China Underground

by Zachary Mexico

China is often in the news, but our knowledge of this massive country is cursory at best. Carefully controlled by the Chinese government, little escapes the scrutiny of those who monitor the media. With such a large land mass, a mix of cultures, and one of the world's oldest civilizations, it's surprisingly difficult to frame an accurate picture.

In China Underground, Mexico takes us on a kaleidoscopic journey into the lives of its denizens to reveal the "new" China. It's a riveting ride, with cameos by a drug hustler, a group of club kids, a new prostitute, and some seriously stressed-out teenagers cramming for their college entrance exams. Mexico visits the artists and musicians who comprise the creative class, and the scores obsessed with the newest role-playing game. Through his lens, we see a people disillusioned and full of despair -- a people who've embraced the Western values we cherish.

Like Suketu Mehta's portrait of Mumbai in Maximum City, Mexico's peek behind the Great Wall is surprisingly revelatory. Did you know that the Chinese shun credit cards as well as voice mail? Or that the population of many of its cities makes Manhattan seem like a quiet country meadow? Read this gripping, sometimes comic, always illuminating book and find out what it's like to live in China today: the good, the bad, and the ugly.
Barnes & Noble Discover Great New Writers
(Summer 2009 Selection)

Genres: China, Nonfiction, Travel, Asia, Biography, Cultural, Essays

316 pages, Paperback

First published January 27, 2009

Reviews

[Joshua · Rating 4 out of 5]

Mr. Mexico (a pseudonym) took the alternative road to China book writing, the one where you bypass J-school, the peace corps, or an internship at the NY Times, and just go wading straight into the muck of life, and see what you find. This road-less-travelled is hazardous, as one runs the risk of becoming a third-rate gonzo journalist, chasing lurid stories and thrills while lacking the writings skills or faculties of analysis required to transform ones squalid adventures into anything approaching insightful reading. In fact, for may years, I assumed that Mexico was just another of these attention-seeking sensationalists, and China Underground's cover did nothing to dispel my prejudice. When I finally picked up the book, however, I was pleasantly surprised. Mr. Mexico's subjects do tend to fall outside the mainstream, but not as a rule, and his treatment of them is far from sensationalist. Most of the chapters of this book focus on Chinese people pursuing their own paths in life, whether as slackers in the heyday of China's hippy backpacker haven, Dali, or as aspiring rockstars, or even moderately successful screenwriters in the cultural and political capital, Beijing. I personally have lived in China for over a decade, most of that time spent in Beijing and Dali, and what I enjoyed most about this book is that these characters rang true to my own experience. They have the feel of people I have actually met, conversed with, and forged friendships with in China. In fact, with regards to the types of people who occupy the indy music, art, DIY, and alternative lifestyle scenes in China, I can think of no other book that offers more accurate portrayals. In this sense, the book would make a great companion to Alec Ash's Wish Lanterns, which follows six young Chinese people through their post-college years, mostly choosing to pursue more mainstream paths in life (but not entirely, who can forget Lucifer?). Between the two books you will meet a vast array of characters, each negotiating their own course between self-actualization and compromise within the overtly conformist pressures of Chinese society.

[Alvaro Mateu · Rating 1 out of 5]

Leí este libro durante un viaje a China en el verano de 2018. Se trata de una recopilación de relatos protagonizados por miembros de distintos estratos sociales y subculturas que el autor conoció durante su estancia como estudiante en China.

A pesar de ser una lectura sencilla y ligera que no precisa de mucha concentración, Zachary presenta una redacción inmadura, adolescente e incluso egocéntrica que termina aburriendo. Si bien es cierto que se tocan varios temas controvertidos de gran relevancia en el contexto social del momento (prostitución, tráfico de drogas, libertad de prensa, contaminación, etc.), el análisis de fondo que realiza el autor es prácticamente inexistente.

El resultado son historias bastante planas, plagadas de tópicos y exageraciones que carecen de interés real para el lector que pretenda profundizar en la realidad social del país.

[Paige · Rating 3 out of 5]

As much as I love reading about Asian culture, this book somewhat disappointed me. Yes, it was very cultural and it had good insight into the life of many Chinese people who are frustrated with their faulty government. However, not all of these "short stories" that were written seemed very legitimate. Basically, it just didn't feel like there was a point to some of these stories. I understand what the writer was getting at, trying to share the life stories of people whom are struggling within China. But the book didn't feel like a book - it felt like mere journalism. And to be quite honest, I'm not a huge fan of journalism writing. So as you can imagine, this book isn't one of my favorites.

