जब मैंने इस पुस्तक के बारे में पहली सुना था तो शीर्षक से लगा था कि हिंदी पट्टी का कोई आंचलिक यात्रा – वृतांत है| यह भारत के छोटे से अंचल मुख्यभूमि की निगाह से उस उत्तर पूर्व का शोध – विवेचन है, जिसे भारतीय देशप्रेम चीन समझने की हठ करता रहता है| पुस्तक खुद को बिना विराम और लघु विराम के पढ़ाती है| आपको “चिकेन नेक कॉरिडोर” (जलपाईगुड़ी) से आगे ले जाने के बाद सरल बारीक़ विस्तृत रोचक विवरण के साथ यह पुस्तक आपकी गर्दन पकड़ कर रखती है और बार बार पढ़े जाने के आग्रह रखती है| यह मेरे जैसे अधजल गगरी मुख्यभूमि वालों के लिए सन्दर्भ ग्रन्थ का काम कर सकती है मगर लेखक कहीं भी इस प्रकार का कोई आग्रह करता हुआ प्रतीत नहीं होता| पुस्तक के पीछे छपे ज्ञानरंजन के शब्द मुझसे यह आग्रह जरूर करते प्रतीत होते हैं मगर दुर्भाग्य से आधुनिक भारत तो ज्ञानरंजन को भी नहीं जानता|
आप कब दिल्ली से चलते चलते उत्तरपूर्व के दूरदराज में पहुँचते जाते है पता ही नहीं लगता| पुस्तक का प्रताप है कि जब अभी नागालैंड में एक आरोपी को जेल से बाहर कर क़त्ल कर दिया गया तो मैं मीडिया में दिए गए सारे दृष्टिकोण आसानी से समझ पाया|
“लघु राज्यों के राजा अपने लोगों को समझा रहे थे की १५ जनवरी १९४७ को असं के राज्यपाल अकबर हैदरी और खासी राज्यों के बीच जो समझौता हुआ था उसके मुताबिक रक्षा, मुद्रा और विदेश मसलों को छोड़कर बाकी सारे मामले उनके अधीन होने चाहिए| बाद में धोखे से इन राज्यों को संविधान की छठी अनुसूची में डालकर पारंपरिक ढंग से प्रशासन चलाने के लिए खासी, गारो और जयंतिया जिलों में स्वायत्तशासी परिषदों की स्थापना की गई| इस कारण सीयेम नाम के राजा रह गए हैं| अब परिषदें उन्हें मोहरों की तरह हटाती और बिठाती रहती हैं|”
यह सुचना पुस्तक में बहुत साधारण तरीके से दी गई है| परन्तु जब मैं इसे जोधपुर समेत कई रियासतों के विरोध के भारत में विलय के सेकड़ों समझौतों, और बाद में इंदिरा गाँधी द्वारा संविधान संशोधन के साथ भूतपूर्व रजवाड़ों के प्रिवीपर्स ख़त्म करने के लोकप्रिय और अदूरदर्शी निर्णय के साथ पढ़ता हूँ तो चिंता होने लगती है| शुक्र है कि वह मामला अभी क़ानूनी विश्लेषणों में ही फंसा हुआ है|
“ज्यादातर असमिया हिन्दू गाँव किसी न किसी मठ से सम्बद्ध हैं और वहाँ के सामाजिक जीवन में नामघर की केन्द्रीय भूमिका होती है|… … इधर हिन्दू कट्टरपंथ के प्रभाव में कुछ इलाकों में महिलाओं के महीने में पाँच दिन नामघर आने पर रोक लगा दी गई है, जिसका विरोध शहरों के नारीवादी संगठन कर रहे है|”
“ये फुल बिरले ही खिलते हैं लेकिन जब आते हैं तो प्रकृति नया असंतुलन पैदा करती है|… … इन्हीं फूलों ने मिजोरम में उग्रवाद की नींव रखी थी और पूर्वोत्तर का इतिहास, भूगोल दोनों बदल दिया था| तब मिजोरम असम का एक जिला हुआ करता था जिसे लुसाई हिल्स कहा जाता था|”
“सब्जी मंडी का हर्बल देखकर समझ आ गया कि दीमापुर से यहाँ के रास्ते में इतना सन्नाटा क्यों था| जानवर और पक्षी पीढ़ियों के अनुभव से जानते हैं, वन्यजीवप्रेमियों और पर्यावरणविदों के चिकने काग़ज वाले दस्तावेज़ों से पुकार कितनी ही काव्यात्मक क्यों न हो, इक बार छेमोकेडिमा का इनरलाइन बैरियर पार करने के बाद वे जिन्दा वापस नहीं लौट पाएँगे|”
इसी तरह की कुछ साधारण सी सूचनाएं इस पुस्तक में लगभग हर पृष्ठ पर अंकित है जिन्हें समझने के लिए समय, सुविधा, संस्कार और समृद्धि की आवश्यकता नहीं है| बहुत कुछ है जिसे पढ़ा जाना चाहिए| सब कुछ यहाँ बता देना पुस्तक की रोचकता को समाप्त कर देगा| पुस्तक किसी पुस्तकालय में बैठ कर नहीं लिखी गई है, सामान्य जन जीवन की वह कहानी है जिसे हम अक्सर नहीं देख पाते| हर दिन को आँख कान नाक खोल कर जिया गया है, बंदूकों और मौत के साये में| जहाँ सेना और ढेर सारे उग्रवादी दिन के हिसाब से लड़ रहे है, आकड़ों के हिसाब से मर रहे है, बयानों के हिसाब से नकारे जा रहे है, राजनीति के हिसाब से प्रयोग हो रहे है और वक्त के हिसाब से काटे जा रहे है| इस किताब को पढ़ने से पहले और बाद, मैं अक्सर पूछता रहा हूँ, चम्बल के डकैत और भारत भर के उग्रवादियों में कितना अंतर हैं, जबाब आसन तो नहीं है, मगर मैंने उसे इस पुस्तक में भी ढूंडा है|
जीवन और भारतीयता के बहुत सारे जबाब प्रश्न बनकर यहाँ खड़े हुए हैं| अनिल यादव पढ़े जाने योग्य नहीं लिखकर लाये हैं वरन वो खुद को पढ़ा लिए जाने का माद्दा रखते हैं| अमृतलाल बेगड़ जिस श्रृद्धा से नर्मदा यात्रा करते हैं शायद अनिल यादव ने उस तरह का ही कोई विचार रख कर उस देस की यात्रा की है|
