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Im Banne des Giganten: Der lange Weg zum Eiger
Es dauert ein paar Dutzend Seiten, bis der auf dem Cover erwähnte und abgelichtete Gigant allein namentlich auftaucht. Und dann bringt der Leser noch einmal einige Kapitel hinter sich, bis der Gigant auch physisch beziehungsweise der Autor bei ihm ist: beim schweizerischen Eiger, dessen Nordwand seit Generationen einen berühmt-berüchtigten Ruf genießt.
Allein diese textliche Gewichtung macht deutlich, dass es nicht nur um diese eine Besteigung geht. Der Untertitel des Buches, das die Sunday Times als "absoluten Klassiker der Bergliteratur" preist, lässt es ebenfalls erahnen. Er lautet: Der lange Weg zum Eiger. Doch damit keine falschen Eindrücke entstehen: Dieses Vorspiel ist alles andere als langweilig, vielmehr erlaubt es intensive Einblicke in das Leben und Denken des Extrembergsteigers Joe Simpson, der sich in seiner britischen Heimat längst den Beinamen "Serial Survivor" erworben hat. Zu dieser Ehre gelangte er, weil er bereits mehrere Male dem Tod respektive Abgrund ins Auge blickte, nachzulesen in seinem Bestseller Sturz ins Leere.
Das Angenehme an Simpsons Erzählungen: Er unterscheidet sich zu zahlreichen schreibenden Bergsteigerkollegen allein dadurch, dass er seine eigene Leistung nie überhöht darstellt. Im Gegenteil: Der Leser bekommt es mit einem selbstkritischen, zuweilen unsicheren und ängstlichen, kurzum sympathischen Menschen zu tun, der längst nicht nur von Glücksgefühlen schreibt, sobald er einen Eispickel in die Hand bekommt. Trauer spielt zum Beispiel eine Rolle, ganz besonders wenn sein Freund stirbt. Das passiert zwar beim Drachenfliegen, macht aber schlagartig wieder bewusst, dass sich Simpson und seine Freunde ständig an lebensbedrohlichen Grenzen bewegen. Warum solche das Leute tun und wie sie sich im Machtkampf mit der gewaltigen Natur fühlen, zeigt Simpson überdeutlich auf. Mit dieser feinfühligen Analyse wird Simpson all jene begeistern, die auch diesen Drang verspüren, die eigenen Grenzen zu testen. --Christian Haas
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First published March 26, 2002
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About the author
Joe Simpson
40 books221 followers Joe Simpson is the author of the bestselling Touching the Void, as well as four subsequent non-fiction books published by The Mountaineers Books: This Game of Ghosts, Storms of Silence, Dark Shadows Falling, and The Beckoning Silence. The Beckoning Silence won the 2003 National Outdoor Book Award. The other three published by The Mountaineers Books were all shortlisted for the Boardman Tasker Award.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 118 reviews
August 16, 2010
I’m constantly (and morbidly) fascinated with stories of the amazing triumphs and horrific despair of mountaineering. Death comes so readily it seems, but the love of the mountains, the rush of adrenaline, and the battle itself bring these cliff-hangers and ice-climbers back time and again. It seems to be, quite like drugs or plastic surgery, an addiction that always drags you back for one more self-defining round.
I’ve read of Joe Simpson’s harrowing tales in other books- his survival is quite miraculous after all the too-close-for-comfort moments he’s experienced in his lifelong stint as a professional mountaineer. After scaling menacing ice and rock, breaking bones, coming close to death, and losing too many dear friends, it’s no surprise that Simpson has psychological demons that match his physical scars. As many people do, Simpson contemplates the meaning of his existence, his ultimate death, and the seemingly irrepressible need for the mountainous embrace that has nearly killed him so many times.
In this book, Simpson expertly describes his search for meaning beyond the quests, losses, and philosophical realizations that have defined his life- and the lives of others. With terrifying and poignant personal anecdotes, Simpson stares death in the face and asks the questions that we all silently contemplate all too close to subconsciously.
I’ve read of Joe Simpson’s harrowing tales in other books- his survival is quite miraculous after all the too-close-for-comfort moments he’s experienced in his lifelong stint as a professional mountaineer. After scaling menacing ice and rock, breaking bones, coming close to death, and losing too many dear friends, it’s no surprise that Simpson has psychological demons that match his physical scars. As many people do, Simpson contemplates the meaning of his existence, his ultimate death, and the seemingly irrepressible need for the mountainous embrace that has nearly killed him so many times.
In this book, Simpson expertly describes his search for meaning beyond the quests, losses, and philosophical realizations that have defined his life- and the lives of others. With terrifying and poignant personal anecdotes, Simpson stares death in the face and asks the questions that we all silently contemplate all too close to subconsciously.
November 18, 2022
Sentí un escalofrío cuando el pie derecho me patinó al separarse el hielo de la roca, pero por suerte se detuvo. Respiré hondo y volví a subir el pie, metiendo la punta de mi crampón en una grietecilla de la roca. Luego, haciendo equilibrios sobre ella, me estiré para clavar el piolet un poquito más arriba, donde el hielo apenas era una pizca más grueso. Cuando cargué mi peso, el hielo se arqueó al separarse de la roca, y se produjo un chasquido seguido de silencio. Contuve la respiración y tiré, con tiento, del mango del piolet.
(…)
El hielo que sujetaba su pie izquierdo se desintegró y sonó un chasquido. Tat resbaló. Tragué saliva, asustado, y me dispuse a detener la caída. Se frenó él sólo y, con toda la calma del mundo, volvió a clavar el crampón izquierdo un poco más arriba.
(…)
Una caída nos mataría a ambos. Yo me estaba poniendo de los nervios. «Esto es chungo. Chungo de verdad». A pesar de ello, no hacía nada. Miraba alelado cómo se movía Tat, casi sin atreverme a respirar, suplicando que las puntas de sus crampones y piolets agarraran bien.
(…)
Otra parte de mí quería gritarle que lo dejara. «¿Qué mierda es ésta? No es cuestión de no pasar por el bochorno de abandonar. Tat se está equivocando y a ti te importa más tu precioso ego que tu propia vida. Somos amigos, por el amor de Dios. No hemos venido a jugar a héroes. Díselo. No te lo echará en cara». Seguí callado.
(..)
—¡Tat! —no me hizo caso—. ¡Tat! —repetí enfadado—. Basta. No te doy más cuerda hasta que metas un buen seguro.
