What a delightful way to discover the most remarkable harbour in the world. It’s a cultural, geographical, industrial, historical, colonial, maritime, political, sporting, architectural account of Sydney Harbour. Bevan’s vehicle is his kayak. Starting near Rhodes on the Parramatta River, we paddle and probe and poke our way to Parramatta along the southern shores, heading back east on the northern shores, in and out of bays, pulling up on beaches, chatting to residents, workers, sailors and fisherfolk all the way to Manly, across the heads and back along the southern shores past the Quay and back to Rhodes.
I’ve grown up with so many significant Sydney Harbour experiences. Crossing the Harbour Bridge singing “Delta Dawn” at the top of our voices in my friend’s car on our way to an end-of-year Luna Park under 9’s soccer team party, the school excursion harbour cruises, bursting out of the darkness of the Wynyard tunnel into the light and water and cruisers and ferries of Circular Quay, spending New Year’s Eve 2017 on the Lavender Bay waterfront... For a boy who grew up not in Balmoral or Balmain, but in suburban Peakhurst, it’s remarkable how resonant Sydney Harbour has been in my life, how much it has formed my sense of place in this city.
My wife and I undertook a number of great Harbourside walks in recent years and out of that I had a desire to find “the book” that might explain the Harbour as your discover it on say, the Spit to Manly walk, or Rose Bay to Watson’s Bay, or Bradley’s Head to Balmoral. Its coves, castles, forts, mansions, barracks, parks, wharves, ruins, shacks, beaches, islands, rivers and headlands - where was that book that would explain and unlock this remarkable mystery bag?
Right here. It’s thorough enough to be satisfying, paced in such a way not to be dense. It’s reads like a walk - or paddle - around the Harbour, because that’s what it is. A tad random, shaped by the next boathouse, slipway, passing conversation or unfolding view.
It’s been great sharing the many miles as a passenger aboard Bevan’s one-person kayak. I suspect many will climb aboard and share the journey, the stories, the history and the unexpected discoveries as they bob and paddle with him around this remarkable estuary.