[Gilbert Van Kerckhove · Rating 5 out of 5]

An other book I read some time ago and I liked. It reminds me of Wish Lanterns" (Alec Ash). Interesting stories of the "underground" world in China, the world most foreigners never notice and actually many local Chinese are not familiar with. China's present society has become very complex and Zachary shines a light on that darker side. I also meet and experience some of those "situations", so it sounds kinda familiar. Good job. Recommended if you want to have a peek into the hidden layers of China today

[Alexandria Washington · Rating 3 out of 5]

Awwww yeah, stories about the different subcultures of this monolithic new hegemon? Count me in!

Wait, it's mostly our author talking about himself and his connections? Okay, cool. Whatever.

"China Underground" had potential to be a kind of lurid exposé of different Chinese subcultures. I was really excited to read about the huge drug scene in Beijing, or the HIV/AIDS crisis from the viewpoint of a closeted gay man in Chengdu. And I got a taste of each, but only barely.

The storytelling teased me in a bad way; it gave me certain expectations but then left me wanting more. And let's not talk about how Mexico got lazy halfway through and decided to start dropping f-bombs. I mean, I curse like a sailor but the foul language felt forced. If you're gonna use colorful vocabulary, it's gotta roll off the pen (or keyboard, whatever).

In all, it wasn't awful. And to be honest, now I kinda wanna check out so-called "Killing Clubs" and the punk scene in China. But man, talk about hyping yourself up.

[Robert P. Hoffman · Rating 5 out of 5]

After reading a few of the stories I was skeptical that the author's approach would work, there seemed too many brief stories and no themes that were being developed.

But then as I read more I realized that the author's approach works quite well. There are just a few moments where he decides to editorialize or tries to draw conclusions. But for the most part, he tells stories of a variety of different individuals. All the stories are interesting, well-written, and he treats the people he writes about with respect.

As I continued to read the stories I realized how powerful the stories were, telling stories of the lives of people who came from different cultures, had different goals in their lives, and who were trying to come to terms with what was happening in China.

I was struck by how much lawlessness there is in China. In most cities prostitution is common, people in hotels get phone calls, knocks on doors.

I was also struck by how much alcohol the Chinese drink and how widespread drug use is.

There are many stories of people who are trying to stand up to the Chinese government and how effective the government is in preventing people from being able to challenge the Communist party.

Overall this is an outstanding book and the author shows what a good journalist has to do: a good journalist has to go out and meet people and listen to people and not have himself or herself be the focus of attention but rather look to tell good stories.

[Paolo Aguas · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve read this book before and to be honest I cannot understand why I like this book so so much. The writing is good yes but I guess the people the author interviews and the places he has been in China and it inspires me to want to write a book like this but in the country I love so much which is Cambodia. Honestly Zachary Mexico is a good writer and if you like real world and ordinary people this is the book for you, one of my favorite books.

[Shaun · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was in China around the same time as many of these pieces were conceived so a lot of it is familiar. However, through the current lens of constant anti-China rhetoric out of the USA, many chapters of this book suffer from the foreigner looking in and shaking their heads. If this book had been stories from another country perhaps I would've shaken my head too. I wonder if Zachary went there now he would come back with the same types of stories.

[Mathieu CR · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic compilations of encounters that this sino-American student, avid traveler, had during his stay in China. Zachary tells the story of a rock band leader, a gang member, a drug dealer, a prostitute, students at elite university, etc. Background information on politics, social or cultural references are often included to guide the readers. Highly recommended.

[Wise Panda · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very interesting to hear uncensored stories of China

It's hard to hear uncensored stories of China. It is very much different from what main stream media can show you without retaliation even if you are a foreigner. With over a billion people in China, there 's tremendous amount of diversity unlike what the communist party would like you to believe.

[Michael · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fabulous

This is “pointillism” brought to a canvas called China. And it is of the highest caliber, the journalistic equivalent of painters like Jean Metzinger, Chuck Close, etc.
I want to read anything published by Zachary Mexico.

[Hatt Merlino · Rating 4 out of 5]

Slightly dated but still an incredible picture of the other side of China. Can really appreciate the time Zach put into this book. Loved the blocky narration and visual stories he provides!