No dijo nada, pero por el movimiento de su cabeza pude deducir que el ultimátum no le hacía gracia. Se volvió a girar hacia el techo e intentó meter de nuevo el fisurero. Cuando tiró de él se salió. Una lluvia de cristales de hielo le cayó sobre los hombros. Miré hacia arriba y vi que una fina lluvia de partículas de hielo invadía el aire.
(…)
—El hielo está en un estado lamentable, Tat. Chorrea agua, ¡por el amor de Dios! —miró por encima de su hombro en mi dirección—. Joder —espeté, ya cabreado—. Si te caes, palmamos. Así de sencillo.
—No me voy a caer, colega.
—No quiero morir.
—No me voy a caer…
(…)
—Menudo largo te has marcado —dije.
—La capa de hielo era muy fina.
—El fisurero que metiste se salió —solté de golpe.
—Me lo esperaba —dijo Tat, sonriente.
—Pensé que te ibas a caer, ¿sabes?
—Poco me faltó —concedió—, pero los piolets y los crampones parecían morder bien. Has subido muy deprisa.
—Rebosar adrenalina ayuda —le espeté—. También llevar la cuerda por arriba. Creo que no deberíamos haberlo hecho. Hemos estado a punto de matarnos.
Le lancé una mirada dura, y se puso serio de pronto.
—Quizá —parecía estar a la defensiva, como si reconociera que nos habíamos pasado.
—Pensé que estabas harto de estos riesgos. Dijiste que no merecía la pena matarse.
—Nunca lo ha merecido —y se encogió de hombros sin poder reprimir una sonrisa—, pero no estamos muertos, y lo hemos hecho, así que ¿dónde está el problema? Venga, vamos a terminarla.
Joe Simpson vivía para la escalada. En los Andes estuvo a punto de morir (recogido en su libro Tocando el vacío, también filmado en formato documental), pero tras recuperarse de sus múltiples heridas, siguió escalando. Finalmente, reflexionó sobre el sinsentido de la escalada extrema, sobre el sinsentido de exponerse a la muerte una y otra vez por unos instantes de descarga de adrenalina. Y decidió dejarlo para siempre... ¿o no? ¿La pasión de una vida o la razón? ¿Puede la experiencia y la madurez de los años vencer a la extraña sensación que produce la belleza de la alta montaña y el extraño encanto de la escalada?
Las montañas tocan el alma. Despiertan una intensa sensación de espiritualidad y nos hacen conscientes de nuestra propia temporalidad, de lo mortalmente frágiles que somos, del lugar insignificante que ocupamos en el universo. Provocan una adicción evocadora y etérea a la que no puedo resistirme. Son una contradicción fascinante y exasperante. Escalar rara vez tiene lógica, pero casi siempre produce buenas sensaciones.
En este libro, en parte también una pequeña biografía de Joe Simpson, reflexiona sobre todo ello. Cuando parece que finalmente decide dejarlo, decide, no obstante, hacerlo tras haber realizado algunas escaladas clásicas que aún tiene pendientes. La cara norte del Eiger es una de ellas. La pared asesina, el clásico de los clásicos; no es la montaña más alta, ni la más bella, ni quizás tampoco la más difícil técnicamente... pero el Eiger es un icono del alpinismo, y también, aún hoy, una de las ascensiones más peligrosas.
No me ha parecido un gran libro. Sinceramente, tras un espectacular comienzo (de donde he extraído gran parte de los fragmentos del comienzo de esta reseña), después decae considerablemente en su parte central, donde Simpson se extiende quizás demasiado con sus reflexiones e indecisiones sobre dejarlo o no, para remontar de nuevo en la parte final con los relatos históricos de la conquista del Eiger, primero, y el intento del propio Joe con su compañero Ray. El resultado es un libro sorprendentemente bien escrito (desde Tocando el vacío, Joe Simpson empezó una segunda carrera como escritor, y se nota la experiencia) pero muy alejado de la emoción de aquel primer relato. Sin embargo, es un relato sincero y, a ratos, emotivo. No, no es un gran libro, pero me ha gustado bastante.
—Todavía me gustaría subirlo —replicó Ray, como esperando una respuesta mía—. He disfrutado allá arriba. Quiero volver. ¿Qué opinas? ¿El invierno que viene? ¿El próximo verano?
—Sí, tal vez —dije, sin mucho convencimiento—. No estoy seguro de lo que pienso ahora mismo. No quiero morir en ese hijo de puta —rematé con vehemencia—. Y ya lo dije en el Chaupi Orco después del alud. Lo dije después de Alea jacta est con Tat. Lo dije tras el Siula Grande y el Pachermo. Lo he dicho muchas veces. Y un día sucederá. Quizá deba escucharme a mí mismo. Estoy cansado de todo esto… de este asunto de la muerte…
(...)
El irresistible sonido de las alturas envuelve las montañas. Es un canto de sirenas que me atrae contra mi voluntad. Supe entonces que Ray tenía razón y que las imágenes de esa película se desvanecerían con el tiempo. No así el recuerdo de esos dos jóvenes. Regresaríamos en verano a intentarlo de nuevo y pensaríamos en ellos continuamente. Si triunfábamos, nos alejaríamos por fin de las montañas, o tal vez nos acercáramos hasta Bregalia a echar un vistazo a la cara norte del Piz Badile. Sólo un vistazo, en serio, nada más.
(…)
El hielo que sujetaba su pie izquierdo se desintegró y sonó un chasquido. Tat resbaló. Tragué saliva, asustado, y me dispuse a detener la caída. Se frenó él sólo y, con toda la calma del mundo, volvió a clavar el crampón izquierdo un poco más arriba.
(…)
Una caída nos mataría a ambos. Yo me estaba poniendo de los nervios. «Esto es chungo. Chungo de verdad». A pesar de ello, no hacía nada. Miraba alelado cómo se movía Tat, casi sin atreverme a respirar, suplicando que las puntas de sus crampones y piolets agarraran bien.
(…)
Otra parte de mí quería gritarle que lo dejara. «¿Qué mierda es ésta? No es cuestión de no pasar por el bochorno de abandonar. Tat se está equivocando y a ti te importa más tu precioso ego que tu propia vida. Somos amigos, por el amor de Dios. No hemos venido a jugar a héroes. Díselo. No te lo echará en cara». Seguí callado.
(..)
—¡Tat! —no me hizo caso—. ¡Tat! —repetí enfadado—. Basta. No te doy más cuerda hasta que metas un buen seguro.
No dijo nada, pero por el movimiento de su cabeza pude deducir que el ultimátum no le hacía gracia. Se volvió a girar hacia el techo e intentó meter de nuevo el fisurero. Cuando tiró de él se salió. Una lluvia de cristales de hielo le cayó sobre los hombros. Miré hacia arriba y vi que una fina lluvia de partículas de hielo invadía el aire.
