Midnight in Sicily is a fantastic and frustrating book, written by Peter Robb an Australian with a deep abiding love for the Mezzogiorno and its people.
I picked up the book thinking that it would be an insight into the life of those in Sicily. It certainly is but I was not prepared to the extent that it would focus on the Cosa Nostra (the mafia) and its pernicious grip on Italian politics and business as the lens through which to view Sicily. For me, this was not an unwelcome angle given I have prior historical interest in the topic and given the era in which Robb lived in Palermo it is certainly justified. However, I can imagine that for many readers the minute detail with which he examines various sagas of mafioso murders and political intrigue would be too much. It is difficult to pick out larger themes amidst all the details, however the various threads do tie together as one goes on.
That being said, it cannot be doubted that the detailed narrative shines a very illuminating light on a host of figures who deserve opprobrium. Robb centres on Giulio Andreotti, several times Prime Minister of Italy and his associations with various corrupt, murderous ‘Men of Honour’ from Michele Sandona who caused the largest banking crash in Italian history, to Shorty Riina, a corpulent brutal butcher of a man, who all but waged war against the Italian state in the early 1990s as he attempted to bend the entire Mafia and Italian government to his will. The central place of Andreotti in the book works very well, once one becomes used to the way the narrative jumps around, providing an insight into how interlinked with crime key political players were.
When not focusing on Cosa Nostra and politics, there are various interesting asides into Sicilian cuisine, culture and literature. From insights on Di Lampedusa the melancholy Sicilian aristocrat who wrote the famous The Leopard, to the mosaic like dish of pasta con le sarde, all of these asides are majestically written and charming. He writes about food with a real passion and a description of his first encounter of a market in Palermo will stick long in the mind.
That being said, these are perhaps less of these than I would have liked. While I greatly enjoyed the book, I was expecting more of such writing rather than a continual return to the pernicious shadow of Cosa Nostra. The book could be said to be more a history book on the Mafia than a piece of travel writing on Sicily and its people. But then again perhaps the constant return of Robb to a dark subject matter reflects his view of the Sicily he found.
Robb approvingly quotes the writings of Leopoldo Franchetti, a Tuscan visitor to the island in the 1880s who noted that while Sicily was beautiful and hospital after a certain number of mafia murders "all that perfume of orange blossom and lemon blossom starts to smell of corpses.’ I think Robb, whether intentionally or not, endorses the same message, and this is a shame because he writes so evocatively about so many of Sicily's positives. I would have liked to read a bit more about these, as there is a danger that a reader could come away from this book, which is meant to be a travelogue written about the island, associating Sicily with nothing more than Cosa Nostra.