Minarets in the Mountains: A Journey into Muslim Europe

by Tharik Hussain

A magical, eye-opening account of a journey into a Europe that rarely makes the news and is in danger of being erased altogether. Another Europe. A Europe few people believe exists and many wish didn't. Muslim Europe. Longlisted for the Baillie Gifford Prize for Non-Fiction 2021.
Writer and documentary-maker Tharik Hussain sets off with his wife and young daughters around the Western Balkans, home to the largest indigenous Muslim population in Europe, and explores the regions of Eastern Europe where Islam has shaped places and people for more than half a millennium. Encountering blonde-haired, blue-eyed Muslims, visiting mystical Islamic lodges clinging to the side of mountains, and praying in mosques older than the Sistine Chapel, he paints a picture of a hidden Muslim Europe, a vibrant place with a breathtaking history, spellbinding culture and unique identity.
Minarets in The Mountains, the first non-fiction account by a Muslim writer on this subject, explores the historical roots of the current tide of Islamophobia. Tharik and his family learn lessons about themselves and their own identity as Britons, Europeans, and Muslims. Following in the footsteps of renowned Ottoman traveller Evliya Celebi, they remind us that Europe is as Muslim as it is Christian, Jewish or pagan.
Like William Dalrymple's In Xanadu, this is a vivid reimagining of a region's cultural heritage, unveiling forgotten Muslim communities, empires and their rulers; and like Kapka Kassabova's Border, it is a quest that forces us to consider what makes up our own identities, and more importantly, who decides?

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Islam, History, Religion, European History

338 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2021

Reviews

[Bel · Rating 1 out of 5]

I’m a Bosnian Muslim from Sarajevo, now living in the UK, and I found this book a frustrating and irritating read. I was excited by the theme, which is well worth exploring, but I believe the author went to the region with preconceived notions which he then tried to fit into the narrative. Why for example is he eating pide on his first night in Sarajevo, and getting disappointed that it’s not as good as the one he had in Turkey? Well, perhaps because you’re not in Turkey. Pide was an unknown food in Sarajevo until after the war and is very much there for tourists like him. It’s absolutely nothing to do with Bosnian identity or food. Why is he not eating Bosnian pie or ‘pita’, which you can only get in Bosnia? And no one refers to Sandjak in Serbia (where Novi Pazar is) as ‘little Turkey’. Ottomans left an important and enduring legacy in the region but present day Bosnia and Sandjak have nothing to do with modern day Turkey. And also, it doesn’t rain constantly in the summer in central Bosnia, and the climate is nothing like the climate in London. It is completely inaccurate to say this. And there is no ‘pakeri’ in Bosnia, the word is ‘pekara’. He also talks about ‘komšiluk’ as the name for a concept of good neighbourliness that permeates the region. If it is, I’ve never come across it. Komšiluk is a name that represents the simple concept of a neighbourhood and not at all what he describes. This book is riddled with inaccuracies and author’s bias. I’m sorry that people unfamiliar with the region will read this text and believe every word the author says. I hope a serious writer will interrogate this subject matter soon and write a much better book than this one.

[Paul · Rating 4 out of 5]

Thanks to the rise of the political right-wing, Muslim Europe is being pushed as a threat to our way of life in Europe and the UK. But if you go back far enough, in corners of the continent, you will find that there are communities of Muslims who have been have been living peacefully alongside Christians, Jews and pagans for centuries. They are as much a part of our history as anyone else.

Wanting to discover more about these people, Tharik Hussain sets off with his wife and young daughters around the Western Balkans in search of the people there. As he travels from Bosnia & Herzegovina to Serbia and Kosovo, North Macedonia, Montenegro and Albania he finds is a thriving Muslim community. He visits the Mostar Bridge that was rebuilt after it was destroyed during the Croat–Bosniak War, prays in mosques that are older than the Sistine Chapel and talks to many different factions of Muslims from Sunni’s to dervishes.

Between him and his wife, they planned a route taking guidance from the route that the Ottoman traveller Evliya Celebi took across the Ottoman Empire in the 1600s. It feels really up to date, too. There is a lot of history in here, a particular fascination of Hussain’s, but there is much more detail about the towns that they stay in and the people that they meet during their travels.

