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Milwaukee Frozen Custard

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Frozen custard is more than a dessert in Milwaukee. It s a culture, a lifestyle and a passion. From the stand that inspired television s Happy Days to the big three Gilles, Leon s and Kopp s take a tour through the history of this guilty pleasure. Learn about its humble origins as an unexpected rival to ice cream and its phenomenal success as a concession at the Chicago World s Fair in 1933 that made the snack famous. Find the stories behind your favorite flavor at local festivals and homegrown neighborhood stands. Milwaukee authors and editors Kathleen McCann and Robert Tanzilo launch a celebration of custard lore, featuring a stand guide and much more. Dig into what makes Milwaukee the Frozen Custard Capital of the World."

188 pages, Paperback

Published October 31, 2016

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Kathleen McCann

15 books1 follower

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Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews
Profile Image for Sarah Dunmire.
565 reviews7 followers
July 26, 2022
I guess I’m a spoiled Milwaukeean, not having realized that frozen custard isn’t really a thing outside of Wisconsin! Sad. This book was educational and inspiring. Oscar’s, Kopp’s, and Culver’s have been my lifelong sources of frozen custard, but now I have a whole list of places to try! Interesting to read about the history and techniques of frozen custard making and how it has persisted into this era.
Profile Image for Kenna York.
61 reviews5 followers
January 1, 2023
I loved this book. As a native Wisconsinite, avid local history buff, and someone who served Leon’s at their wedding, this book was right up my alley.
Profile Image for Mike Harris.
249 reviews4 followers
June 1, 2020
Well written history and travel guide to custard around Milwaukee. If you live in the area or plan on visiting I would recommend reading about a few of the different places that serve custard. It was fascinating to read about the history of my favorite place, Kopp’s.
Profile Image for Doris.
34 reviews
September 2, 2023
It’s a fun book if you love Milwaukee and/or Frozen Custard. It was nice to learn how we ended up with so much frozen custard here, fitting into the broader context of history. If you want a roadmap to visit frozen custard purveyors around the area, you’ll find it here in a big list (not an actual map). Sadly a few places have closed by now but that’s unavoidable. This book gave me a way to read nonfiction but also feel like I was reading a light summer read.
Profile Image for Abby Stopka.
588 reviews12 followers
June 20, 2021
Definitely enjoyed this book. It was a good history of frozen custard especially around the mournky area. I definitely enjoyed the entries about cops and culvers. Those are all places I went to and frequented quite often growing up. Even boy blue even though the one around me was seasonal. Definitely loved the history of all these different custard places. Some that still exists today.
240 reviews17 followers
November 29, 2023
If you enjoy reading about the history of Wisconsin, then you're in for a real treat with "Milwaukee Frozen Custard". Authors Kathleen McCann and Robert Tanzilo write about this decades-old staple that--along with cheese--helped shape Wisconsin's status as the Dairy State.

Surprisingly, frozen custard has a "rich and creamy" history dating back thousands of years. From China to Italy to France, Thomas Jefferson--our nation's third President--introduced the New World to France's version of this concoction. His recipe is preserved within the Library of Congress as well as on monticello.org's website. Like ice cream around that time, frozen custard was made by hand.

Yet wasn't until around 1917 that the Kohr family from Coney Island, New York used an "ice cream (barrel) freezer" that they patented three years earlier. This machine paved the way that frozen custard is made nowadays. The Kohrs opened up a shop in 1919 and, during the first several years, frozen custard was mostly served during the summer at carnivals.

Despite the Great Depression, frozen custard took off during the 1930's. Ted Drewes, a tennis star, opened up his namesake custard stand in 1930 down in St. Louis, Missouri while Wisconsin entered the so-called "mix" in 1932. Having the advantage of dairy farms and manufacturers for these machines, Wisconsin suppliers made unique mixes for each of the custard stands.

Milwaukee, Wisconsin eventually became known as the "Frozen Custard Capital of the World". Three of the Big Four businesses were within Milwaukee and/or its neighboring suburbs: Gilles, Leon's and Kopp's. To round out this cool tetrarchy, the Culver's chain is based out of Sauk City, Wisconsin's oldest city.

Out of the Big 4, Kopp's Frozen Custard has been a staple for several decades around the Milwaukee area. It currently has three stores. Kopp's has won countless awards for its custard. Its late matriarch Elsa Kopp came up with the idea for a "Flavor of the Day". Her legacy also carries on with monthly sundaes and milkshakes. Some great shake flavors are: Irish Mint (March), Cherry Bomb (July) and four different kinds in December including Eggnog and Amaretto Marshmallow. Its Glendale location stands at the former Milky Way restaurant which was the inspiration of Arnold's--and later Al's--on the TV sitcom "Happy Days" starring Ron Howard and Henry Winkler!

There was one thing I liked about this book. Kathleen McCann and Robert Tanzilo gave recognition to the Mom-and-Pop shops in Milwaukee and Wisconsin. A few worth mentioning include: Big Deal Burger in West Allis (just down the street from the State Fair); Wholly Cow Frozen Custard over in Delafield; and Kraverz and Pop's Frozen Custard, which are both in Menomonee Falls.

However, there are those frozen-custard businesses that end with their so-called "Last Stand". McCann and Tanzilo pay tribute to those who didn't make the cut or their owners decided to retire and close down their store. Some former places had catchy names such as the Fudge Pump, the Milky Way and Hi-Ho, the Dario. Even the first custard place--Clark's Frozen Custard and later renamed the Dutchland Dairy--wound up closing its doors in 1977 after 40+ years in the business. And since the book's 2016 publication, Ferch's Malt Shoppe and Grille in downtown Greendale closed its doors a few years back following the owners' retirement.

Another thing about the frozen-custard industry in Wisconsin (and possibly in other states): They not only may change with new owners but also with a new business name. After all, though a new franchise will start from the ground up, at least they may get a head start if the previous owners also sell them their barrel freezer. You got to have that to make some great frozen custard!

"Milwaukee Frozen Custard" is a real treat for history buffs and foodies to read. If you don't buy the book, then scoop up a copy at your local library. And maybe even pick up a shake or sundae or a pint or quart of your favorite flavor of frozen custard on the way home. Just don't get any on the pages!

Rating: *****

FINAL FUN FACT: The top three flavors of frozen custard are vanilla, chocolate and--surprise! surprise!--butter pecan! And you probably thought that strawberry would take home third place! I was a bit surprised to find out that fact for myself!!!
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