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The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style
With the popularity of Outlander, Penny Dreadful and Game of Thrones as well as the popularity of conventions like San Diego Comic Con, fans are eager to create period gowns that emulate the characters they love. Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, owners of the popular online store American Duchess, have teamed together to recreate four complete dresses from the 18th century. Whether readers are experienced seamstresses or are new to hand sewing, they won't want to miss this comprehensive guide.
The projects include: The English Gown, The Sacque, The Italian Gown and The Round Gown. Each project is broken down into easy-to-follow steps and Lauren and Abby tackle every detail fabric, patterns, stitch techniques, accessories, shortcuts and troubleshooting. Whether you choose a romantic 1790s muslin gown or a grand sacque gown of silk taffeta, you will feel like you just stepped out of your favorite novel or period of history.
Lauren and Abby's company, American Duchess, has been featured on Late Night with Seth Meyers, Reno Gazette Journal, the Today Show and Garmz.com. Their historically accurate shoes have been used in productions by the New York Metropolitan Opera, Ford's Theater, Broadway's Cinderella, The Jimmy Fallon Show and The Knick. Lauren and Abby have over 32k Facebook followers and over 34k followers on Instagram.
The projects include: The English Gown, The Sacque, The Italian Gown and The Round Gown. Each project is broken down into easy-to-follow steps and Lauren and Abby tackle every detail fabric, patterns, stitch techniques, accessories, shortcuts and troubleshooting. Whether you choose a romantic 1790s muslin gown or a grand sacque gown of silk taffeta, you will feel like you just stepped out of your favorite novel or period of history.
Lauren and Abby's company, American Duchess, has been featured on Late Night with Seth Meyers, Reno Gazette Journal, the Today Show and Garmz.com. Their historically accurate shoes have been used in productions by the New York Metropolitan Opera, Ford's Theater, Broadway's Cinderella, The Jimmy Fallon Show and The Knick. Lauren and Abby have over 32k Facebook followers and over 34k followers on Instagram.
240 pages, Paperback
Published November 21, 2017
107 people are currently reading
799 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews
April 8, 2019
First the positives;
It has very detailed instructions (including step by step photographs) for hand sewing which is a positive if you do want to hand sew, it has a lot of attractive photos. The patterns seem to match those in better referenced books and I know some people have made good looking garments. There seems to be research behind it even if it’s not really made explicit in the text itself.
Overall this book has turned out to be a disappointment. The rave reviews on so many historical blogs led me to expect something like the Tudor Tailor (which is a similar price but covers the 16th century) with in depth discussion of how clothes worked, different fabrics (historically and modern substitutes), how clothing varied between classes, and a lot of different patterns with mix & match options like changing sleeves, collars, decoration or accessories as Tudor Tailor covers both men and women I expected more in this book which focuses on just women’s clothing.
This book has 4 dresses (1740s, 1760s, 1780s & 1790s) with accessories, but minus shift or the crucial stays (I expected that meant they had put undergarments in a separate volume to treat them in depth but according to their blog the next book is due out soon about hair & beauty). The sewing instructions could do with some hints for those who want to sew it by machine (even something as simple as ‘this bit must be done by hand it won’t work on a sewing machine’ would be a start). There’s little suggestion in the text itself for variation (there aren’t even images to suggest other ways you could decorate a gown) to avoid a cookie cutter effect. It needs better referencing (occasionally there’s something like ‘the decoration on this dress is based on a 1776 portrait of Mary Smith by Joseph Bloggs’ but it needs more).
The biggest problem is scale, there are patterns drawn on a grid which is indicated as a 1 inch grid but the grid on the paper is not a simple ratio to an inch in real life and every pattern is on a different scale. If you want to enlarge using any sort of measuring device or using a photocopier you’re going to need a calculator and/or a lot of wasted attempts. Instead of planning ahead that this is the paper size therefore I need to scale my patterns so they can fit on this size page at a useable scale they have just drawn patterns and then accepted whatever the ratio happens to be once it’s squeezed onto one full page (e.g. on p. 138 the 1780s ‘Italian gown’ is at 6:25 scale based on measuring a square, good luck getting a photocopier to understand that). Most of the scales are close to a simple ratio and you could just simplify it but every error in the original is magnified when you size it up. Taking the above ratio (6:25) if you simplified the ratio to 5:25 (or 1:5) you are shrinking every measurement by 1/6 meaning a dress will be 1/6 smaller than expected, so, for example if the gown should have a 28 inch waist (an average size 12) it would end up 4 ½ inches too small. I also can’t find where it specifies what measurements the patterns are drafted to fit meaning that grading up or down a size is a step behind where it needs to be.