First things first: a majority of people in the country refer to the Northeast states of India as only ‘the Northeast’ which is technically wrong: ‘Northeast of what?’ is my response when people do this. The book title got it right but its pages are filled with ‘the Northeast’ ..sigh!
Published in 2012, Anil Yadav’s ‘Is that even a country, Sir! Journeys in Northeast India by Train, Bus and Tractor’ is about the author’s travels across six states in the region in 2000 and this translation from Hindi published last year is a bit late to capture the state of affairs in the region them. I have lived in Manipur and reported on political and social issues in the state as well as on Nagaland, Assam, Mizoram etc (co incidentally starting my writing career a year before the author forayed into the region) and can say that this boo would have turned out a lot better if the author had kept it as a travel memoir rather than a political commentary. The travel aspects of going across the 6 states are darkly humorous and in itself reflects the bad connectivity in the region (which holds true still) while the presence of the military and other non state armed forces tells readers about the growing unease and militarization here (which continues to this day). But when the author comments on the political history and other aspects of the people and the region, he falters badly and is out of depth for that is when his lack of effort in trying to understand the political thoughts and opinions comes across.
The Northeast part of the country is complex. We have our problems that are complex. We have fissures. But we have humour and beauty and lots of empathy. We have had a traumatic history with a colonial past and would so love to be not treated as a colony of the country. If this book had reflected just a bit on this, it would have been something else.
I was vaguely aware of Pakistan's Tribal Region, thanks to news coverage of the U.S.'s conflicts in the area, but before reading this book I was unaware that India had a Tribal Region as well. Nor was I aware of the long complicated history of violence in the area or that it continues to this day. In cse I didn't feel ignorant enough, I had no understanding of the geography of Northeast India, specifically that a large area of the country expands past Bangladesh all the way to the border with Myanmar.
In this book, two would-be journalists haphazardly travel through the embattled region in a vaguely-planned effort to advance their careers. Given their personal demons, precarious mental states, and thirst for alcohol and love of betel, I went into the book expecting Indian-flavored gonzo journalism in the spirit of Hunter S. Thompson. But while the author did absorb and explain a hallucigenically-sharp kaleidoscope of history, culture, and politics, he did not suffer from Mr. Thompson's compulsion to insert himself into his journalistic output.
Mostly, this is a poetic travelogue of a part of the world that bridges the ancient and the ultra-modern, where inter-tribal conflict plays out through contemporary political structures. All in all, it's not that different from a world lurking just below the supposedly-civilized veneer of my society.
Firstly,this book was written almost two decades ago.Things have changed for good in the 'North East'.Insurgency has reduced considerably and this region has also become a tourism hotspot.So don't go by the book as far as factual knowledge is concerned. There are two big flaws in the book: 1.There is not a single photo of the region the author visits. 2.There is a huge 'translation loss'. The book is unique but the English version is average and at the end the author has just rushed through. I would suggest that please read the Hindi version and avoid the English version.