(…)
—El hielo está en un estado lamentable, Tat. Chorrea agua, ¡por el amor de Dios! —miró por encima de su hombro en mi dirección—. Joder —espeté, ya cabreado—. Si te caes, palmamos. Así de sencillo.
—No me voy a caer, colega.
—No quiero morir.
—No me voy a caer…
(…)
—Menudo largo te has marcado —dije.
—La capa de hielo era muy fina.
—El fisurero que metiste se salió —solté de golpe.
—Me lo esperaba —dijo Tat, sonriente.
—Pensé que te ibas a caer, ¿sabes?
—Poco me faltó —concedió—, pero los piolets y los crampones parecían morder bien. Has subido muy deprisa.
—Rebosar adrenalina ayuda —le espeté—. También llevar la cuerda por arriba. Creo que no deberíamos haberlo hecho. Hemos estado a punto de matarnos.
Le lancé una mirada dura, y se puso serio de pronto.
—Quizá —parecía estar a la defensiva, como si reconociera que nos habíamos pasado.
—Pensé que estabas harto de estos riesgos. Dijiste que no merecía la pena matarse.
—Nunca lo ha merecido —y se encogió de hombros sin poder reprimir una sonrisa—, pero no estamos muertos, y lo hemos hecho, así que ¿dónde está el problema? Venga, vamos a terminarla.
Joe Simpson vivía para la escalada. En los Andes estuvo a punto de morir (recogido en su libro Tocando el vacío, también filmado en formato documental), pero tras recuperarse de sus múltiples heridas, siguió escalando. Finalmente, reflexionó sobre el sinsentido de la escalada extrema, sobre el sinsentido de exponerse a la muerte una y otra vez por unos instantes de descarga de adrenalina. Y decidió dejarlo para siempre... ¿o no? ¿La pasión de una vida o la razón? ¿Puede la experiencia y la madurez de los años vencer a la extraña sensación que produce la belleza de la alta montaña y el extraño encanto de la escalada?
Las montañas tocan el alma. Despiertan una intensa sensación de espiritualidad y nos hacen conscientes de nuestra propia temporalidad, de lo mortalmente frágiles que somos, del lugar insignificante que ocupamos en el universo. Provocan una adicción evocadora y etérea a la que no puedo resistirme. Son una contradicción fascinante y exasperante. Escalar rara vez tiene lógica, pero casi siempre produce buenas sensaciones.
En este libro, en parte también una pequeña biografía de Joe Simpson, reflexiona sobre todo ello. Cuando parece que finalmente decide dejarlo, decide, no obstante, hacerlo tras haber realizado algunas escaladas clásicas que aún tiene pendientes. La cara norte del Eiger es una de ellas. La pared asesina, el clásico de los clásicos; no es la montaña más alta, ni la más bella, ni quizás tampoco la más difícil técnicamente... pero el Eiger es un icono del alpinismo, y también, aún hoy, una de las ascensiones más peligrosas.
No me ha parecido un gran libro. Sinceramente, tras un espectacular comienzo (de donde he extraído gran parte de los fragmentos del comienzo de esta reseña), después decae considerablemente en su parte central, donde Simpson se extiende quizás demasiado con sus reflexiones e indecisiones sobre dejarlo o no, para remontar de nuevo en la parte final con los relatos históricos de la conquista del Eiger, primero, y el intento del propio Joe con su compañero Ray. El resultado es un libro sorprendentemente bien escrito (desde Tocando el vacío, Joe Simpson empezó una segunda carrera como escritor, y se nota la experiencia) pero muy alejado de la emoción de aquel primer relato. Sin embargo, es un relato sincero y, a ratos, emotivo. No, no es un gran libro, pero me ha gustado bastante.
—Todavía me gustaría subirlo —replicó Ray, como esperando una respuesta mía—. He disfrutado allá arriba. Quiero volver. ¿Qué opinas? ¿El invierno que viene? ¿El próximo verano?
—Sí, tal vez —dije, sin mucho convencimiento—. No estoy seguro de lo que pienso ahora mismo. No quiero morir en ese hijo de puta —rematé con vehemencia—. Y ya lo dije en el Chaupi Orco después del alud. Lo dije después de Alea jacta est con Tat. Lo dije tras el Siula Grande y el Pachermo. Lo he dicho muchas veces. Y un día sucederá. Quizá deba escucharme a mí mismo. Estoy cansado de todo esto… de este asunto de la muerte…
(...)
El irresistible sonido de las alturas envuelve las montañas. Es un canto de sirenas que me atrae contra mi voluntad. Supe entonces que Ray tenía razón y que las imágenes de esa película se desvanecerían con el tiempo. No así el recuerdo de esos dos jóvenes. Regresaríamos en verano a intentarlo de nuevo y pensaríamos en ellos continuamente. Si triunfábamos, nos alejaríamos por fin de las montañas, o tal vez nos acercáramos hasta Bregalia a echar un vistazo a la cara norte del Piz Badile. Sólo un vistazo, en serio, nada más.
November 20, 2013
This is a good book. I'm not disputing that. It's well written, fast-paced and it's got and dramatic conclusion on the North face of the Eiger. But at the same time, I can't quite like it, mainly because I think Joe Simpson is the kind of person I will never be able to understand and so never get on with.
I haven't read Touching the Void, but I loosely know the story, and apparently this book treads different ground in that it's a lot more philosophical, questioning why people climb mountains and investigating the impact of death on those around them. Simpson is this book is questioning his own mortality, and his increasing fear of death and whether he wants to give up climbing. This then results in a kind of bucket list of last climbs, the Eiger being one of them. However, when people die, and they do die, he then almost lists their names, how they killed and then moves on. It's almost like he wants to talk about it, but then can't be bothered to dwell on it cos it would ruin his own experience.
This, fundamentally, is what I came to not like about Simpson from this book. There's almost a complete lack of self-awareness of anything outside himself and his obsessions. Family and friends get left by the wayside - his mother dies and his family have to delay the funeral as he hasn't told anyone where he is; a close friend gets killed in a paragliding accident, but pages later Simpson is up in the air talking about how much of a rush the experience is - and when he calls himself selfish, you really can't help but agree with him.