They do suggest that draping patterns is preferable to flat patterning but as there's no instructions on how to drape a pattern the drafted patterns should be useable.
It has very detailed instructions (including step by step photographs) for hand sewing which is a positive if you do want to hand sew, it has a lot of attractive photos. The patterns seem to match those in better referenced books and I know some people have made good looking garments. There seems to be research behind it even if it’s not really made explicit in the text itself.
Overall this book has turned out to be a disappointment. The rave reviews on so many historical blogs led me to expect something like the Tudor Tailor (which is a similar price but covers the 16th century) with in depth discussion of how clothes worked, different fabrics (historically and modern substitutes), how clothing varied between classes, and a lot of different patterns with mix & match options like changing sleeves, collars, decoration or accessories as Tudor Tailor covers both men and women I expected more in this book which focuses on just women’s clothing.
This book has 4 dresses (1740s, 1760s, 1780s & 1790s) with accessories, but minus shift or the crucial stays (I expected that meant they had put undergarments in a separate volume to treat them in depth but according to their blog the next book is due out soon about hair & beauty). The sewing instructions could do with some hints for those who want to sew it by machine (even something as simple as ‘this bit must be done by hand it won’t work on a sewing machine’ would be a start). There’s little suggestion in the text itself for variation (there aren’t even images to suggest other ways you could decorate a gown) to avoid a cookie cutter effect. It needs better referencing (occasionally there’s something like ‘the decoration on this dress is based on a 1776 portrait of Mary Smith by Joseph Bloggs’ but it needs more).
The biggest problem is scale, there are patterns drawn on a grid which is indicated as a 1 inch grid but the grid on the paper is not a simple ratio to an inch in real life and every pattern is on a different scale. If you want to enlarge using any sort of measuring device or using a photocopier you’re going to need a calculator and/or a lot of wasted attempts. Instead of planning ahead that this is the paper size therefore I need to scale my patterns so they can fit on this size page at a useable scale they have just drawn patterns and then accepted whatever the ratio happens to be once it’s squeezed onto one full page (e.g. on p. 138 the 1780s ‘Italian gown’ is at 6:25 scale based on measuring a square, good luck getting a photocopier to understand that). Most of the scales are close to a simple ratio and you could just simplify it but every error in the original is magnified when you size it up. Taking the above ratio (6:25) if you simplified the ratio to 5:25 (or 1:5) you are shrinking every measurement by 1/6 meaning a dress will be 1/6 smaller than expected, so, for example if the gown should have a 28 inch waist (an average size 12) it would end up 4 ½ inches too small. I also can’t find where it specifies what measurements the patterns are drafted to fit meaning that grading up or down a size is a step behind where it needs to be.
They do suggest that draping patterns is preferable to flat patterning but as there's no instructions on how to drape a pattern the drafted patterns should be useable.
April 2, 2023
The troubleshooting section alone was worth the price of admission for this beginner
November 22, 2020
Fascinating to read, and with lovely colour photos. However, this would be next to useless for me to use because of how much jargon is used throughout, as well as the minimal patterns. In addition, it instructs you to construct much of the garment on the model. I would be the model. How would that work. But, seeing as I'm unlikely to start sewing a Sacque Gown right now, I still enjoyed reading it and I thought the writing style was a lot of fun.
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December 2, 2025Intriguing. The Robe a L'anglaise is going on the lifetime sewing bucket list (the yardage--phew!) Plus my UFO bin is overflowing anyways
Thanks for the loan, Georgia :D
Thanks for the loan, Georgia :D
August 15, 2020
Як гайд з відтворення георгіанських нарядів - круто взагалі (навіть мені, яка не дуже розуміється не те що в історичних, а й в сучасних техніках шиття, було зрозуміло майже все). Багато фотографій і пояснень до кожного етапу, рекомендацій щодо вибору тканин і швів і непогані поради на випадок різних факапів, які можуть трапитися в процесі. Але взагалі щодо історії тогочасної моди інформації дуже мало, на жаль (хоча це очевидно наче - гайд все-таки, але трошки засмутило).