I liked this book about a part of Europe and its history that I knew almost nothing about. Hussain is an engaging writer who has an open mind with regard to the people that he meets on his journey in the region. The other thing that worked for me in this book is that he is travelling with his family which is a very different context compared to the usual travel books where you have a lone writer and their take on a place. Well worth reading if you want a very different perspective on the history of Europe.

[Whimsicalmaria · Rating 5 out of 5]

Minarets in the Mountains by Tharik Hussain.

This is a wonderful and truly heartwarming travelogue by the creator of The Woking Trail and The Muslim Cemetery Walk, which is a Muslim herotage trail in the UK. It records the journey that brother Tharik undertook with his beloved family through Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro. He described the sufi lodges he found along the way, mosques, bridges and old Muslim villages that have existed for hundreds of years.

I loved that he not only wrote about the structures of the buildings they visited, but also the history (and even legends) of the place. He added on how Europeans have been actively trying to erase the glorious history of Muslims in this region, despite the Ottomans having brought civilization to this corner of the world (and hence to the Western Europe too).

The many mentions of Sinan the architectural genius of the 16th century Ottoman really made my read more enjoyable. I first found out about him from the historical fiction, The Architect's Apprentice by Elif Shafak. Since then I get excited everytime I saw him being mentioned or even when I looked at photos of Suleymaniye Mosque. He's responsible for the building of many many structures throughout the Ottoman empire, and at least monitoring/supervising their construction.

Brother Tharik's friendly personality is evident in this book. I believe that this allowed him to approach any strangers without them being intomidated by him. This made his experience of meeting people throughout his journey beautiful, and he certainly met with a lot of cheerful, kind and helpful Muslims. Among the things that he captured from his visits was how, in some cities/villages, the locals still practice old age traditions of respecting the guests of the city, by giving a lot of free gifts even when he went to the shops or roadside sellers to buy something.

His love and gentleness towards his wife and daughters made this book even more pleasing. His descriptions about sunni, shiah and sufism was non-divisive and non-judgmental, which led to a peaceful reading (he's sunni Muslim, in case you're wondering).

During the many weeks of their travel, of course they encountered some unpleasant personalities and alarming experience, or even confusing practices, but those occurrences did not make them suspicious towards everyone they met in the country, nor deter them from enjoying other places. In fact, they approached every locality with open hearts and minds.

This is definitely a book that I'd highly recommend if you love travelogues.

[kallis.ema · Rating 3 out of 5]

It was very interesting to read about European Muslims and how different religions live peacefully side to side in the Balkans. Since he was travelliing with his family he included small conversations that - at least for me- were a bit boring since they were often not really connected to the actual topic of the book. Nonetheless, his pictures and descriptions made me even more curious about the Balkans and I can't wait to go back there to discover things with my own eyes (I guess having read this book will help me to spot Muslim influences more). I got a new perspective on the Ottoman period. I learned about the Islamic part of these countries and that they're mostly not as white and slavic as theys like to present themselves. Islam did not come by force, it has been there for many centuries. And that there are different forms of Islam present, some more free, like Bektashi

- "Georgieff also highlighted how tolerant the Ottomans were for their time. In fact, were it not for the empire's practice of religious plurality - inspired by Islam - there might not have been many medieval Euroepan Jews. When the Catholic Monarchs of Spain, Ferdinand and Isabella, were killing and exiling the Sephardic Jews of the Iberian peninsula during the 15th and 16th centuries, the Ottomans welcomed the refugees into their territories. Sultan Bayezid II actually sent ships to collect them, along with Spanish Muslims, who were all being kicked out for refusing to convert ot Catholicism. Like other non-Muslims, all the Jews had to do to guarantee their safety in the Ottoman territories was pay their taxes. It's true that some rulers abused this and enforced higher taxes on non-Muslims - it wasn't a perfect system - but it was far better than most nother non-Muslim systems in Europe prior to the Enlightenment."

- there were huge waves of mass emigrations in the 1950s', '70s and 80s from Bulgaria due to the banning of Muslim clothing and the Turkish language, the change of place names, and mosques and Ottoman monuments, including cemeteries, defaced or destroyed. People were forced to convert to Christianity and ethnic Turks were forced to change their Muslim names to Slavic ones. Many left for Turkey. The last wave of nearly 360,000 came after the forced name changing of around 800,000 Muslims between 1984 and 1985. Known as the "Big Excusion", it was the largest forced migration in Europe since WW2. The national census the following year had no question of ethnicity. As far as Bulgaria was concerned, everyone was now "Bulgarian".

