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An Empire of the East : Travels in Indonesia
Some of the adventures in Norman Lewis's book about Indonesia are unpremeditated. He goes to Aceh, North Sumatra, in the hope of describing its reserve of the richest fauna and flora in the world but runs into a separatist insurrection and he is deserted by his guide. East Timor is notoriously hard to enter, but Lewis travels there with his daughter, in a lull in the fighting, stays in a Catholic orphanage, and returns with an account of the life of the survivors. In Irian Jays he learns of the existence of Yali tribal communities living in stone-age culture little altered in 10,000 years. Lewis's Yali hosts, who are presumed to have tasted human flesh, are courteous and kindly. This book, above all, is an account of a race against time to see, enjoy and describe beautiful places while they are still there.
289 pages, Paperback
First published January 1, 1993
18 people are currently reading
185 people want to read
About the author
Norman Lewis
190 books153 followersNorman Lewis was a British writer renowned for his richly detailed travel writing, though his literary output also included twelve novels and several volumes of autobiography. Born in Enfield, Middlesex in 1908 to a Welsh family, Lewis was raised in a household steeped in spiritualism, a belief system embraced by his grieving parents following the deaths of his elder brothers. Despite these early influences, Lewis grew into a skeptic with a deeply observant eye, fascinated by cultures on the margins of the modern world.
His early adulthood was marked by various professions—including wedding photographer, umbrella wholesaler, and even motorcycle racer—before he served in the British Army during World War II. His wartime experiences in Algiers, Tunisia, and especially Naples provided the basis for one of his most celebrated books, Naples '44, widely praised as one of the finest firsthand accounts of the war. His writing blended keen observation with empathy and dry wit, traits that defined all of his travel works.
Lewis had a deep affinity for threatened cultures and traditional ways of life. His travels took him across Southeast Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. Among his most important books are A Dragon Apparent, an evocative portrait of French Indochina before the Vietnam War; Golden Earth, on postwar Burma; An Empire of the East, set in Indonesia; and A Goddess in the Stones, about the tribal communities of India. In Sicily, he explored the culture and reach of the Mafia in The Honoured Society and In Sicily, offering insight without sensationalism.
In 1969, his article “Genocide in Brazil,” detailing atrocities committed against Indigenous tribes, led directly to the formation of Survival International, an organization committed to protecting tribal peoples worldwide. Lewis often cited this as the most meaningful achievement of his career, expressing lifelong concern for the destructive influence of missionary activity and modernization on indigenous societies.
Though Lewis also wrote fiction, his literary reputation rests primarily on his travel writing, which was widely admired for its moral clarity, understated style, and commitment to giving voice to overlooked communities. He remained an unshakable realist throughout his life, famously stating, “I do not believe in belief,” though he found deep joy in simply being alive.
Lewis died in 2003 in Essex, survived by his third wife Lesley and their son Gawaine, as well as five other children from previous marriages.
His early adulthood was marked by various professions—including wedding photographer, umbrella wholesaler, and even motorcycle racer—before he served in the British Army during World War II. His wartime experiences in Algiers, Tunisia, and especially Naples provided the basis for one of his most celebrated books, Naples '44, widely praised as one of the finest firsthand accounts of the war. His writing blended keen observation with empathy and dry wit, traits that defined all of his travel works.
Lewis had a deep affinity for threatened cultures and traditional ways of life. His travels took him across Southeast Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. Among his most important books are A Dragon Apparent, an evocative portrait of French Indochina before the Vietnam War; Golden Earth, on postwar Burma; An Empire of the East, set in Indonesia; and A Goddess in the Stones, about the tribal communities of India. In Sicily, he explored the culture and reach of the Mafia in The Honoured Society and In Sicily, offering insight without sensationalism.
In 1969, his article “Genocide in Brazil,” detailing atrocities committed against Indigenous tribes, led directly to the formation of Survival International, an organization committed to protecting tribal peoples worldwide. Lewis often cited this as the most meaningful achievement of his career, expressing lifelong concern for the destructive influence of missionary activity and modernization on indigenous societies.