[Lally]

good for people who know nothing about china

[Foster · Rating 4 out of 5]

Nice snapshot of China in the crazy days of the 2000s.

[Alexis Piornack · Rating 5 out of 5]

Casually written, nostalgic to me, somewhat repetitive

Interesting to think of how much has changed in the last ~20 years

[Khanh · Rating 4 out of 5]

really interesting and i breezed through it like nothing. biased in some parts tho.

[Chilly SavageMelon · Rating 3 out of 5]

I'm mixed here. Zachary, did you try the ketamine? Did you bang a prostitute? If so, why not tell us about it? If not, why the pseudonym? The Party will be after you? Don't flatter yourself, rebel laowei. But he does admit to smoking hash with "the Uighur Hendrix" (who himself says he doesn't want to be called the Uighur Hendrix...). I lived in China for over two years and never saw any K (Bangkok - yes, Beijing - no) but he was clearly running in different circles. For example, the Wuhan punk stuff, which was interesting, and the last chapter, clubbing in BJ, which read like Candace Bushnell... It's also sort of questionable someone would have such connections overall in China, but the scene there is weird like that, and his Mandarin skills are definitely superior to mine. I'm also seriously doubting 10% of women there have done any of the 7 levels of ji work. But even just 1% of just over half of 1.3 billion people is still a whole lot of prostitutes...

The writer comes off like a rich kid who befriended publishers, or his friends became publishers, and encouraged him to get these tales into a book. But that doesn't mean he gets to call himself a "writer". Well, maybe more is coming - we'll see. I'd say don't attempt to wear the Gonzo Journalist hat without getting your hands dirty. But then, his female publishers, Heidi, and half his hipster audience wouldn't be OK with candid whore stories, would they? I would have liked to hear more about Kunming and the time managing the bar where he was supposedly based, but there is more here about Dali. More tales from Qingdao for that matter. But that's OK, I myself was ex-pat Shandongren. And no mention of Xian? So be it, it just seemed he wanted to touch on so many major cities.

Two things I did find serendipitously pleasing: the killing people game - a version of which I came across in a Chengdu hostel last Summer; and the BBC doc 'China from the inside', which I saw last year, and recommend, though it's more of a downer than parts of this book concerning grim realities in modern China.

Overall, how to "rate" this collection? If you've never been, I suppose it paints a good picture of some elements you might not expect. But don't go to China looking for ketamine, or expecting insider connections like he makes seem so casual here. Maybe if you've been studying Mandarin since you were 15, have a bankroll, and years to invest. If you have lived over there, you probably have experiences similar to this yourself, doubt others, and should try and talk your friends into publishing them. But this book goes into the eye easily enough and I'd like to see this "empathetic, exotic, rebel, badass" laowei write more. Just don't worry about impressing us with 4 star hotel deals you booked online, or let the pollution have you running for the KFC. And what's with name dropping all the cigarette brands?

[Lee · Rating 2 out of 5]

I've rated this two starts, but I would rate it two and a half, if I could. I didn't like it that much, and it is a fairly quick read for a 300 page book. Nevertheless, there are some interesting tidbits that make it worth picking up from the library, though not buying.

My biggest criticism is that his style is too juvenile. Though he often comes at issues with interesting or provocative analysis of different aspects of Chinese culture, it just sounds poorly written. A lot of the things he writes are overkill, in the way that so many writers write their first book. Furthermore, he did not do a great job of structuring the book; often times he repeats facts that he has already gone over at points earlier in the book.

Most chapters have a part where Mexico explains some very basic background to whatever part of Chinese culture that he is analyzing. In these sections, it is fairly boring to read if you know anything about China, and that takes away from the reading of the book, at least for me. If you are coming at this knowing nothing of China, you might be appreciative that he has included this.

Despite the bad writing and the other flaws, he does take a look at some interesting aspects of Chinese culture, things that often get overlooked in the headlines: gansters, Nigerian drug-dealers, prostitutes, Chinese Beatniks, etc. Each of the chapter focuses on a different individual or group of people from whatever category he considers underground, so one chapter is dedicated to his interview with the Nigerian dealer, one to the Beatnik, etc.

