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Bespoke: Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed
This is the true-life story of a boy who quit school to become an apprentice on Savile Row, home to London's most venerable tailors, and wound up owning his own shop on the world-famous 'Golden Mile', where he hand-cuts exquisite suits for a clientele including royalty, politicians, literati, business tycoons, and media stars. On a bright, bitterly cold and snowy morning in January 1982, 17-year-old Richard Anderson made his way with his father to an interview at Savile Row's illustrious Henry Huntsman & Sons. They were late, but Richard got the job, with its meagre salary of only GBP2,000 a year, and his life was changed forever. Huntsman was arguably the world's most prestigious tailoring house, and Richard's apprenticeship proved a humbling ordeal overseen by three titans of the the formidably debonair Colin Hammick, fellow chain-smoker and grumpy eccentric Brian Hall, and Dick Lakey, the company's heroically overworked 'leg man'. Training under these men in the arcane art of making trousers and coats that could cost as much as GBP10,000 was an inspiring but also gruelling game, yet 'Young Richard' persisted for 17 more years of rigorous practice in perfectionism and prestige - to become, at 34, the youngest head cutter in Huntsman's 150-year history. Witty and told with great candour, Bespoke is a fascinating behind-the-scenes expose of life on Savile Row from one of the world's most celebrated and successful tailors.
320 pages, Hardcover
First published September 1, 2009
18 people are currently reading
245 people want to read
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Richard Anderson
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Displaying 1 - 16 of 16 reviews
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July 1, 2024I have no helpful opinion about this book – not that I ever have any helpful opinions about any particular book at all. But to break with my usual tradition on goodreads, I also have no unhelpful opinions.
I thought the book would interest me – I like sewing, there’s few things so beautiful in this life as an elegant man wearing a bespoke suit, and I was curious how the “trade” looks on the inside. I ended up being more interested in the quote from Tailor & Cutter; instructions on how to deal with an overly-fussy customer, by making chalk marks in places where the customer points out non-existent faults, whilst looking at him attentive and sombre-faced, then as soon as he leaves, promptly erasing them from the fabric. Now, that was funny.
Other than that, surprisingly, I just couldn’t manage to read on.
On a completely different note: must there truly be in every single trade, from tailoring to cuisine, a sort of a master-sadist, who will deliberately humiliate the new, underpaid hire – to sort of “break him,” often by obtusely withholding information? This is by no means a criticism of situations described in this specific book – I’m just wondering. Are people with decades of experience and mastery of their craft, who on the surface ought to command respect, secretly so devoid of self-possession or so insecure, that they feel compelled to bully the new boy with random displays of uncontrolled temper? It seems hardly edifying.
I thought the book would interest me – I like sewing, there’s few things so beautiful in this life as an elegant man wearing a bespoke suit, and I was curious how the “trade” looks on the inside. I ended up being more interested in the quote from Tailor & Cutter; instructions on how to deal with an overly-fussy customer, by making chalk marks in places where the customer points out non-existent faults, whilst looking at him attentive and sombre-faced, then as soon as he leaves, promptly erasing them from the fabric. Now, that was funny.
Other than that, surprisingly, I just couldn’t manage to read on.
On a completely different note: must there truly be in every single trade, from tailoring to cuisine, a sort of a master-sadist, who will deliberately humiliate the new, underpaid hire – to sort of “break him,” often by obtusely withholding information? This is by no means a criticism of situations described in this specific book – I’m just wondering. Are people with decades of experience and mastery of their craft, who on the surface ought to command respect, secretly so devoid of self-possession or so insecure, that they feel compelled to bully the new boy with random displays of uncontrolled temper? It seems hardly edifying.
February 14, 2010
I found this book absolutely fascinating. I enjoy reading biographies but think this is the most entertaining so far.
It combines the history and mystique of Saville Row with the humour of Richard Anderson, it is also a form of business guide as well.
I could picture the scenes and the characters easily, and although famous names were mentioned it wasn't in the sense of name dropping, merely to add to what was being said.
I would happily recommend this book to others.
It combines the history and mystique of Saville Row with the humour of Richard Anderson, it is also a form of business guide as well.
I could picture the scenes and the characters easily, and although famous names were mentioned it wasn't in the sense of name dropping, merely to add to what was being said.
I would happily recommend this book to others.
November 4, 2013
This book told a story of a craftsman. While it was particularly interesting to me as someone who is interested in mens custom suits, I think anyone who appreciates artisans and craft will find the book interesting and perhaps even inspiring.
Richard does a nice job of weaving in details of the trade with a narrative of his personal experience as well as historical information. All-in-all very well done.
Richard does a nice job of weaving in details of the trade with a narrative of his personal experience as well as historical information. All-in-all very well done.
November 23, 2011
I was fascinated. I even understood most of the sewing situations he talked about. I have a true respect for suit makers and especially those 'Bespoke' makers. Imagine having something made so perfectly for you and your shape. Very impressed.
November 11, 2009
This first book of its kind from the point of view of an actual maker of some of the finest men's garments available today.
