Roaming Kyrgyzstan: Beyond the Tourist Track

by Jessica Jacobson

The small, mountainous country of Kyrgyzstan contains a surprising number of natural wonders, scenic beauty and cultural treasures. From the national pearl of Lake Issyk-Kul to world class skiing at bargain prices, horseback rides across vast empty plains, or a night in a shepherd's yurt, travelers will find ample opportunities for unforgettable experiences.Roaming Kyrgyzstan provides practical tips on travel, lodging, cuisine and activities for those who want to get an insider's view of the country. You'll find the best whitewater rafting, where to go for succulent lamb kebabs and how to get a peek at Kyrgyz weddings.Suitable for adventure traveler, the business visitor and the expatriate, the book guides visitors beyond the typical tourist destinations into the experience of Kyrgyz life and culture.In addition to travel tips, Roaming Kyrgyzstan contains a series of vignettes from the author's two and a half years living in Kyrgyzstan.She tells of her colleague who was kidnapped to become a wife, of a typical meal in a southern teahouse and of circumnavigating Lake Issyk-Kul solo by bike. These provide an inside view into the people, places, cultures and traditions of this magical, hospitable, and fascinating country.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction

216 pages, Paperback

First published November 4, 2008

Reviews

[Christine · Rating 4 out of 5]

Before I start the review, I should point out that I won this book on a Goodreads giveaway, and I am not, sadly, going to Kyrgyzstan any time soon (so I cannot speak to how accurate Jacobson's hotel descriptions are).

I entered the Goodreads giveaway for this book because I like the "watch' books bySergei Lukyanenko. While most of the action takes place in Russia, sometimes the books take place in former USSR countries. I also knew someone who was born in the neighboring country of Kazakhstan. The book was better than I thought it was going to be. Jacobson's guide is very detailed. She includes a glossary of both words/terms as well as food in the first section of the book. This was nice because while I knew what Koumiss was (it's fermented mare's milk), I didn't know what Lagman (noodles with broth, meat, peppers and tomatoes) or Jarma (fermented corn or wheat with kefir) were though I've seen the words in other books. There is also a sweet called Sumalak which only women can make, and the wheat used it in has to ferment and sprout. In the same section, Jacobson also lists common traditions of the country.

What is very clear throughout the whole book is Jacobson's love for the country. While her language in both the vignettes is never flowerily or overtly poetic, it's simplicity speaks far better. Take for instance part of her description of Sary-Chelek Biosphere Reserve: "The mountain air is so sweet from the dew, flowers, and herbs that breathing it is like drinking juice, with a different taste in each spot". It almost sounds corny, but it's not because there is such an earnest love for what she is writing about. It makes a vast difference from the guide I read for my trip to Toronto. That guide was written by a native who said, constantly, that she loved her city. Sadly, her writing didn't show that. Jacobson's love for Kyrgyzstan is on every page.

The vignettes make up a small part of the guide, and the bulk of the book is too help tourists. She includes phone numbers and descriptions of places to visit in stay. At times, these descriptions are funny, for instance she describes one guesthouse as having "the feeling of a remodeled kindergarten". Jacobson also tells you the legends and tales behind the landmarks. This is done outside of the vignettes. She also has clear helpful advice from telling the reader that cash is a must in some areas to stating it is best to visit an animal bazaar early to avoid the drunks. (The only time I have seen something similar in a guide book was in a book detailing the pilgrim trail in the Netherlands which told readers not to take photos of the scantily clad women who stood in windows in Amsterdam. To take such photos, the book pointed out, you risked getting beaten up by a pimp). She also points out which guides she herself used as well as a homestay owner who is uncomfortable with non-married couples.

The vignettes themselves are interesting. The stolen bride one is on page 180 and presents a most interesting view of male/female relations. Each one does a good job of capturing the person or the place.

I never wanted to visit Kyrgyzstan before, but after reading this book, I do.

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

I have never been to Kyrgyzstan. Heck, Mexico is the farthest abroad I've traveled, but I've always loved reading about far away lands and someday my husband and I always say that we're going to travel the world, so I still found this extremely practically travel guide a worthwhile read. After spending 2 1/2 years in Kyrgyzstan for work and pleasure, Jacobson has a lot of knowledge to share about traveling through the country as an American.

After an introductory section giving all sorts of general information about the country (history, currency, popular foods, how to get visas, etc.) each subsequent chapter talks about a separate area of the country. The chapters usually start out with the largest city and the information is further broken down into subheadings such as "Where to Sleep" "Where to Eat" and "What to Do". After the typical dry guidebook affair of list available services, Jacobson also adds pertinent comments on the places and services she's most familiar with including highlighting those she highly recommends (and letting you know which places aren't worth your time). Also scattered throughout the text are short vignettes on her experiences in Kyrgyzstan, including stories about some her favorite hikes and observations on cultural practices, including the much contested practice of bride stealing.

The only thing missing from this book was a more detailed map of the country, but if you're planning a trip to Kyrgyzstan, I'm assuming this wouldn't be the only guidebook you pack. Still I would make sure to bring along this guide to getting off the beaten path and enjoying the real Kyrgyzstan.

[Bookworm · Rating 4 out of 5]

Outdated travel guide, but still has fascinating!
1. Directly above China.
2. Over 80% mountains.
3. Nomadic culture with horses and yurts.
4. National drink is Koumiss (fermented horse milk).
5. World's largest walnut forests.
6. Epic of Manas: This is one of the longest epic poems ever written, with 500,000 lines.
7. They train eagles to hunt for them.
8. Handcrafted silver jewelry offers spiritual protection.
9. Bright colored indigenous clothing.
10. National animals are Snow Leopards.

[Milan Pohl · Rating 4 out of 5]

Poměrně stručný, ale zato přehledný a zasvěcený průvodce po Kyrgyzstánu obsahující i tipy na zajímavá místa, kam turisté obvykle nechodí. Skvělým doplňkem jsou krátké historky poskytující lepší vhled do kyrgyzského života a kultury; nevýhodou je pak skutečnost, že od vydání knihy uběhlo osm let a některé údaje a tipy ohledně stravování či ubytování tak již pravděpodobně nebudou aktuální. (Po osobní návštěvě Kyrgyzstánu možná své hodnocení této knihy upravím.)

[Aimee · Rating 3 out of 5]

Jacobson, an expat who lived in Kyrgyzstan for several years, combines insider info on what to see with short vignettes of her experiences in Kyrgyzstan. On one hand, it gave me some insights that I did not find in other guidebooks, but it had some expired and/or inaccurate information about some of these sights.

[Chloe · Rating 2 out of 5]

Information is presented awkwardly and in paragraph form most of the time. While the information is great, the book is not easily readable.