- A Muslim traveller is not obliged to pray at the designated times and can offer them when it is more practical

- Sarajevo being known as the 'Jerusalem of Europe' in the past

- The cruel practice of Devshirme, where Sultans captured and converted Christian boys who were trained andd educated by the Ottomans. They should be very loyal and had no claims to the throne bc they did not have Muslim ancestry (it was only stopped in the 19th ct)

- "It seems that not only did people of different faiths in the Balkans historically coexist, but the lines between their religious and cultural practices were blurred far more regularly than popular history would have us believe. It was also becoming clear to me that the overt Muslim identity of places like Visegrad, Nis and now Gjirokaster had been deliberately destroyed and reduced to a footnote by those writing the new and alternative narratives. As a result, anyone visiting Gjirokaster today would have no idea that it was once a Balkan centre of Islamic scholarship and Sufism, a place where students of theology and spirituality came to stufy drom all over."

- once again the crazy story of the Haggadah in Sarajevo that was saved by a muslim

[Kevin Burke · Rating 2 out of 5]

Minarets in the Mountains is a travelogue I bought on the basis of the map alone. An interesting, little-written-about part of the world (Bosnia, Serbia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro) where I’ve spent some time travelling myself in recent years. It seemed an ideal choice.

There’s lots that can be written about the six different countries, and though the subtitle – A Journey Into Muslim Europe – and the author’s name indicates that the region’s religion is going to be the main focus, it soon becomes clear that in fact it’s going to be almost the exclusive focus -

I had never met a Muslim Serb before; did they even exist? I wondered as we drove through the spectacular mountain countryside close to the Uvac Special Nature Reserve. The thought of meeting one filled me with excitement.

Just four pages later –

We stopped in front of a map showing the entire region but with a focus on the nearby Gostilje National Park, for which Sjenica was clearly a gateway. Suaid [a local] began reeling off some attractions. “Good for animal, mountains, water…” “Are there more mosques?” I asked.

So the focus is entirely on Islam, and the book effectively becomes a tour of the region’s mosques, with some Ottoman history interspersed. And that’s fine, but such a narrow focus needs an impartial narrator, and Hussain isn’t it. Accusations of Islamophobia are dime-a-dozen. On Mostar’s bridge –

“Did you know that Western ‘experts’ of Bosnia for years couldn’t get themselves to admit that the Ottomans had built the bridge? I kid you not, bro.” I did the bunny ears with my two hands as I said the word ‘experts’. “Damn, the Islamophobia was deep”, said Saleh [a tourist from Manchester], no longer sounding surprised. He was right.

(He cites a Victorian archaeologist here, but later quite rightly notes that the Victorian English were prone to superiority complexes over pretty much anyone). Another Victorian, EF Knight, is Islamophobic for describing the Albanian culture of vengeance as “wild and savage” (In fact, he was entirely right to describe it so, though Hussain doesn’t try find out anything about it). His -

theory that most of western Europe’s xenophobia for eastern Europe is probably wrapped up in historic Islamophobia

is bizarre given that, if nothing else, the vast majority of the Iron Curtain cultures weren’t Islamic. Liam Neeson is Islamophobic for negative criminal portrayals of Albania in film, but ten pages later Hussain walks away from an Albanian Airbnb over a nebulous suspicious feeling about the hosts. The list goes on.

So he’s biased. But is he informative? Well, not really. Half the book goes by before he has a detailed talk with any locals. Even then, it’s a talk with an imam in North Macedonia who bemoans that mosque attendance is falling; he doesn’t even bother with two of the five prayers any more. This raises a question – not considered – as to whether Hussain’s tour is the equivalent of arriving in an Irish town, popping into its church, praising its Christian architecture and history, and drawing all your conclusions on the local area from that. Sometimes it feels as if he’s using the sights to justify his pre-conceived views of the region.

Another problem is his inability to criticise Islam. He quietly bemoans an example of conservative Islam only two pages after being delighted to meet a boy who had memorised the entire Qur’an by age 10. But is it not possible that such an obsession over a book is going to drive excessive adherence to it? The question is never considered. Homosexuality is covered in one, unsatisfactory, paragraph –

My experience of Muslims who took their lead from Saudi-educated scholars told me they certainly would have been uncomfortable with [discussing] this, which is probably why I chose not to bring it up.

