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The Ornatrix
In this exquisitely dark debut, Kate Howard delivers a stirring tale on the cost of beauty, packed with suspense and period detail worthy of Kate Mosse, Jessie Burton, and Tracy Chevalier.
Cursed from birth by the bird-shaped blemish across her face, Flavia spends much of her life hidden from the outside world. Lonely and alienated even from her family, she sabotages her sister’s wedding in a fit of jealous rage and is exiled to serve in the convent of Santa Giuliana. Soon she finds that another exile dwells in the convent: a former Venetian courtesan named Ghostanza whose ostentatious appearance clashes with the otherwise austere convent and sparks gossip throughout the town. When Ghostanza claims Flavia as her ornatrix—her personal hairdresser and handmaid—Flavia is pulled into a world of glamor and concealment where admiration is everything and perfection is the ultimate, elusive goal. And she soon finds that with beauty in her grasp, in the form of the poisonous but stunning white lead cerussa, Flavia will do anything to leave her marked face behind.
Rich in description and character, Kate Howard’s stunning novel is painted against a vivid historical landscape with themes and characters relevant today, tackling issues of belonging, female identity, and the perception of beauty.
Cursed from birth by the bird-shaped blemish across her face, Flavia spends much of her life hidden from the outside world. Lonely and alienated even from her family, she sabotages her sister’s wedding in a fit of jealous rage and is exiled to serve in the convent of Santa Giuliana. Soon she finds that another exile dwells in the convent: a former Venetian courtesan named Ghostanza whose ostentatious appearance clashes with the otherwise austere convent and sparks gossip throughout the town. When Ghostanza claims Flavia as her ornatrix—her personal hairdresser and handmaid—Flavia is pulled into a world of glamor and concealment where admiration is everything and perfection is the ultimate, elusive goal. And she soon finds that with beauty in her grasp, in the form of the poisonous but stunning white lead cerussa, Flavia will do anything to leave her marked face behind.
Rich in description and character, Kate Howard’s stunning novel is painted against a vivid historical landscape with themes and characters relevant today, tackling issues of belonging, female identity, and the perception of beauty.
300 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2016
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1186 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 77 reviews
August 27, 2021
3.5 Stars rounded up
Flavia Bartofolo is banished from Casa Nascosta, her home that she’s shared with her mother, father and sister all her life until the night she is sent to the Santa Guiliana convent, just outside Perugia. The sin she has committed to be sent away at her mother’s insistence is having a birthmark that resembles a bird in flight. To her mother, an ugly, purplish reminder.
“It happened because Mona Grazia saw a bird in flight. If the sky had been empty, everything would have been different.”
And so Flavia becomes the ornatrix for a widow, La Perfetta, who resides in the convent as well, seeking relief from the intrusions of the world. Of course, La Perfetta is only the name that Flavia, and others, use to refer to her. Her real name is Ghostanza Dolfin. Ghostanza needs to present the perfect face, the perfect image. It matters not the cost of obtaining and maintaining this beauty. She wants to be the object of everyone’s desire. She wants the women to wish they were her, and the men to want to be with her. And now it is Flavia’s role to make sure her hair and her face are never less than perfect.
I loved the first half of this story; the prose was lovely, a bit reminiscent of the atmospheric “The Ballroom.” I found that there was a portion of the second half dragged a little, got bogged down in details and lost a bit of the fluidity of the earlier half. Still, this is a lovely story, which has a rare, but occasional bit of humour that shines through.
Certainly beauty in 16th Century Italy was different from today’s idea of what is considered beautiful. For every generation, for every geographic location, what remains true is attaining true beauty begins on the inside.
Published: 15 Nov 2016
Many thanks for the ARC provided by The Overlook Press, NetGalley and author Kate Howard
September 26, 2016
I received a copy of The Ornatrix through NetGalley for an honest review. My thanks to The Overlook Press and to Kate Howard for the opportunity.
"An ornatrix served her mistress in all bodily things. She oiled and braided her hair and applied such lotions and colours as were thought handsome."
The Italian countryside was rich with beauty and appeal. And that appeal, most certainly, must be found wafting like fine perfume from the innocent faces of its women. But not all such faces were equally blessed. Flavia Bartofolo of Casa Nascosta was born with a deep purplish mark upon her face resembling a bird in flight. No scrubbing by the midwife could remove such a blighted stain.
And so Flavia, deep with hue, was banished to the Santa Giuliana convent. Her father promises her that she may come home before the holidays. But promises are meant to be broken when they have anything to do with Flavia. Her life is burdened with hiding behind a veil to camouflage not only her birthmark, but to also mask the weight of her banishment from life.
It is here that Flavia becomes the ornatrix for the stunningly beautiful Ghostanza Dolfin, a new widow who takes to the convent for privacy and solitude. Ghostanza is obsessed with maintaining her beauty and coveting her many, many hidden secrets. She keeps multitudes of those secrets concealed in an ornate box finely decorated with the most delicate cherubs. Ghostanza favors a pure white cream called "cerussa" known to all ladies of finery to bring beauty to the skin. It is this cerussa that may bring the downfall of them all.
Ghostanza smuggles Flavia out of the convent to secure ingredients from the apothecary owner in town. And so the adventure begins. Flavia is drawn into working for Il Sicofante with the promise of stealing Ghostanza's secret formulas. Flavia experiements on one of the servants leaving him with "screaming diarrhea and a boil the size of a quail's egg on the end of his nose."
