Subtitled, “Across the Sahara in the Shadow of Jihad,” this book sees author Nicholas Jubber attempting to travel across the desert. In particular, he wants to follow the journey of Leo Africanius, a Sixteenth Century explorer, who travelled to the Kindgom of the Songhay in 1507. Jubber admits readily that he has long been entranced by the desert and by the nomads who live there. However, his attempts to join a caravan on a journey of his own is not well timed. The cities of North Africa were (and many still are) experiencing revolution, war and sectarianism.
We follow his attempts to learn how to live in the desert and his journeys in North Africa; including Timbuktu, working in a tanning factory in Fez, travelling to Azrou in the Moroccan highlands and other places – including the forbidden, dangerous border between Morocco and Mauritania. When Jubber arrived in Timbuktu it was 393 years later than Leo Africanus in 1507. Then it was a grand regional power – not it is widely considered, even by those who live there, as the middle of nowhere…
The author does a good job of explaining what is happening in this dangerous, turbulent part of the world and draws parallels between earlier violence, as experienced by the long ago traveller Africanius, and current events. He also tells of lessons he experiences in the desert and of his attempts to travel in a very hostile environment and extremely dangerous political situations.
This was an interesting read. I enjoyed reading of Jubber’s experiences, the people he meets and of his struggles with the language (aided, remarkably, by rap music) and of his attempts to meet nomads. I recalled reading Wilfred Thesiger’s travel books so long ago and felt saddened that this part of the world is in such turmoil. The only problem with this, is that the book jumped around so much and, as Jubber often failed to do exactly what he hoped to (albeit through no point of his own) it was, ultimately, not quite the travel book you felt he wished to write.