An exploration of British male fashion of the late eighteenth century
“A brilliant account of a controversial moment in men’s self-fashioning.”—Valerie Steele, director and chief curator, Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
The term “macaroni” was once as familiar a label as “punk” or “hipster” is today. In this handsomely illustrated book devoted to notable eighteenth-century British male fashion, award-winning author and fashion historian Peter McNeil brings together dress, biography, and historical events with the broader visual and material culture of the late eighteenth century.
For thirty years, “macaroni” was a highly topical word, yielding a complex set of social, sexual, and cultural associations. Pretty Gentlemen is grounded in surviving dress, archival documents, and art spanning hierarchies and genres, from scurrilous caricature to respectful portrait painting. Celebrities hailed and mocked as macaroni include politician Charles James Fox, painter Richard Cosway, freed slave Julius “Soubise,” and criminal parson Reverend Dodd. The style also rapidly spread to neighboring countries in cross-cultural exchange, while Horace Walpole, George III, and Queen Charlotte were active critics and observers of these foppish men.
"Pretty Gentleman: Macaroni Men and The Eighteen Century Fashion World", de Peter McNeil, versa sobre um tema muito específico e muito caro para mim: os "macaronis" ingleses do século 18, precursores dos dândis, com suas roupas apertadas, perucas gigantescas, gírias afrancesadas e sexualidade fluída. Burgueses parodiando a afetação aristocrata, um ex-escravo afrontando a sociedade, jovens voltando de viagens ao exterior e chocando os pais com moda, teatralidsde e androginia, muito antes de David Bowie (que se inspiraria neles). Esse é o primeiro livro que encontro que aborda o tema de modo completo: analisa os macarônis como fenômeno social, econômico, sexual e cultural, e é bastante completo. Também é fartamente ilustrado, com todas as principais ilustrações envolvendo macarônis no século 18 inglês.
Beautifully designed, and a great social history of this fascinating subculture of extreme dandyism, copiously illustrated, discussing fashion, satire, caricature, the theater, and queer studies as they relate to the English ‘Macaronis’ of the latter third of the 18th century. Recommended!
I was very much looking forward to reading this and I wasn't disappointed. The book itself is beautifully illustrated throughout, with an emphasis on eighteenth century print culture. To say the research is extensive is an understatement. There are enough primary and secondary sources listed here to keep any cultural historian busy for quite some time. These are synthesised into an argument that is both deeply considered and nuanced. The writing style is lucid, accessible and highly engaging. A definite must read for anyone interested in the more queer aspects of early modern British social and cultural history.
This was very interesting and so thorough, however, it was difficult to get through, and I only read short amounts at one time. I don't know if it is intended to be for a more academic audience, but it is written in an extremely academic style. Don't expect a quick popular history book, this is for serious fashion historians. It is well illustrated and is of a high quality of printing and I am glad I read it, but I definitely needed to pace myself.
a beautiful book about a phenomenon most have forgotten. If it wasn't for the Yankee Doodle song most people would not have heard of the term "macaroni" as it pertains to male dandies of the late 18th century. This fascinating book looks at satirical cartoons, theatre, diaries, recollections, and (of course) the clothes and wigs of the period to discuss the impact and meaning of the movement. The writing can get a little academic for my taste, but overall I found it fascinating.
This book explores the fashion of the Macaroni men in the 18th century. Sadly, though a beautiful book I didn't get on well with it as it focused more on caricatures of them instead of the fashion itself. Also the writing itself was poorly edited and very repetitive, often the same information mentioned more than once in a slightly different sentence. Such a shame as books on men's fashion in that era are less easy to find!
My first purchase from a New Yorker squib review - going to be more careful in the future. It was an expensive book too, $40 or $45 I didn’t learn much and it wasn’t worth it. Another drip drip of knowledge into the sponge that is my brain. On a better note, the pages are really thick and pleasant to turn - part of the quality and construction of a book that I really appreciate.
Brilliant scholarship which combines anthropology, gender studies, and culture studies to show the significance of the macaroni subculture and its relation to nation building, fashion, and literature.