Kate Howard crafts a story like a fine Italian artisan. Her characters are incredibly varied and their well-versed dialogue pings accutely like a fine-tuned musical instrument. "She has perfected the dance of vengeance without smearing the paint on her lips." There are brilliant insertions of humor planted perfectly in just the right places in the storyline. And there is also the black ribbon of darkness and despair.
Howard brings about issues that parallel women's continued search today for the Holy Grail of Beauty. Strangely, you have only had to look within. It's always been there all along......
"An ornatrix served her mistress in all bodily things. She oiled and braided her hair and applied such lotions and colours as were thought handsome."
The Italian countryside was rich with beauty and appeal. And that appeal, most certainly, must be found wafting like fine perfume from the innocent faces of its women. But not all such faces were equally blessed. Flavia Bartofolo of Casa Nascosta was born with a deep purplish mark upon her face resembling a bird in flight. No scrubbing by the midwife could remove such a blighted stain.
And so Flavia, deep with hue, was banished to the Santa Giuliana convent. Her father promises her that she may come home before the holidays. But promises are meant to be broken when they have anything to do with Flavia. Her life is burdened with hiding behind a veil to camouflage not only her birthmark, but to also mask the weight of her banishment from life.
It is here that Flavia becomes the ornatrix for the stunningly beautiful Ghostanza Dolfin, a new widow who takes to the convent for privacy and solitude. Ghostanza is obsessed with maintaining her beauty and coveting her many, many hidden secrets. She keeps multitudes of those secrets concealed in an ornate box finely decorated with the most delicate cherubs. Ghostanza favors a pure white cream called "cerussa" known to all ladies of finery to bring beauty to the skin. It is this cerussa that may bring the downfall of them all.
Ghostanza smuggles Flavia out of the convent to secure ingredients from the apothecary owner in town. And so the adventure begins. Flavia is drawn into working for Il Sicofante with the promise of stealing Ghostanza's secret formulas. Flavia experiements on one of the servants leaving him with "screaming diarrhea and a boil the size of a quail's egg on the end of his nose."
Kate Howard crafts a story like a fine Italian artisan. Her characters are incredibly varied and their well-versed dialogue pings accutely like a fine-tuned musical instrument. "She has perfected the dance of vengeance without smearing the paint on her lips." There are brilliant insertions of humor planted perfectly in just the right places in the storyline. And there is also the black ribbon of darkness and despair.
Howard brings about issues that parallel women's continued search today for the Holy Grail of Beauty. Strangely, you have only had to look within. It's always been there all along......
October 5, 2016
The price of beauty can be cruel . . . and deadly.
Flavia, a cloth-dyer's daughter, is born with a birthmark covering her face, which is in the shape of a bird in flight. Her mother, ashamed of this mark, makes Flavia cover her face in public. However, on the night of her younger sister's wedding, Flavia dares to do something drastic... which gets her sent away to the convent of Santa Guiliana, just outside the city of Perugia.
In the convent, Flavia encounters Ghostanza, a woman whose beauty is matched only by her cruelty, and whose white-painted face demands constant attention. Flavia becomes her ornatrix, attending to Ghostanza's constant needs for maintaining her appearance. This becomes more and more difficult, as Ghostanza's supplies of Venetian cerussa runs low, and Flavia must search for a way to make more. As the story progresses, it becomes clear that this cerussa is more than just a makeup, and that Ghostanza's quest for beauty may become the downfall of both herself and Flavia.
Howard brings her characters and settings to life with vivid, evocative language and a pace that increases steadily, along with a sense of increasing dread that permeates the story. The fact that the precious cerussa is a white lead paint used on the face lends an element of horror, as well. As Flavia learns, once a woman has been using cerussa as a face paint for a long time, she cannot stop, since her face beneath the makeup grows increasingly awful. The poisonous nature of these cosmetics is clearly conveyed, so to a modern reader, we can understand just how horrifying the consequences of using this makeup are, and can only continue to read, knowing that dreadful things are in store for the characters.
Yet, Howard's writing is so lush that you get a complete sense of this world, and can imagine these people in 16th century Italy, quite clearly. It's not all awful; there are flashes of humor in the story, as Flavia has a wry view on much of her world. However, the dark ribbon of the nasty undertones to Ghostanza underscore that there is, indeed, a high price to be paid for beauty.
Flavia, a cloth-dyer's daughter, is born with a birthmark covering her face, which is in the shape of a bird in flight. Her mother, ashamed of this mark, makes Flavia cover her face in public. However, on the night of her younger sister's wedding, Flavia dares to do something drastic... which gets her sent away to the convent of Santa Guiliana, just outside the city of Perugia.
In the convent, Flavia encounters Ghostanza, a woman whose beauty is matched only by her cruelty, and whose white-painted face demands constant attention. Flavia becomes her ornatrix, attending to Ghostanza's constant needs for maintaining her appearance. This becomes more and more difficult, as Ghostanza's supplies of Venetian cerussa runs low, and Flavia must search for a way to make more. As the story progresses, it becomes clear that this cerussa is more than just a makeup, and that Ghostanza's quest for beauty may become the downfall of both herself and Flavia.
Howard brings her characters and settings to life with vivid, evocative language and a pace that increases steadily, along with a sense of increasing dread that permeates the story. The fact that the precious cerussa is a white lead paint used on the face lends an element of horror, as well. As Flavia learns, once a woman has been using cerussa as a face paint for a long time, she cannot stop, since her face beneath the makeup grows increasingly awful. The poisonous nature of these cosmetics is clearly conveyed, so to a modern reader, we can understand just how horrifying the consequences of using this makeup are, and can only continue to read, knowing that dreadful things are in store for the characters.