Throughout the book, Simpson recounts the stories of other climbers who were all successful and skillful until their unexpected deaths. These details I did find really interesting, especially the often tragic stories of those climbers in the 1920s and 30s who attempted the Eiger with only rudimentary climbing equipment. Some of the stories I hadn't heard before and the accompanying pictures (many in black and white) were fascinating to look at. Again though, I ended up annoyed by the way in which Simpson almost invaded these stories. When climbing the Eiger, every move that Simpson and his climbing partner Ray make is accompanied by a detailed monologue on how what they're doing is the same or different from previous climbers. When they bivouac close to where the rescue attempt on Toni Kurz's party failed, Simpson has to point out exact points of group's attempt to reach safety, essentially stating that he would never attempt such bold moves. Everything the historical climbers did, Simpson almost has to mimic until his ascent of the Eiger almost disappears, blending into the accounts that he has previously told.
This merging of Simpson with other climbers was accompanied in this book by a huge amount of self-congratulation which came to be a little irritating. Early in the book, Simpson announces that he is in awe of fellow mountaineers and wants to find his place among them beyond his fall at Siula Grande, but if he wants other people to move past it, then he's going to have to shift first. After being made aware of an article in which fellow climbers attempted a different route along the mountain but turned back, Simpson seems almost gleeful that they failed and he hadn't - despite that they all returned unharmed. When Simpson actually meets one of his heroes, Anderl Heckmair, who successfully climbed the North face, at the foot of the Eiger Simpson seems less interested in recounting the hour-long conversation they had about the mountain and more interested in talking about how Heckmair had recognised his name from his account of his Siula Grande experience.
I appreciate that Simpson is a good climber and that a lot of his exploits have been very interesting, but his constant focus on himself and his achievements over those of the people around him who he claims to admire just bugged me.
By the end of the book, Simpson has attempted the Eiger and been driven back by bad weather. Two other climbers have fallen on that very day. According to his thoughts on death and the mountain, this should mean that this is his last climbing hurrah - a grand send-off, even if not a successful one. but you finish this book knowing that Simpson isn't giving up climbing. He's too busy berating himself for turning around and heading back down after the storm and the deaths and weighing up when he can make his next attempt on the North face. A quick search of wikipedia afterwards told me that he attempted climbing the Eiger a further 5 times after this account, making a lie out of everything previously written in the book. This isn't about a last swan song. This book is about one man facing death and deciding that he doesn't care as long as he reaches his goals. It makes for an interesting read, but ultimately a pointless one.
An interesting book with a fast-pace and some excitement, but really I could've done without the endless discussions about death and fear if nothing was going to come of them in the end. 3 stars.
I haven't read Touching the Void, but I loosely know the story, and apparently this book treads different ground in that it's a lot more philosophical, questioning why people climb mountains and investigating the impact of death on those around them. Simpson is this book is questioning his own mortality, and his increasing fear of death and whether he wants to give up climbing. This then results in a kind of bucket list of last climbs, the Eiger being one of them. However, when people die, and they do die, he then almost lists their names, how they killed and then moves on. It's almost like he wants to talk about it, but then can't be bothered to dwell on it cos it would ruin his own experience.
This, fundamentally, is what I came to not like about Simpson from this book. There's almost a complete lack of self-awareness of anything outside himself and his obsessions. Family and friends get left by the wayside - his mother dies and his family have to delay the funeral as he hasn't told anyone where he is; a close friend gets killed in a paragliding accident, but pages later Simpson is up in the air talking about how much of a rush the experience is - and when he calls himself selfish, you really can't help but agree with him.
Throughout the book, Simpson recounts the stories of other climbers who were all successful and skillful until their unexpected deaths. These details I did find really interesting, especially the often tragic stories of those climbers in the 1920s and 30s who attempted the Eiger with only rudimentary climbing equipment. Some of the stories I hadn't heard before and the accompanying pictures (many in black and white) were fascinating to look at. Again though, I ended up annoyed by the way in which Simpson almost invaded these stories. When climbing the Eiger, every move that Simpson and his climbing partner Ray make is accompanied by a detailed monologue on how what they're doing is the same or different from previous climbers. When they bivouac close to where the rescue attempt on Toni Kurz's party failed, Simpson has to point out exact points of group's attempt to reach safety, essentially stating that he would never attempt such bold moves. Everything the historical climbers did, Simpson almost has to mimic until his ascent of the Eiger almost disappears, blending into the accounts that he has previously told.
This merging of Simpson with other climbers was accompanied in this book by a huge amount of self-congratulation which came to be a little irritating. Early in the book, Simpson announces that he is in awe of fellow mountaineers and wants to find his place among them beyond his fall at Siula Grande, but if he wants other people to move past it, then he's going to have to shift first. After being made aware of an article in which fellow climbers attempted a different route along the mountain but turned back, Simpson seems almost gleeful that they failed and he hadn't - despite that they all returned unharmed. When Simpson actually meets one of his heroes, Anderl Heckmair, who successfully climbed the North face, at the foot of the Eiger Simpson seems less interested in recounting the hour-long conversation they had about the mountain and more interested in talking about how Heckmair had recognised his name from his account of his Siula Grande experience.
I appreciate that Simpson is a good climber and that a lot of his exploits have been very interesting, but his constant focus on himself and his achievements over those of the people around him who he claims to admire just bugged me.
By the end of the book, Simpson has attempted the Eiger and been driven back by bad weather. Two other climbers have fallen on that very day. According to his thoughts on death and the mountain, this should mean that this is his last climbing hurrah - a grand send-off, even if not a successful one. but you finish this book knowing that Simpson isn't giving up climbing. He's too busy berating himself for turning around and heading back down after the storm and the deaths and weighing up when he can make his next attempt on the North face. A quick search of wikipedia afterwards told me that he attempted climbing the Eiger a further 5 times after this account, making a lie out of everything previously written in the book. This isn't about a last swan song. This book is about one man facing death and deciding that he doesn't care as long as he reaches his goals. It makes for an interesting read, but ultimately a pointless one.
An interesting book with a fast-pace and some excitement, but really I could've done without the endless discussions about death and fear if nothing was going to come of them in the end. 3 stars.
November 22, 2025
La casa de mis padres era un primero y cuando subía a la de mi vecino del cuarto y me acercaba a la barandilla del balcón (asomarme estaba descartado) no podía evitar admirar el aplomo de ese niño que vivía coqueteando con la muerte a diario. Luego me compré un piso en un primero. No diría que vértigo, pero siempre me ha dado muy mal rollo ese vacío por debajo de ti, presentir ese movimiento chorras (mejor no mover una ceja) que hará que te precipites hacia él de forma inevitable. Vale, supongo que a eso se le llama tener vértigo. Y supongo que para mí leer libros de alpinismo es el equivalente a darle un tratado de herpetología a alguien que le tiene fobia a las serpientes. El caso es que las historias que me encuentro en ellos me emocionan y horrorizan a partes iguales.
