Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close

by Hannah Carlson

“Who knew the humble pocket could hold so much history? In this enthralling and always surprising account, Hannah Carlson turns the pocket inside out and out tumble pocket watches, coins, pistols, and a riveting centuries-long social and political history.”  ― Jill Lepore, author of These Truths: A History of the United States

Pockets "showcases the best features of cultural history: a lively combination of visual, literary and documentary evidence. As sumptuously illustrated as it is learned … this highly inventive and original book demands a pocket sequel.”  ― Jane Kamensky, Wall Street Journal

Who gets pockets, and why?

It’s a subject that stirs up plenty of passion: Why do men’s clothes have so many pockets and women’s so few? And why are the pockets on women’s clothes often too small to fit phones, if they even open at all? In her captivating book, Hannah Carlson, a lecturer in dress history at the Rhode Island School of Design, reveals the issues of gender politics, security, sexuality, power, and privilege tucked inside our pockets.

Throughout the medieval era in Europe, the purse was an almost universal dress feature. But when tailors stitched the first pockets into men’s trousers five hundred years ago, it ignited controversy and introduced a range of social issues that we continue to wrestle with today, from concealed pistols to gender inequality. #GiveMePocketsOrGiveMeDeath.

Filled with incredible images, this microhistory of the humble pocket uncovers what pockets tell us about How is it that putting your hands in your pockets can be seen as a sign of laziness, arrogance, confidence, or perversion? Walt Whitman’s author photograph, hand in pocket, for Leaves of Grass seemed like an affront to middle-class respectability. When W.E.B. Du Bois posed for a portrait, his pocketed hands signaled defiant coolness.

And what else might be hiding in the history of our pockets? (There’s a reason that the contents of Abraham Lincoln’s pockets are the most popular exhibit at the Library of Congress.) Thinking about the future, Carlson asks whether we will still want pockets when our clothes contain “smart” textiles that incorporate our IDs and credit cards.

Pockets is for the legions of people obsessed with pockets and their absence, and for anyone interested in how our clothes influence the way we navigate the world.

Genres: Nonfiction, History, Fashion, Microhistory, Audiobook, Feminism, Cultural

320 pages, Hardcover

First published January 1, 2023

Reviews

[Hannah · Rating 4 out of 5]

Rounding up to 4. Fun way to look at history. Covered a wide breadth, but mostly with a Euro centric lens.

[Jolanta (knygupė) · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.5*
Gražiai išleista, labai fainai iliustruota monografija. Ne tik apie kišenių istoriją, bet ir apie jų įtaką kultūrai, etiketui, feminizmui. Ir, apskritai, apie lyčių nelygybę.

Emily Dickinson vargo su siuvėjais dėl kišenių, kuriose norėjo laikyti pieštuką ir popierių, bet pasiekė savo. Hannah Carlson: [Dickinson] ‘had a room of her own – and a reliable pocket’.

Pasirodo vyrams rankas laikyti kišenėse bendraujant (ypač su moterimis) nepadoru, nes jos per arti lytinių organų. Ir tikri džentelmenai, pavyzdžiui fotografuodamiesi, stengėsi nepamiršti ištraukti rankų iš kišenių.
O štai Walt Whitman savo garsiojo poezijos rinkinio “Žolės lapai” prieštitulinio puslapio iliustracijai pozavo demonstratyviai laikydamas ranką kišenėje.

Verta dėmesio ir laiko knyga.

[Kimberly · Rating 5 out of 5]

Before reading Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close, I had never given much thought to pockets. This book changed that and made me view pockets in an entirely new light. Beautifully illustrated and thoroughly researched, this book is informative, entertaining, and accessible to the average reader. The five-hundred-year history of pockets is condensed to give readers the most interesting and mind-boggling facts. Throughout history, pockets have been fraught with many different meanings and connotations encompassing everything from sexuality and gender to politics and morality. Along with a history of how pockets evolved over time, there are sections on pocket inventories, a look to the future of pockets, and a discussion of how “pocket inequity” continues to this day. This is really a fascinating and, at times, astonishing read. Hannah Carlson has done a wonderful job. Many thanks to Algonquin for a chance to read a copy and offer my opinion.

