The utterly compelling and inspirational account of how two very different writers tackle their demons walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, the legendary medieval pilgrimage across Spain
Elizabeth Best had always wanted to go on a pilgrimage. Colin Bowles had never given it a moment's thought. But by a twist of fate the two barely acquainted writers seize the day and drop everything to retrace one of the oldest pilgrimage routes in the Western world, through the heart of Spain to Santiago de Compostela. It was meant to be a stroll in the sun, but they're under-prepared and carrying way too much baggage, in every sense. Bound by a promise and fueled by local vino, what starts out as a physical challenge—500 miles, give or take—quickly becomes an epic tale of tragedy, triumph, and fierce loyalty as a scenic walk through mystic lands gives rise to far greater personal journeys. Set amidst the olive groves, rolling hills, castles, and cathedrals of northern Spain and featuring a supporting cast of eccentrics—from mad monks to angry nuns, Lycra-clad cyclists, international soul seekers, and boisterous boy scouts, this is an inspiring, moving, and blackly funny account of two hapless pilgrims on an extraordinary journey to the end of the earth and beyond.
Rounding down to a 3.0 from a 3.5. Some thoughts: -Great format - i.e. two different authors recounting their respective experiences of their Camino walk, with two quite different voices (a younger woman and an older man, who might not normally do a pilgrimage together). -I am sure lots of pilgrims have interesting and compelling stories about their experiences, but it does take some talent to write it up, and Best and Bowles did well. -I think the story could have done with an epilogue - what happened to the friendship after the Camino? For what seemed to be a momentous and life-changing experience to have together, what came of it?
Several times in the course of reading about this Camino, and much like its protagonists, my earnest desire to persevere debated with a temptation to drop out. What chafed my heels was the nagging sense that despite endless trudging, this trio -- reader and authors -- wasn't getting anywhere. Chapter after chapter, Ms. Best seemed to notice all over again her terrible (and credibility spraining) injuries, laughed them off, then hobbled along on a leg that, today, she must certainly no longer possess. And on stage after stage of the trek, Mr. Bowles got drunk, fought with Ms. Best, heaped scatalogical scorn on the Camino and all of Spain, and worried that he was going too far in words and actions even as he strained to go too far.
Finally, several chapters and days from Santiago, I stepped to the side of the trail. I breathed a sigh of surrender and relief as Liz and Col slowly receded along their gangrenous, bickering, invective-laced, eternally-recurring path.
I don't know if they reached Santiago or Finesterre. I don't know how their journey changed them. At least I think I know why Mr. Bowles was there to begin with, if not what was Ms. Best's purpose. The first 200 pages of the story, for all the words, felt strangely blank. The story does not draw a very clear map and its narrative landscape is oddly barren, considering that it journeys along a Camino that is nothing if not a cathartic river of people and places.
Ms. Best's determination is highlighted endlessly and to a surreal level, but what drives her, other than stubbornness, remains unclear to me. Who is she? I was grateful for Mr. Bowles's expressive clarity about his own nature and motivation: although repetitive, he provides a powerful and stark picture of where he come from and why he is going -- why he hopes to get somewhere. But is he getting somewhere?
Considering the sameness of the prose across the first 200 pages, I'm not sure that I would have recognized a climax, catharsis, or even a geographical terminus had I endured the company of these co-authors all the way to the end of the earth.
I would have rated this book higher if it hadn't been for all the profanity -- intended, I'm sure, to give us a better sense of the personalities of the two co-authors, but completely unnecessary. I have always thought that if my first foray on the Camino couldn't be the whole thing I would do the last 100 miles. This book has changed my thinking on that. There is a heavy focus on the physical toil of all the walking on the co-authors, which explains their sense of having earned the right to enter Santiago when they're done. So when I go, (planning on doing it in 2013), I will start in the Pyrenees and walk as far as I can in the limited time I'll have. This book made me think about the Camino in a way I never have before, which I appreciate.
Although it was a "secular" pilgrimage, Colin and Eli learned so much about themselves, each other and life. I have read two books on the Camino and am fascinated by the concept of walking to St. James in the footsteps of the thousands, maybe millions, through history.