Parafraseando al Fary, después de leer a Joe Simpson o a Jon Krakauer, todo lo demás te parecerá blandengue.
PD: "La llamada del silencio" es la edición española de este libro, no sé por qué goodreads la ha colocado separada como si fuese otro distinto.
Parafraseando al Fary, después de leer a Joe Simpson o a Jon Krakauer, todo lo demás te parecerá blandengue.
PD: "La llamada del silencio" es la edición española de este libro, no sé por qué goodreads la ha colocado separada como si fuese otro distinto.
April 19, 2015
This is the story of Joe Simpson creeping doubts about the wisdom of keeping on climbing - too many funerals of friends lost in accidents begin to take their toll on his confidence and love of climbing. He examines these feelings and explores the reasons behind his own and others love of the sport. Before he gives it all up he is talked into doing a few last climbs, the old what ifs you don't want to leave undone. The main focus of the end of the book is his attempt on the North face of the Eiger, a route he and his friend Ray Delaney had always wanted to do.
The first 60% of the book felt too episodic, more like a series of short magazine articles than cohesive book chapters (this impression was strengthened by the non sequential nature of some of the narrative (i.e. occasional sections related to events earlier in the author life than the preceding sections). These chapters are intended to provide the material which reveal how Simpsons attitude to climbing is changed by time and tragic events. Sadly these chapters feel too piecemeal and although each is well written, they don't hang together as well as they should.
The final few chapters relating to the Eiger attempt were gripping and the revelation of the tragedy that occurred and its impact on various people involved (some closely some at a distance) was poignant There is an additional potential tragedy shrouded in mystery; The question of the fate of the solo climber which remains unanswered here.
I understand Joe and Ray have made further (unsuccessful) attempts on the North face, perhaps those should have been added to the story of their first attempt to make a more focussed book - who knows maybe they will get to the summit and revisit the story of the whole enterprise or maybe Joe will decide that the odds are stacked against and he doesn't wish to become another tragic statistic (that was the back-story to this book with the Eiger as one of those unfinished dreams to do before jacking it all in).
The first 60% of the book felt too episodic, more like a series of short magazine articles than cohesive book chapters (this impression was strengthened by the non sequential nature of some of the narrative (i.e. occasional sections related to events earlier in the author life than the preceding sections). These chapters are intended to provide the material which reveal how Simpsons attitude to climbing is changed by time and tragic events. Sadly these chapters feel too piecemeal and although each is well written, they don't hang together as well as they should.
The final few chapters relating to the Eiger attempt were gripping and the revelation of the tragedy that occurred and its impact on various people involved (some closely some at a distance) was poignant There is an additional potential tragedy shrouded in mystery; The question of the fate of the solo climber which remains unanswered here.
I understand Joe and Ray have made further (unsuccessful) attempts on the North face, perhaps those should have been added to the story of their first attempt to make a more focussed book - who knows maybe they will get to the summit and revisit the story of the whole enterprise or maybe Joe will decide that the odds are stacked against and he doesn't wish to become another tragic statistic (that was the back-story to this book with the Eiger as one of those unfinished dreams to do before jacking it all in).
March 8, 2017
This is not a gripping survival tale like Touching the Void. Rather it is a somewhat loosely structured autobiography on Joe Simpson's mountaineering life, centered around the period when he is about to "give up" climbing altogether.
There are brilliant passages. The few pages on the sublime perfection felt after climbing the Bridalveil Falls in Colorado is lovely, a small compact jewel that comes close to conveying the unconveyable. The description of the Eiger storm is fantastic. One can almost feel the rocks and avalanches and waterfalls falling around oneself.
The rest of the book, however, suffers from too much repetition and longwindedness. Time after time I come across an expository paragraph and wonder, "Hasn't this point already been made five times over in the preceding pages? Why is he talking about it again?" The book feels like it can be trimmed by 50% and vastly improved.
There are brilliant passages. The few pages on the sublime perfection felt after climbing the Bridalveil Falls in Colorado is lovely, a small compact jewel that comes close to conveying the unconveyable. The description of the Eiger storm is fantastic. One can almost feel the rocks and avalanches and waterfalls falling around oneself.
The rest of the book, however, suffers from too much repetition and longwindedness. Time after time I come across an expository paragraph and wonder, "Hasn't this point already been made five times over in the preceding pages? Why is he talking about it again?" The book feels like it can be trimmed by 50% and vastly improved.
February 18, 2022
Since watching films such as Touching the Void and Free Solo last year, I've become kindaaa hyper fixated on watching anything to do with climbing and mountaineering, so I thought, why don't I give reading about it a shot? Without the visual references, a very different experience. As a non-climber, there's a lot of jargon I'm unfamiliar with, so I had to stop and google things regularly (halfway through, I even stopped to watch The Beckoning Silence film), but once I got into the swing of the book, I enjoyed. Joe tells a very emotional and touching story of his relationship with climbing and the painful losses of climbing friends.
September 25, 2012
A great book for climbers, many of the thoughts and ideas that Joe Simpson shares are mirroring my own convictions about fear, death, dreams and life in general. He just found the words to describe those things in a clear and distinctive way. I'm recommending this book to everyone who wants to understand me and my "selfish" inclination for the Mountain.
April 6, 2015
I read this after reading Touching the Void earlier this year and being completely blown away by it, and decided to read more books about climbing because something about it seems to resonate with me even though I'm not a climber myself and I don't even know anybody who is!
This book was an interesting combination of Joe talking about various different experiences while climbing, some personal experiences from his own life, and also accounts of earlier climbers who attempted the north face of the Eiger, which all built up to Joe's decision on whether to climb the face, and also his feelings about climbing and whether to continue. At times it was almost a little strange to read about such personal feelings- almost like reading somebody's diary that would usually be private, but I admire Joe's honesty and the combination of both a pragmatic attitude to climbing mistakes, paired with some beautiful descriptions of the emotions evoked by climbing- of which I think Joe's description of being caught in a storm on the south face of Les Drus was one of the most stunning.
This book, and others like it, raise all sorts of interesting questions- such as how to balance the desire to do something potentially life threatening with the fact that family and friends want you to be safe, along with weirdness of sometimes feeling most alive when close to death, which Joe mentions on a few occasions. I think this is one of the reasons I enjoyed this book so much- because human emotions seem to make so much more sense in these more extreme environments, and you can see that in many ways we're designed for coping with the immediate risk and dangers that activities like climbing throw at us, whereas in the "real world" everything is so drawn out, anxiety goes on for hours, days, weeks, months over risks that aren't life and death they are just ongoing worries. It is uplifting and life affirming to read about emotions in such a different environment- the powerful descriptions of ecstatic joy at achieving a goal tinged with sadness when it is over, the fear and awe and respect for the mountains, the enjoyment and absorption in the climbing.
