Retail Inequality: Reframing the Food Desert Debate

by Kenneth H. Kolb

Retail Inequality examines the failure of recent efforts to improve Americans' diets by increasing access to healthy food. Based on exhaustive research, this book by Kenneth H. Kolb documents the struggles of two Black neighborhoods in Greenville, South Carolina. For decades, outsiders ignored residents' complaints about the unsavory retail options on their side of town—until the well-intentioned but flawed "food desert" concept took hold in popular discourse. Soon after, new allies arrived to help, believing that grocery stores and healthier options were the key to better health. These efforts, however, did not change neighborhood residents' food consumption practices. Retail Inequality explains why and also outlines the history of deindustrialization, urban public policy, and racism that are the cause of unequal access to food today. Kolb identifies retail inequality as the crucial concept to understanding today’s debates over gentrification and community development. As this book makes clear, the battle over food deserts was never about food—it was about equality.

Genres: Food, Nonfiction, Social Justice

277 pages, Hardcover

First published December 21, 2021

Reviews

[Laur En]

"Why couldn't we see the food desert problem for what it was: a subset of the larger problem of retail inequality... In short, by focusing on "healthy food" rather than retail inequality, the food desert movement was able to avoid talking about tougher problems like poverty and "color-blind" racism."

As someone who went to school for environmental studies, I've partaken in many discussions regarding food deserts. It is always within the frame of "health" and never equality.

"In 2012, a study of thirteen thousand children and adolescents in California found "no evidence to support the hypotheses that improved access to supermarkets, or that less exposure to fast-food restaurants or convenience stores within walking distance, improve diet quality of reduce BMI."

Putting a grocery store close by does not suddenly and magically change the diet/food preferences of individuals. As mentioned above, framing the issue as a "health issue" allows outsiders to pretend that the issue is not about racism/systemic disadvantages.

"Why couldn't we hear what food desert residents were trying to tell us: the problem wasn't about food, it was about retail inequality and its historical root causes."

"For members of this largely white, middle-class social movement, fighting for fresher food can feel -and taste- good. Addressing the root cause of retail inequality, on the other hand, forces foodies to engage in difficult conversations about our country's history of discriminatory housing and transportation policies, white flight to the suburbs, and the residential segregation of Black people into areas without jobs or opportunity."

This was a great book full of thorough research and community engagement. The author interviewed residents within a food desert over the span of a few years and listened to what they wanted. Even though the residents individually perhaps didn't plan on changing their eating habits, they wanted the opportunity to. They wanted retail equality.

[Laurel Phan]

Honestly get ready to erase every bit of info you know about food deserts learned solely through popular media outlets. Tbh I wish I read this book before writing a report on a similar topic last summer. This book was super insightful and made me so much more wary of using terms like food insecurity, food deserts, and food justice all in the same context, and it made me more wary of how easy it is to push super small misconceptions via media (that ultimately lead to huge policy shifts).

[Sarah]

Tells the stories of the people living in low-income neighborhoods compassionately and respectfully. Gives you a lot to think about. Really interesting and insightful

[Sarah]

A really interesting perspective on the myth of food deserts and how it impacts neighborhoods.

[Lauren]

Everyone who participates in food access activism or advocacy should read this.