Though Lewis also wrote fiction, his literary reputation rests primarily on his travel writing, which was widely admired for its moral clarity, understated style, and commitment to giving voice to overlooked communities. He remained an unshakable realist throughout his life, famously stating, “I do not believe in belief,” though he found deep joy in simply being alive.
Lewis died in 2003 in Essex, survived by his third wife Lesley and their son Gawaine, as well as five other children from previous marriages.
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Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews
July 30, 2020
Split into three parts, this is a travelogue of the authors time in northern Sumatra (travelling to, and time in Aceh); East Timor (Timor Leste); and Irian Jaya (West Papua).
This isn't a upbeat tourism piece to encourage the traveller. It is a balanced, but often critical look at the way the three most oppressed parts of Indonesia have been treated. Despite all pushing for independence, since this book (published in 1993) only Timor Leste has achieved full independence, although Aceh is what is called a 'special autonomous region'.
The USA, and to a large extent Australia facilitated the Javanese Indonesian government in their efforts to root out the indigenous culture from the thousands of islands that make up Indonesia. Their support in removing Sukarno and replacing him with Suharto in 1967 was primarily a compromise that reassured them that Communism wouldn't take hold in Indonesia. The compromise was turning a blind eye to the corruption & the horrific mass executions.
Other than this, Lewis examines the long term effects of the transmigrations - where thousands of Javanese and Balinese families were forcibly (although some were voluntary) relocated to the underpopulated areas - including Aceh and West Papua - on which he focusses here.
East Timor is another scene of horrific mass murder, and Lewis takes pleasure in speaking a little Portugese to irritate the Javanese.
In Irian Jaya he spends time with the indigenous tribes, succeeding in spending some time in small villages in the interior, and then visits the enormous copper mines run by the American Freeport Copper Mine - at the time they had almost completed the hollowing out of the first mountain, and had made a start on the second. Equally an incredible engineering feat, and an environmental disaster, event the infrastructure for the mine was amazing. It was rumoured that the Indonesian government had awarded an even larger mining concession running all the way to the Papua New Guinea border - unable to be confirmed at the time, but the Grasberg mine is still in operation (2016) and is the largest gold, and third largest copper mine in the world. Needless to say, the mine has almost no benefits, and many downsides for the local indigenous tribes.
I enjoyed the writing style, and Lewis attempts to get away from standard tourist trails makes things much more interesting. Four stars for me.
This isn't a upbeat tourism piece to encourage the traveller. It is a balanced, but often critical look at the way the three most oppressed parts of Indonesia have been treated. Despite all pushing for independence, since this book (published in 1993) only Timor Leste has achieved full independence, although Aceh is what is called a 'special autonomous region'.
The USA, and to a large extent Australia facilitated the Javanese Indonesian government in their efforts to root out the indigenous culture from the thousands of islands that make up Indonesia. Their support in removing Sukarno and replacing him with Suharto in 1967 was primarily a compromise that reassured them that Communism wouldn't take hold in Indonesia. The compromise was turning a blind eye to the corruption & the horrific mass executions.
Other than this, Lewis examines the long term effects of the transmigrations - where thousands of Javanese and Balinese families were forcibly (although some were voluntary) relocated to the underpopulated areas - including Aceh and West Papua - on which he focusses here.
East Timor is another scene of horrific mass murder, and Lewis takes pleasure in speaking a little Portugese to irritate the Javanese.
In Irian Jaya he spends time with the indigenous tribes, succeeding in spending some time in small villages in the interior, and then visits the enormous copper mines run by the American Freeport Copper Mine - at the time they had almost completed the hollowing out of the first mountain, and had made a start on the second. Equally an incredible engineering feat, and an environmental disaster, event the infrastructure for the mine was amazing. It was rumoured that the Indonesian government had awarded an even larger mining concession running all the way to the Papua New Guinea border - unable to be confirmed at the time, but the Grasberg mine is still in operation (2016) and is the largest gold, and third largest copper mine in the world. Needless to say, the mine has almost no benefits, and many downsides for the local indigenous tribes.
I enjoyed the writing style, and Lewis attempts to get away from standard tourist trails makes things much more interesting. Four stars for me.