November 19, 2017
(This book was sent to me by Page Street Publishing in exchange for an honest review.)
There are few historical costuming bloggers as well known as The American Duchess. Lauren has been blogging about historical clothing since 2009 and her Instagram is one of the most impressive sewing-related social media accounts out there. I’m excited to have had the chance to review The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style by Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, a book featuring her incredible designs, patterns and tips.
Note: I can sew but not nearly to the level of creating a dress, let alone a historically accurate costume. But I know enough to be able to review a how-to book like this. I also know that gowns from the Georgian era are the prettiest things ever and most certainly my favorite time in history for fashion.
The authors make sure to include a complete outfit, accessories and more in the book so your costume is complete—four different styles of gowns, undergarments and accessories for each, it’s a very thorough collection of patterns and clear, concise directions.
Like the best sewing manuals, this book is sewn using “premium binding” so it stays open and flat for ease of use when the sewist has their hands full.
Each pattern featured in this book includes lots of photos of the project from many angles to give the sewist a clear picture of what they need to do next. The photos are nice and clear and close to the details. The details are a big part of why 18th century gowns are so exquisite so this is both especially important and helpful.
This book, which will be released on November 21, 2017, is perfect for the advanced sewist, preferably someone who has prior experience with historical costume. A lovely book!
There are few historical costuming bloggers as well known as The American Duchess. Lauren has been blogging about historical clothing since 2009 and her Instagram is one of the most impressive sewing-related social media accounts out there. I’m excited to have had the chance to review The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style by Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox, a book featuring her incredible designs, patterns and tips.
Note: I can sew but not nearly to the level of creating a dress, let alone a historically accurate costume. But I know enough to be able to review a how-to book like this. I also know that gowns from the Georgian era are the prettiest things ever and most certainly my favorite time in history for fashion.
The authors make sure to include a complete outfit, accessories and more in the book so your costume is complete—four different styles of gowns, undergarments and accessories for each, it’s a very thorough collection of patterns and clear, concise directions.
Like the best sewing manuals, this book is sewn using “premium binding” so it stays open and flat for ease of use when the sewist has their hands full.
Each pattern featured in this book includes lots of photos of the project from many angles to give the sewist a clear picture of what they need to do next. The photos are nice and clear and close to the details. The details are a big part of why 18th century gowns are so exquisite so this is both especially important and helpful.
This book, which will be released on November 21, 2017, is perfect for the advanced sewist, preferably someone who has prior experience with historical costume. A lovely book!
January 1, 2019
A wonderful resource for anyone interested in historical costuming! This book includes sections on hand-sewing techniques, fabric choices, and how to troubleshoot fit issues. Plus, it goes in depth on how to make four different gowns, a few different petticoats, some structural pieces, and a number of accessories to help complete the look.
The book does NOT include information on making stays or shifts/chemises. Not including information on stays is understandable because, as they explain, stays require a lot more discussion than they could fit in a book along with the information and projects they already have. I was a bit disappointed that shifts weren't included, as they're pretty simple garments, but perhaps their simplicity (and how easy it is to find patterns online) is why they weren't included. Oddly enough, pockets weren't included either, but again, it's easy to find instructions and patterns for those online.
The book does NOT include information on making stays or shifts/chemises. Not including information on stays is understandable because, as they explain, stays require a lot more discussion than they could fit in a book along with the information and projects they already have. I was a bit disappointed that shifts weren't included, as they're pretty simple garments, but perhaps their simplicity (and how easy it is to find patterns online) is why they weren't included. Oddly enough, pockets weren't included either, but again, it's easy to find instructions and patterns for those online.
December 19, 2025
This book makes 18th century dresses really accessible and takes away their imposing presence in historical costuming. It was so interesting to learn that these garments were initially designed with hand sewing in mind and as such are easier to construct by hand, which I agree with after following the entire process for the robe a la francaise.
The different stitch guides were so helpful as well as the troubleshooting pages.
Some parts did leave me scratching my head - extra diagrams would be useful. Sometimes the writing is frustratingly vague and you have to get a second opinion from a YouTube video of someone making the garment or some other place, but I figured it out.
It lands in the 3.5-4 Star range for me.