No accusations of phobia here though. Increasing Saudi influence is mentioned with slight surprise but nothing more. Apart from his family, who travel with him, and a couple of Airbnb keyholders, he doesn’t talk to any women. The imam chat briefly touches on honour killings (or an honour maiming in this case), but it’s made to sound like an anti-Muslim phenomenon; the example is of a non-Muslim father shooting his daughter for wanting to marry a Muslim. But the reality is that, while honour killings are not an Islamic phenomenon per se, they are far more likely to arise in Muslim communities, not helped by often misogynistic views in Islam (the burqa, which Hussain observes without comment, being the most visible example). The same chat also includes two stories of the imam’s experience with radicalised locals, one of whom declared that

all Muslims should unite to kill all the non-Muslims.

Hussain passes these stories off by saying they’re not true Islam – but they are. They’re real stories, part of the fabric of Islamic culture, and can’t just be waved away. All this unfortunately gets in the way of a fuller understanding of the topic at hand.

Emigration is also barely touched on – it’s a big issue in the Balkans, where some countries have lost 25% of their population since the fall of Communism. Hussain trots out the cliché of the emigrant moving abroad for a better life, and only once, briefly, does he mention the devastating brain drain impact this causes in the departure country. Is it right for western Europe to damage these countries for its own gain? Does it even help contribute to locals with no real job prospects turning to radical Islam? It’s a complicated topic for sure, but not considered.

So what’s left after all that? Some nice bridges, some random acts of kindness, some interesting insights into the Balkan war in Bosnia in particular, a smattering of Ottoman history (though categorised by place, it tended to lack flow and blend into itself after a while), and a couple of places I’d like to visit. And that’s about it.

A wasted opportunity.

[Ibrahim Balushi · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautiful travel journal of a family through Muslim Europe in the Balkans. Written very well and contemporary that feels like a journey more than a historical book (that is beautifully highlights the forgotten European Islamic heritage that coexisted in Europe for centuries).

It also showcases a few historical examples of the life and bravery during the times of Nazi’s, communists, and the Bosnian war from young and old who lived through those times.

[Christopher Boon · Rating 5 out of 5]

I don’t read a lot of travel literature so this was something of a new venture for me. I’ve always been a keen traveller, though, so it immediately piqued my interest and I found myself completely absorbed by it.

Tharik’s is a style of writing that fuses the personal with the universal. His family accompany him on his journey, and this imbues the prose with a sense of warmth and humour. At the same time, the book has been meticulously researched, and Tharik’s knowledge and authority is hugely impressive. This creates a wonderful balance for the reader; nothing feels forced; it’s almost like the vast wealth of information and history in the book comes to us through osmosis. The same is true for terminology. The introductory notes highlight that words such as “Qur’an, Makkah and Madinah are spelt contrary to more common English literary convention” because the anglicised versions have been mispronounced. Therefore, there is an important sense of both linguistic and cultural reclamation throughout the book, very much in keeping with its central narrative: that much of Europe has strong historical links with Muslim history, and this should be not only understood but actively embraced.

Amongst the highlights of the book was the candyfloss anecdote in Novi Pazar. The juxtaposition between the proffering of money and the vendor’s refusal to take it really illustrated the heart of this book for me: travel is about experiencing different cultures, people and lifestyles; about finding oneself touched by small acts of kindness such as this. It reminded me of my first trip to Morocco, in which a kindly hotel owner took pity on my friends and me and allowed the three of us to stay in a twin room, which afterwards we realised was, more than likely, his way of granting hospitality to the musafir; and through Tharik’s book, I feel I have developed a greater understanding of this tradition.

I also enjoyed Tharik’s trip up into the mountains with his friend Idar; having worked in a secondary school myself, I loved the contrast between the caretaker’s persona in the UK and his greeting Tharik in Albania “like a Sicilian don in a smart striped shirt and white cotton trousers”. The car journey and the places they visit are very vivid; very evocatively described; culminating in a scene of great tranquillity and self-discovery.

The final anecdote that stood out for me was the ‘accidental’ tour guide Haris, who more than compensated for the initial disappointment of his having been a last-minute replacement; proof that everyone has a story to tell, and there are always hidden depths to be discovered. Equally, the quiet conversation with Aldin towards the book’s close provided a valuable lesson about the importance of dialogue between communities; for me, it served to sum up the themes of the book concisely.

