.

Reviews

[VWrulesChick · Rating 3 out of 5]

A travel story taken by Canadian husband and wife writers, each with their own running commentary of their travels and experiences where they start in Vancouver BC, head south along the West Coast and then east into mountains, and then the desert and further south into Texas. Trapsing into the South and slowly winding back North to Canada over a two month period with their little Echo. Curiosity is interesting idea dealt with the end of how we differ in the what we (Canadians) deem the meaning to be and how Americans would believe it to mean. Loved the dualing dialogues.

[Sally · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you're planning a road trip in the States this is a great read. If you're not planning to go there anytime soon, this is a great substitute for a road trip. All the background info, history, insights and observations without the discomfort. If you're American and voted for George W, this isprobably not for you.

[Joanne · Rating 4 out of 5]

I liked this informative unusual book. The couple was a bit twee at times with their duck pate' and special red plates, but likable and kind also. My problem was with Merilyn comparing her husband's background to Obama's. No one would look at her husband and think black, and no one would look at Obama and think white.
I learned some things about this country from these thoughtful Canadians.

[Karen Smith]

Anybook that mentions One Square Inch of Silence in my opinion has to be a good book!Likewise with thoughts of Rachel Carson, Edward Abbey, the Grand Canyon, The Redwoods...although great travels it does seem like many miles of pavement with a rushed timeline.

[Yuliya · Rating 3 out of 5]

A Canadian couple, who are both writers, take a long road trip through the US to get from Vancouver to their home in Ontario. They were looking to avoid driving across Canada in winter, but, ironically, encountered snowstorms, icy roads, and other weather-related calamities on their trip through the southern US. I found the actual account of their trip to be quite boring – they drive through an assortment of practically dead towns, having made a conscious effort to avoid big cities. I wouldn't want to make the same trip as driving through neglected towns in the dead of winter sounds really depressing. Also, both authors occasionally use lofty language and are overly melodramatic, especially Wayne with his newly discovered African American roots. However, the book is peppered with interesting literary and historical trivia, mostly US-related, but some Canadian, that livens it up considerably. For example, I was shocked to find out that the first meaning of the word "curious" in American dictionaries is "nosy", "a desire to know what is not properly one's concern". Just like the author Wayne Grady, I've always thought of curiosity as a positive trait, a desire for learning. Or this: "...the image America projects to the outside world: its overweening sense of its own rightness, its ability to proceed as though everything were on the table, its refusal to learn from its own history..." The book has a lot of facts about slavery, civil rights movement, and American history and culture, that helped me understand what America is and isn't and how it compares to Canada a little better.

[Kevin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Breakfast at the Exit Cafe is a spontaneous peek into the active minds of two curious Canadian writers as they trace a smile through the mass of contiguous America. Both Wayne Grady and Merilyn Simonds are naturalists, mythologists, historians, and foodies. They imbue their intertwining passages with advice, humility, and joyful little jabs at each other. It’s a rhythmic exercise reading back and forth between Wayne’s and Merilyn’s parts – you will recognize a conflicting, yet wholly harmonious beat as you join them in the backseat of their Toyota Echo. That beat also fuels this weeks-long drive (and the relationship we get a glimpse of) in such a way that it turns a simple road trip into a book-worthy adventure. And book-worthy, it is. And adventure, it definitely is.

[Doriana Bisegna · Rating 3 out of 5]

I thoroughly enjoyed this travelogue written by two well respected Canadian writers. I very much enjoyed their tidbits of info about the people, places and situations that they came across during their travels in the U.S. of A. This was pre-Obama U.S. of A, therefore it was a different political climate than the one of today. I enjoyed the way the chapters were divided into alternating voices: W for Wayne and M for Marilyn. Well written but most importantly they were not shy to express their opinions of the people, the places and their view of the history of the U.S. concerning slavery, race relations or lack thereof ect.

[Kathy · Rating 5 out of 5]

I was expecting this book to be a "typical" road trip story - a husband and wife cruise throughout the US for two months and describe their adventures. But this couple is Canadian and brought a new perspective to the tale, viewing the Pacific Northwest, the western desert states, the unique amalgam that is Texas, the Deep South and on up the eastern seaboard through a Canadian lens. Wayne & Merilyn encountered both positive and negative aspects of America and Americans and I found their ability to be honest about their experiences refreshing. In a very nice Canadian way, of course :)

[Wendy · Rating 4 out of 5]

A pair of married writers decide to drive across the US in order to avoid a Canadian winter. The resulting book, written from the perspective of each spouse in turn, is an examination of a marriage and of the relationship between Canada and the US (in 2006/07).

