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The Road to San Donato: Fathers, Sons, and Cycling Across Italy

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The Road to San Donato is an adventurous travel memoir of an American father and son tracing their Italian heritage by bicycle. With only the bare essentials on their backs, author Robert Cocuzzo and his sixty-four-year-old father, Stephen, embark on a torturous 425-mile ride from Florence, Italy, to San Donato Val di Comino, an ancient village hidden in the Apennine mountains from which their family emigrated a hundred years earlier. After getting lost, beaten down, and very nearly stranded, when they finally reach the village the Cocuzzos discover so much more than their own family story.

For many Jews in the 1940s, the road to San Donato was one of exile; during World War II, dozens were interned in the village. When the Nazis came to ship them off to death camps, however, many of the villagers went to heroic lengths to save their lives. Walking and pedaling through this history, Robert Cocuzzo is determined to learn the role his family played at the time. The Road to San Donato is a story of fathers and sons, discovering lost "cousins," valorous history, and the challenge and exhilaration of traveling by bicycle.

224 pages, Hardcover

Published August 30, 2019

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Robert Cocuzzo

3 books10 followers

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5 stars
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97 (41%)
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25 (10%)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews
Profile Image for Marc.
1,001 reviews136 followers
August 24, 2020
My wife surprised me with this gift and rightly knew it would resonate with me on many levels (as a son, as a father, as a person with paternal Italian roots, and as a cyclist). But just because a person likes or shares certain topics/similarities, doesn't mean a book will succeed with them. This is where Cocuzzo brings it all together---he manages to tell a rather quick-paced tale of his journey with his father back to their family's roots in San Donato, Italy. They decide to make it extra interesting by biking 500 miles of the journey and doing it while uncertain grandpa will still be alive when they return. It ended up being a touching and delightful look at family relationships, the complexities of father-son relationships, and how history and family intertwine.
Profile Image for Nancy Peterson.
1 review1 follower
September 13, 2019
I know I’ve thoroughly enjoyed a book when I’ve heavily underlined it. This one’s filled with graphite! I laughed out loud, I got teary, I was incredulous, and I was drawn right into this true story. I quickly became transfixed and was transported by Rob Cocuzzo’s skillful way with words. I felt as if I were doing all that pedaling.... and I am in no way an extreme cyclist.
Three captivating stories intertwine in this “unputdownable” tale. There is the excruciatingly exhilarating recounting of a physically, brutally demanding, intense yet glorious bicycle trip from Florence to Rome, through Tuscany to San Donato Italy in the Apennine Mountains.
There’s also the heartwarming, intimate story of the father and son who took this trip to honor the author’s dying Grandfather, who had never visited the village of his ancestors (San Donato), which also provided the opportunity for the father and son to get to know each other on a deeper level, at a time in their lives, when the author (son) is about to get married and start a family. And, as eventually happens as children become adults and parents get older, they shifted into a reversal of their familiar roles. It’s this honest delving into an accounting of, understanding of and evolution of family relationships that really gets to the heart of what matters, and enriches us the most....family.
The third aspect is an historical one that has a profound personal impact on the author and his father. The town of San Donato played a role during WWll. It was a place where Jews were interned under Mussolini’s fascist rule, and subsequently, the Nazis came to the city with the intent to send those Jews to their death in concentration camps. The author brings to light the different choices townspeople made in the face of tyranny, causing this reader to examine personal choice in that impossible circumstance.
I love this book for all of its adeptly drawn themes and for the evolution and illustration of the compelling characters.
I think it will also make a spellbinding movie, but read the book before that happens and make your own pictures from the author’s vivid and deft word drawings.
383 reviews6 followers
January 13, 2020
I almost feel guilty for not loving this book, but it just didn't resonate with me. Some things felt contrived - the knee problems, the helpful former neighbor, navigation issues with Strava. I think I was looking for more of the experience of riding cross country, where this was some soul searching mashed up with the Diary of Anne Frank. And one of the few passages describing the scenery wound up going on about African prostitutes.
In it's defense, riding a bike for hundreds of miles is pretty boring most of the time. I just didn't feel I got a good picture of the trip and the people encountered on the way. The history was interesting for the most part. I feel like there was going to be more with the ancestors role due to the many questions, and even some unfulfilled foreshadowing with the bike rental company being adamant about notifying them of any damage to the bikes. A good read but not what I expected.
Profile Image for Joe Quintiliani.
8 reviews
August 27, 2023
I came upon this book by chance, as my Quintiliani ancestors also hail from the small mountain-side village of San Donato.
Although I had heard stories about San Donato from relatives, I had no idea about the historical context in relationship to World War 2 and found this to be both tragic and inspiring.
Even without such a personal connection though, any father or son would be able to relate to this journey and enjoy the way in which Robert and his father truly made such a special connection during their travels. Beautiful story and highly recommended!
Profile Image for Briana.
55 reviews
November 27, 2025
I loved this book! My grandparents are from San Donato and to see it through someone else’s eyes was so special. I didn’t know any of the WWII history and it brought me to tears to learn of the bravery and heroism of the San Donatese people ❤️