On a fundamental level, the book achieves the goal of any travel narrative: it made me want to dust off my backpack and head to the various places Tharik encountered on his journey. The book is dripping with not only history but also stunning vistas, architectural richness, exotic food, weird coffee rituals and all the diversity of humanity you could wish for. There are plenty of humorous cultural references as well: Pokemon Go, The Gilmore Girls, Game of Thrones … but my personal favourite was the hat tip to Castle Greyskull (really showing his age there).

In the words of Idar, “You are a good man, Terick”.

[Diarmid · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this. Tharik Hussain is a British Muslim author, travel writer and journalist specialising in Muslim heritage and culture. After discovering Muslim communities in Bulgaria he decides to travel round the Western Balkans with his family, through BiH, Serbia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro, discovering the Muslim areas of Europe. As well as uncovering a part of Europe that's often overlooked, the book also digs in to the history of Ottoman Europe, influenced by seventeenth century Ottoman traveller and writer Evliya Celebi. Though parts can be tough to read, given the tragic recent history of the former Yugoslavia, the book is engaging and charming, and, ultimately, a plea for tolerance and a recognition of Europe's rich and diverse history. Though I picked up the book because I've visited some of the areas Tharik visited, I think it will appeal to readers who are unfamiliar with the region, introducing them to a fascinating area of the world and an almost forgotten part of European history.

[Kenan Cruz Çilli · Rating 3 out of 5]

More accurately described as a travelogue about Muslim men in the Balkans — there’s a very noticeable lack of stories about women. The writing and descriptions flow well but there were some factual mistakes dotted throughout the book:

• While the Ottomans did welcome the Sephardic Jews from Spain, there is no record of Beyazid II sending his navy to collect them. This is a product of historical myth-making surrounding 1492.
•Abdülhamit II was not the last sultan of the Ottoman Empire as the book states. The last sultan was Mehmet VI (known in Turkish as Vahdeddin) who ruled from 1918-1922.
• The döner kebab has been around for centuries, and most certainly existed during Ottoman times. Therefore it’s not absurd for Bosnians to associate the döner with the Ottoman Empire.
• The Ethem Bey mosque in Tirana is not the only Ottoman mosque to have survived the demolitions under Enver Hoxha. The nearby Kokonozi mosque is an additional Ottoman-era mosque in the city.

[Casey · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great concept and sweet travelogue with some glaring issues- seemingly a lot of casual factual errors, prejudice against certain practices of Islam, clunky/unbelievable dialogue, and frankly an inconsistent theme! Why are we comparing everything to Turkey? Are we taking a journey through Muslim Europe or Ottoman Balkans?

[BarelyReads]

I really wish this book was out & I had it with me when I travelled to the Balkans in 2018. It would have been a great resource to know what other places to explore. InshāʾAllāh next time :).

[rara ➶ · Rating 1 out of 5]

what a ride! made a feel a little nostalgic, Tirana my love, but otherwise, LAMEEEEEE

— According to this book Bosniaks are European Turks 😍😍😍😍 whatever that means
— Sarajevo is the Jerusalem of Europe in the weirdest way possible
— no Balkan foods to be found 😫😫 this man only had Turkish food cause then complains about Turkish food not tasting the same as in Turkey????
— Also though the book was published in 2021!!!!! and tripes taken around 2016!!!! the author follows Serb propaganda, and groups Kosovo and Serbia together 😍😍😍😍😍
— and tho Kosovo has the biggest Muslim population in Europe it only gets one tiny weird tomb worshipping chapter 😍😍 oh this Islam!
— Albanians are apparently crazy savages that wanna kidnap his family 😍😍😍 until they’re not
— and ofc no Sunni Muslims to be found in the Balkans apparently 🥰🥰😍😍😍
— and also boza is often a non-alcoholic drink not a low alcoholic drink. like what was that random statement???

need i say more? definitely yes but im sick of this disgusting “book”. 🍅🍅🍅🍅🍅

[Wendelle]

a vivid tour through vibrant communities of Bosnia, Albania, and North Macedonia

[Joanna · Rating 4 out of 5]

I loved seeing the Balkans through Hussain’s eyes as a British Muslim.

[Ahmed · Rating 5 out of 5]

An amazing read and a look into one of the most deliberately overlooked parts of European history. A must read

[Paul · Rating 5 out of 5]

A refreshing portrayal of one man and his family’s escapades into the heart of European Islam. A fascinating study of the cultural geographies of identity and place.
Food for thought for fans of Doreen Massey’s ‘A Global Sense of Place’.