I suspect that I got rather more out of this than I might have because I had read Elizabeth Best's previous work (also memoir); I suspect also that I would have gotten more out of it had I read something similar by Bowles. That's not to say that this doesn't stand alone -- the Camino gives it, by default, enough structure to let it do so -- but it's safe to say that prior reading informed my reading here. (Worth noting, though, that both authors take what I interpret as a conscious step back from their younger selves for much of the book.)
As a pilgrimage memoir, well, a couple of thoughts. The first is that, to date, the Camino memoirs I've read can be split evenly by gender in terms of who will be more crass? In the context of this book, if ever I was in doubt of who had written a given chapter, I could just check the amount of swearing and discussion of unpleasant smells and/or bodily functions.
The other thought: both authors are aware early on that the struggle for Best will be primarily physical; for Bowles, it ends up being far more of a psychological struggle. But it's also a struggle to get that out of him. His mood gets darker and darker over the course of the book as he starts to face past traumas and comes up against his own limitations; while Best marches sternly on (sometimes against all rationality) and proves her stuff (alone, I'd probably give her sections four stars), Bowles takes much longer about it -- every time he opens the door to examine what's going on inside, he slams it again and pastes on another layer of crass humour.
I have yet to see a Camino memoir that goes significantly further in time than the pilgrimage itself (though my reading of the topic is only in, perhaps, toddlerhood), but I wonder whether Bowles needed that extra space here -- he got to Finisterre, but his journey wasn't over.
Originally read/reviewed in January 2014; notes following reread in September 2015:
Not sure why I was so determined to reread this, but doing so did absolutely nothing to improve my opinion of Bowles's sections. Just...really could not stand them. Alas.
On the plus side -- now that I've walked the Camino myself, and compared notes (so to speak) with my photographs, I know exactly where the cover photograph was taken.
It was really interesting reading two different perspectives on their experience of walking the Camino. About the time that Colin was deep in his memories/loss, Elizabeth took over and wrote from her experience to keep it more balanced. Colin's self-deprecating humor was laugh out-loud, riotous. I've read dozens of books on the Camino and this book along with Jane Christmas' book, "What the Psychic Told the Pilgrim", have been my absolute favorites. I've walked the Camino de Santiago, and I highly recommend these books to anyone thinking of making the 500 mile long trek in northern Spain. I could not put the book down!
Unexpectantly I found this book to be highly engrossing. The honesty revealed by the two authors as they progress along the Camino is very endearing and you follow their many trials and tribulations with much empathy. I have only read one other Camino-related book, Paulo Coelho's The Pilgrimage, and I find The Year We Seized the Day to be quite different, but more affecting.
A fabulous travel book. The authors wrote equally well, approaching the book with amazing openness and honesty, exposing all of their inner fears and demons that they had to deal with on the 800 km pilgrimage. The book is not all serious, both Eli and Colin have a good sense of humour which comes out in many of the chapters. I loved the style of book, with each author writing an alternate chapters, giving a view of what was happening each day from they different perspectives. Wonderful!
It certainly was compelling, though I'm not sure it would be for someone not interested in walking the Camino de Santiago. It is funny, inspiring, but the idea that it is poignant or spiritually uplifting? Umm, not so much. A little too much repeating of the story here and there, but well worth walking with these folks to get a honest picture of The Walk.
I bought this book from Amazon on a whim (and because it was a deal) because it takes place in one of my favorite countries. It wasn't the story I expected, but very interesting and thought-provoking all the same. The writing is brutally honest at times--I could have done with less swearing, but one can't have everything--and it was very moving to see these two people grow during their journey.
'When you walk, the pain, the heat, the thirst, the monotony and the loneliness take most of your focus, most of the time. But eventually, hours in, your body turns numb, your minds switches off and your feet continue to march on regardless: crunch, crunch, crunch. And it's there, somewhere in the emptiness, that the essence of all who've gone before still remains.'
Excellent book. Not really about the journey - however amazing that was as well - more about what happens when you have the time and the space to look within yourself. Sometimes its good, and sometimes not so good. Not a heavy book to read however, and has some nice bits of humour along the way
I enjoyed reading The Year We Seized The Day: A True Story of Friendship and Renewal on the Camino. This is my second book reading about the Camino de Santiago and I want to participate in the pilgrimage. The stories the authors told were shocking, emotional, and humorous.
