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Pepys at Table: Seventeenth Century Recipes for the Modern Cook
Recipes that pair a modern food menu with the consciousness of the 17th Century.
128 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 1984
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Displaying 1 - 2 of 2 reviews
December 8, 2007
Long before Samuel Pepys (1633-1703) had a blog, he had a cookbook. Published by Christopher Driver and Michelle Berriedale-Johnson in 1984, Pepys at Table is a delightful little guide to everything from Gravysoop to Nun's Biskets.
The recipes are either dishes that Pepys mentions in his famous diary, things he would likely have eaten, or culled from cookbooks in his possession. The recipes have sometimes been liberally adapted by the authors for modern tastes and substitutions for hard-to-come-by ingredients are offered. The book is old enough, however, that once inaccessible ingredients have become once again available, at least through mail-order. Verjuice, made from pressing unripe grapes, was popular in the 17th century, unobtainable in 1984, and is now making a 21st century comeback in the vineyards of Australia.
Because of the substitutions and adaptations, this is not the best book for people interested in cooking a meal with absolute historical accuracy, but it does suggest the flavor of another time (a strong flavor, both oily and piquant, as far as I can make out) and would be an excellent guide for an amusing dinner party for devotees of Samuel Pepys.
Most of the recipes include a selection from the diary, illustrating Pepys to be a man of vigorous appetites. Here is an example, followed in the book by a historical recipe for Cream Toasts and a modern adaptation:
1665 July 13th
"...and so I by water, at night late, to Sir G Carterets. But there being no oares to carry me, I was fain to call a Sculler that had a gentleman already in it; and he proved a man of love to Musique and he and I sung together the way down--with great pleasure, and an accident extraordinary to be met with. There came to Dinner, they having dined, but my Lady caused something to be brought for me and I dined well, and might merry, especially my Lady Slany and I about eating of Creame and brown bread--which she loves as much as I."
The authors explain that Pepys would have felt a meal to be incomplete without music and the cookbook reflects this, even even going so far as to include the score and lyrics of a bawdy song by Purcell:
Once, Twice, Thrice, I Julia try'd,
The scornful Puss as oft denied,
and since, and since I can no better, better thrive,
I'll cringe to ne'er a bitch alive,
So kiss my Ar-, so kiss my Ar-,
so kiss my Ar-, disdainful Sow,
Good Claret, good Claret is my Mistress now.
The recipes are either dishes that Pepys mentions in his famous diary, things he would likely have eaten, or culled from cookbooks in his possession. The recipes have sometimes been liberally adapted by the authors for modern tastes and substitutions for hard-to-come-by ingredients are offered. The book is old enough, however, that once inaccessible ingredients have become once again available, at least through mail-order. Verjuice, made from pressing unripe grapes, was popular in the 17th century, unobtainable in 1984, and is now making a 21st century comeback in the vineyards of Australia.
Because of the substitutions and adaptations, this is not the best book for people interested in cooking a meal with absolute historical accuracy, but it does suggest the flavor of another time (a strong flavor, both oily and piquant, as far as I can make out) and would be an excellent guide for an amusing dinner party for devotees of Samuel Pepys.
Most of the recipes include a selection from the diary, illustrating Pepys to be a man of vigorous appetites. Here is an example, followed in the book by a historical recipe for Cream Toasts and a modern adaptation:
1665 July 13th
"...and so I by water, at night late, to Sir G Carterets. But there being no oares to carry me, I was fain to call a Sculler that had a gentleman already in it; and he proved a man of love to Musique and he and I sung together the way down--with great pleasure, and an accident extraordinary to be met with. There came to Dinner, they having dined, but my Lady caused something to be brought for me and I dined well, and might merry, especially my Lady Slany and I about eating of Creame and brown bread--which she loves as much as I."
The authors explain that Pepys would have felt a meal to be incomplete without music and the cookbook reflects this, even even going so far as to include the score and lyrics of a bawdy song by Purcell:
Once, Twice, Thrice, I Julia try'd,
The scornful Puss as oft denied,
and since, and since I can no better, better thrive,
I'll cringe to ne'er a bitch alive,
So kiss my Ar-, so kiss my Ar-,
so kiss my Ar-, disdainful Sow,
Good Claret, good Claret is my Mistress now.
September 12, 2011
Amusing anecdotes, but without fail, every recipe I tried from this book came out badly. It was really remarkable. I don't mean that there was anything wrong with the recipes, only that the results made me pity seventeenth century English people.
Displaying 1 - 2 of 2 reviews