Black Designers in American Fashion

by Elizabeth Way (Editor)

From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs.

In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century “star” designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today.

Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

Genres: Fashion, History, Nonfiction, Fashion History

288 pages, Paperback

Published August 26, 2021

Reviews

[Shawn · Rating 5 out of 5]

The history of "Black Designers in American Fashion" embodies the historical past until the present, highlighting the bold creativity of modern elegance exuded today. The intersection of Black fashion with African American culture, art, music, literature and politics captures the essence of how fashion is a force that transcends race and identity to include national pride and global recognition. Black Fashion Designers signify the economic, political and social shifts within American society and beyond. Elizabeth Way's excellent book illustrates the magnificent contributions of the Black American design aesthetic. The rich history of acknowledging a black dressmaker and designer, Elizabeth Keckley creating the gowns worn by Mrs. Abraham Lincoln and Tracy Reese dressing Mrs. Michelle Obama document important achievements heralded in American fashion and beyond!

[Briana]

Fashion studies is a historically under-researched discipline, and Black fashion history is even more so. Black Designers in American Fashion edited by Elizabeth Way is a collection of twelve scholarly essays that cover Black design from the 18th century to our contemporary times. The way Black Americans have had agency in the way we dress has been with us since our ancestors were first brought to the Americas. Throughout history, certain dressmakers, tailors, seamstresses, and designers have been lost to time. Many of them were forgotten, but this collection does its best to honor people from each period in time. This and Threads of Time: The Fabric of History: Profiles of African American Dressmakers and Designers, 1850-2003 by Rosemary E. Reed Miller are extremely important books to start learning about Black Fashion History. I am so grateful that I was able to read from both.

[Alexis · Rating 5 out of 5]

This collection of essays is well researched and thought provoking. I’ve noted so many topics I want to continue to learn about. The essay that covers Elizabeth Keckley’s life has left a lasting impression on me.

[Jessica Frankovich · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved this collection of essays that outlines a clear thread (pardon the pun) from the buried history of enslaved seamstresses to the more well-known designers of the late 20th century. The highlights for were learning about Elizabeth Keckly, Ann Lowe and Ruth Bailey.

[Mark Bieraugel · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent set of essays on Black American fashion designers. Particularly strong in discussions of the last 60 years.

[Zoe Taylor · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fabulous collection of scholarship. Extensively researched and extremely insightful.