Yet, Howard's writing is so lush that you get a complete sense of this world, and can imagine these people in 16th century Italy, quite clearly. It's not all awful; there are flashes of humor in the story, as Flavia has a wry view on much of her world. However, the dark ribbon of the nasty undertones to Ghostanza underscore that there is, indeed, a high price to be paid for beauty.
July 25, 2016
This was a book I won in a Goodreads giveaway and when it arrived I was instantly drawn in by the beautiful artwork. Because we all definitely do judge a book by its cover...
I have quite a passion for Italy around this time so the appeal was there from the offset. The historical element didn't feel stuffy and the characters were relatable and likeable (mostly). Despite the slightly dark side of the subject matter - based around the world of poisons and addiction in make up in 16th century Italy - it felt like a readable and enjoyable book. I found myself going "just one more chapter" and losing quite a few hours immersed in it! The little recipes for various cosmetic enhancements like curing bad breath and changing the colour of your eyes were fascinating and really highlighted the lengths people (especially women) were prepared to go to in the pursuit of beauty.
My only criticism would be that there is a character (who I won't name to save spoilers!) who becomes a very important and integral character in the last few chapters. This becomes a bit of a plot twist as you're not expecting it but there has also been too little character development to really understand the actions and the consequences.
This felt unique and intriguing. It was informative without being heavy and dark whilst still being enjoyable enough to class as a summer read. I would certainly recommend this book and I think it would appeal even if historical fiction is not usually your style.
I have quite a passion for Italy around this time so the appeal was there from the offset. The historical element didn't feel stuffy and the characters were relatable and likeable (mostly). Despite the slightly dark side of the subject matter - based around the world of poisons and addiction in make up in 16th century Italy - it felt like a readable and enjoyable book. I found myself going "just one more chapter" and losing quite a few hours immersed in it! The little recipes for various cosmetic enhancements like curing bad breath and changing the colour of your eyes were fascinating and really highlighted the lengths people (especially women) were prepared to go to in the pursuit of beauty.
My only criticism would be that there is a character (who I won't name to save spoilers!) who becomes a very important and integral character in the last few chapters. This becomes a bit of a plot twist as you're not expecting it but there has also been too little character development to really understand the actions and the consequences.
This felt unique and intriguing. It was informative without being heavy and dark whilst still being enjoyable enough to class as a summer read. I would certainly recommend this book and I think it would appeal even if historical fiction is not usually your style.
October 19, 2021
I almost gave this book four stars. The writing is beautiful, atmospheric, I (almost) thoroughly enjoyed reading this. Everything is described in such detail and none of it seems forced, or too much. Reading this was like walking through a painting come to life. For some reason, I especially enjoyed all the detailed descriptions of how fabrics were dyed and cosmetics made. I can't say I usually like stuff like that, but in this book it all really felt relevant.
Flavia is refreshing, her flaws are so exposed, much like everyone else's, but the book gets the deepest into her head. It's sometimes surprisingly hard to find as purely human characters as her. Most fiction tends to ignore all the "small" flaws the character's personality has, and focus on the bigger ones. Like, if you have a greedy character, they're probably seen plotting to get something like, a big sum of money, but we never get to see them drooling over someone's piece of pie in the dinner table. I'd always like to see more of these little, "petty" personality quirks, and in Flavia I see plenty. The things she wants, how she interacts with people, her revenge. It's just all so human. And I love how the book "allows" her to be really petty and selfish, and it doesn't make her kindness or selflessness any less, when she gets over herself. Sometimes I think it seems surprisingly hard for authors to allow a character to be both, and that's why I love this about Flavia.
However, I can't give it four stars, because there was just something that bothered me about the plot, mostly the Gilia storyline. I just didn't see the point of the brutality in this story. It surprised me the wrong way. The ending just really put me off. Like, that's it? This is the "punchline"? I just wasn't expecting a conclusion like that. I'm glad things turned out fine for Flavia, but for me there wasn't enough build up for that kind of ending, there wasn't enough character development. It just read to me like a cheap horror trick that's supposed to shake the reader because the thing itself is brutal, so the context doesn't matter. I'm sure this works for other types of readers, but I want to care because of the context, not because I'm supposed to have an opinion/reaction about something regardless of it.
Flavia is refreshing, her flaws are so exposed, much like everyone else's, but the book gets the deepest into her head. It's sometimes surprisingly hard to find as purely human characters as her. Most fiction tends to ignore all the "small" flaws the character's personality has, and focus on the bigger ones. Like, if you have a greedy character, they're probably seen plotting to get something like, a big sum of money, but we never get to see them drooling over someone's piece of pie in the dinner table. I'd always like to see more of these little, "petty" personality quirks, and in Flavia I see plenty. The things she wants, how she interacts with people, her revenge. It's just all so human. And I love how the book "allows" her to be really petty and selfish, and it doesn't make her kindness or selflessness any less, when she gets over herself. Sometimes I think it seems surprisingly hard for authors to allow a character to be both, and that's why I love this about Flavia.