I’m also a writer and set my fantasy novel in SD so it was especially cool to read another book set against the backdrop of this magical village.

Thank you for sharing your story, Robert!
1 review
September 14, 2019
To steal a cyclist phrase, "I clipped into the pedals", but for me the vehicle of transportation was the book and I kept on reading! Cocuzzo's skill with words transported me along side father and son through Tuscany, Rome and up and up through the Apennine Mountains of Italy. It held me in suspense as to what they would discover when they reached their destination, San Donato Val di Comino. The book is filled with raw honesty, revelation, appreciation and courage mirroring, as they would discover, the same attributes that this little village displayed in its historical archives when fascism snaked it foul body into that peaceful mountain village. Cocuzzo's examinations of his father's idiosyncrasies lightened this grueling adventure and left me laughing along the way. Highly recommend this book, something for everyone. AJS, Wellesley
1 review1 follower
September 7, 2019
You don't need to be a father/son, Italian or a cyclist to be captured by this book. You just have to be part of the human experience! Rob Cocuzzo voices for you what's often so hard to put into words.... the significance of family, the joyful highs and devastating lows we all experience in our own minds, struggles and successes, the joys of life and the sadness of grief. His honesty is palpable; his writing and story telling abilities appear effortless!
MJM, Plymouth MA
1 review1 follower
September 12, 2019
If you have a father, you will love this book. If you have a son, you will love this book. If you have a family (and a family history) you will love this book. Rob seamlessly weaves family, adventure, history, travel and religion into a page-flippin' literary masterpiece. If you only read one book this year (or decade, if you're like me) make it 'The Road to San Donato'.

I also highly recommend Rob's first book, 'Tracking the Wild Coomba'. Good stuff.
1 review1 follower
September 15, 2019
Rob’s trip takes him on a journey to discover his roots, father and ultimately himself. The book was honest and vulnerable and I thoroughly enjoyed being apart of the adventure!
Profile Image for Paul Kiczek.
39 reviews5 followers
March 13, 2021
If life is a journey, then the best moments happen when we have the courage to take a different route. This is a story of a coming of age for three men. The author, Rob, convinces his dad, Stephen, to join him on a discovery bike trip through Italy with the goal of visiting their ancestral village, San Donato. Rob’s grandfather (“Papa”) is seriously ill and is near the end of his life. While Papa was part of a first born generation in the U.S., many of the people that settled in their Brighton neighborhood had come from the same village. Rob concocts the idea of a bike trip to understand Papa’s family background and vicariously provide a trip for Papa before it is too late.

While Rob seems to have a good relationship with dad, it’s obvious that Stephen is not your average father. He’s extremely independent, has obsessive habits and tends to love wild challenges, even at the age of 64. He also manages to commute to work on a “fixie”, which is a sure mark that he is already a badass cyclist. The image we get is of an aged-out hippie that is true to his core of beliefs who is a great father, but is not fully understood by Rob. With Papa slipping away and dad becoming a senior citizen, Rob sees the serendipity of the moment to enlist his father as his companion on a 500 mile trip from Florence to San Donato. As Rob says to Stephen, “We’ll go for Papa.”

While the experiences in the towns along the way are brief and somewhat interesting the real benefit is in overcoming the physical and mental challenges along the way. Once at San Donato, the revealing of the family history and the gracious hospitality there is an unexpected reward. Within a few days in the village, they have a change of perspective and a different appreciation for the importance of history and our ancestry. The village has a surprise story of courage and community during the days of Fascism that brings wonder and pride to both father and son.