This quirkily titled book is supposed to be a travelogue of the North East of India, but ends up being much more. While ostensibility the adventures of two young journalists on a shoe string budget it turns out to be a rambling commentary on the the place, people, its physical beauty, its blighted history, its insurgencies and the resultant society -an important book that is a must read, only because of how less most Indians know about this beautiful part of the country.
The first thing a well written travelogue should do is to decide the next travel destination for the reader. The book easily checks that box with its tantalizing descriptions of the lush fields, snow packed hills, orange laden trees , quaint small towns with their own food, liquor and intoxicants. There is an undercurrent of sex , drugs and rock and roll as well , if one is so inclined.
The book extensively speaks about how the people are struggling to align their age old tribal identities with their new acquired country and states. The author talks about the various insurgencies spawned by these struggles and how a lot of them have degenerated to mafia operations jockeying for control over the drug trade , propped up by India's neighbors. All of this seems to be have taken a toll on the society and specially the youth.
The most refreshing aspect of the book is the candor of the author's narration. His views are from the heart, strongly held, directly expressed while managing to not be dogmatic or pushing any agenda. It helped that I chose to read the book in Hindi, the language the author wrote in, despite being inspired to read the book by a review of the English translation.
Travel writing of the rough and raw kind by a broke journalist shouted at by Khushwant Singh for being disturbed by asking for 'contacts in the Northeast', this book is a window into the world of socialising that journalists do to get information- striking conversations with random strangers and getting a pulse of the place and people, often forming chains of contacts that take you to places no glossy tourist brochure ever will.
पूर्वोत्तर में 8 साल रहने के बाद जो स्मृतियां इकट्ठी की थीं वे वास्तविकता के नाखूनों से ऐसे ख़रोंचीं गईं हैं कि उन सभी दृश्यों से ख़ून छलछला उठा है।
पूर्वोत्तर की हरियाली लाल है। वादियाँ लाशों से पटी हैं।
शिलांग प्लेट्यू से दिखने वाली बांग्लादेश की नदियों की चांदी और ट्रकों की चीटियों से उपमा अभीभूत तो करती है, वहीं आदिवासियों द्वारा रेल की पटरी में फंसे हाथी को नोंच नोंच के ले जाने के बाद उसके बचे हुए कान की खोए हुए रुमाल से उपमा, बेचैन।
कभी गंभीर संवाद में अवधी का छौंक हमें अचानक ऐसे हंसा देता है मानो किसी ने नाक में फुन्तड़ी घुसा दी हो।
अनिल का सरोकार प्राकृतिक सौंदर्य से है ही नहीं। वे तो इस व्रत की स्पर्श रेखा की भांति गुज़र जाते हैं और इंसानी हालात के केंद्र से टकराते हैं। उन्हें सबसे विश्वसनीय सूचनाएं आदिवासियों, नाइयों और शराबियों से मिलती हैं।
वे अपने आप को जानबूझकर प्राकृतिक सौंदर्य के रोमांस से दूर रखते हैं। हालांकि पूर्वोत्तर का यह विवरण इतना समग्र और विस्तृत है कि शायद इस किताब के बाद पूर्वोत्तर में प्राकृतिक सौंदर्य के रोमांस के सिवा कुछ नहीं बचता।
This entire review has been hidden because of spoilers.
This is one hell of a book. Anil tells the tale of all North Eastern states, their culture, their history, tribal and non-tribal dynamics, how 'Delhi' is perceived and what it does there. THIS BOOK IS A MUST READ!
The author needs to be congratulated for producing an honest and sincere travelogue about India's relatively unknown northeastern region. He displays the courage to speak the truth about the socio-political and economic conditions therein even as the truth can, at times, be politically incorrect.
Yet, his opinions regarding a few issues, especially 'illegal' migration and 'position' of women, could be more nuanced. But, this can be attributed to the genre of the travelogue that he is working with- unlike a solid, non-fictional long narrative, a travelogue does not really allow the author to engage with different questions in depth.
जितना इस किताब के बारे में hype है वैसी तो नहीं लगी फिर भी ये उत्तर पूर्व के बारे में कुछ ऐसी जानकारियाँ अवश्य देती है जिसके बारे में अमूमन इस इलाके से जुड़े आलेखों में चर्चा नहीं होती। अगर उत्तर पूर्व के लोगों और वहाँ की राजनीति, उग्रवाद और संस्कृति में जानने में रुचि रखते हों तो जरूर पढ़ सकते हैं। विस्तृत चर्चा कभी बाद में..
I’m here to gather self-confidence to face my uncertainties.
“You can either light a bulb or look at the deer. You can’t do both together,” said the fisherman. The fisherman had no idea at all that he had captured the conflict between development and the environment with a flick of his fingers.
