The Art of Manipulating Fabric

by Colette Wolff

The possibilities for three-dimensional manipulation of fabric - gathering, pleating, tucking, shirring, and quilting woven materials - are seemingly endless. To describe them all would be to describe the entire history of sewing.

In "The Art of manipulating Fabric," Colette Wolff has set herself just this task, and she succeeds brilliantly. Working from the simplest possible form - a flat piece of cloth and a threaded needle - she categorizes all major dimensional techniques, show how they are related, and give examples of variations both traditional and modern. The result is an encyclopedia of techniques that resurface, reshape, restructure and reconstruct fabric.

More than 350 diagrams support the extensive how-tos, organized into broad general categories, then specific sub-techniques

Handsome photos galleries showcase the breathtaking possibilities in each technique and aid visual understanding by emphasizing the sculptured fabric surface with light and shadow

Textile artists and quilters, as well as garment and home decor sewers, will expand their design horizons with the almost limitless effects that can be achieved

Genres: Sewing, Fashion, Nonfiction, Crafts, Reference, Art, Fashion Design

312 pages, Paperback

First published October 1, 1996

Reviews

[Jana]

I usually don't keep fiber or art books in my public studio, but I had this one in there for reference on a previous project that involved mitering corners. I had it on the shelf sort of in a project box and heaped up with papers.

And here's the funny bit of coincidence... yesterday I had a drop-in studio visitor who was a theater costumer. Almost one of the first things out of her mouth was, "Have you heard of that book on the art of manipulating fabric."

"Why yes, it's the only book I happen to have here." And I dug it out to confirm. "This book?"

Anyway, I just thought that was an odd coincidence. Great book with detailed instructions on how to do anything you might ever think of wanting to do with fabric. Every instruction is easily adapted to your own needs, whether they be making something patterned (as clothing), something more sculptural, low-relief or even 2-D and painterly.

[Carolynn]

If you sew, and you've ever wondered what else you could do to perk up collars, cuffs, etc., or you just like interesting designs in fabric like they used to do in the '40s to make women's clothing so special, this book is for you. Ms. Wolff has spent a great deal of time showing us how to make really nice designs in fabric, and you don't have to stop there, you can wing it and find whole new design areas to work with once you have gone through the basics and beyond with this book. Every so often I take it down and flip through it just to get ideas. You can use them on clothing, accessories, soft furnishings, tablecloths, pot holders--the list is endless. You don't have to make a whole quilt of them either: just a square or a few motifs will make the whole piece special.

This is an exceptionally fine reference book for those who like to work with fabric. I heartily recommend it to those who sew.

[Erika Mulvenna]

EXCELLENT book illustrating many, many sewing and other techniques for manipulating fabric. Awesome photographs and illustrations. A MUST HAVE for any creative sewer.

[Andy]

This is an exciting book about shaping fabric using pleating, darts, folding, elevated applique, tucking, etc. It seems as though it's from another era though these techniques must be used by professionals in interior decorating and the fashion industry. I would love to see videos demonstrating some of the techniques as I am so new to this field that I cannot follow the instructions included in this book. But if I could! I have so many ideas regarding how I could incorporate these wonderful shapes into art quilts and fabric sculpture. If anyone knows of other books, or of videos, that show how to use these techniques, I would appreciate if you with contact me with that information.

[Eva]

Excellent as a reference work for couture sewing and quilting but it had limited appeal for me as a hobby seamstress primarily interested in making functional and washable garments.

[Emily]

An amazing book on how to do just about anything with fabric. I recently completed a project on smocking and tucking techniques for school and this book was a gem. The pictures are of her samples are drool inducing and the instructions are clear. Just flipping through the pages is enough to make me run to thread my hand sewing needles.

[Beth]

This book is wonderfully thorough, in terms of all the techniques is describes. However, I would have liked to read more about possible applications for the techniques, since many of them were so unusual that I could not imagine how to use them, either in clothing or home decor.

[Ev]

This is a book you'll go to again and again. Wonderful instruction for adding texture and shape to fabric.

[heidi]

Y'all.

This book is so clear, precise, and well-researched it should be taught as a class. Everything is categorized neatly and logically, and meticulously described, drawn, and photographed. Every technique is clear, and the combinations show an amazing range of creative expression. Absolutely a keeper for my library of hardcopy craft books so that I can reference it over and over again.

Read if: You ever foresee a time when you will need to distinguish between a frill and a flounce, or if you are the kind of person who has to make up cosplay solutions in a hurry. You are a fan of gorgeously weaponized autism.

