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156 pages, Paperback
First published August 6, 2009
“This book is not a scholarly study, a memoir, or a historical account of waitressing…it’s more than a coffee-table book of a pop culture icon.” About twenty years ago, after a night of waiting tables in a sushi restaurant in San Francisco, graduate student and part-time waitress Candacy Taylor asked herself an important question: How do waitresses in their sixties keep working and how do they feel about their jobs? These questions and more became the subject of Taylor’s graduate thesis. To find the answers, Taylor decided to meet these career waitresses, or “lifers” as they call themselves, where they worked—in diners and coffee shops across America. She traveled to forty-three cities and small towns and interviewed over fifty women. Not only did Taylor learn about the history of waitressing, but she learned that career waitresses defied the stereotypes portrayed in entertainment and other media. They are complex, often overlooked, and underestimated. They are icons of Americana. This book, Counter Culture: The American Coffee Shop Waitress published by Cornell University in 2009, is the surprising stories of those hard working women, career waitresses, who do more than just serve food.
Although Candacy Taylor’s book is a work of non-fiction, her story of the lives of career waitresses reads like a narrative. Taylor begins each chapter with an essay on a theme specific to waitressing or “lifers.” Some topics include relationships with regular customers, waitressing skills, tips, stigma, and facing retirement. Colorful photographs of waitresses highlight the chapters, making Taylor’s essays seem personal and realistic. She concludes each chapter with
profiles of the women in her book. These emotional and endearing profiles showcase how the women got started in their career, their insights, and their feelings about their jobs, from wearing uniforms, to aging, but most especially the joy they feel serving others.
Candacy Taylor focuses her lens on an aspect of waitressing that is seldom discussed—career waitresses and their life lessons. Often stigmatized, none of the waitresses in Counter Culture are apologetic. On the contrary, as Taylor points out, “most lifers have found their place in the industry and feel proud rather than ashamed of their profession.” In fact, she lets them, in their own words, explain to the reader what waitressing means to them and why they are happy to serve. Interestingly, as the stories of the career waitresses unfold through photographs and dialogue, the reader realizes that these women do not only serve food---they offer kindness, friendship, an inviting smile, a friendly ear, and their attention. They are, themselves, acts of selfless service.
Candacy Taylor’s book Counter Culture: The American Coffee Shop Waitress is a pleasant surprise and an easy ready. At first, I was tempted to just look at the photos rather than read the profiles of the career waitresses. But it is the stories of the “lifers” that make Taylor’s book engrossing. As I finished this book, I wondered if any of the “lifers” I read about were still alive and still serving. The industry is changing, and so are the waitresses. “It’s impossible to know what the future holds,” as Taylor reminds us, but “we should recognize and appreciate these women while they’re still here—catering to our quirks, delivering warm-ups, and serving comfort and companionship.” They are lifers. They are invisible heroes. For this, I give Taylor’s book 5 stars.