However, I can't give it four stars, because there was just something that bothered me about the plot, mostly the Gilia storyline. I just didn't see the point of the brutality in this story. It surprised me the wrong way. The ending just really put me off. Like, that's it? This is the "punchline"? I just wasn't expecting a conclusion like that. I'm glad things turned out fine for Flavia, but for me there wasn't enough build up for that kind of ending, there wasn't enough character development. It just read to me like a cheap horror trick that's supposed to shake the reader because the thing itself is brutal, so the context doesn't matter. I'm sure this works for other types of readers, but I want to care because of the context, not because I'm supposed to have an opinion/reaction about something regardless of it.
April 25, 2017
Unfortunately, this book was not for me. I typically love historical fiction but the story dragged on and on and on and the writing was too flowery for my taste.
October 24, 2017
This book delves into the world of beauty and how beauty is perceived. It is set in 16th Century Italy, at a time when it was fashionable for women to paint their faces in a lead based white paste called “cerussa” and the aim for the perfect face was all consuming.
This is something that Flavia, the main protagonist, would love to achieve. Having been born with a birthmark in the shape of a bird on her face. It was looked upon by her parents as being shameful and a mark of the devil, therefore Flavia spent most of her childhood hidden inside, or when going to church, wearing a veil. Her life changes in many ways, one of the most significant is her meeting and working for Ghostanza. Falvia becomes her personal hairdresser and maid, she becomes her “Ornatrix”.
This is a story I really enjoyed. It’s a story that has a message. It gave me something to think about after reading. Also I have learnt something from reading it. I really liked the character of Flavia, at times she was petulant, jealous, and wilful, but given her history and her experiences it fitted well. It also fitted in with peoples perceptions of those who are different. Difference seemed to give people the right to ridicule, mock and be extremely prejudiced. The story also discusses the way cerussa was made, the long processes of having make up applied and the health dangers that came with using the products. Also there is a character, I will not mention the name, who offers a voice of reason along with his views of beauty being on the inside and not on the outside.
Initially I found Flavia a little difficult to warm to, but this actually makes sense, she is a defensive, guarded character, but as her story comes out I found myself understanding her and liked her, though not at all times. There are several other characters from different backgrounds, these give a nice balance and show the the various opinions of society and class distinctions, giving a diverse range of viewpoints. The settings were wonderfully described, giving me a indicators of sights, sounds and smells that helped build a vivid picture.
This story captivated me and kept me turning the pages. Many themes discussed are still relevant today, particularly the lengths people will go to for beauty though the methods are different, also the prejudice shown for people who are considered different by society, we all know this still occurs though not to the lengths discussed in the book.
I would definitely recommend this book to readers of historical fiction. I really liked the inclusion of society, class and a girl trying desperately to find her place in the world. I also think it would make a really good Book Group discussion read, there are some great talking/ debating points here. I was sent this book by the publisher, my thoughts are unbiased and my own.
This is something that Flavia, the main protagonist, would love to achieve. Having been born with a birthmark in the shape of a bird on her face. It was looked upon by her parents as being shameful and a mark of the devil, therefore Flavia spent most of her childhood hidden inside, or when going to church, wearing a veil. Her life changes in many ways, one of the most significant is her meeting and working for Ghostanza. Falvia becomes her personal hairdresser and maid, she becomes her “Ornatrix”.
This is a story I really enjoyed. It’s a story that has a message. It gave me something to think about after reading. Also I have learnt something from reading it. I really liked the character of Flavia, at times she was petulant, jealous, and wilful, but given her history and her experiences it fitted well. It also fitted in with peoples perceptions of those who are different. Difference seemed to give people the right to ridicule, mock and be extremely prejudiced. The story also discusses the way cerussa was made, the long processes of having make up applied and the health dangers that came with using the products. Also there is a character, I will not mention the name, who offers a voice of reason along with his views of beauty being on the inside and not on the outside.
Initially I found Flavia a little difficult to warm to, but this actually makes sense, she is a defensive, guarded character, but as her story comes out I found myself understanding her and liked her, though not at all times. There are several other characters from different backgrounds, these give a nice balance and show the the various opinions of society and class distinctions, giving a diverse range of viewpoints. The settings were wonderfully described, giving me a indicators of sights, sounds and smells that helped build a vivid picture.
This story captivated me and kept me turning the pages. Many themes discussed are still relevant today, particularly the lengths people will go to for beauty though the methods are different, also the prejudice shown for people who are considered different by society, we all know this still occurs though not to the lengths discussed in the book.
I would definitely recommend this book to readers of historical fiction. I really liked the inclusion of society, class and a girl trying desperately to find her place in the world. I also think it would make a really good Book Group discussion read, there are some great talking/ debating points here. I was sent this book by the publisher, my thoughts are unbiased and my own.
June 25, 2017
4.25 STARS
October 24, 2016
This book is more a 3.5/5 for me - but I definitely liked it more than I didn't.
I thought the writing was beautiful and I found the historical aspect of cosmetics interesting and completely horrifying (white-lead paint was the fashion - beauty DEFINITELY came at a price). I found it a bit hard to get into the story at first, but it slowly warmed up and had a great ending with a little bit of shock involved, so that was nice.
I hated the main character, Flavia, mostly because she was a hateful person. I can understand why she was that way inclined, but it didn't make me dislike her any less. I thought she was very well written for me to dislike her as much as I did. Flavia reminded me a lot of Grenouille in Patrick Suskind's Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, and the search for the perfect method of making the white-lead paint known as ceruse, was reminiscent of Grenouille's attempt to create the perfect scent.