[Rebecca · Rating 2 out of 5]

Nice title and it was probably a great adventure but there was so much rambling that I lost sight of the scenery.

[Joanne · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5....a few profound insights, but not enough.

[Nancy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellently written travel book by two Canadian writers.

[Jackie · Rating 2 out of 5]

What a strange, strange book. This read to me as "we took a poorly planned road trip, then decided to apply for a grant to write a book about it". They do little worth writing about, miss out on almost everything they hoped to see, and dwell on tiny experiences, magnifying them beyond what they signify. At least 50% of the book is extensive quotations or summaries of observations of the U.S. from better, more perceptive writers. (This was the meat of the book and what made it worth reading - they do, at least, provide a lot of interesting history and context to the places they go). They're also just terrible travelers - every decision they made infuriated me. The authors' description of their marital foibles was supposed to come off as endearing and eccentric, I think, but just read as annoying to me.

Also just a pet peeve of mine, when people say that history in North America moved from east to west, or that the east has more history than the west, which they do a few times in this book. Only true if you don't consider Indigenous peoples history to be part of history. The book in general left kind of a strange taste in my mouth in its dealings with race overall.

[Marianna · Rating 4 out of 5]

Other than a few factual errors for the Texas portion of this book (I can't speak to the validity of the facts for the other regions covered) I found this an entertaining read. I was a little put off by the oversimplification of the treatment of race relations in the south. To read Mr. Grady you would believe that a trip to Selma, Alabama or Jacksonville, Mississippi would have you returning to the 1950's. Certainly racism still exists in this region, but not to the extent implied in this reading. The same holds true for Albany, Texas! I couldn't find any information regarding the history behind the sign on the door (which does sound quite offensive) of the Lynch Line bookstore. However, the name originated with the name of the building it is located in, named sometime in the 1800's after the man who founded the town of Albany.

And for the record there is not an Army base in Waco, Texas. The base is in Fort Hood, some 46 miles south of Waco.

[Kathryne Camp evans · Rating 1 out of 5]

I quickly grew to dislike these 2 Canadians, who crossed the border with a fat chunk of disdain for America and the people who live here, and proceeded to drive across the country with no plan other than to avoid being with other people at all costs. You know what you find when you go out of your way to avoid large centers of population? You find the rest of the population, who is also trying to avoid people. That portion of the population is often cranky and unfriendly. 75% of this book seems to be taken from a Google search and presented as "conversation". The rest is mostly about how unpleasant Americans are. Although they do meet a fair number of helpful people along the way, those encounters aren't treated to nearly the rumination or comparison to Canada as the rest are. I wanted to like this book as an "outsider's" view of America, but they were so determined to not enjoy themselves or their surroundings, I just couldn't.

[Christina · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an interesting look at America in the early 21st century. The husband and wife Canadian authors leave British Columbia in mid-December 2006 and drive down the west coast, across the American southwest and the south, then up the east coast of America to arrive home in eastern Ontario two months later. They encounter quite a bit of bad weather and (of course) some quirky characters and places. I enjoyed their commentary on the state of America at that particular point in time. As the book progresses, you learn more about how their views have been shaped by their individual backgrounds and histories. I hope the authors will return and visit the Midwest and the central part of America. I enjoyed the rambling nature of their trip. They had a rough plan, but they weren't overly organized, so they had opportunities to veer off-course.

[Richard Thompson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wayne Grady (a writer whose work I was familiar with) and his wife, Merilyn Simonds (a writer whose work I will make a note to investigate) decide to make a trip in late December of 2006, from Vancouver where Merilyn has been writer-in-residence at UBC, down through the States and back to their home in southeastern Ontario.

Each of the writers (taking turn and turn about along the route) has a unique voice, but both write well and engagingly.

They have chosen to cross the continent across the south, partly with the idea of avoiding winter roads and winter storms across the Canadian prairies, but as it turns out, southern Canada is balmy and the two travelers find themselves snowbound in New Mexico and chased by ice storms along the east coast.

Another travel book that makes me wonder about the wisdom of leaving home at all. But the stories are interesting.