It was ok, but not the best book I've read about the Camino. A lot of focus on blisters, injuries and physical challenges, but not all that much as far as the personal growth of the two people involved.
This travel bio has left me moved in ways that are hard to describe clearly to anyone who has not had the joy, the pain and the challenge of walking (or riding) the Camino Frances personally. So much of what I felt could be emotions relived from personal experience. Then again, this is perhaps what the best of writing achieves. Colin and Eli struggle individually and yet together in completing their epic pilgrimage across northern Spain and simultaneously the landscapes of who they are as people. Numerous observations and reflections took me back to my own journey and reminded me of some important truths that wait for us if we give ourselves the time. Eli's observation that what she appreciates most of Camino life is time to be a person again, to learn, to interact and to grow resonates as does the realisation that in time "I will miss the person I am with it."
I originally heard about this book via the Mighty Blue Podcast, where Steve and his niece have been reading a chapter or two each week. I ended up buying the book as I really wanted to know what happened next rather than waiting for the following week on the podcast. This book is hilarious in places with real laugh out loud moments. If you have walked the Camino then you will read all of this book with a smile on face as many home truths appear throughout. It is also interesting to see the dynamics and the relationship between the two main characters. They go through a mix of hell and love for each other and often walk apart. I won't add any spoilers, so please just download or pick up a copy and indulge yourself. You won't regret it!
I really enjoyed Elis chapters, she's the kind of person you really end up rooting for and it's a shame she didn't do the bulk of the writing. She was what kept me reading, that plus hoping for some kind of redemption at the end for Colin.
Unfortunately it was basically a long winded mental breakdown of a self centred boomer wandering through Spain. So if you want to read about a grown man justifying his shitty behaviour and indulging in bouts of intimidation all the while ragging on Spain this is the book for you.
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
Interesting portrayal of most of the warts in a warts-&-all description of the pilgrimage along the Camino. Good to see that Colin Bowles doesn't hold back on his description of what sort of person he is, which is quite clearly demonstrated in his semi-autobiographical books 'The Naked Husband' and its sequel 'The Naked Heart' (the start of which ties into the end of this book). [NB: Mark D'Arbanville is a pen-name of Colin Bowles, as is Colin Falconer]
Christ almighty, my feet are bleeding just reading this. Two Aussies walk the Camino de Santiago, 30+ days of self recriminations and re-evaluation that takes a physical as well as an emotional toll; I'm not sure which one was worse. Very intense but laced with a lot of distinctly Aussie humor. Go for it.
I read this while on holiday in Berri SA during a heatwave, 5 days of 40+ temps. I enjoyed the “he said she said” style of narrative. The writing from each was effortless and raw and fluid and flowed in a linear fashion from point to point in the journey. I wish there had been a follow up to the physical challenges encountered after the ending. But all in all, very satisfying.
This was a phenomenal book. I really don't get why someone wouldn't like it unless they are afraid of feelings or can't understand metaphors. Yes the pain and sickness are a part of the journey. People it's not a hiking trip, or guide book but a pilgrimage. There is a difference. Anyway this is a fantastic book worth reading unless you are the people mentioned above.
If you want a sanitized and idealistic story of the Camino, this is not the one. It’s hilarious and excruciating and from my experience, more real than what’s usually in the books. I enjoyed it and I’d recommend it.
This was one of the less appealing books about the Camino. The best about it is the cover, I believe. It's painful to read how Eli and Colin trudge on, suffering physically and mentally. There is no lightheartedness or enjoyment, just dire self-reflection and a few history lessons.
I wanted to like this book and kept reading because I kept thinking it would get better. Hiking the Camino is on my bucket list and I enjoyed learning more about the Camino. However, this book would not entice someone to want to walk the Camino.
A great and easy read! The “chapters” were short so it took no time. I loved how honest and open they were about the difficulties of the Camino. However, I wished they included the photos they took!
I bought this book at an airport out of curiosity and in the end it inspired me to walk the Camino. Given the wonderful experience I had, I couldn’t give it any less than 5 stars.