If you liked 'Perfume' I think you'd probably like 'The Ornatrix' as well - both take a look at the darker side of beauty and may act as a reminder that we really should think more about what we slather on our faces and bodies.
I thought the writing was beautiful and I found the historical aspect of cosmetics interesting and completely horrifying (white-lead paint was the fashion - beauty DEFINITELY came at a price). I found it a bit hard to get into the story at first, but it slowly warmed up and had a great ending with a little bit of shock involved, so that was nice.
I hated the main character, Flavia, mostly because she was a hateful person. I can understand why she was that way inclined, but it didn't make me dislike her any less. I thought she was very well written for me to dislike her as much as I did. Flavia reminded me a lot of Grenouille in Patrick Suskind's Perfume: The Story of a Murderer, and the search for the perfect method of making the white-lead paint known as ceruse, was reminiscent of Grenouille's attempt to create the perfect scent.
If you liked 'Perfume' I think you'd probably like 'The Ornatrix' as well - both take a look at the darker side of beauty and may act as a reminder that we really should think more about what we slather on our faces and bodies.
July 30, 2020
In a dark, dark debut that's reminiscent of a Perfume set in 16th century Italy, author Kate Howard delivers a story about beauty and obsession. To say the story is unsettling would be to understate it. Not a fun or easy book, The Ornatrix was still good(ish), in its own way.
The book is about Flavia, "ugly," who meets the "beautiful" Lady Ghostanza and develops a fascination for cosmetics and perfecting one's appearance. Of course, other things happen over the course of the novel, but that's about the gist of it.
To be honest, The Ornatrix just didn't do it for me. I didn't connect with either the characters or the writing. It all felt very stiff and remote, and the book itself was more of a chore than a pleasure to read. It wasn't dull so much as difficult. Ease of reading just wasn't a thing here at all.
And that's upsetting, because I like was Howard was doing. Her subject and themes were interesting. The Ornatrix wanted to be great, could have been good, but it didn't really arrive to that point.
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The book is about Flavia, "ugly," who meets the "beautiful" Lady Ghostanza and develops a fascination for cosmetics and perfecting one's appearance. Of course, other things happen over the course of the novel, but that's about the gist of it.
To be honest, The Ornatrix just didn't do it for me. I didn't connect with either the characters or the writing. It all felt very stiff and remote, and the book itself was more of a chore than a pleasure to read. It wasn't dull so much as difficult. Ease of reading just wasn't a thing here at all.
And that's upsetting, because I like was Howard was doing. Her subject and themes were interesting. The Ornatrix wanted to be great, could have been good, but it didn't really arrive to that point.
📌 . Blog | Review Database | Twitter | Instagram | Goodreads
August 16, 2016
Favourite book this year. Did not want to start the next so I could relive moments from this one. I have identified the cast for the movie. Loved it
March 29, 2017
What women do for beauty is a timeless quest...Kate Howard brings this to life in her novel..I especially enjoyed the little tidbits at the start of each chapter...
March 8, 2021
I wasn't sure weather to give this book a 1 or a 5* rating, so like many others I plumped for 3. The bare bones of it is a fascinating story of Flavia, a girl who was born with a purple bird like shape with wings spread across the side of her face, the story begins of her sad life at home. I felt that the middle got a bit boring and I nearly gave up but I just needed to know how it ended. I'm glad I didn't because it was a lovely but sad story, fascinating and intriguing but at times confusing. I liked the quaint and sometimes dangerous little beauty recipes of the time inserted between chapters. I would recommend this unusual and dangerous story of 17th century customs and ideas in the pursuit of the perfect face because it is a book I am glad I didn't miss.
Read
February 28, 2017"The dangers posed by centuries-old makeup and beauty practices are well documented and known—from the damage caused by applying poisonous pastes to the skin to long-lasting threats like the loss of teeth. Howard brings those threats to life in a way that history books often struggle to do, making clear the cost women were willing to pay to make themselves stark white and carefully painted. There is a desperation to her female characters—and a willing ignorance in the men—that feeds tension throughout the story, creating a sense of building danger and consequence that chases Flavia from the very early pages of the book." - Bridey Heing
This book was reviewed in the March/April 2017 issue of World Literature Today magazine. Read the full review by visiting our website:
https://www.worldliteraturetoday.org/...
This book was reviewed in the March/April 2017 issue of World Literature Today magazine. Read the full review by visiting our website:
https://www.worldliteraturetoday.org/...
November 8, 2016
I am almost lost for words after reading this book.
The pendulum is swinging between believing it to either be bordering on literary genius or ………. pretentious twaddle. And I want it to be the former!!
Unusual was always one of the first words that sprung to mind, this is the work of a fertile and unique imagination. I was reminded of Perfume and The Miniaturist and The Gargoyle whilst reading. This is a tale of deception and obsession, jealousy and desire. Without doubt it is more literary than colloquial with some beautiful passages of prose.
The historical research gives the book an almost flawless authenticity. The reader becomes enveloped in sixteenth century Italy imperceptibly. Nothing seems to surprise. Yet the characters seems ethereal, ghostlike, so how appropriate that one of the main characters is named Ghostanza.
If the book has anything to say it is about beauty and the observations made on the theme are timeless. Airbrushing isn’t just the stuff of 21st century digital domains!! And it endures as a metaphor within the novel as created beauty is no more than a veneer to conceal the rot within.