[Will Richards · Rating 2 out of 5]

Meh! Could've been a lot better!! Didn't do the beautiful Balkans justice, many lazy clichés and tropes. Calling Novi Pazar Serbia's dirty little secret, because it has a big population of muslims??!! And Bosnia as a mini Turkey. Bosnia is Bosnia!

[Nadirah · Rating 5 out of 5]

"Minarets in the Mountains" chronicles Tharik Hussain's travels through modern Balkan countries -- namely Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Albania and Montenegro -- in search of the traces of the remnants of Islam from the Ottoman empire times. This is one of my favorite non-fiction reads from last month, as Hussain's account makes for a riveting read, especially if you're familiar with the countries he visited. Even if you haven't been to any of these countries, just googling up the images from the places he visited and reading his description of his exploration of these long-forgotten towns and suburbs are enough to give you an idea of the current state of the countries and its citizens.

What makes this travelogue/memoir so compelling is how well-researched it is -- Hussain includes so many interesting facts and anecdotes about the places he purposely sought out based on his research and compares the past with the present. Along the way, he met several people who helped him along his journey, which forms his impressions of the countries and his fondness for them. His account of the survivors of Bosnia and Herzegovina's massacre and its impact on the country and the surrounding countries are affecting and made even more powerful with all the historical background he included for context in this book.

In short, if you're a fan of this sort of non-fiction, I can highly recommend this read!

[Zach · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 stars rounded down. I was very excited for this travelogue of Muslim Europe - a rare book about the Balkans that focuses on culture instead of war. And, truthfully, there were some interesting places visited with vivid descriptions and the occasional photograph. The big issue with this book, however, is that the author awkwardly (and superficially) tries to fit his agenda onto the trip without doing it successfully. The author readily admits his task is to reveal that Islam is an under-appreciated component of European history and Muslims are not the "others" that segments of European politics suggest they are. I am 100% on board. But then nearly all of his contextualization is based on the Ottoman Empire, which spanned multiple continents with its own distinct identity. I am not sure this rooting really helps with the idea of "otherness." He also bemoans the spread of forms of Islam that reject religious pluralism but actively avoids engaging with the people who hold these beliefs. This means we miss the story of how some Muslims struggle with their European identity.

If you want to know what cities in the Balkans have remaining/active mosques, this book is perfect for you. If you want an interesting travelogue through the Balkans, this book will be just okay. Had the author not tried to weave this thread of identity through the book, or at least dove deeper into it, it would have been a much stronger work.

[Ann Maclennan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed reading this book very much. It was one of those books where I didn’t want it to finish and savouredthe last few pages by reading them slowly. It presents a refreshing alternative take on the usual travel book and certainly opened my eyes to the Islamic influence on a part of Europe I have not visited. It really made me want to see some of this bridges and buildings he described so well. I particularly liked the recounting of the sacred Jewish manuscript being hidden from the nazis which he recounted in the final chapter of the book. What was nice was that this and much else was revealed, or embellished to him by local guides. Alongside all the history you are reminded he travels with his family as there are accounts of ice creams eaten, lots of food descriptions and his young daughters setting their own agenda. While this was a bit irritating I came to find it quite endearing and gave the book presence. The book was enhanced by a map at the front showing ‘direction of travel’ which I much appreciated. The equivalent of a book listing the main characters at its beginning. Really looking forward now to listening to Tharik at my local literature festival.

[Alec · Rating 2 out of 5]

The topic is excellent, and the excitement that Hussain has for his travel through the Balkans is evident as well. It's somewhere between a travel guide, an Ottoman history lesson and a recap of his trip with his family. I'd say that with the historical section, it's fine. As a travel guide, pretty meh. But the worst of all of it is the recap of his trip. He does well with the other sections, but this one is weak. To tell the truth, his dialogues are just abysmal, there's no way that he speaks like this in real life! It made the interactions he had at different mosques and with locals spine-tingling because the dialogue felt so forced, even between him and his wife. I didn't buy it and I got through it because his plan and thoughts on Muslim Europe and European Muslims were interesting, his writing...not so much.

[Humaira · Rating 5 out of 5]

Enjoyed this book although it took me nearly 5 months to finish it!

It’s an intense and through history book on the history of Islam in the Balkans as well as a travelogue of a family discovering their Muslim heritage in Western Europe.