April 17, 2022
Very well written. Great insight in to how saville row works and hidden amidst the anecdotes are tid bits about how tailored clothes are measured and made and if you pay attention you will be able to pick up pointers on what to look/ask for when looking for your own suits or tailored clothing.
May 22, 2017
Interesting inside view
Fascinating window into men's tailoring. As a sewer, I enjoyed learning the technical side of the craft.
I enjoyed reading about his personal success story.
Fascinating window into men's tailoring. As a sewer, I enjoyed learning the technical side of the craft.
I enjoyed reading about his personal success story.
April 27, 2021
A light and pleasant read, a little heavy on tailoring details, but still fun. One of those books that lets you into a special little world not accessible to the general public. Recommended.
March 13, 2015
For somebody who doesn’t care an awful lot about her own clothes – I could happily spend my days wearing jeans, t-shirt and DocMartens – I have developed a serious kink when it comes to menswear, or rather: bespoke menswear. It all started when I took up writing fanfiction because one of my MCs is always impeccably dressed and wears the most beautiful three piece suits. Well, if you want your stories to be believable and if you want your characters to come to life, you need to do some proper research, and so I started researching bespoke clothing. And lo and behold, what a rich world it is! So utterly different from anything I’ve ever busied myself with but nevertheless fascinating. I started learning about different tie knots, lapels, braces, turn-ups, linings, waistcoats, vents… you name it, and when I stumbled across Mr Anderson’s book via my friendly online retailer’s recommendation, I jumped and bought it.
What can I say… I loved it. I devoured it on the daily train rides to and from work, in bed before going to sleep and during my lunch breaks, and whenever I had to put it down to return to my reality, I became really irritated. Explain the fascination of a ‘tailor’s’ biography to the monochromatic world you’re surrounded by most of your waking hours. “What does he write about? Buttonholes?” No, he doesn’t, although there is mention of a young apprentice being sent to fetch some black buttonholes. “Does he gossip about celebrities?” No, he doesn’t, although he mentions a few names.
So what makes it so interesting?
If you open the book to accept Mr Anderson’s invitation, he will take you on a journey into a world that is – to the average person – as exotic and strange as, say, Avatar’s Pandora. It’s rich and luscious and aggressive and elegant, and my brief glimpse into that world filled me with a certain amount of envy for those who are passionate about their work, a work that doesn’t revolve about profit and more and higher and shinier (although, of course, Savile Row houses are businesses, too, and as such strive to keep their figures balanced and thriving). It’s about a craftman’s pride, about creating something that is beautiful and lasting. It’s about constant value in a world that is forever changing, and it has taught me about class and quality.
As for the tone of the book, it’s well-written, funny but respectful, glimpsing into the world of the rich and famous without tasteless gossiping. Sadly, there are no photos but if you’re interested, fire up your search engine and will fill find what you’re looking for. Easy, really. Shouldn’t discourage you from picking up this book because it’s an entertaining read nevertheless, and well worth your time.
It’s unlikely my salary will ever allow me to order a bespoke suit (and yes, Mr Anderson cuts for women, too) but it’s something I’ve added to daydream list, my little happy-thoughts-island. Should I ever win the lottery (ha ha), I’m making an appointment at 13 Savile Row.
What can I say… I loved it. I devoured it on the daily train rides to and from work, in bed before going to sleep and during my lunch breaks, and whenever I had to put it down to return to my reality, I became really irritated. Explain the fascination of a ‘tailor’s’ biography to the monochromatic world you’re surrounded by most of your waking hours. “What does he write about? Buttonholes?” No, he doesn’t, although there is mention of a young apprentice being sent to fetch some black buttonholes. “Does he gossip about celebrities?” No, he doesn’t, although he mentions a few names.
So what makes it so interesting?
If you open the book to accept Mr Anderson’s invitation, he will take you on a journey into a world that is – to the average person – as exotic and strange as, say, Avatar’s Pandora. It’s rich and luscious and aggressive and elegant, and my brief glimpse into that world filled me with a certain amount of envy for those who are passionate about their work, a work that doesn’t revolve about profit and more and higher and shinier (although, of course, Savile Row houses are businesses, too, and as such strive to keep their figures balanced and thriving). It’s about a craftman’s pride, about creating something that is beautiful and lasting. It’s about constant value in a world that is forever changing, and it has taught me about class and quality.
As for the tone of the book, it’s well-written, funny but respectful, glimpsing into the world of the rich and famous without tasteless gossiping. Sadly, there are no photos but if you’re interested, fire up your search engine and will fill find what you’re looking for. Easy, really. Shouldn’t discourage you from picking up this book because it’s an entertaining read nevertheless, and well worth your time.
It’s unlikely my salary will ever allow me to order a bespoke suit (and yes, Mr Anderson cuts for women, too) but it’s something I’ve added to daydream list, my little happy-thoughts-island. Should I ever win the lottery (ha ha), I’m making an appointment at 13 Savile Row.
November 28, 2016
This memoir chronicles the journey of a 17-year old who dropped out of school to apprentice at Savile Row's leading tailor shop, and who, as a Master Cutter, founded the youngest bespoke tailoring house on Savile Row.