Still, often times he exaggerates. In Beijing, Nigerians are not "everywhere." Not every Karaoke bar has prostitution. Certainly, in certain parts of Beijing, on could be surprised by how many Nigerians there are and KTV places are often a front for prostitution. That said, having lived in China, I never encountered a prostitute in a karaoke joint and I went months in Beijing without seeing a Nigerian. These sorts of exaggerations make it hard to trust Mexico. How much of the other things he is writing about are true? How much is he just stretching the truth to try and make things a little spicy?

And finally, he is constantly pointing out how he doesn't do drugs or use the services of prostitutes, but seriously? I find it hard to believe Mexico, who is friends with all these party-heavy expats who he uses to connect himself with guys who smoke weed all day in Dali or deal Coke in Shanghai, is not more involved. I don't want to judge him, I just wish he would come out and be more honest.

This book has something to offer, but it's flaws detract a little too much for me to recommend rushing it to the top of your reading list. Maybe Mexico has some promise as an unconventional journalist reporting from the dark alleys of a growing China. Perhaps this book is just his first step to being a great writer. Still, he has some way to go.

[Jason · Rating 2 out of 5]

I'm sorry, but it amazes me that this book has such a following from so many people interested in China. I found this book poorly researched, immaturely written, and also quite held-back. Did this pseudonym-using "adventurer" actually sleep with the prostitutes? Did he actually do the drugs? Did he really get involved with the criminal underbelly? I never do this, either, but frankly, my own novel Desert Bleeds Red, while being a fictional tale, is much more honest. You see, Mr. Mexico, I do not use a pseudonym when I write, because I do not live my life in fear of the Chinese government banning me from ever entering the country again. I also admit readily to my own hijinks in China, which continued over a much longer period of time (I was in country for four years, and left once I married a Mongolian woman and had had it up to here with the government's bullshit).

It's just disappointing that this book has attracted so many readers, and yet it is written poorly, only scratches the surface of the nation, and is even dishonest at times. I'm not a spammer, but honestly, I think readers here would find "Desert Bleeds Red" a much grittier and expansive view of the country. If this is the standard (exempting a few terrific writers like Hessler) for "inside looks" at this humongous, mysterious nation, then how disappointing.

[Anders · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a 'China-hand' from 2008-2012 I can say that Mexico's book paints a true picture of China neglected in mainstream media and books that make vague assertions on China's "Great" rise. Here we have the anti-heros and outcasts; the hookers, rock and rollers and mafia that are bank-rolling and banking on the road to red Capitalism. As a musician myself I've dabbled in the dark lairs of China's underground, relishing in its misery and mysticism. Mexico's China experience is unconventional in the eyes of English teachers and expatriate business leaders, but nowadays there are tens of thousands of "laowai" who enjoy a more "underground" existence mingling with China's counter-culture. It's these folks who are the subject of a novel I'm editing, a comedic ethnology of expat culture, entitled, "Laowhy?" Ultimately, Mexico set the bar for a more holistic take on China's development and dispossessed to which he learned from years of "gan bei" of warm beer and soaking in the chaos of contemporary china. Cheers!

[Gloria · Rating 3 out of 5]

Gift from Lynn; read for book club, too.

Well, I have to say that it is a quick read, and much of it rings true to what I recall from my many years in China, except maybe that the rich are much richer than before, and there are more ways (at least depicted in this book) of entertaining oneself to distraction (rather than fighting to get out, change things, etc).

That said, I also wonder about what a book about the US might look like; and then it became more interesting to think about this book.

Perhaps the most striking thing is underlying throughout is the power of guanxi, and, as one character said, there isn't really a sense of community in China. This became a really interesting point, as in my book club, there are expats from Europe/UK, and they really did point to the American volunteerism as a distinct characteristic…

[Georgia · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting read for people interested in knowing about modern China. It turns out I know the author—I went to college with him and we studied in Beijing in the same summer program. (He was not really a friend—he was the kind of person who, even in college, thought that there were some people who were cool enough to be his friends and some who weren't—but he was extremely gregarious and loved to talk to locals, and I trust his knowledge of China.) He's written about Chinese journalists, punk rock bands, prostitutes, and mobsters he's met, talking about the people who aren't usually talked about by people writing about China. Not all that elegantly written, but it's thorough and clear and at times entertaining. A much better view of what living in China is like than most books will give.