This is a debut novel, something I love. And I chuckled to find another author whose name is ‘Kate’. Maybe I am superstitious but I love novels by all the Kates!! Atkinson, Mosse, Morton, Riordan and now Howard.
I enjoyed the structure of the book, the little ‘recipes’ for beauty products in between the chapters were fascinating and apparently genuine! The characters are diverse and require the sustained attention of the reader to fully appreciate the dynamics between them all.
And I am led back to my original premise, is this genius or twaddle? Maybe genius is too strong a word but it is a debut work of remarkable depth.
I was fortunate to win a copy of this novel from Nudge Books and I am indebted to them for the privilege of ‘meeting’ this new and exciting writer.
Whizz
Whizz reviewed this book on behalf of Breakaway Reviewers.
The pendulum is swinging between believing it to either be bordering on literary genius or ………. pretentious twaddle. And I want it to be the former!!
Unusual was always one of the first words that sprung to mind, this is the work of a fertile and unique imagination. I was reminded of Perfume and The Miniaturist and The Gargoyle whilst reading. This is a tale of deception and obsession, jealousy and desire. Without doubt it is more literary than colloquial with some beautiful passages of prose.
The historical research gives the book an almost flawless authenticity. The reader becomes enveloped in sixteenth century Italy imperceptibly. Nothing seems to surprise. Yet the characters seems ethereal, ghostlike, so how appropriate that one of the main characters is named Ghostanza.
If the book has anything to say it is about beauty and the observations made on the theme are timeless. Airbrushing isn’t just the stuff of 21st century digital domains!! And it endures as a metaphor within the novel as created beauty is no more than a veneer to conceal the rot within.
This is a debut novel, something I love. And I chuckled to find another author whose name is ‘Kate’. Maybe I am superstitious but I love novels by all the Kates!! Atkinson, Mosse, Morton, Riordan and now Howard.
I enjoyed the structure of the book, the little ‘recipes’ for beauty products in between the chapters were fascinating and apparently genuine! The characters are diverse and require the sustained attention of the reader to fully appreciate the dynamics between them all.
And I am led back to my original premise, is this genius or twaddle? Maybe genius is too strong a word but it is a debut work of remarkable depth.
I was fortunate to win a copy of this novel from Nudge Books and I am indebted to them for the privilege of ‘meeting’ this new and exciting writer.
Whizz
Whizz reviewed this book on behalf of Breakaway Reviewers.
November 10, 2017
Not a pleasant read, but strangely compelling. On the one hand, it was refreshing to encounter a more accurate depiction of sixteenth (?) century life. The Hollywood versions where everyone has clear skin and freshly shampooed hair is, well, Hollywood. The Ornatrix was a much more realistic look at the gritty reality of everyday life, and that was the attraction for me. I wasn't blown away by plot or characterization. They all seemed a little flat and unsympathetic. The only tug at my emotions was the part about the cat, Parassito. Still can't figure out why almost every book or movie I pick up feels it's necessary to maim an animal in order to emphasize a character's psychopathy.
The other thing that kept this story from really engulfing me was the oddly phrased language. For instance: "An eyebrow creeps up and she knows he is tickling her servant brain." And "the thought took a turn around her head." Yeah. I get what you're trying to say, but it's so forced. Sometimes the words and phrases were laughable and jolted me out of the storyline. Then the other, more petty, complaint: typos. Too many. The kind that range from simple ("Mona Grazia eyes" instead of "Mon Grazia's eyes") to what appear to be alternate ways of saying the same sentence and, in the haste to make a choice, BOTH ways are left for the reader to stumble over. The sentences become vaguely nonsensical.
But overall, I kept going, because this writer is a fresh voice and I hope she has more to say.
The other thing that kept this story from really engulfing me was the oddly phrased language. For instance: "An eyebrow creeps up and she knows he is tickling her servant brain." And "the thought took a turn around her head." Yeah. I get what you're trying to say, but it's so forced. Sometimes the words and phrases were laughable and jolted me out of the storyline. Then the other, more petty, complaint: typos. Too many. The kind that range from simple ("Mona Grazia eyes" instead of "Mon Grazia's eyes") to what appear to be alternate ways of saying the same sentence and, in the haste to make a choice, BOTH ways are left for the reader to stumble over. The sentences become vaguely nonsensical.
But overall, I kept going, because this writer is a fresh voice and I hope she has more to say.
February 7, 2017
This is one is much darker than I had originally thought. I think Howard's novel is brilliant and biting. Flavia is complex and interesting, even if she isn't always someone you want to root for. I was completely sucked into the world Howard created, which made the twists that much more gut wrenching. This novel is an interesting meditation on beauty: its definition, its purpose, and its value.
February 15, 2017
This book was bizarre. Too dark and twisted for my liking, it reminded me a bit of Bitter Greens, which also unnerved me.
June 20, 2017
Fascinating and a bit weird!
April 4, 2018
Gritty, intriguing story that was sometimes hard to follow. #HistoricalFiction
October 20, 2018
Ugly on the inside.
dnf
August 24, 2020DNFed after about 100 pages. It just got very boring... but the writing was actually very nice and I did enjoy the first few pages.
September 13, 2018
I am always drawn to historical fiction especially set in Italy. after studying Art History at University. The Ornatrix, set in sixteenth century San Fortunato, Umbria in Northern Italy, ticked all the boxes for me. The narrative is told mainly from Flavia's point of view, as she is shielded from the world by her mother who is ashamed by the birthmark on her face. After her sisters wedding she is sent to the convent of Santa Guiliana as a punishment for trying to ruin the day, and there she meets Ghostanza, a beautiful widow, and becomes her Ornatrix; her personal maid. The other narrative is Gilia la Bella, step daughter to Ghostanza. Gilia opens up some of Ghostanza's world to us and the importance of beauty to women of the higher classes.