The bus would stop all at once; Ken would climb down to relieve themselves. Soon, it would seem as if silver cords connected to their navels were shimmering in the moonlight. Like they were nearly invisible kites being flown from a deep valley. This was the untrammelled pleasure of evacuation which was equally available to everyone in that terrifying battle-zone. But the casual freedom was the prerogative only of men. Women were deprived of the pleasure of carefree evacuation by their men who would perforce become their bodyguards.
In the Tibetan language, Tawang means chosen by a horse.
This is an account of author's journey through northeast India in the early 2000s.
It is not a travelogue which romances the beauty of northeast, It narrates the life of common people , various clashes between tribes, militants and army and the history and politics which separates the northeast from the rest of the country.
This is not an easy to read as there is difficulty in keeping up with the names, places and the book is not separated into any chapters, In a way this symbolizes the journey which was more of a wanderings than anything planned.
It was completely new experience for me visiting North-eastern states with Anil Yadav. Second travelogue of the writer I have read and he is so deep into locals, socio-cultural and political aspects of the societies he visits. बस चली तो एक लड़की ने कहा, "हिरन से ज्यादा एनजीओ तो अभी हो गए हैं, कुछ दिन बाद हिरन नहीं रहेगा सिर्फ एनजीओ बचेंगे." Rough translation - As the bus started, a girl said, "There are more NGOs than deer now. After a few days, there will be no deer and only NGOs will remain."
A travelogue that excels in story telling and creating characters but falters in the political commentary. It has bit of everything.. uncertainty, fear and hope. The author uses simple, and direct sentences, well-stocked with the emotions. The personal touch makes the book an honest and non-superficial read.
This book offers a peek into life and society in North East India. I thoroughly enjoyed the book's narrative and the honesty of the experiences, as noted in ink.
A thoroughly interesting and informative read about India's north-eastern states, I was longing to read a good travelogue in Hindi, this book more than fulfilled the desire.
Whenever I think about Northeast India, an image of exotic picturesque locale, usually advertised by tour & travel agencies, would come to my mind. But thanks to this book, it completely changed the way I look at the region.
In this book, author travels to the remotest places and shares his ground zero experience of brutal day to day life of the region, which mainstream media often shies away from showing. Author succeeded in portraying how alienated Northeast is from the rest of the country, not necessarily geographically but in every aspect.
I wasn't aware of the seriousness of the insurgencies in the region until I read this book. There are numerous insurgent groups across the region with varying ideologies, representing each and every tribe. Some are still active, some are dormant and some are branded as terrorist organisations by Government Of India. I was surprised to know that citizens from rest of the country need 'Inner Line Permit' to enter some of the states and remaining states of the region are demanding the same kind of system. Such is their contempt towards 'outsiders'. Though it was a bit indigestible initially, having learnt about their histories and their strong inherent sense of loyalty towards their community, one couldn't help but empathise with them.
The problems of the region are much more complex than of many other parts of the country. No wonder Government of India failed to understand their problems from last seven decades let alone solving them. Nevertheless one should appreciate the fact that they have come a long way from 'head hunting' rituals to believing in democratic processes in a very short span of time.
I always wanted to read a travelogue and having spent my early years in Northeast, this book was ticking all the boxes. Though it is originally written in Hindi but the translations were nicely done and rarely you would feel its not the original language.
This book is not a touristy one which you must read and visit North East. Even this book is not written to showcase Northeast in its pomp and splendour with breathtaking advertisement of its beauty.
This book is about the one persons journey through Northeast's underbelly and discovery of the political situation there. The book shows you crime, perseverance and resolve that is prevailing in Northeast. How the author decided to take the arduous journey to discover Northeast and people he found to make it a success is inspiring for any traveller (not tourist).
A must read book if you want to know Northeast better. An even important read if you want to travel without inhibition and discover new places.
Great book and an original voice. One problem is that the anecdotes are abrupt and all too short. One wishes that the author had taken a little more time to flesh out the cast of interesting characters found in the book. The author had traveled to the Northeast in 2000, though the book was published in 2012. So it is not a very current description of the situation. All in all a recommended read.
यह यात्रा वृतांत या कहे डायरी पूर्वोत्तर भारत या सेवेन सिस्टर्स के सांस्कृतिक और राजनैतिक इतिहास की कहानी कहता है जो हमारे अवधारणाओं के परे बिलकुल ही अलग है। एक बेबाक वृतांत उनके लिए जो पूर्वोत्तर भारत को नजदीक से जानना चाहते हैं समझना चाहते है। बहुत सारी भ्रांतिया दूर हुई सेवेन सिस्टर्स के बारे में। उनके लोगों के बारे में। सबके पढ़ने योग्य।