If you’re planning to explore Muslim Balkans then this book is an essential and even if you’re not, this is a great introduction to Islamic history and how rich the history of Islam is and how far it reaches.

[Tony Walton · Rating 1 out of 5]

A casual book on Tharik's travels.

[bookmehnia · Rating 5 out of 5]

{21/2022} 5/5🌟 Non-Fiction 338 pages

I am a person who thoroughly enjoy reading other people’s travelling experiences. Plus, my kind of joy in travelling is looking through all the facts and information of the historical sites I visit. It gives me such joy learning about how certain places can last through time as they are right now.

This book certainly gives me such delight, I wish I could be in the author’s shoes. It all started when his family encountered abandoned mosques during his family trip at a remote village in Bulgaria. Never in one’s knowledge could we relate Islam to Bulgaria, but yes, historically. How could we the Muslims not know of anything like this? Politics, wars and genocides have somehow contributed to this where all the heritage and culture monuments were destroyed in order to eliminate the identity. Time passed, the mixing of religions and cultures have blurred the lines. Or was it Islamophobia? Normal assumptions of Muslims identity - long beard and hijab, but what made the Muslims of the Balkan so important is because they are as European as they are Muslims, as they were not resulted from immigration or converts. They were and are the indigeneous Muslims.

The author and his family moved from Bangladesh to East London at the peak of the racism controversy. The Bulgaria trip has sparked his interest in exploring the Muslim history in Europe specifically the Balkans. The trip was akin to the writer’s spiritual journey where he visited a number of mosques and spiritual sites. I learned about a Muslim town in Serbia, which is more Muslim than any Muslim country, Masha Allah!

Islamophobia is real and it could have started since long before. There have been aggressive attempts in replacing Muslim cultures, and deliberation of destroying them to the extent of writing up new and alternative narratives which is saddening. There are certainly historic blurring of religious lines across the Balkan.

I am so impressed with a number of young people at the places the author visited who knew so much about the history of the places they live in especially regarding the mosques - the art, architecture, and the story behind them. It is sad to know that Islam does develop but it has been a hard journey for the newly reverted, as they receive no support from the government. The sceptical view of the Western countries to this side of the world and relating them to being criminals doesn’t help too.
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Historically, people of different faiths in the Balkans did exist. The Muslims live alongside the Christians and Jews harmoniously eventhough the Muslims ruled the states or countries.
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The radical groups do not make it easy too. Certain group of people certainly contribute in making Islam to be viewed as violent and unfair. Truthfully, Islam is a beautiful religion. It’s heartfelt to read stories of individuals who wanted to challenge Islam, learned about it and fell in love with it.
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As a Muslim myself, I certainly stress the opinion of the importance of “adab” or “manners” in educating the Muslims, let alone the non-Muslims. I think it is certainly the real interpretation of Islam. It’s so proud to know that the author experienced the portrayal of real and actual Muslims throughout his trips - kindness.
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If you enjoy travelling and history, this is a book you don’t want to miss, it could get you start planning for your next trip without realising.
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[Hajira · Rating 2 out of 5]

As a travel chronicle on a place I had almost no prior knowledge of, I would give this 4 stars, but as political commentary it gets 0 stars. I'm not sure if it's the fault of the publisher, the editor, or the author himself, but the insistent, sometimes even awkward insertion of commentary that seems to regard conservative Muslims as latent jihadis was extremely offensive and comes straight out of the Islamophobe playbook. With every male 'character' he introduces, Hussain mentions whether the man is clean-shaven or has a beard and how long the beard is. This obsession with the length of beards is odd and reinforces his bias. At one point (on page 98), the author suggests that following the Prophetic way of keeping a beard suggests narrow-mindededness, intolerance, and jihadi tendencies! All the more disappointing coming from a fellow Muslim. Is it impossible to talk about Muslims without referring to terrorism, extremism, radicalism, and jihad, such that even something as benign as a beard can be a segue to a discussion on extremism? I understand the author has written other travel books on places of interest to Muslims, but I'm very hesitant to read his other works now, knowing that this is his view on people who choose to adhere to the sunnah. Very disappointing.

This book also tries to do too much: it's a travel book, history book, memoir, and political analysis, all wrapped up in something narrated like a novel. As others mentioned, the dialogues seem completely contrived and unnatural, and one wonders how much of it is even accurate. He also seems to want to convince readers that he's an attentive and thoughtful father, but the descriptions of what his family were doing (eg watching Gilmore Girls) were boring and irrelevant.