[Tamara York · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars. I am passionate about pockets. So when I saw this book, I was intrigued. Then I saw it at Barnes and Noble and a passing employee (who was also a fashion major) stopped to recommend it, I knew I had to buy it. A beautiful book with color illustrations this covers the history, use, design, and sexism of pockets. I learned a lot from this extremely well researched book. It lacked an engaging narrative voice, but that might be asking too much for the topic. I’m glad I read it and am now more informed on my favorite clothing feature.

[Cindy · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you know my reading habits at all, you know I love obscure history, so this title absolutely grabbed my attention. A history of pockets?!? Yes, please!
Pockets were invented - which I never thought about. Men and women both originally wore them as bags tied to the waist under any clothing. Men's clothing gradually developed modern pockets and women gradually developed handbags, although this wasn't always completely gender-specific.
There was so much I found interesting, but I'll just share one thing I don't think I'll ever forget. Beginning in the nineteenth century there was a fascination with the things little boys stored in their pockets. Novels and magazine articles included detailed lists and parents kept actual inventories of stuff they took from their boys' pockets.
A couple of decades later, it became great fun to talk about the stuff women keep in their purses. You'll be shocked to know that the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in boys' pockets was considered a sign of their ingenuity and budding genius while the variety and seeming uselessness of the items in women's purses was considered hilarious proof of their absent-mindedness and lack of practicality.
Now that women's clothing is gradually gaining pocket equity, there is even a movement demanding that little girls' clothing have pockets like little boys' have, which I love. Now their parents can inventory their pockets.
I could go on and on, but I'll let you read the book.

[Brenda · Rating 5 out of 5]

Pockets by Hannah Carlson is a rollicking and informative look at pockets throughout history with fascinating illustrations and photographs. The writing is witty, engaging, deftly-crafted and sharp as scissors. I learned, giggled and was disappointed when it ended. Such an intriguing topic to get into, as I have done with several people. We take pockets for granted but we didn't always have them. In fact, it wasn't until five hundred years ago when men first started using pockets. It was a male thing even then when little boys had them in which to store their treasures but girls didn't.

So many bits stand out in my mind but amongst them are the chagrin pocketless chain-mail-wearing knights felt on hot days, difficult laundering which forced ripping apart seams to re-attach the opposite way for increased wearability, gorgeous embroidered purses, the differences between measurements of male and female pockets even to this day, uniforms, multitudinous gentleman's suit pockets, links to famous writers, pickpockets and other crimes. Every page holds a plethora of treats to discover!

If you are beguiled by pockets and their secrets and what they say about us as human beings over the decades, this book is for you. Talk about a delightful experience riddled with lightbulb moments galore! I feel smarter after reading it.

My sincere thank you to Algonquin Books and NetGalley for providing me with a digital copy of this outstanding book.

[Charlotte]

I LOVE POCKETS I LOVE POCKETS

[Jeff · Rating 3 out of 5]

Apparel design and its history was really interesting. Pockets and their design have been influenced by war, gender norms, royalty, high fashion, consumer preferences, technology, etc.

[Elizabeth Chadsey · Rating 4 out of 5]

Not a topic most people would be drawn to but I love a history piece that’s focussed on the story of a specific topic as time, humans and culture grow and change.

[Ashley T · Rating 4 out of 5]

3.5 Pretty interesting, but I did find it slightly dry, maybe because I did it as an audiobook from the library so I did not have access to the photos/images. If the topic interests you it’s worth reading for sure!

[Carolyn Whitzman · Rating 4 out of 5]

We listened to a podcast with the author several months ago, and then @athena mentioned she’d read the book. An excellent, well-researched bit of popular history. The focus is on Europe and North America, which is a bit of a shame, because I was interested in how the rest of the world handled pockets. The gender aspects are well handled - not only the critical lack of pockets in women’s clothes, but also the performance of masculinity in slouching with pockets (Walt Whitman, who knew?).

[Nancy Smith · Rating 5 out of 5]

Interesting book. Patriarchal control over pockets- or lack of them in women’s clothes.

[Laura · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed the history. Would have preferred less quotes from plays.

[Ashley · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fun, but it all kind of ran together for me.

[3.5 stars]

[Homerun2 · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 stars

Fun and informative book about pockets. Who knew pockets in clothing had so much history behind them or so much political and gender history?

This is definitely a quirky book, but entertaining. I have long complained about the lack of pockets in our clothing and I am not alone. The historical explanations for lack of pockets as well as the vast differences between the utilitarianism of men's and women's garments was interesting. There are a nice selection of odd photos illustrating pockets through the ages.