[Emrie · Rating 5 out of 5]

As a Chinese major, I'm often trapped in classes, in universities and upper class establishments. But the truth is that the average Chinese person is not like the affluent professors and college students who wear designer clothes and drive their own cars. What's worse is that Party censorship prevents us from understanding the culture any deeper. Drugs, sex, rock&roll - these things shaped America and they've been brought to China whether the government likes it or not.

China Underground is an insightful, and often surprising look into what's under the surface of Chinese culture. Mexico, as a foreigner, shares with us his discoveries through his time in China, revealing the true issues of Chinese society.

This is a must read for anyone studying Chinese or who wants to understand China on a deeper level.

[Elizabeth · Rating 4 out of 5]

hipster american, zachary taylor (with a name like that, of course you are), who studied and lived in china for a number of years writes essays about various cities and people. He introduces us to hipster chinese artists, musicians, journalists and such. there's drugs, sex and rock n' roll, the mafia and a nigerian thrown in for good measure. there's also a healthy dose of what kind of political restrictions go on, the intense level of pollution and also exactly how boomarific China really is. some of the statistics he throws around are mind-boggling, and this is pre- olympic territory. he says that some say about one in every ten women earn her living as a prostitute- nearly 70 million people. HOLY SHIT. an interesting read.

[Jane · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting collage of stories from the less reported side of China, this book is an engaging and easily digestible whirlwind tour.

Having lived and worked in China, a lot of the stories brought smiles of recognition and sparked off my own nostalgia for the curioser aspects of the country that are never mentioned in the tedious rehashing that passes for commentary on China in most Western media.

The chapters that focus on the stories of individual people, with their histories, dreams, frustrations and contradictions, are by far the strongest and most interesting. Minus points for the some of the duller chapters, which tend to focus solely on travel writing, which is not Mexico's strong point, or China's drug culture, which I'm just not interested in.

[David Lau · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very entertaining and quite insightful read especially for those who have had exposure to modern, communist with capitalistic characteristics China. It puts live examples to many of the under the radar dealings we suspect are happening, but that escape our visual periphery. A more motivational read than groundbreaking, it's biggest message is: There's a lot of money flying around in China; it's the newest fad, and in a frenzy people are rushing to obtain as much of that money as they can, today, for who knows when all that paper will suddenly dissolve into thin air? All it would take is one call from the CCP...

[Basslynn9 · Rating 4 out of 5]

Zachary Mexico is a young American writer and musician who lived and studied in China for a number of years. China Underground is a collection of essays about Mexico's friends and aquaintances and their non-mainstream lives. For anyone who thinks of Chinese society as a monolith, this book is a good antidote. Though Mexico goes out of his way to describe those on the fringes of society, there is a great deal of healthy criticism as well as empathy. China Underground is definitely a young dude's book, with a hipster sensibility, but as I considered myself a female equivalent of the same many years ago, this book speaks to me.

[Robert · Rating 4 out of 5]

A well-written (though with the occasional errors) exposition on the hidden side of China. Mexico reveals the faces of modern day China that are rarely seen by foreigners, even by many expatriates that live in China. The scars created by its tortured 20th century history, its rapid rise to fiscal and industrial prosperity, all whilst many still are trampled under hoof of its massive economachine. Mexico gives lively portrayals of the Chinese as they navigate their lives within these tumultuous times. And despite the rough portrayals, the tales are gripping and exciting -- it makes me personally nostalgic to return to this cultured, yet troubled, land between Earth and Heaven.

[Astrid Yrigollen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I found this book very interesting till about the middle, then the interviews sort of lagged and it was a push to finish it. I did like the the friendly sort of interview style that Mexico had, the subject matter of most of his stories ( interviews) No doubt about it, Mexico definitely knows an interesting array of people. I had no problem with his writing style, in fact I found it unpretentious and refreshing. While not interested in some of the people he wrote about, he did offer a variety of view points from people living on the fringe of Chinese society, the punk rocker, the gay man,the drug pusher,etc to appeal to anyone who is interested in the sociology of this "modern" China.

[Jim · Rating 4 out of 5]

Normally you hear about china's economical growth and human right issues. This book takes you under the skin of the Chinese society and show colorful people that is not so visible in the daily China-life. I have myself lived in china for nearly one year, and this book both confirms and rejects some of myths and impression about the monotonicity I had about the Chinese people and culture. If you want to see a different side of China and want to learn about Chinese life, I recommend to read this book.