Columbus Pizza: A Slice of History

by Jim Ellison

For nearly a century Columbus, Ohio pizza parlors have served up delicious meals by the tray and by the slice. This history goes back to the 1930s, when TAT Ristorante began serving pizza. Today, it is the oldest family-owned restaurant in the city. Over the years, a specific style evolved guided by the experiences and culinary interpretations of local pizza pioneers like Jimmy Massey, Romeo Sirij, Tommy Iacono, Joe Gatto, Cosmo Leonardo, Pat Orecchio, Reuben Cohen, Guido Casa and Richie DiPaolo. The years of experimentation and refinement culminated in Columbus being crowned the pizza capital of the USA in the 1990s. Author and founder of the city's first pizza tour Jim Ellison chronicles one of the city's favorite foods.

Genres: Nonfiction, Food

162 pages, Hardcover

Published November 9, 2020

Reviews

[Coleman · Rating 4 out of 5]

Which city serves the best pizza pies? New York City? Fugetaboutit! Chicago? That isn’t a pizza, that’s a casserole. No my friends, as someone with absolutely no expertise or qualifications I can say that without a doubt, Columbus is the pizza capital of America. Nay, THE WORLD.

And it’s about time someone did our city justice. Jim Ellison has taken on the task of diving into the history of pizza in Columbus, uncovering how pizza businesses here started, thrived, and helped make Columbus a city of food innovators, competition champions, and community-minded pizza aficionados. I had no idea that the forefathers of the oldest pizza businesses all knew each other (and golfed together). I learned that Rubino’s and Bexley Pizza Plus may be next-door neighbors, but are not competitors (They help each other out if one restaurant is out of dough or the other is out of power). I discovered the story of that wonderful rocket-strapped basset hound atop the Hounddogs pizza delivery vehicle. Hell, I even found new names of old restaurants to check out so I can try their pizza as well.

This is not a ranked list of the “best” pizza or “most authentic” pizza in our fair city. It is a love letter to an underappreciated food in the test-market capital, and to the people that make that pizza taste so good.

I will admit the writing is sometimes repetitive, and the whole book could use a bit more editing and restructuring. But Ellison’s love for Columbus pizza comes through. And if a history book can make my mouth water every time I read it, I’d say it did its job.

[Debbie · Rating 4 out of 5]

A really fun and fascinating account of the many pizza places in our area. Looking forward to trying some new places for us!

[Mark Moxley-Knapp · Rating 5 out of 5]

A great overview of Columbus pizza history. Focuses mainly on the shops and families, covering pretty much all of them over the years. Goes into some detail about style, suppliers, etc. If you grew up or lived in Columbus, this is for you. If you like pizza (okay, are somewhat obsessive about it,) this is for you. A few photos, lots of stories from family and employees.

[Denise · Rating 5 out of 5]

Still giving it 5 stars despite leaving out Fabian's, Classics, Cafe Napolitana and OH Pizza and Brew. These should all be included, but the book turned me on to enough other small pizzeria's that I'll give it a pass :) A must read for pizza lovers in Columbus!!

[Ryan · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great find on the bookshelves of my local library! I immediately browsed through to my favorite shops to read about their history, then read through the rest to learn about places that I have yet to visit. There are so many places to choose from outside of the national chains. I especially enjoyed learning about the nuances of different pepperoni used and which places make house-made sausage from old-world recipes.

If you live in Columbus, this is a great book to pick up and peruse. It is a nice "side table" book. Too small for the coffee table, but something your houseguests will pick up out of curiosity if left out in the open.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

4.0

The history of the Italian families in Columbus, the history of the pizza business in Columbus and the background on so many individual pizza shops was so much fun to read (5.0). I have a whole bunch of new mom and pop pizza stores added to my wish list. The editing and organization were more of a 3.0, but the author's passion and knowledge for all things Columbus pizza definitely made up for it.

[Scott · Rating 4 out of 5]

Really nice book for learning about all the original Pizza Establishments in CBUS, I feel like such a failure by not even knowing about most of these having lived in CBUS since 1994!!! I have already traveled the city trying these places.

[Jennie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very comprehensive! Lost a star because the first place whose pizza I tasted back in the 60s was mentioned only in the past tense, as a vacant shop that another pizzeria moved into. That would be Rofini's on Weber Road. But, this is a worthwhile read.

[Sbwisni · Rating 3 out of 5]

Enjoyed reading it, but it’s more of an Encyclopedia style so I lagged for a while to pick it up and read. Also made me really hungry for pizza. A must for C-Bus area peeps who love pizza though. Would love to have one on hand as I explore the shops in the book!