The Ornatrix is a book about beauty; its importance to women of society, the lengths women will go to make themselves beautiful and questions just what we see as beautiful. In reality these are still questions we ask ourselves today which makes this book, and its subject matter, just as relevant today, as it's sixteenth century setting . In sixteenth century Italy the aim was for pale skin and lighter hair, but the lead in the make up poisoned the wearer and destroyed their complexion and made their teeth fall out. This is a contrast to today when it is a tan we aim for that can also destroy the complexion, and cause cancer.
Flavia has been made to hide away from the world due to the birthmark in the shape of a bird on the side of her face. She has been bought up to feel ashamed of this birthmark and that because of it she is ugly and will never marry, as no man would want her. I felt great sympathy for Flavia being reminded of her birthmark at every opportunity; her sister is attractive, the singing nuns at the convent are all beautiful, as is Ghostanza. But it is through Ghostanza that she begins to see how make up could help her. Ghostanza herself is spoilt, vain and has a terrible temper; the only thing that matters to her is her looks. She passes on her ideas of beauty to her step daughter Gilia, who is young and susceptible so doesn't see Ghostanza for who she really is. Gilia lives a very sheltered life, not aloud out on the streets but kept in the boundaries of her home. I felt Ghostanza was jealous of her youth and natural beauty and that she had her life ahead ahead of her, whilst she was getting older.
The historical detail of this book was brilliant and Kate Howard had obviously done a lot of research into the period; she really captured the atmosphere and culture of the sixteenth century. Being set in a an actual place I found myself looking it up on the Internet, which brings the buildings and town to life. The character detail, nuances, discussions and descriptions brought them to life , and there were so many different relationship dynamics that kept the book interesting and entertaining to read.
The Ornatrix is a fabulous piece of historical fiction. It really transports you to the sixteenth century, with its sights and smells and landscapes. The subject matter of beauty, and what it is, is a question that has fascinated us for centuries and every century has its own ideas, including today where we still push the limits. Relevant, compelling, engaging and simply brilliant, grab yourself a copy of The Ornatrix.
The Ornatrix is a book about beauty; its importance to women of society, the lengths women will go to make themselves beautiful and questions just what we see as beautiful. In reality these are still questions we ask ourselves today which makes this book, and its subject matter, just as relevant today, as it's sixteenth century setting . In sixteenth century Italy the aim was for pale skin and lighter hair, but the lead in the make up poisoned the wearer and destroyed their complexion and made their teeth fall out. This is a contrast to today when it is a tan we aim for that can also destroy the complexion, and cause cancer.
Flavia has been made to hide away from the world due to the birthmark in the shape of a bird on the side of her face. She has been bought up to feel ashamed of this birthmark and that because of it she is ugly and will never marry, as no man would want her. I felt great sympathy for Flavia being reminded of her birthmark at every opportunity; her sister is attractive, the singing nuns at the convent are all beautiful, as is Ghostanza. But it is through Ghostanza that she begins to see how make up could help her. Ghostanza herself is spoilt, vain and has a terrible temper; the only thing that matters to her is her looks. She passes on her ideas of beauty to her step daughter Gilia, who is young and susceptible so doesn't see Ghostanza for who she really is. Gilia lives a very sheltered life, not aloud out on the streets but kept in the boundaries of her home. I felt Ghostanza was jealous of her youth and natural beauty and that she had her life ahead ahead of her, whilst she was getting older.
The historical detail of this book was brilliant and Kate Howard had obviously done a lot of research into the period; she really captured the atmosphere and culture of the sixteenth century. Being set in a an actual place I found myself looking it up on the Internet, which brings the buildings and town to life. The character detail, nuances, discussions and descriptions brought them to life , and there were so many different relationship dynamics that kept the book interesting and entertaining to read.
The Ornatrix is a fabulous piece of historical fiction. It really transports you to the sixteenth century, with its sights and smells and landscapes. The subject matter of beauty, and what it is, is a question that has fascinated us for centuries and every century has its own ideas, including today where we still push the limits. Relevant, compelling, engaging and simply brilliant, grab yourself a copy of The Ornatrix.
May 28, 2017
Beauty at one time was perceived very differently from today. When eyebrows were plucked to nothing, even hairlines were plucked to reveal high foreheads, and the faces slathered with white caked on powders, (which were actually poisonous), the courtesans wanted these looks & most had their very own ornatrix, their personal handmaiden & hairdresser. Young Flavia was born to the local dyer & his wife, born with a blemish across her face which looked like a bird in flight. Her family was ashamed of her & her father usually kept her stirring the dyes & helping him out. Her mother would put a hat with a veil anytime Flavia went out.
When her sister's wedding came about, Flavia ruins the wedding gown in a jealous rage. She is then packed up & exiled to a convent. There she meets Ghostanza, a mean & evil spirited former courtesan. Her life is nothing but the ultimate beauty, striving for perfection & wanting nothing more than to be admired. Flavia becomes the ornatrix for Ghostanza. Their goal is to find the perfect stunning white cerussa. Flavia wants to be able to cover her mark. Ghostanza just wants to stay beautiful.
