* Shows you how to get started with sport climbing, or push your skills further than you thought they could go
* Sport climbing is a fun, accessible aspect of climbing that many people can participate in
* Foreword by Chris Sharma, the best known American sport climber
Sport climbers often project a route that tests their physical limits in hopes of an eventual completion, regardless of the number of attempts. Succeeding requires a solid understanding of belaying and other climbing techniques that are used in various climbing disciplines, but are detailed here specifically for sport climbing.
Targeting varying abilities, Sport Climbing teaches climbers how to rehearse moves and train for routes, how to get through the pump, how to fight until the end of a pitch, how to stay composed when tired, and how to best use their bodies to climb efficiently and expertly. Whether inspiring new climbers to learn the nuances of scaling vertical terrain, or delving into a deeper, more conceptual understanding of how to go about projecting a route, Andrew Bisharat brings confidence and a level of practicality to the sport. He demonstrates how skills specific to redpointing transfer over to traditional climbing, making this a must-have book for any climber. Featuring tips from famous climbers such as Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, the author brings a modern voice to a fun and exciting sport.
I don't think this book is a substitution for instruction, and if you already know how to sport climb you probably won't get much out of it. But if you want to be prepared before you take a class, or supplement your learning, this is pretty helpful. It also has some interesting sections on the history of climbing. The author is passionate and keeps it flowing.
This book serves as a helpful and comprehensive guide to various facets of sport climbing. Yet, it occasionally falters when the author overly extends his personal preferences in areas such as shoe selection, resting practices, redpoint strategies. What works for him may not universally apply.
Sport climbing is rock climbing on routes where points of protection have been drilled into the rock with bolts. This differentiates it from "traditional" climbing, in which the rock is clean and unobtrusive protection must be placed on the way up. As such, sport climbing allows for less error on the climber's part, and solid protection when the climber falls.
As a intermediate gym climber moving to outdoor climbing, this book has been a fantastic introduction to outdoor sport climbing. It covers some of the history of sport climbing, the type of mental and physical endurance needed, equipment and how to set and clean it up, and how techniques for improving climbing ability. Much of this material is what you learn from experienced climbers around you, but it's helpful to have all that information contained in one place.
It also helps that the book is exceptionally well written. Bisharat is both an experienced writer and an experienced climber, which allows him to very effectively transmit enthusiasm for climbing throughout the book. He portrays sport climbing as a balancing act between exertion and rest, where finding the rhythm of the climb is more important than powering through every move. He'll describe how one route might have you pushing through a difficult section to reach a tenuous resting place, where you can hang just long enough to shake the lactic acid from your arms, while any longer would sap the rest of your endurance. It's such an accurate description of a physical experience that you will often want to put the book down and go climbing immediately!
While people already lead climbing in the gym or climbing top roping outdoors will know about 40-60% of the book's material, the enthusiasm of climbing improvement the book generates is worth the price alone. Highly recommended.
Not many books will save your life, but this one is squarely in that category. If you're planning on doing outdoor sport climbing, do it after you read this book. It's crammed with all sorts of excellent advice that will float back into your adrenaline-crazed mind as you get ready to clean an anchor.
An excellent guide and primer to sport climbing. It's clear, comprehensive and written in a manner that stokes your enthusiasm to go out and send hard.