The different stitch guides were so helpful as well as the troubleshooting pages.
Some parts did leave me scratching my head - extra diagrams would be useful. Sometimes the writing is frustratingly vague and you have to get a second opinion from a YouTube video of someone making the garment or some other place, but I figured it out.
It lands in the 3.5-4 Star range for me.
July 12, 2018
The authors give detailed instructions for making four styles of dresses and accessories popular in the 18th-century. Both authors come with excellent credentials, having trained at Colonial Williamsburg. Although making my own saque gown is not something I would do in a million years, I enjoyed the information about styles, fabrics, and construction. Lots of color illustrations showing the sewing techniques and how to fit the dresses. A bit more background on the way these dresses were worn would have helped me. They are in pieces, many of which were pinned to the person (sticking the ends into one’s stays). Is that usual? How secure were they? Inquiring minds want to know.
January 18, 2019
While I have technically read through all of this book, actually implementing the amazing techniques shown will take many-a-re-read-and reference. Instructive, clear tutorials, narrated with historical contexts. The section at the back about fixing common gown problems will be indispensable for me, I’m sure. A beautiful guide to make Georgian dressmaking accessible to more people, and written with great passion and knowledge. My only complaint is that there aren’t tutorials for stays nor a shift- I understand stays, but a shift tutorial would have been nice. I have to return to the library but I’d say I’ll end up buying it.
August 20, 2019
It is a good book for beginners, but at the same time I find it lacks details. I am told this is because of lack of room for pictures. Adding to this that the pattern for the sacque gown isn't used as the instructions that come with said pattern when you buy it, it's not adequate if you are going to sew correctly. It is, however, a good place to start.
September 24, 2020
This was a good book, very historical accurate, but not for the faint of heart, or the novice sewer. The pattern diagrams are rough estimates on a grid while the actually construction is done on the model, not something you can do for yourself, by yourself.
January 11, 2021
Very helpful for what it is. I was hoping for a bit more historical context in general and not just a select few patterns. The flow of the book could be smoother but it gets the job done. Glad this book exists!
January 1, 2022
I enjoy Abby from YouTube, and it was fascinating to read the how to nitty gritty of 18th century dress but presented in a light and fun way. I haven't made any of the patterns but I picked up terms and techniques simply from reading it. Never full despite being technical
November 26, 2017
This a wonderful example of hand sewing instruction book. I like the Era of the 1800’s. This is an inspiration to make that Italian gown. Lovely book.
June 21, 2018
What she sewed doesn't compare to the old ones
October 5, 2018
As a seamstress who mostly focuses on historical gowns, I have to say this book is incredibly useful. Love the pictures, how it's detailed... Everything!! A must have.
September 23, 2019
Fantastic information
September 5, 2020
Great
Super informative. Nice, clear pictures. Seems like a good resource into period accurate practices. The guides on dressing in the end and the troubleshooting is great.
Super informative. Nice, clear pictures. Seems like a good resource into period accurate practices. The guides on dressing in the end and the troubleshooting is great.
September 25, 2020
Amazingly helpful and broad!
December 31, 2020
This is all hand stitching. They're nice patterns, but there's only a few patterns in this book and it's not as thorough and researched as it could be.
January 12, 2021
Phenomenal reference book! I can't recommend it highly enough to any 18th cent focused tailor or seamstress!
January 30, 2021
Good book, great instructions and patterns just wanted a little more in the history department.
June 26, 2021
Wonderful simply wonderful! This was everything I wanted and more. It had in-depth from chemise to accessories details that will make my costumes perfect!
July 31, 2021
This book was super informative, it's just not what I needed for my project.
August 20, 2021
This book influenced me so much I'm looking into sewing lessons!
March 6, 2025
A fascinating guide to colonial style dressmaking.
December 31, 2017
Fantastic, informative, chock-full of wonderful tips and step-by-step instruction, right down to period-correct stitching, fabric and patterns. A brilliant book on its own, but a must for everyone desiring to be a mantua-maker out there!
March 12, 2018
I’ve always been curious how people back in the day used to hand-sew everything. This has really clear instructions, and I was pleasantly surprised to find a troubleshooting section in the back. 😊 I just want more versions of this book. ❤️
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April 13, 2018646.478 S893 2017
Displaying 1 - 30 of 32 reviews