[Iman · Rating 5 out of 5]

*4.5 What a great book about a portion of the world you don't hear about often. I find that Thariks journey was written so well. His family being on the trip with him was amazing as it set him apart from other travel writers. He does a good job with making his subjects comfortable. The last chapter with Jakov and his trauma really broke me, and Tharik's ability to capture these moments was really great.

My only criticisms: he never really interviewed any women. If Muslim Europe was more conservative I would have understood but that doesn't seem like the case. Also considering his wife was with him, the female perspective would have been valuable. I also felt that at times he was a bit judgey. For example, it seems like some European Muslims have adopted Salafism. Tharik seems to have a problem with Salafism. I get it, it's a controversial issue, but to paint those men as rash young people who don't know any better doesn't seem correct to me. He mentioned he lived in Saudi Arabia and I think his time there traumatized him or something. Anyways could have done with more introspection there.

[Zakir Karim · Rating 5 out of 5]

Tharik Hussain travels through the forgotten cities/towns of the Balkans to explore the historical Islamic monuments, too often disregarded when thinking of Europe. Tharik revitalises the existence of these monuments with his mastery writing - ladened with sincerety, warmth and real connection. He marvels at the history of Islam in Europe, through a unique modern lens coated with centuries of Islamic history. Tharik has the reader captivated as he travels from place-to-place reinvigorating the beautiful Islamic heritage. It feels exhilarating, like the reader is on this very journey with Tharik and his family. He dives into the thinking behind why such a significant part of European history has vanished from memory, education and our books. Tharik also brilliantly dissects the more recent political events and idealogies which attempted to eradicate any semblance of Islamic history. He also brilliantly observes how there is a revival of Islam in the Balkans, with the new generation proud of their history and culture. Excellently compiled. Exquisitely written. Exceptionally executed.

[Thomas Heron · Rating 4 out of 5]

⭐️3.9 stars. Tharik Hussain, an east Londoner with Bangladeshi background, tells the story of his travels through the Balkans, focusing on the European Muslim history that has shaped this region. The journey goes through Bosnia and Herzegovina, north Macedonia, Serbia, Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro.

I felt the book started off a bit slow but definitely picked up! I really appreciated the fact that the author used local stories and people to tell the history and experience of the area. I found it very interesting to learn about the Ottoman Empire and more recent wars and how this has impacted the landscape of the area, especially because this is somewhere that I would like to visit myself.
I did like the overall content but felt there could have been a bit more flow with the writing, sometimes there were details that I didn’t understand were relevant and sort of acted to break the flow of the writing.

In all a good interesting read with important history of the region. It definitely opened my eyes to the heritage and long history of Islam in Europe.

[Alexander Günther · Rating 3 out of 5]

Ich bin kein sonderlich großer Freund der Reaktivierung von Religion in unserer Zeit. Ob gemäßigt oder fundamendalistisch - in meinen Augen kann aus dieser Richtung keine relevante Antwort auf die drängende Fragen unserer Zeit kommen. Dementsprechend las ich die alles andere als unparteiischen Ausführungen von Tharik Hussain mit zunehmender Skepsis. Aus der vermeintlichen Ablehnung des christlich geprägten Europas gegenüber dem Islam baut der Autor bei seiner Suche nach muslimischer Kultur auf dem Balkan (die tatsächlich sehr interessant und wissenswert sind) ein Szenario auf, nachdem vom Christentum stets Agression und Dogma ausging, während der Islam wiederum allzeit für Toleranz und Bildung stand. Außerdem empfand ich den Stil seiner Reisebeschreibungen teilweise als sehr gestelzt und auf eine ungelenke Art pathetisch.

[Barbara · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a really interesting book about a journey through six Balkan countries on the trail of the Muslim heritage. The most interesting parts were about the present-day and the people the author met, so it's a pity that this aspect wasn't as prominent as the long discourses on history and architecture (thank goodness for internet photographs, I say). I was sorry he only spent a few hours in Kosovo (the only one one of the six countries I have visited) because it is so much more interesting than he presented it; and how could he write about Albania without mentioning Ismael Kadare? The style was somewhat pedestrian and the author is a master of the dangling modifier. But on the whole, really interesting and a very useful reference book.