"I had never been particularly good at anything except catering to my own comfort and safety," begins Graham Mackintosh with cheerful frankness in this engaging, suspenseful, and finally stirring travel adventure. An Englishman, Mackintosh fell in love with Baja California on a visit and, despite a glaring shortage of both experience and money, determined to walk its entire coast. Into a Desert Place is his account of how he equipped himself, what he saw and learned, and how he survived on this harsh and beautiful journey. The book was first published in England and then by Mackintosh himself in the United States; this is its first appearance in paperback.
What a great read and what a great writer. I loved this book like I loved Kon Tiki. Here are a couple of his comments:
“I tried walking the very edge of the swamp with my panicky sinking burro. Strange slurps and cracks emanated from the mangrove. Ugly twisted roots clung to the mud like evil talons with their prey. Fiercely spined creeping devils reached for us from the overgrown desert. Repellent devouring mosquitoes filled the dank air. Bon’s (the donkey) coat was black and alive. My hands were gory red from swatting our torturers.”
And this:
“If ever I get to heaven, I pray its sky is blue, its slopes are covered with cardon and cirio, the scorpions are dancing and whirling, and from behind the largest cactus of all will emerge a sad-faced black burro ready to carry my pack for all eternity.”
These two comments came from the last chapters of the book when he finally got a donkey to carry his pack. And I must say this; the donkey was a great addition since I love animal stories as well. But the entire book was a great adventure that I would have loved to have gone on, except for my age and fears. He had “fears” but he didn’t allow them to stop him.
He traveled 3,000 plus miles in Baja, and this was not on roads but along the coast and over cliffs. The dangers were great, and even one friend, who wanted to travel with him, changed his mind and went home when he realized he wasn't ready to die.
He also ran into rattlesnakes on several occasions, and these harrowing experiences, as well as those with scorpions, were not something I would have been able to handle. He often ran out of water and went through 7 pairs of shoes. But he met up with many wonderful and helpful Mexicans and vacationing Americans.
In his next book he travels with a burro in Journey with a Baja Burro. This, too, should be an exciting read.
rather incredible story of fellow (from uk, not an adventurer or hiker, not rich, not knowledgeable really about any sort of roughing it) walking all of the baja peninsula, more or less unassisted, except for the few people who live there. terribly dangerous, terribly difficult, this maddog englishman perseveres in some of the harshest, inaccessible landscape.
Some of the reviewers who loved the book were nevertheless a bit skeptical if Graham Mackintosh actually walked around the coast of Baja California. Well, I'm not a bit skeptical! Reading his adventure is like walking beside him every step of the way. A great read to take along on your next beach vacation ... to Baja, of course!
I think that whether or not Graham hiked all what he said he did kind of misses the point. He did enough of the hike that any Baja experienced person would give him kudos for his vision and the perseverance to stick to the task. The book is filled with interesting characters and adventures that make the reading a fun experience. That being said, I have a few observations about the style in which he did the trek.
For me, the book is not really about Graham Mackintosh at all. He basically had no plan for being self sufficient from beginning to end. His primary modus operandi was to rely on the generosity of Mexicans who populated the fish camps along the Baja coast. He casually talks about getting water from these people, who had to go to great lengths to get water for themselves. By the third or fourth or twentieth time that they refused to accept money for food or water, you would think that he might get a funny feeling in the pit of his stomach. These are people that live on a fine line for their own survival and work very hard for what they have.
I had a vacation place below Rosarito for about 15 years and gave it up because of the problems associated with high population density in the northern section of Baja. More recently, my wife and I have developed a place in Baja Sur. I have nothing but respect for the generosity and kindness of the Mexican people we have met, once you get away from the northern sector of the state. Graham wrote of his trip in the early 80's, but the people haven't changed that much.
One of my favorite travel books, both to read and to recommend to library users. Have spent some time in Baja. LaPaz library intrigued me. Would like to have journeyed with Graham in real time and place, too.
Fantastic book! I loved Mackintosh's wit, persistence, and deep love of the solitude and marvels of Baja California. I greatly enjoyed the many lessons he shares along the way, his connection to the desert and beach landscape, and the people he encounters along the way. He artfully weaves a tale of personal growth on so many levels. Unlike so many outsiders to Mexico that look through their ethnocentric lens, Mackintosh is refreshingly sensitive and open-minded--ever the student and seeing himself as the guest. I loved the last several chapters and his growing admiration and love for Bon, his donkey. I cannot wait to dive into his second book, Bajo Burro!