Though the book is a bit of a "tell-all" regarding Savile Row and the bespoke tailoring trade, it is addressed at a lay audience and is a breezy read. I liken it somewhat to Anthony Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential", though Anderson has more decorum.
Richard Anderson is careful not just to document Savile Row, but to tell a story. His workmates and especially his apprenticeship mentors are essential characters. He sometimes describes some aspect of the tailoring trade as a way to set the table to foreshadow major events in his career. Some of these events (no spoilers here) vividly evoke the long heritage of bespoke tailoring, and are especially poignant.
You get a good feel what it was like to start from the very bottom - fetching coffee and sandwiches for the rest of the staff - and slowly work up the ladder to the pinnacle of the tailoring profession. And you get insights into the business and the craft of tailoring. A fascinating read.
Though the book is a bit of a "tell-all" regarding Savile Row and the bespoke tailoring trade, it is addressed at a lay audience and is a breezy read. I liken it somewhat to Anthony Bourdain's "Kitchen Confidential", though Anderson has more decorum.
Richard Anderson is careful not just to document Savile Row, but to tell a story. His workmates and especially his apprenticeship mentors are essential characters. He sometimes describes some aspect of the tailoring trade as a way to set the table to foreshadow major events in his career. Some of these events (no spoilers here) vividly evoke the long heritage of bespoke tailoring, and are especially poignant.
You get a good feel what it was like to start from the very bottom - fetching coffee and sandwiches for the rest of the staff - and slowly work up the ladder to the pinnacle of the tailoring profession. And you get insights into the business and the craft of tailoring. A fascinating read.
September 15, 2013
Similar to Marco Pierre White's book The Devil In The Kitchen in that it recounts the education of an English lad to an old traditional trade via The School of Hard Knocks. More importantly this is one of the best books written about menswear and is absolutely mandatory reading for anyone involved in the craft of tailoring at all.
Anderson goes into great instructional detail all through the book on how to best fit a suit or pants on someone with an uneven body - like 99% of us out there. He explains how to even out a higher shoulder or a lower leg and make everything perfectly fitted. There's a wealth of information in his book that you'll find indispensable, complete with an excellent glossary of tailoring terms. There's also a fairly amusing back story on Abercrombie & Fitch that has to be read to be believed!
The used book store from England that I purchased my copy from sent me a signed copy from Mr. Anderson, which states,
"Respect and Regards,
Dress Well,
Richard".
I love this book!
Anderson goes into great instructional detail all through the book on how to best fit a suit or pants on someone with an uneven body - like 99% of us out there. He explains how to even out a higher shoulder or a lower leg and make everything perfectly fitted. There's a wealth of information in his book that you'll find indispensable, complete with an excellent glossary of tailoring terms. There's also a fairly amusing back story on Abercrombie & Fitch that has to be read to be believed!
The used book store from England that I purchased my copy from sent me a signed copy from Mr. Anderson, which states,
"Respect and Regards,
Dress Well,
Richard".
I love this book!
April 2, 2014
I love to hear about the lives of real people doing their jobs, especially in professions that are glamorized or otherwise displayed as one-sided.
This book was an amazing peek behind the curtain of high quality bespoke suit making in London's famous Savile Row. It followed the life of Richard Anderson, from when he started as an apprentice cutter just out of high school (or "University", or whatever Brits call it), all the way through the build up of his own brand. You got to see a world steeped in tradition, the changing of guards, the gritty realness of the fashion industry, and, above it all, an obsession about making suits of the highest quality.
If you didn't want to own a bespoke suit before reading this book, I guarantee you will by the time you finish.
This book was an amazing peek behind the curtain of high quality bespoke suit making in London's famous Savile Row. It followed the life of Richard Anderson, from when he started as an apprentice cutter just out of high school (or "University", or whatever Brits call it), all the way through the build up of his own brand. You got to see a world steeped in tradition, the changing of guards, the gritty realness of the fashion industry, and, above it all, an obsession about making suits of the highest quality.
If you didn't want to own a bespoke suit before reading this book, I guarantee you will by the time you finish.
July 25, 2012
An entertaining and engaging read. Anderson gives an accessible insight into the world of bespoke clothing, specifically Savile Row's world, which (as it turns out) is not without its infighting, fame, larger-than-life personalities, and horror stories. I would have liked more details about the actual construction of a suit, but I suppose that to get that I would need to apprentice myself on Savile Row!
September 7, 2011
I enjoyed this book. The author is unpretentious when he could be. He makes you feel like you know him and could have lunch with him. I love a book that opens a whole new world to me and this one did. Who knew all that went into a bespoke suit. Who knew what 'bespoke' even meant!
December 27, 2024
I enjoyed it thoroughly as I too am a men's tailor/cutter. I identified with a lot of his experiences. A good raconteur type of book.
August 1, 2018
Great read if you’re interested in the tailoring industry through the years. Wonderful insights from one of the industries best.
Displaying 1 - 16 of 16 reviews