I guess this book might not be for you if you prefer one long "story" rather than a collection of different experiences, but for me (perhaps because I have a background in psychology!) reading about Joe's feelings towards climbing and whether or not it is worth the risks was a really rewarding experience and I think that for anyone who is troubled with asking what life is for or why we are here I feel like the answer is hidden inside books like this, and inside people who follow their dreams to the very end.
This book was an interesting combination of Joe talking about various different experiences while climbing, some personal experiences from his own life, and also accounts of earlier climbers who attempted the north face of the Eiger, which all built up to Joe's decision on whether to climb the face, and also his feelings about climbing and whether to continue. At times it was almost a little strange to read about such personal feelings- almost like reading somebody's diary that would usually be private, but I admire Joe's honesty and the combination of both a pragmatic attitude to climbing mistakes, paired with some beautiful descriptions of the emotions evoked by climbing- of which I think Joe's description of being caught in a storm on the south face of Les Drus was one of the most stunning.
This book, and others like it, raise all sorts of interesting questions- such as how to balance the desire to do something potentially life threatening with the fact that family and friends want you to be safe, along with weirdness of sometimes feeling most alive when close to death, which Joe mentions on a few occasions. I think this is one of the reasons I enjoyed this book so much- because human emotions seem to make so much more sense in these more extreme environments, and you can see that in many ways we're designed for coping with the immediate risk and dangers that activities like climbing throw at us, whereas in the "real world" everything is so drawn out, anxiety goes on for hours, days, weeks, months over risks that aren't life and death they are just ongoing worries. It is uplifting and life affirming to read about emotions in such a different environment- the powerful descriptions of ecstatic joy at achieving a goal tinged with sadness when it is over, the fear and awe and respect for the mountains, the enjoyment and absorption in the climbing.
I guess this book might not be for you if you prefer one long "story" rather than a collection of different experiences, but for me (perhaps because I have a background in psychology!) reading about Joe's feelings towards climbing and whether or not it is worth the risks was a really rewarding experience and I think that for anyone who is troubled with asking what life is for or why we are here I feel like the answer is hidden inside books like this, and inside people who follow their dreams to the very end.
April 20, 2014
I am a fan of Simpson's writing and very much enjoyed "Touching the Void" for both it's writing and the story itself and this has obviously given him some notoriety and admiration in the mountaineering community, and deservedly so.
This is a very good read too, although I did take a while to get into the main part of the story which is the author's attempt to climb the Eiger North Face and being peripherally involved in another tragedy on that infamous climb. This is the best part of the book by far in my opinion; atmospheric, gripping and real (as is typical of Simpson's best writing).
However I felt the early part of the book was a little too disjointed. It was interesting in itself, and built up the impact of repeated tragedies on the mountaineering community, but I never really saw where that was going. I guess it was setting the scene for the Eiger, which was seen as the last challenge by JS and his climbing partner and their determination to achieve it does come through. There is a sojourn into Simpson's move into flying as well which is also interesting but seems a bit of an aside.
That is a quibble though. Writing about difficult, life threatening climbs is gripping stuff when done well. There is no way those of us who don't partake can ever truly understand, but it is fascinating to look into that world, especially when it is as well articulated as is done here.
This is a very good read too, although I did take a while to get into the main part of the story which is the author's attempt to climb the Eiger North Face and being peripherally involved in another tragedy on that infamous climb. This is the best part of the book by far in my opinion; atmospheric, gripping and real (as is typical of Simpson's best writing).
However I felt the early part of the book was a little too disjointed. It was interesting in itself, and built up the impact of repeated tragedies on the mountaineering community, but I never really saw where that was going. I guess it was setting the scene for the Eiger, which was seen as the last challenge by JS and his climbing partner and their determination to achieve it does come through. There is a sojourn into Simpson's move into flying as well which is also interesting but seems a bit of an aside.
That is a quibble though. Writing about difficult, life threatening climbs is gripping stuff when done well. There is no way those of us who don't partake can ever truly understand, but it is fascinating to look into that world, especially when it is as well articulated as is done here.
November 23, 2016
Enjoyable read but I did get frustrated at the level of irrelevant detail in his retelling of events. I also felt it sort of finished a bit unfinished. We never find out if he and Ray go back to the Eiger together and finish what they started, which was a bit annoying. However, I liked the glimpse he gave into the climbing fraternity and his honesty about the growing fear he felt as he got older.
August 5, 2017
a differenza di quel trombone di Messner, Simpson è proprio molto simpatico e autoironico. Scorrevole e brillante, mi sta piacendo parecchio.
Devo vederla di persona la nord dell'Eiger. Da sotto, tranquilli!
Devo vederla di persona la nord dell'Eiger. Da sotto, tranquilli!
September 26, 2023
Great book well written, intense and educational about the Eiger
March 28, 2023
Series of enthralling tales and adventure. Captivating
May 9, 2016
There were passages in *The Beckoning Silence* that were exquisite and poetic. Simpson brings us into his inner world, and allows us to share in the feelings and thoughts of a mountaineer nearing the end of his career. By the end of the book I think every reader can understand why Joe Simpson would consider retiring from climbing. My 97 year-old dad (Dee Molenaar, a veteran of several mountaineering expeditions) recently remarked: "I'm glad I did the climbing I did. I'm also glad I don't have to, anymore." I think Joe Simpson would be able to relate to my dad's remark.
There is no doubt that Joe Simpson is a master of his craft - a wonderful writer and story-teller.
But to be honest, *The Beckoning Silence* didn't have the same intensity and urgency that I felt in Simpson's *Touching the Void*. It had long passages of dialogue which affected the pacing, and, for me, were distracting. I kept wondering stuff like - how can he remember the exact words from this dialogue? Was he taping it or something? And then, wondering about this, my thoughts would go off on a side trip and I'd start thinking about how weird it sometimes is to be a writer. I can imagine as Simpson was writing this book, that he might have often found himself in the weird position of being his own observer - taking note of how he reacts even as he's reacting.
Although *Touching the Void* is still my favorite Simpson read, I liked this book very much.
There is no doubt that Joe Simpson is a master of his craft - a wonderful writer and story-teller.
