This was an enchanting read for me. Did I agree with some of the judgments or equivocations to interpretation that the author made? NO, no, no. But regardless, I super enjoyed her adventurous journey and imparted tale of a February month long personal survey in Sicily.
And did she, her husband and the people who showed them some out of the way places, all of them, did they experience a wide spectrum. It told me much about Francine Prose and her husband. As much as it did about Sicily itself. That's also what a memoir should do. And it did that fully to a 5 star level. Elite observation. All the way from Messina to Palermo. And everywhere around the coast.
She was tremendous and sublime at her descriptions of the Carnivale. And I loved her emotional responses to the "icky" stuff. There's a lot of it. It seems only the tourist level funerary really got to her.
Yet throughout the 180 or so pages- Sicily does exhibit. Not into its fullest complexity of mistrust greatly earned, but into its brashness factors especially. Also well earned.
Silence to the outsider, full throated and full movement exhilaration to each other of "known". Strict patriarchal and control sensibilities for reasons beyond explaining. Abundance of expression and visuals within rock poverty deprivation and violent "eyes" memory.
This is a book you will enjoy the most if you know Greek and other ancient myths, poems, contexts to historic events and especially the most famous authors, artists, noble honored of Sicily's 3000 year known past from all the conquerors' cultures. Francine was supremely well suited to guide some of those cleanly into the present. Placements and uses.
Most Sicilian towns, small to mid-sized of population are different from each other. Yet the language, the manner, and graveness in depth general. So true. I loved her building and "fixer" of structures tales as she met them.
So Sicilian to have no parking. It's planned. Believe me. They most want to see your exhaust driving away. And they are crude enough to let you know too. Most of the time,
The food passage about flour, eggs, olive oil, garlic, cheese (fresh goat ricotta) with fish at the shore and meat inland- absolutely spot on. Best in the world. IMHO.
I've inherited it all except for the great love of sweets and gooey. But a good fresh just made cannoli would never be refused.