I’ve taken a couple long distance bike rides over the past few years. Riding with others can be difficult because of the push and pull of each rider’s skills and conditioning. But, the reward is to discover more about that person, share your own personal story and to motivate each other. There can be no better pairing than father and son to benefit from this opportunity. Any son or father naturally looks back at the mystery of each other and desires at some point to know and understand more - even though that always has its limits. Each fact we discover inevitably reveals something about ourselves too.

The author has a casual style of writing which exposes a mixture of personal feelings and humor which makes for an easy and enjoyable read. The pace of the book and its subject matter is fast and complete as it goes from the start of the idea of the trip to its final conclusion and slightly beyond leaving a very satisfying ending.
Profile Image for Paul Kiczek.
39 reviews5 followers
March 13, 2021
If life is a journey, then the best moments happen when we have the courage to take a different route. This is a story of a coming of age for three men. The author, Rob, convinces his dad, Stephen, to join him on a discovery bike trip through Italy with the goal of visiting their ancestral village, San Donato. Rob’s grandfather (“Papa”) is seriously ill and is near the end of his life. While Papa was part of a first born generation in the U.S., many of the people that settled in their Brighton neighborhood had come from the same village. Rob concocts the idea of a bike trip to understand Papa’s family background and vicariously provide a trip for Papa before it is too late.

While Rob seems to have a good relationship with dad, it’s obvious that Stephen is not your average father. He’s extremely independent, has obsessive habits and tends to love wild challenges, even at the age of 64. He also manages to commute to work on a “fixie”, which is a sure mark that he is already a badass cyclist. The image we get is of an aged-out hippie that is true to his core of beliefs who is a great father, but is not fully understood by Rob. With Papa slipping away and dad becoming a senior citizen, Rob sees the serendipity of the moment to enlist his father as his companion on a 500 mile trip from Florence to San Donato. As Rob says to Stephen, “We’ll go for Papa.”

While the experiences in the towns along the way are brief and somewhat interesting the real benefit is in overcoming the physical and mental challenges along the way. Once at San Donato, the revealing of the family history and the gracious hospitality there is an unexpected reward. Within a few days in the village, they have a change of perspective and a different appreciation for the importance of history and our ancestry. The village has a surprise story of courage and community during the days of Fascism that brings wonder and pride to both father and son.

I’ve taken a couple long distance bike rides over the past few years. Riding with others can be difficult because of the push and pull of each rider’s skills and conditioning. But, the reward is to discover more about that person, share your own personal story and to motivate each other. There can be no better pairing than father and son to benefit from this opportunity. Any son or father naturally looks back at the mystery of each other and desires at some point to know and understand more - even though that always has its limits. Each fact we discover inevitably reveals something about ourselves too.

The author has a casual style of writing which exposes a mixture of personal feelings and humor which makes for an easy and enjoyable read. The pace of the book and its subject matter is fast and complete as it goes from the start of the idea of the trip to its final conclusion and slightly beyond leaving a very satisfying ending.
136 reviews
August 27, 2022
Unlike other “road to” books, Robert Cocuzzo’s engaging 2019 book chronicles more than just a physical journey. The story involves a cycling trek in Italy in search of a dying grandfather’s ancestral history, his “Papa” who never visited the immigrant family’s roots in the old country.

Cocuzzo invites his 64-year old father on the trip, a dedicated cyclist, reckless, accident-prone and seemingly crazy pedaling a fixed gear bike. While generally fit, neither is prepared for an arduous 450-mile mountainous circuit from Florence to San Donato, a centuries old village in the Apennine Mountains south of Rome.

With knee pain and a snapped cable, the road physically challenges both travelers for sure. More importantly, however, is their psychological and emotional work, peeling back the layers of their father-son relationship, and uncloaking how family history affected them both.

Candidly exposing painful aspects about himself, the author surprises his father, for example, about his depression. Cocuzzo also offers insights into how the trip seems to be changing his stoic father’s outlook on life.

In refreshing asides to the reader, he allows us glimpses into his own thinking, employing italics for numerous personal reactions. Besides his writing making a personal connection with me, I found his style energy-packed, his phrasing creative and his character insights disarming.

