Dinner for Dickens. the Culinary History of Mrs Charles Dickens's Menu Books Including a Transcript of What Shall We Have for Dinner?' by Lady Maria Clutterbuck
In an attempt to rescue many fair friends from such domestic suffering' when faced with an onslaught of dinner guuests, Catherine Dickens wrote a pamphlet of suggested menus for meals and selected recipes. Dinner for Dickens publishes a transcript of the 1852 new edition' of the book along with additional recipes added to the 1854 edition. More an efficient household manager than a domestic goddess, Rossi-Wilcox looks at the life of Catherine Dickens, her household and culinary skills, the writing of What Shall We Have for Dinner?' under the rather grand pseudonym of Lady Maria Clutterbuck, set within the context of Victorian cookery and entertaining.
This is a fascinating book for anybody interested in Dickens and the Victorian era. It includes a transcript of the 1852 'new edition' of What Shall We Have for Dinner? by Catherine Dickens, but there is also a lot more here.
This includes detailed discussions of food fashions and evolving culinary practices around this period, as well as biographical material about Charles and Catherine Dickens, showing that there was a lot more to her than the 'shadowy' figure who often tends to be relegated to the background in Dickens biographies.
Author Susan M. Rossi-Wilcox looks at the Dickens household, their different homes and travel abroad, and at the eventual breakdown of the marriage. Some of this won't be new to people who have read a lot about Dickens, but the focus is different, with an emphasis on Catherine's role as an efficient manager of the household and her wide-ranging culinary interests.
The greater part of Catherine's original book is made up of menus, or "bills of fare" - starting off with simple menus for two or three people, and ending with highly elaborate menus for up to 20 people, including a long list of dishes. A typical menu for "six or seven persons" is: Boiled Mackerel/ Roast Leg of Welsh Mutton, Minced Collops, Spinach, Mashed and Brown Potatoes/Marmalade Tartlets, Macaroni. (Apparently the macaroni which finishes many meals was macaroni cheese, served as a savoury.)
The author discusses the different factors influencing the make-up of the menus, from traditional combinations, price and seasonal availability of ingredients (occasionally there are no vegetables included in winter menus) to avoiding waste by using up leftovers. She also looks at the various ingredients and how they were prepared in detail.
As with the biography of Catherine by Lillian Nayder, who provides the preface here, I was slightly disappointed that more extracts from Catherine's letters aren't included - it's mentioned that there are some at the Dickens Museum, so I would love to see them made available to readers in the future. However, there is lots to enjoy here and it's a book I will definitely go back to - though I don't think I'll try many of the recipes!