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

Husband and wife leave Vancouver just before Christmas in a small car and go home to eastern Ontario " the long way", via California and the US. Both are writers. They are empty-nesters too. They take turns narrating their journey. Their affection for each other as a long- married couple shines through in their accounts of the others' sayings and reactions to life and events on the road.

The problem is that they took their notes, got a Canada Council grant and retired to a writers' workshop to write up the book. The result is a lot if research material not very well integrated into the story about the places they went. Also far too many literary quotations.

There's the kernel of a great book here, if only they had put in less research andore introspection as a couple.

[Henry · Rating 4 out of 5]

Unusual in that this on the road book talks in two voices--a married couple of well-known Canadian writers traveling by less-traveled routes from Vancouver down to California and then west till they reach the southeastern coast, then north till they reach Canada.

They talk about how the US differs from Canada, in the attitudes of the people. It is hard not to
empathize with them, when either of them has disparaging things to say about the country, having lived in the US and now in Canada for umpteen years. They find a lot of good aspects to balance their "griefs". It is a good account of how a marriage hangs together as well.

I recommend this book, if only as a contrast to all the road books written by people traveling
on their own.

[Sandra Rae · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is an interesting way to write a "road trip" book. The trip through the Southern U.S. with it's historical references and comparisons, along with the double voice, makes an interesting book. I have been to Vicksburg. The rows upon rows of graves had a big impact on me. All those young people who never got to live their lives. They did not go to Memphis, but a trip to the Civil Rights Museum there was the most important stop on a trip through the U.S. in better weather I might add. As a white Canadian who only experienced the civil rights movement from a distance, this up close personal encounter was an interesting read

[Carol Harrison]

An interesting journey around the U.S., especially since it is written by 2 Canadians so has that perspective. I also liked the way they divided up their writing--when it was Wayne's turn, the first paragraph started with "W" and when it was Merilyn's, it was an "M". Maybe a bit too much didactic information about American history in places, but descriptions of people and places were vivid and there was humour too. The writers also were not afraid to describe their own human weaknesses which made the reader have a sense of being on the journey with them, to some extent.

[Kathleen McRae · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book written by Wayne Grady and Merilyn Simonds.wayne and marilyn are a married couple from Canada who travel for two months in the USA. They travel down the pacific coast thru Washington and Oregon crossing the Great Desert to the south and back up thru the Shenandoah valley to return to their home in Ontario.Wayne and Merilyn took turns writing and it was almost seamless.There was a lot of history covered as they traveled and bird watching and today observations of our landscape then and now.Thoroughly enjoyable book

[Kasadarko · Rating 3 out of 5]

I may not agree with Merilyn’s final perspective on Americans, defining what American curiosity is, but still a fantastic read. Through factoids, observations, cultural and historical lessons we experience their road trip across America. I loved that I could put the book down and Google any of their stays and historical facts, delving deeper than the book’s written word. Perhaps a bit heavy on American stereotypes, but polite and even-toned about it. A delightful read with ample rhetoric on homefries and bookstores. The perfect read for an offseason traveller.

[EJ · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really liked this book. It is one of the books that leads you to so many others. I had to keep a pen and notebook handy to write down all the books they reference. John Steinbeck is high on the list. Travels with Charlie (never read), Grapes of Wrath (read in highschool which means not much now!).

[Elisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really liked the book and the way both authors shared their Canadian viewpoints. I was however frustrated at the way the book ended. I can understand that they probably were tired from their long Roadtrip....but the ending did not match the rest of the story. It seemed like they were in a hurry and the story just ended!

[Beth · Rating 3 out of 5]

A really interesting and informative book written by a married couple, both writers, as they travel from Vancouver, across the US, back to their home in Ontario. I loved reading about places that I have visited, and really enjoyed the interesting history bits thrown in along the way.

[Alan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Entertaining writing, but I wouldn't take travel advise from anyone showing up at El Tovar at the Grand Canyon on Christmas day without a reservation. Walking in the door "hoping" there's a cancellation on one the busiest days of the year is simply foolish.

[Michael Seeds · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is an illuminating book because it is authored by two Canadians driving the long way home through the United States. It is interesting to see the US through foreign eyes that are not too foreign.

[Patricia · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very thought provoking travel book. I enjoyed it immensely. It is written in turn by a husband and wife team.

[Daphne · Rating 5 out of 5]

It was a really interesting travelogue without being a travelogue!