A bonus for me was Cocuzzo’s recounting of Italian cycling legend Gino Bartali’s efforts during World War II leveraging his championship fame to assist the underground resistance. The book Road to Valor documents his bravery sheltering Jews and smuggling counterfeit identification papers inside his bike frame past fascist checkpoints.

After reaching San Donato and learning some of its history from numerous relatives, all “cousins” in some fashion, the author pursues a similar history of war bravery among villagers protecting Jews during the war.
Profile Image for Holly.
1,382 reviews34 followers
October 17, 2021
The further into this book I got, the more I loved it. It is one of my favorite memoirs I’ve ever read.

Several years ago I traveled through Florence, Siena, Tuscany, and Rome along the same path they traveled on this trip. I definitely didn’t make the trip on a bicycle like they did, but as the author was describing the scenery, roads, people and towns, I could picture it in my head like it was yesterday and I was completely transported back there. I loved reliving that experience.

I was very pleasantly surprised by the amount of Italian history that Cocuzzo interjects throughout this book, particularly during the years of WWII. It was fascinating and I learned so much that I had never heard before.

Of course the heart of this story is the relationship between the author and his father as they travel through Italy on this bike trip. It was was a wonderful experience to watch their relationship grow exponentially deeper and closer over a few weeks. It was also wonderful to see them connect so deeply with the people and town of San Donato where their family was from.