Sixteenth century Italy comes to life in this well written novel. The characters are humorous at times as well as showing their heartbreak, and in the case of Ghostanza, her vileness & cruelty.
The pursuit of beauty sometimes comes at a horrific price.
When her sister's wedding came about, Flavia ruins the wedding gown in a jealous rage. She is then packed up & exiled to a convent. There she meets Ghostanza, a mean & evil spirited former courtesan. Her life is nothing but the ultimate beauty, striving for perfection & wanting nothing more than to be admired. Flavia becomes the ornatrix for Ghostanza. Their goal is to find the perfect stunning white cerussa. Flavia wants to be able to cover her mark. Ghostanza just wants to stay beautiful.
Sixteenth century Italy comes to life in this well written novel. The characters are humorous at times as well as showing their heartbreak, and in the case of Ghostanza, her vileness & cruelty.
The pursuit of beauty sometimes comes at a horrific price.
May 21, 2021
3.5 stars. I have not been pulling quotes from books when I write my reviews, mostly because once I write a review I rarely have the book in my possession anymore, but with this one I made an exception.
"Death only happens once to a man. A woman must bear it each time a shaft of sunlight strikes her unkindly and she sees her face remapped without permission." - Ghostanza
Phew. What a book. I loved the concept and the details of this book. The characters were interesting, and the plot had me rooting for Flavia even through all of her (realistic) flaws. Despite that, I did find this book lacking. Like another reviewer, I thought the end was kind of out of left field. It was poetic justice, but its not the best version I've seen in a novel. I know it's not a romance, but I also wanted to know so much more about Vitale. Overall, the cover is the most exquisite part of this book, but there are some gems in there that make it worth the .5 extra stars.
"Death only happens once to a man. A woman must bear it each time a shaft of sunlight strikes her unkindly and she sees her face remapped without permission." - Ghostanza
Phew. What a book. I loved the concept and the details of this book. The characters were interesting, and the plot had me rooting for Flavia even through all of her (realistic) flaws. Despite that, I did find this book lacking. Like another reviewer, I thought the end was kind of out of left field. It was poetic justice, but its not the best version I've seen in a novel. I know it's not a romance, but I also wanted to know so much more about Vitale. Overall, the cover is the most exquisite part of this book, but there are some gems in there that make it worth the .5 extra stars.
August 7, 2017
4.0
Kudos to the author for the unusual treatment of unusual subject matter! Definitely not a beach read nor a trite 'romance.' Instead, a period piece chock full of class tensions, gender warfare, ruminations on beauty. The minutiae of everyday life and a varied cast -- domestics, an apothecary, a medieval physician --- bring dimension and depth.
The first chapter or two require some work as the style tends toward choppy sentences. Overlook Press, the imprint, gets a heckle for sloppy line editing. Missing pronouns and prepositions. Try hiring English speakers to do the final read through!
Kudos to the author for the unusual treatment of unusual subject matter! Definitely not a beach read nor a trite 'romance.' Instead, a period piece chock full of class tensions, gender warfare, ruminations on beauty. The minutiae of everyday life and a varied cast -- domestics, an apothecary, a medieval physician --- bring dimension and depth.
The first chapter or two require some work as the style tends toward choppy sentences. Overlook Press, the imprint, gets a heckle for sloppy line editing. Missing pronouns and prepositions. Try hiring English speakers to do the final read through!
November 27, 2017
The culture of physical beauty at any cost in 16th century Italy is the focus of this novel. Flavia, a girl born with a disfiguring birthmark on her face, is hidden from the outside world by her mother. When the girl acts out during a fit of anger, she is sent to serve in a convent where she met another exile, a Venetian courtesan named Ghostanza. Ghostanza claimed Flavia to be her ornatrix, a personal hairdresser and handmaiden. This story is dark with sometimes disgusting descriptions of behavior and culture in that period, yet the story held my interest to the end--just to see how or where the tale was going. I'd hesitate to recommend it to others, however.
January 23, 2017
I was really looking for to this book based on the reviews. I definitely like my books with good worldbuilding and detail and the author gets an A+ for her depth of detail, but I had to give this book low stars because I just didn't care about any of her characters. I thought there were big gaps in their backstories that weren't addressed and the fact that none of them were particularly likeable didn't help. The ended was completely unexpected, though not in a bad way, she did tie the loose ends up for most characters well, but went off the rails for others. All in all, not my favorite.
November 8, 2019
Almost gave up on this several times. Got to the end and kind of wished I had. A very long winded commentary about the meaning of beauty both inside and out. It had it's moments but they were few and far between and drowned in amongst the rest of the slow, dull, pointless stuff.
I can see that it has a literary style that some will love - I also suspect that it has real Marmite reviews that will range from gushing 5 stars to mine. It's not that it's a bad book more that it's really not my thing in any way, shape or form
I can see that it has a literary style that some will love - I also suspect that it has real Marmite reviews that will range from gushing 5 stars to mine. It's not that it's a bad book more that it's really not my thing in any way, shape or form
March 17, 2021
A fab read set in Italy. Flavia is born with a disfiguring mark on her face and her mother keeps her hidden from people. But when an incident occurs at her sister's wedding Flavia is packed off to the local convent. Here she meets Ghostanza a rich widow and former courtesan who appears stunningly beautiful. Flavia soon discovers that Ghostanza needs lots of potions to keep her beautiful and that underneath is a woman with an ugly personality. Beautifully written and wonderfully descriptive.
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