September 6, 2008
An honest and interesting look at Indonesia prior to "reformasi". Many travel books either provide an overly rosy picture of the people and places they visit (everything is interesting and the Western lifestyle is all wrong) or are condescending and critical. Lewis does not refrain from being critical, but at the same time provides a realistic, well-researched and empathetic look at the people and lifestyles in Aceh, East Timor and Papua. I think that he really captures Indonesia here - especially the outside-Jakarta/outside-Bali world that is most of Indonesia.
July 20, 2020
An interesting historical insight into the country.
I read this as a traveller who has just moved (for work) to the region and, while frankly never having much interest in Indonesia, is thinking about travelling there and wanting a good cultural / historical background.
I found Lewis' writing enjoyable, lacking any strong ego and well balanced. Lewis focusses on three troubled regions of Indonesia of 1991 (Aceh, Timor and Irian Jaya) and journalistically brings out the stories of both his experience and the people he meets. He seems to have glimpsed the country at a pivotal moment in its modernisation, or that is at least the impression he tries to portray.
The book could be looked upon as being in some ways out of date in the sense of the region today; Aceh was devastated by the 2004 tsunami which ironically led to peace; East Timor became an independent nation in 2002, but it remains an interesting read.
I imagine there are better books for learning about the country as a whole, but 'An Empire of the East' is nevertheless still a relevant and very well written account of recent history.
I read this as a traveller who has just moved (for work) to the region and, while frankly never having much interest in Indonesia, is thinking about travelling there and wanting a good cultural / historical background.
I found Lewis' writing enjoyable, lacking any strong ego and well balanced. Lewis focusses on three troubled regions of Indonesia of 1991 (Aceh, Timor and Irian Jaya) and journalistically brings out the stories of both his experience and the people he meets. He seems to have glimpsed the country at a pivotal moment in its modernisation, or that is at least the impression he tries to portray.
The book could be looked upon as being in some ways out of date in the sense of the region today; Aceh was devastated by the 2004 tsunami which ironically led to peace; East Timor became an independent nation in 2002, but it remains an interesting read.
I imagine there are better books for learning about the country as a whole, but 'An Empire of the East' is nevertheless still a relevant and very well written account of recent history.
September 3, 2022
Un bellissimo reportage di viaggio dell'epoca, non lontana, in cui non esisteva internet e i viaggi si preparavano con estenuanti telefonate, visti, code in biglietteria, resoconti di amici, libri, riviste e l'immancabile passa-parola. Lewis era un Viaggiatore sopraffino, molto apprezzato dalla società letteraria inglese, e non solo. L'ultima parte di questo libro è impareggiabile, la descrizione di Irian Jaya e l'inquietante visita alla città costruita dalla società mineraria statunitense che sta divorando, a suo esclusivo beneficio, l'ultima parte di foresta originaria , e di montagna del sud-est asiatico.
August 20, 2017
Relatos de viaje que muestran un lado menos conocido de Indonesia, hacias las zonas no tan turísticas, con experiencias auténticas. Estuvo bien pero lo abandoné porque me aburrió en el tiempo.. y bueno, la vida es muy corta.
December 22, 2024
Uncharted itineraries
Where native peoples are harried
By governments, by missionaries.
Where native peoples are harried
By governments, by missionaries.
January 17, 2015
This is one of his best. It has large chunks which are worth reading aloud. He takes his usual approach of insisting on going to the more obscure places. He writes very clearly and has a very sympathetic and respectful tone - even when writing about beliefs and practices that are very different to what westerners are used to. This book also takes a strong position on the recent political past of Indonesia and does not hold back in describing the crimes and setting out those who supported the perpetrators.
June 17, 2019
Good solid off the beaten track travel writing. Documents a journey through Indonesia, a country of islands.
April 20, 2014
A superb travel writer supplying a wealth of information about Sumatra, Bali, East Timor, and Irian Jaya.
April 18, 2015
A simple, but witty observation,revealing the plight of the oppressed in Sumatra, East Timor and Irian Jaya.
May 24, 2016
Interesting and captivating description of the less known parts of Indonesia from a wonderer rather than a traveler. I found nice the balance of travel description and history of the place
Displaying 1 - 11 of 11 reviews