The sections on the fashion industry was quite fascinating. Pockets have served as provocative highlights of all kinds of garments. A quick and fun read. I received an advance review copy for free, and I am leaving this review voluntarily.

[Maxine Springer · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5 | More and more I’m coming to love a microhistory that analyzes a seemingly minor topic that actually is so reflective of greater trends/sociology. I was excited to dig deep into the history and social ramifications of pockets. I did appreciate that it went heavy into fashion trends but also into meanings behind who gets pockets and why, what people are putting in them and even the significance of the posture of sticking your hands in your pockets. While this delivered on the facts, it was lacking in personality and felt quite academic.

It was fun to chat this with my college besties book club - we not only chatted about what we learned but also why pockets are meaningful to us in personal ways.

[Tracey Allen at Carpe Librum · Rating 3 out of 5]

Pockets - An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close by Hannah Carlson was an interesting read. I listened to the audiobook read by Stephanie Cannon and while I have a passing and somewhat shallow interest in the history of pockets, I was reasonably entertained here. According to her bio, Hannah Carlson teaches dress history and is a conservator with a PhD in material culture, so she knows her subject matter.

After the medieval period when the purse was a separate item, men wore their purse hanging from their belt, while women wore theirs hanging around mid thigh, meaning that it swung when the wearer walked. In addition, the placement of one's purse could be provocative, and held a surprising (to me) amount of erotic appeal.

"How you wore your purse distinguished between masculine and feminine dress, but the purse itself did not belong to a single gender." Chapter 5

Carlson tells us the word 'pocket' is a borrowing of the French word for bag, and moves through history touching on the fashion for cod pieces, the dagger purse and the dangers of men carrying hidden weapons and pistols in their newly concealed pockets.

What about women's fashion? In Chapter 8, the author tells us that pockets for women have never been as popular in women's clothing as in men's. I was surprised to learn that in the 1800s, some dressmakers created hidden pockets in the bustle of ladies skirts. Located in the middle of the lower back in an early form of bum bag, women would turn themselves in circles trying to twist and retrieve items impractically stored in their bustle pocket.

I enjoyed the commentary about men and courtiers standing and walking with their hands in their pockets and the uproar and claims of indecency made by fellow citizens at the time. I couldn't help but smile in recognition here, as I recall ranting about the trend in the 1990s that saw baggy pants worn low enough to display the wearer's briefs/boxers/g-string and in some cases so low as to cause the wearer to adopt a ridiculous style of walking to prevent their pants from falling down.

The gender politics of pockets and fashion inequality don't really interest me, but the introduction 500 years ago of pockets sewn into men's pants had an unexpected impact on the way men walked and even the way that they stood, some choosing to put a hand inside their pocket or their waistcoat.

"In a pose promulgated by fashionable people, and upheld by professionals, the aristocrat standing at his ease appeared as if he had wrapped himself in a loose embrace. In Britain, painters seized on the hand in waistcoat gesture as a popular portrait formula, believing it depicted qualities of modesty and reserve." Chapter 7

It's interesting to see this pose now and not wonder what the 'portrait pose' is for our time; perhaps it's the flamingo pose or the bambi pose. (Both legitimate poses trending on Instagram right now, but that's 30 mins of valuable reading time I'll never get back after searching 'portrait poses over time').

Back to the book, and Carlson swiftly moves towards the present day, describing the shift from pockets to purses and handbags and the endless battle between functionality versus fashion.

I enjoyed the author's assessment of the explosion in pocket popularity in the 1990s with the resurgence of cargo pants, but perhaps my favourite line from the book was the optimism in going out without pockets or a handbag to carry necessities like keys, tissues, phone, lip balm etc.

"In pared down designs, the person announces their unconcern; their belief that nothing is required and that nothing will go wrong." Chapter 11

That's it exactly! I'm never that optimistic and always take more than I end up needing.

Pockets - An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close by Hannah Carlson is recommended for readers with an interest in micro history, fashion and gender politics. This 3 star rating is largely reflective of my interest level in the topic and not representative of the author's knowledge of the subject, which is deep.

I still have The Pocket - A Hidden History of Women's Lives, 1660–1900 by Barbara Burman on my virtual TBR pile but I think I might have well and truly scratched that itch here.