But to be honest, *The Beckoning Silence* didn't have the same intensity and urgency that I felt in Simpson's *Touching the Void*. It had long passages of dialogue which affected the pacing, and, for me, were distracting. I kept wondering stuff like - how can he remember the exact words from this dialogue? Was he taping it or something? And then, wondering about this, my thoughts would go off on a side trip and I'd start thinking about how weird it sometimes is to be a writer. I can imagine as Simpson was writing this book, that he might have often found himself in the weird position of being his own observer - taking note of how he reacts even as he's reacting.
Although *Touching the Void* is still my favorite Simpson read, I liked this book very much.
April 4, 2015
I'm absolutely terrified of heights , so to find a love of reading about mountaineering and the climbers tale is somewhat strange I admit.
But the honesty that comes from these climbers , the bravery , determination and courage to go on some of the most dangerous climbs where life has already been lost is something I can't help but admire.
I know id never do anything like this myself , and reading these books is my way of experiencing it.
This book has had me close to tears several times , especially over Joe Simpson's friend and climbing partner Tat. I can't express how the stories of climbers that have lost their life doing something they love touches my heart and I feel for the relatives , fellow climbers and when they are sometimes found years later.
Joe Simpson has a way of writing this sympathetically and you know he is a better man and I'm sure a better climber with the judgement he has on those mountains.
This is not his first book I've read. I first read Touching The Void and never forgot it.
With this book he has again written a memorable read.
But the honesty that comes from these climbers , the bravery , determination and courage to go on some of the most dangerous climbs where life has already been lost is something I can't help but admire.
I know id never do anything like this myself , and reading these books is my way of experiencing it.
This book has had me close to tears several times , especially over Joe Simpson's friend and climbing partner Tat. I can't express how the stories of climbers that have lost their life doing something they love touches my heart and I feel for the relatives , fellow climbers and when they are sometimes found years later.
Joe Simpson has a way of writing this sympathetically and you know he is a better man and I'm sure a better climber with the judgement he has on those mountains.
This is not his first book I've read. I first read Touching The Void and never forgot it.
With this book he has again written a memorable read.
October 11, 2019
I was inspired by the film, Touching the Void, a thrilling documentary of the successful summit of Siula Grande by Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, to pick up Simpson's The Beckoning Silence. It is an account of his attempt to summit the Eiger with his climbing friend, Ray Delaney. However, it is also his review of his climbing career and a very revealing look at his fears and doubts and how they spur him to take on what he calls just "games on a dangerous stage." It is filled with references to his other climbs and a look at the history of alpine climbing and its luminaries who were Simpson's boyhood heroes--heroes like Mallory and Hillary. He realizes that he feels most alive when he is on the edge, with death a very real possibility. He strives to live by the Tibetan philosophy that "stuff happens," to take gains and losses with an even hand as much as possible. This book is a personal tribute to his passion for the mountains! Bravo.
October 7, 2018
“Good memories of climbs are as much about these brilliantly intense experiences, milliseconds of movement, confrontations with infinity, breath held until you have won through. “
I have ready many mountaineering books over the years (although it is unlikely I’ll ever set foot on any mountains myself, as I would definitely fall to my death). Simpson is a perennial favourite, but this was not his best.
The story is a little disjointed, and there are a few too many digressions. While the references are always interesting (like the Hinterstoisser/Kurz story, which has always fascinated me), the limited space Simpson has for them makes them too abbreviated.
March 14, 2022
A Bit Wordy
I initially enjoyed Simpson’s detail in describing his actions, and mindset, around and during climbing, but found it too much as the the book progressed. Nice background history regarding Eiger mountaineering near the end.
I initially enjoyed Simpson’s detail in describing his actions, and mindset, around and during climbing, but found it too much as the the book progressed. Nice background history regarding Eiger mountaineering near the end.
November 18, 2016
I remain entertained by the way Simpson portrays his experiences in the extreme conditions of challenging mountains. His resilience post-injury, determination and narrative are excellent.
August 19, 2024
This is the second book of Joe Simpson that I read. I didn't like it quite as much as the excellent (and very unique) "Touching the Void", but still found it very much worth reading.
In this autobiographical book, Joe Simpson realizes many his mountaineering pals are dying one by one, so he decides he'll just do a few more summits and then retire from climbing mountains. For his gran finale he selects the north face of the Eiger. But rather than one epic story, this is constructed as a collection of short adventures, such that the attempt at the Eiger is just one story out of several. The thread connecting those stories is the decision to risk one's life in the mountains: why do we keep doing it, when it is clear that death is a plausible outcome?
That sounds a bit bleak, and it is. But it's not bleak reading, because Simpson, it turns out, is very funny in a witty sort of way (about his youth: "my body was my target and the bar was my temple"). Also because his apparent temptation for self-destruction is balanced by his passion for living an intense and authentic life. Indeed the writing feels authentic, as it did in Touching the Void, except here Simpson visits a much wider range of subjects and emotions.
There are some weaknesses, for instance the chapter on Mallory's body that feels like it was written in anger and then never proofread (perhaps that is intentional? for me that doesn't work, I prefer precise prose). I also found the Eiger climbing chapters to be difficult to follow, partly because I couldn't build a good mental picture of the route (it would have been nice to include a topo, including the bivi spots and prominent features of the face, among the many illustrations included in the book), and partly because of the references to a substantial collection of other people, historical or contemporary to the story, whose names/roles I had not memorized.
These weaknesses are inconsequential. Overall it's a great read, easily among the best mountaineering books I've read so far, like e.g. Terray's Conquistadors. It stands out for the quality of the writing (aside from that one chapter) and for the depth of introspection that it conveys.
In this autobiographical book, Joe Simpson realizes many his mountaineering pals are dying one by one, so he decides he'll just do a few more summits and then retire from climbing mountains. For his gran finale he selects the north face of the Eiger. But rather than one epic story, this is constructed as a collection of short adventures, such that the attempt at the Eiger is just one story out of several. The thread connecting those stories is the decision to risk one's life in the mountains: why do we keep doing it, when it is clear that death is a plausible outcome?
That sounds a bit bleak, and it is. But it's not bleak reading, because Simpson, it turns out, is very funny in a witty sort of way (about his youth: "my body was my target and the bar was my temple"). Also because his apparent temptation for self-destruction is balanced by his passion for living an intense and authentic life. Indeed the writing feels authentic, as it did in Touching the Void, except here Simpson visits a much wider range of subjects and emotions.
