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Patterns of Fashion #4

Patterns of Fashion 4

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The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660 (Patterns of Fashion)

No one interested in the history of dress, from art historians to stage designers, from museum curators to teachers of fashion and costume, can function effectively without Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion series. Since her untimely death in 1998, admirers of her work have been waiting, with increasing impatience, for the promised volume devoted to the linen clothes of the Elizabethan and early Stuart periods, a companion to her previous volume on tailored clothes of the same era. Planned and partly prepared by Janet herself, and completed by Jenny Tiramani, Janet's last pupil, no other book exists that is dedicated to the linen clothes that covered the body from the skin outwards. It contains full colour portraits and photographs of details of garments in the explanatory section, as well as patterns for 86 items of linen clothing, which range from men's shirts and women's smocks, from superb ruffs and collars to boot hose and children's stomachers. Beautifully produced, it is an invaluable guide to both the history and the recreation of these wonderful garments. There are 178 black and white illustrations and photographs, 86 patterns and detail, 433 color photographs and well as the patterns and details.

128 pages, Paperback

First published December 9, 2008

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About the author

Janet Arnold

20 books62 followers
Janet Arnold (6 October 1932 – 2 November 1998) was a British clothing historian, costume designer, teacher, conservator, and author. She is best known for her series of works called Patterns of Fashion, which included accurate scale sewing patterns, used by museums and theatres alike. She went on to write A Handbook of Costume, a book on the primary sources on costume study, and Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd, as well as many other books.

Arnold was awarded the inaugural Sam Wanamaker Award in 1998. After her death, the Society of Antiquaries of London who had previously made her a fellow, created a grant in her name, as did The Costume Society, which she helped to found.

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Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews
Profile Image for The Itsy Bitsy.
83 reviews14 followers
September 4, 2009
The Patterns of Fashion series is pretty much the grail of historical costuming from the Renaissance onward and this last (sadly posthumously published) book in the series actually blows the preceding three away. The focus is primarily Western and Southern European linen undergarments and accessory pieces from the period surrounding and including the Elizabethan era which have managed to survive the intervening centuries. After a brief discussion of materials, items of focus, and practices, the first half of the book is devoted to detailed photographic presentations of extant pieces with brief descriptive commentaries and similar examples from contemporary portraiture. The second half of the book revisits each of the items detailed in the first half of the book but presents them as exploded technical drawings with detailed notes on cut, construction, and embellishment.

Since I got this book the week it came out I have been calling this "the crazymaking book" for all the incredible information it has shoved into my brain. There is so much information to digest that it has literally taken me the better part of a year to get through the whole thing. The photographic detail (in colour!) is incredible, the reference portraiture incredibly useful for mentally framing the items correctly, and the descriptions are concise and packed with information. I have learned staggering amounts of information about the materials, construction, and styles represented in this book.
Profile Image for Rebecca Huston.
1,063 reviews182 followers
August 21, 2010
Finally -- this is the one in the series that I have been looking forward to. Those into renaissance clothing need this one. And it is the best instructions for making ruffs that I have found yet.
Profile Image for M. Mangan.
33 reviews6 followers
March 23, 2021
This book is beautifully constructed, with great details about the clothing and historical context of the items. Accompanying paintings provide helpful visuals. The key feature, though, is the gridded detail about the pieces that permits the accurate reconstruction of the garments and accessories.

Also, as a lacemaker, I appreciate the lace details as well as the section on how to handle the starching of a ruff.

It functions as a reference book but also has practical applications and patterns. Very worthwhile.
Profile Image for aslbk.
17 reviews
September 15, 2024
Unlock the secrets of historical undergarments and accessories with Patterns of Fashion 4. Janet Arnold dives deep into the construction of linen shirts, smocks, ruffs, collars, and more, providing a wealth of knowledge and authentic patterns to bring these often-overlooked garments to life.
19 reviews
July 30, 2020
The bible for sewing or researching historical clothing. If this is an area of interest for you this book is a must have.
Profile Image for Sue.
1,698 reviews1 follower
August 5, 2015
I'll never look at their elaborate costumes the same. The rich people would commission fancy garments, then pose for their portraits. All done by hand, this is probably what the very rich were doing with their spare time. Just incredible, intricate workmanship.
Displaying 1 - 9 of 9 reviews

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