This is my third read of the book over the many years that I have owned it. I picked it up at used book store on a whim and I have loved it ever since. I won't go into a lot of details as I am sure most of you have read the book that are reading this review but I do love the way he writes. I am a visual person and I can picture what he is trying to describe. He's a great director of the theater of the mind.
I couldn't stop thinking about this book. There is so much to inspire the mind here to what is possible. This whole journey should have been impossible, but the human spirit can exceed its limits. I'll never walk the Baja peninsula, but reading this causes me to wonder what I might do that I haven't because it seemed crazy or beyond reach.
In walking around the entire coast of Baja California, Mackintosh makes up for his lack of experience and preparation with unbridled optimism, fervor, stubbornness --- and a complete lack of shame. His adventure is less an exercise in self-sufficiency than a portrait of the generosity of the people of Baja who unfailingly treat him like long lost family despite their own subsistence conditions. The author's cheery acceptance of their charity, along with his often colonial impressions of them, make this an uncomfortable read.
And yet the magic of Mackintosh's journey is precisely his enthusiasm for his unique style of travel and the colorful characters and situations he encounters by placing his journey (and often his life) in the hands of complete strangers. Into a Desert Place is an entertaining, quirky, and indelible read.
I met Graham in San Diego just before my journey through Baja California, from the border down to Land's End. He gave a talk the night before we departed and it was fascinating. After my trip, I read the book and recognized many of the places we visited. His descriptions are spot on. I think he is a great writer and while I would not want to participate in a journey like his, I was glad to experience it vicariously through reading the book. I'm not sure if the average person would really appreciate this book, but I recommend it for anyone going to Baja!
I really loved this book. At least until towards the end. When Bonny came into the picture. He wrote about several instances where he hit or beat Bonny. I could understand his frustration but in my mind you never abuse an animal. I did finish the book but that ruined it for me. Maybe it's just me. I did like the descriptions of his adventures and the scenery. So it's you can overlook his treatment of Bonny, then you'd love this book.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
4 3/4 stars. I really enjoyed this book! A 30 year old Irish/Scottish instructor to unemployed youth decides to walk around the entire Baja Peninsula. Well written, I was captivated by his harrowing, suspenseful, entertaining journey. An excellent read and a comment on getting outside and spending some time alone.
What a tale! This guy came so close to dying over and over throughout this book. It’s certainly one of the most grueling adventures I’ve read about. I learned a good amount about Baja too. I detracted a star because the writing could be better.
Interesting to read about a trek through a desolate landscape. An extremely heavy pack (okay, it was the 80s, but, a tea kettle?), a lot of alcohol consumed and carried, and missteps that could have ended the trip, but his connections with those he met along the way made it worth reading.
Well worth the read. Amazing adventure. I would like to meet Mr. Graham Mackintosh someday, and swap tales about traversing North America's great deserts.
Another of the class of books where you just wonder how the author survived. The first 100 miles of the walk take up almost half the book and the last thousand miles a single chapter. . .
It seems that a totally unprepared tourist decides on an adventure he as no way of completing without the generosity of the impoverished locals he encounters.
It's been ten years since I first read this book. I remember loving the adventure side of the book the first time and I relived that adventure again, which was great. However, as an older amateur adventurer now, his moochiness really, just really bugged me through the book. He could not hav one this trip without taking a lot of resources from the people along the peninsula. I don't like that and I couldn't feel comfortable about constantly being a taker.
Being a huge fan of Baja, California I enjoyed reading MacKintosh's story on how he came to want to hike the perimeter of Baja and how he eventually did it. The fact that he got people to pay for almost his entire two year journey is testament to his tenaciousness and spirit of adventure.
The story is beyond interesting. He goes into detail about his feelings and the hardships involved in hiking in such a desolate area. He did this two year hike in 1986 and continues to travel and write about his Baja experiences.
Whether an accurate depiction or not, Macintosh takes us on a plodding adventure in an inhospitable land. I read it in preparation for a future, less demanding, trip to the Baja and enjoyed his story, in spite of his masculine bravado and curious tales. I wonder what still exists of Macintosh's Baja and if I can find some semblance of adventure there.
Decent read. Book moves a bit slow at times. The history of Baja should have been woven in as though he was walking in the steps of the giants, rather than relegating it to chapters and feeling as a book report on giants. The moments when he does this integration, the book shines.
Not sure why I loved this book but I do. I read it at least three times now. There is something that just draws me to that land, my southern neighbor. Mystical, magical Mexico! ¡Viva la Mexico!
Great story. Book is a bit disorganized (Baja history doesn't integrate well with the author's personal journey). Interesting glimpse into an unfamiliar place.