"But Always Fine Bourbon" is the story of the Stitzel Weller Distillery, which, for a large part of the 20th century was known for making the finest bourbon in the world. It's the tale of the Van Winkle family, of the legendary "Pappy" Van Winkle, of an era when businesses were still run by larger-than-life men who had other priorties than maximizing the bottom line. It's the story of the American the creation of a family company, so common a part of this country's history, but now disappearing in our age of mergers and acquisitions. It's a story anyone with an interest in bourbon, or Kentucky, or the history of this country will relish. The book is filled with large beautiful photographs.
The journey of the Van Winkle family creates a sense of passion and awe among bourbon enthusiasts. Pappy was a stoic man of legend; a gentleman and bull of the industry denouncing chemistry and utilizing good ole tradition ("nature, and the old-time know-how") amongst maximizing flavor versus squeezing out extra dimes per corn bushel. His legacy lives on as a grand supporter of the Kentucky distillers (making whiskeys for Brown-Forman & Old Kentucky after the repeal of Prohibition) to giving Bill Samuel's Sr. the reputed Old Fitzgerald mash recipe (along with a yeast strand) to create the Maker's Mark line. So much contribution from 4 generations of the Van Winkles truly sheds light on wheated whiskeys, aging potentials, limestone water, along with Kentucky air giving way to the keys of the Van Winkle family and the motto: WE MAKE FINE BOURBON, AT A PROFIT IF WE CAN, AT A LOSS IF WE MUST, BUT ALWAYS FINE BOURBON.
When looking at the South as a whole, this really denotes just how captivating our subsection of the union really is as storytellers... The world's greatest whiskey at one point was the Bonded Old Fitzgerald whose rise to fame was simply due to a security guards private collection at a rick house. Long live John Fitzgerald and may his legacy continue through the Heaven Hill portfolio...
I thought this was a fascinating story about the history of not only one particular premium bourbon in Kentucky, but also of the entire bourbon industry. From the 1850's to today, the story of Kentucky's culture of fine spirits has been one of family and values, of struggle and hardship, and of companies dying and rebirthing. Campbell relates the story of her family and of the family's bourbon like no one else could, and her pride in the story shines through. Here's to Old Pappy Van Winkle and the next generation of fine bourbon!
I would recommend this book to anyone who is into bourbon, solely for historical reasons. If you can afford the coffee table book, then I'd definitely pick this up. If you are reading electronically, then I'd say it's short enough to get through in just a few days, so it's not too bad.