There are some weaknesses, for instance the chapter on Mallory's body that feels like it was written in anger and then never proofread (perhaps that is intentional? for me that doesn't work, I prefer precise prose). I also found the Eiger climbing chapters to be difficult to follow, partly because I couldn't build a good mental picture of the route (it would have been nice to include a topo, including the bivi spots and prominent features of the face, among the many illustrations included in the book), and partly because of the references to a substantial collection of other people, historical or contemporary to the story, whose names/roles I had not memorized.
These weaknesses are inconsequential. Overall it's a great read, easily among the best mountaineering books I've read so far, like e.g. Terray's Conquistadors. It stands out for the quality of the writing (aside from that one chapter) and for the depth of introspection that it conveys.
April 17, 2019
I enjoy Joe Simpson's writing. This book was a great read after Touching the Void. In this book, Joe Simpson writes about ice climbing, a little on paragliding, then details a climb on the Eiger, a mountain in the Alps. Occasionally, he jumps back to the experience detailed in Touching the Void, talking about how it affected his future mountain climbing. It's a different read from Touching the Void, but a worthy read.
Joe Simpson writes with inspiring honesty, frankness, and knowledge of himself as a climber. He adds in details about climbing and people who have climbed in the past that directly relate to his own experiences and dreams. As the reader, someone who doesn't climb mountains like him, I enjoy getting some history and learning some of what climbing involves without being bogged down with details that I can barely understand. Joe Simpsons provides an emotional picture of what it is like to be a climber, allowing a reader like me to live vicariously through his experience and understand the responsibility and weight involved in taking on endeavors like his.
Joe Simpson writes with inspiring honesty, frankness, and knowledge of himself as a climber. He adds in details about climbing and people who have climbed in the past that directly relate to his own experiences and dreams. As the reader, someone who doesn't climb mountains like him, I enjoy getting some history and learning some of what climbing involves without being bogged down with details that I can barely understand. Joe Simpsons provides an emotional picture of what it is like to be a climber, allowing a reader like me to live vicariously through his experience and understand the responsibility and weight involved in taking on endeavors like his.
April 20, 2022
I really wanted to give this 5 stars but I just couldn't do it The book left me with a sense of melancholy that I can't quite explain. The writing is excellent and he pours his heart into his books. There is humor as well, though as climbers it's often a "black humor" e.g.
"Climbing frozen waterfalls appears to the uninformed observer to be a complicated if somewhat novel form of suicide. Quite often this very same thought is worming uneasily through the mind of the hapless climber." - Nothing sent shivers through me quite like discovering water trickling (though it seems more like a torrent) underneath the ice you're trying to climb.
I would recommend his book "Touching The Void" as your first foray into his writings.
"Climbing frozen waterfalls appears to the uninformed observer to be a complicated if somewhat novel form of suicide. Quite often this very same thought is worming uneasily through the mind of the hapless climber." - Nothing sent shivers through me quite like discovering water trickling (though it seems more like a torrent) underneath the ice you're trying to climb.
I would recommend his book "Touching The Void" as your first foray into his writings.
April 27, 2022
The Beckoning Silence is more disjointed than the previous two books I've read by Simpson (Touching the Void and This Game of Ghosts), and it could have used a heavier editing hand to reign in the many ruminations on whether he's lost his passion for climbing. But Simpson's style of writing is undoubtedly thrilling - does anyone write better for the lay person about mountaineering? He also unleashes some dark humour in this book, particularly in the chapter about climbing the icy Bridalveil Falls, and there is deep sadness and reflection as friends are lost and he continually seeks to answer the questions: why do I climb? Can I stop? And do I even want to? The Beckoning Silence is another enjoyable book from Simpson.
August 30, 2019
I have tried climbing and my husband is an avid climber / mountaineer (he grew up in the Andes). No matter how many times we travel to the mountains, I always leave with the question.. why? Why do people do this? I got this book with an idea that I would find some form of an answer to my question. And I was not disappointed! Joe Simpson's writing is absolutely brilliant, honest and raw. He takes us through his inner turmoil as he weighs the risks against his long held dream of climbing Eiger. The decision-making aspects where most intriguing.. because a sound decision (when all hell has broken lose) might be the only thing that separates life and death.
September 29, 2021
The Eiger Nordwand. This stretch of treacherous rock holds some of the most iconic pitches and most dangerous climbing in the world. The sheer spectacle of the drama that unfolds here is scarcely believable- particularly when viewed from the nearby restaurant below, of the train portholes within. Simpson explores the story of various attempts and the great pioneers of Alpinism. This of course includes the wonderfully talented duo of Andi Hinterstoisser and Ton Kurtz. Their epic doomed assault forms the backbone of this writing as it so closely mirrors Simpson's own meetings with mortality. Brilliantly written, this book is exciting, morbidly fascinating and haunting. Very haunting.
August 26, 2023
I love a well-written book about climbing in the mountains. This is an activity that is completely beyond me and that I would never do. But I admire those who are capable and take on the huge risks. This book was of particular interest as we spend a week last year in Grindlewald, in a hotel with our room looking at The Eiger. A truly intimidating mountain if ever there was one. Joe Simpson is from Sheffield where I live (rumour has it he lives or lived just a few houses down the road from us), so it is always nice to read something from a local person. he summed up the thoughts, risks and experience so well that I almost felt I had tried the climb myself. Non-fiction at its best
July 15, 2024
Having read a lot of books about mountaineering this year, I wasn’t prepared for the depth of emotional reflection that is part of this book. However, it is a good example of ‘Food for Thought’ for the reader as much as the discoveries the author makes about himself as a human being and a climber. The historical reference to his inspirations of people and events is another direction that makes this book a very well rounded story. I faltered a little when I started to read The Beckoning Silence as it wasn’t the usual ‘Climbing a mountain’ account but ended up gaining a lot more insight about myself . Excellent writer.
September 13, 2024
Absolutely deserving of its status as a mountaineering classic. I'll never tire of reading how great climbers decide when to push or pull back, when to keep going or quit, what is worth and and what is not, and their willingness to bait death until it is close enough to taste. Although some of Joe Simpson's musing cover what is essentially the same content in multiple ways, those of us who love climbing and mountains will probably not see a problem with that and just allow ourselves to bask in his poetry.
January 27, 2025
I usually really enjoy climbing/mountaineering/outdoor adventure memoirs, but this one felt like a bit of a slog at times. Whether that's because it made me more uncomfortable than usual (so many worries, accidents, and difficult dilemmas) or whether I just wasn't feeling it and should have put it down to pick up later, I don't know - I can't say it was a bad book or badly written, but maybe it just wasn't for me! Giving three stars as it doesn't deserve a low rating in itself, and there were bits I really liked.
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