Skip if: Finnicky or decorative techniques make you itch.

Also read: David Page Coffin's book on Shirtmaking

[Cindy Tan]

So many options!!!
I wasn’t surprised hat this book is one of the bestseller in terms of creative fabrics. The fabric manipulation was top knotch and dare I say... quite advanced?

The only thing is that I felt like they don’t really use a ‘step by step’ approach. The how to was very wordy and lengthy... I personally prefer the fabric manipulation by Ruth Singer. It has more pictures and a step by step approach. Of course, Singer’s fabric manipulation wasn’t advanced as what this book offers.

[Rose]

I feel like this is an excellent reference book, but more useful for decorative sewing than garment making. I may revisit it once I am more proficient in sewing, as right now I find myself unable to imagine a use for most of the techniques, fascinating as they are.

[Lorna Orkin]

I got this book at an estate sale with a bunch of other books. This one was the find! I am an artist who is starting to sew. This book opened my eyes to what can be done with fabric, and gave me so much inspiration! I’m cited to try some of these techniques! Great book!

[Freyja]

This is an excellent, thorough visual manual to a great many decorative techniques.

[Mackenzie]

Extremely detailed. Very good source material.

[Jenbes]

The best book I've come across in embellishing with fabric. It covers everything clearly and concisely. Highly recommended and I bought it for myself to use.

[John]

Highly specialized, but thorough for what it is. So if this is specifically what you're looking for, great.

[Miriam Mylin]

Excellent, great ideas, good instructions

[Lee Kinkade]

This is a systematic explication of various techniques for manipulating fabric. Straight forward descriptions and excellent diagrams and photographs of the various methods. I highly recommend it both for the home crafter and professional artists who wish to work with fabrics. Ever wonder what the difference between a ruffle and a flounce is? Ever wonder how your grandmother made those pillows that look like they are woven out of strips of fabric but are actually just carefully pleated? Ever wanted to use the correct terms to describe that skirt you liked that had those things at the hem that gave it fullness without bunching? These answers and more are included.

[Mary Franklin]

This book was very helpful to me. The instructions are clear and thorough, and the photographs are excellent. There was one explanation of a particular technique that didn't make sense to me; when I tried to follow the instructions they just didn't work; but I have a feeling the fault lies in me; not the author. She put an incredible amount of work into producing this book. I hope she is being well rewarded for her efforts!

[Ciaobella]

Such a thorough description with beautiful diagrams.... this book is useful for fiber artists, quilters and garment designers. Whether you hope to better understand the nature of woven fabric and how it moves, or if you're just gathering drapes, this is a bountiful resource.

I loved watching the things she created and the photography was very useful

[Brigette]

If you are a fiber artist, or want to explore fiber arts, but you are not an accomplished seamstress, this is the book. Even if you have lots of experience sewing, you will learn so much. The writing is clear, the illustrations are wonderful. For me, it's all about the texture, and this will teach you to build amazing textures with simple fabrics (like cheap cotton muslin).

[Raslalique]

I love this book. The writing is engaging and the instructions are clear. A lot of techniques and modifications are covered in this book. I love it so much I bought another copy to give as a gift and I plan to do it again. Sometimes when I need inspiration I just leaf through the book and admire the photos. I give this 5 solid stars.

[Alicia]

Ever since I first saw this cover and the title of this book, I have been intrigued and really wanted to experience this book. The problem is that I don't know how to sew. I've never even threaded a sewing machine. Hopefully this will soon be remedied.

[Espera]

Borrowed from the library. I never knew fabric could be manipulated in so many ways, that actually looked both interesting and nice. I'm going to have to look at it again; I only remember a couple of ideas in the book.

[Kira Gold]

One of the most informative and clear books I have read on fabric geometry ever. Clear pictures on how to work the second dimension into the third; a must for any stitcher, cutter-draper or designer. I recommend it as reading to all my students.

[Lena]

Same as the other sewing books I just purchased: can't wait to start reading it.

[Tara]

I haven't had a chance to try out any of the techniques. The photos are amazing. I'm looking forward to revisiting this when I find some time to play with fabric.

[Charlotte]

one of mt favorites

[Angela]

A remarkable resource for those who love to explore the wide range of textures available through fabric manipulation. I wish to create a sample of many of the techiques.

[Sarah Maker]

Really great reference work for any kind of pleating, gathering, smocking, ruching, or ruffling.