[Sonali Dabade]

DNF @ 18%.

In this book, Hannah Carlson takes us through the history and evolution of pockets, its connection to feminism, how it started as an external purse but was included into garments, historical incidents and literary references to these extremely functional parts of everyday clothes, and more. While the premise itself is fantastic – because as us women have been shouting from the rooftops for years, pockets are important! – the writing is too academic for my liking. It is stiff with no easy flow and sentence structure. Instead, it begs for the reader to delineate between important facts, examples, and embellishments, which in my opinion, only shrinks the readership instead of its intended goal of reaching more people.

I gave up 18% into the book, although I think that it probably wouldn’t be this bad – I might love it even – if I were reading a physical copy of it.

[Shanereads · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoyed reading pockets! What an interesting and niche piece of history this book covers. I love wearing pockets in my clothing and bags. I feel I am always on a quest to find the perfect coat, pants, or bag with exactly the right pockets that suit my needs for different occasions. Never I had previously considered the socio economic history or the gendered history behind something that would otherwise seem mundane

Pockets covers the invention of the pocket from the 18th century forward. This book addresses the intimacy of pockets and how they were used as everything from intimate clothing to a central argument of women's freedom during the women's suffragette movement.

Booksellers, if you have a customer who enjoys books such as the Orchid Thief, The Feather Thief, Stiff and other niche history books, this would be a great pairing!

[Beth Evans · Rating 4 out of 5]

I am the target demographic for this book. History, sociology, gender studies, a little political science, all in a book about pockets? Come on.

I just wish it ended differently. The first 6 chapters explained centuries of gendered rules and etiquette around pockets, and then the last chapter gave us a synopsis of whacky pockets of the 20th and 21st century. Ms. Carlson, ma’am, WHY DO MY DRESSES STILL NOT HAVE POCKETS? Please advise.

[Apriel · Rating 4 out of 5]

I’m not sure how I can find a book so interesting and yet have it put me to sleep Every Time I opened it. The actual history and evolution of pockets was fascinating while the more contemporary stuff didn’t interest me as much. I don’t really care what you’re trying to “say” with your weird nonfunctional pockets. Just give me a pocket big enough to carry all of my important crap.

[Kristie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Have you ever wondered **why** women's clothing has fewer pockets than men's? Have you ever looked closely at an inset pocket and marveled at the design? Have you ever been curious about medieval women assassins? Then this is the book for you. It's a history of pockets, but to cover that, it's also by necessity a history of clothing, tailoring, gender and the way humans prepare themselves to go out in the world. It's riveting! I read the book in Kindle format, and the images that provide examples throughout work exceptionally well on Kindle.

[Stefani · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book was most interesting when it veered away from the main subject and explored specific historical figures via some associated topic or anecdote. Overall, I didn’t feel like I learned much I didn’t know before, though I appreciated the creativity in approaching a loosely-bound survey of fashion and gender politics through this particular aperture.

[Linda · Rating 3 out of 5]

Eh! I'm sure I would have done better reading this rather listening to this (at twice the speed). Still what I gleaned was interesting. Involved more "regular" history than what I expected. Even info on handbags.

[Chloe · Rating 4 out of 5]

So
Please tell me I’m not the only one who remembered this literary reference to little girls pockets,
when little laura ingalls stuffed her pockets with so many rocks her pocket fell right off her dress


————————————————————————————
I loved how the author could explain centuries of social, economic, and cultural events through the humble pocket. I think I understand how clothes become more casual and comfortable, but I kinda got lost half way through sometimes
I don’t know maybe it was just me but some chapters were harder to read.

[Book Buying With Katie · Rating 3 out of 5]

I came for the feminist pocket politics, which was definitely in here and super interesting, but there was a lot more fashion history than I wanted, haha. Which is my bad for sure, not the book's. 3.25 stars.

[Alexis Petty · Rating 3 out of 5]

3.5

[Melinda · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a fun book to read. And who knew there was so much to the humble pocket. Bravo.

[Jo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fascinating, full of great images, and a lot less scholarly/dense than the history of 18th century tie-on pockets I read (which this book references). This is much wider ranging, looking at pockets throughout history and into the imagined future, and what might be kept inside them. Quite thought-provoking, and amusing too.

[Gi V · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not as compelling as other 'history of' [some random thing] that I've read recently. Still, it was interesting.