Robert Sharer and Loa P. Traxler's The Ancient Maya: Sixth Edition is a work I have been reading intermittently over the last five months. Today, I finally finished it. It can be maddeningly scholarly in places, but it is almost unimaginably complete. I remember reading the 3rd edition of this work by Sylvanus Morley many years ago: It was probably a better read, but covered only a small fraction of what is know today. For one thing, we now know how to interpret Mayan hieroglyphs, and we have discovered that the Maya of the Classical period had a history and a cast of characters. Back in Morley's day, it was thought that most hieroglyphs were merely glosses on calendar dates, instead of tales of Maya rulers and their deeds.
The book is far too heavy for me to carry to Guatemala when I go in January, but I can see myself looking up details over the weeks to come.
Sharer's book contains the histories of numerous Maya polities in Yucatan, Chiapas, Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, and El Salvador, complete with dates.
While I cannot recommend this book as light reading (it is NOT light in any sense of the word), it is a model of American archeological scholarship at its best.