Highly recommend. October is Italian-American Heritage Month. Reading this book felt like a great way of honoring Italian heritage in the U.S.
1 review1 follower
September 29, 2019
THE ROAD TO SAN DONATO is an honest brilliantly written story about the author and his dad who discover their physical, emotional and spiritual commitments to each other and their ancestral beginnings . The deep connection between this father and son team will fill your heart with love and questions about your own family and relationships within. I found myself recalling times of sadness in my own life . I was filled with tears at moments and giggling about my own Italian characteristics during other moments. If you are Italian you will love this book, if you are not Italian, you will love this book. Either way, read this beautiful true story. It’s the best book I have read in a long time.
68 reviews1 follower
February 6, 2020
I hope this book finds it's audience. Cocuzzo is a good writer and this is a good story about the importance of family and connections. The story is told around a trip that the author does with his father, riding rente bicycles roughly 450 miles across Italy to the village of their family's ancestry. Cocuzzo does a great job of making his characters (which is an apt description of his nonconformist father) fully dimensional and real. For me, the first part of this story was pleasant but I really loved the end. It was touching in a way that you know a story has hit it's mark. Good work. Good read.
2 reviews
September 26, 2019
This book is an absolute joy to read! I tore though it in just a few days, which I don't normally make the time to do. I felt like I was right there along with the author and his father. Feeling the pain of the grueling ride, the curse of raw emotions, the love of family, the guilt of being "too late" to talk to our loved ones and the joy of traveling, especially in Italy! It entices one to want to include a stop in San Donato for a tour of the historical village with the locals, on your next Italian adventure. Bravo to the author, Robert Cocuzzo!
Profile Image for Jen.
3 reviews
September 30, 2019
I just finished this book moments ago and am honestly devastated that the story is over. As someone who has known the author and his father....and his grandfather....for most of my life I especially loved how anecdotes from the past were effortlessly weaved into the cycling journey and the family’s history as it related to San Donato. The cycling trip is nothing I could ever do physically but I felt as though I was biking right alongside them through the Italian countryside. This book was an amazing celebration of family and love and I wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it to anyone.
19 reviews1 follower
January 28, 2020
I will preface my review with a disclaimer: this is extremely biased. Growing up in an Italian American household just north of Boston, I could immediately relate to this story, even if I have no passion for cycling. At its core this is a story of a parent and child bonding, learning more about each other and themselves. While I was very entertained by the retelling of their trek across Italy, it also made me reflect upon my own family dynamic, the things I have come to know about my parents and question how deep is my knowledge of my family's past.
1,322 reviews5 followers
March 15, 2020
I really enjoyed this book but it was more tragic to read knowing how much Italy is experiencing a major disaster. Coccuzzo is a gifted writer and I particularly loved his recounting of the history of Jews in Italy. It is also the story of his family as he questions relations, stories told and not told. It was a stunning psychological portrait without the analysis of what may be lurking unearth the relationships. I am not an adrenaline junked so that part was harder to relate to for me but for those who are, you will find that aspect of the book fascinating. Highly recommend.
Profile Image for Annagrace.
410 reviews22 followers
September 30, 2020
A beautiful story of fathers and sons, and locating one’s self and identity within the messy tangle of 20th century history. The Road to San Donato travels back and forth between descriptions of the author’s adrenaline-obsessed father and emotional glimpses of an Italian village’s resistance to fascism during WWII, and then turns graciously to a difficult great-grandfather, a beloved grandfather, a maddening puzzle of a father, and the author’s curiosity and worries about his own future parenting choices. There is no pacing problem here. The book clips along and then slows down, exactly where the reader wants it to, managing a delightful balance of levity and depth. I really enjoyed it!
209 reviews1 follower
November 17, 2020
A great read, and really fun to listen to, since I couldn’t get a copy. Enjoyed it so much I listened to it twice while traveling.. Great insights into our roots in “the old country” family and connection. The fact that it was done on bike with his father made it very rich. Though would’ve enjoyed a more balanced perspective on gender relationships than women cooking and men hanging out playing in courtyards.
Profile Image for Dan "Nim" Salvucci.
38 reviews
August 30, 2022
My great grandfather moved to Boston from San Donato. This story is so very similar to my own family story. We do not cycle but many of the smaller tales of finding the stories behind our family members are the same. I have toyed with the idea of going to San Donato, for my father, and his father. To find some kind of connection in that place. This book was much more than it appeared on the surface. Thank you for telling this story and sharing your family with the rest of us.
Profile Image for Shannon.
447 reviews48 followers
July 27, 2024
4.5 stars. I really enjoyed The Road to San Donato -- it's got Italy, familial relationships, a cycling adventure, and history. This book made me laugh out loud a few times, and tear up numerous times. Grandfathers always get me. 💔 I have some small quibbles about things I didn't love, like the cheesy quotes at the start of each chapter, but overall this is a great book. It helps that I love Italy so much and many of the towns and Italian mannerisms felt familiar.
1 review
October 27, 2019
The Road to San Donato: Fathers, Sons and Cycling Across Italy is a great read. Well-written, honest and fast-paced. Beautifully captures the family dynamic between fathers and sons, the challenges and joys of cycling, the colorful characters they meet on their journey, and the beauty of small town Italy.
Profile Image for Alex Buchanan.
2 reviews
April 26, 2022
The book is well researched and written with eloquence. However, with all the grace and respect to the subject matter and story, I expected the climax to be more impactful for a general reader, not just an empath. It’s absolutely worth the read with its ability to take you to another place and time as though you’re along for the journey.
Profile Image for Elizabeth Wagner.
64 reviews
April 24, 2024
I’d round it up to a 3.5. Maybe I am a little non-fictioned out at this point, the book was okay but I didn’t feel excited to read it and it had a hard time holding my attention. It’s wholesome and informative about world war 2, and additionally I learned a lot about the tribulations of long bike trips, but overall not really my type of book.
21 reviews
October 29, 2019
Cocuzzo does an amazing job of blending adventure travel, real, raw family emotion, and lesser known cultural history throughout The Road to San Donato. Beautiful written, comical, and emotional all at the same time. There's something for just about everyone in this story, I highly recommend!
Profile Image for Kristina Ciari.
43 reviews1 follower
November 17, 2019
Wow. I loved this book, and I came in with high expectations having also really enjoyed Tracking the Wild Coomba. This is so much more than a story about biking across Italy. Family. War. Love. History. Place. The author captures all of this and more. I couldn’t put it down!
Profile Image for Susan.
898 reviews5 followers
May 5, 2020
Loved it, loved it! I felt like I was riding along with Rob and Stephen on this journey. It was about a lot more than a bicycle ride. There were a lot of lessons about love, forgiveness and taking chances. Highly recommend this book.
Profile Image for Susan.
106 reviews6 followers
July 19, 2020
Loved this story of a father and son biking through Italy to the small village of their ancestors. The author shares the complexity of family relationships, some of the history of Italy especially during WWII and his own journey coming to know his father and himself better. Highly recommend!
Displaying 1 - 30 of 47 reviews

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