Théâtre de la Mode: Fashion Dolls: The Survival of Haute Couture

by Edmond Charles-Roux, Herbert R. Lottman, Stanley Garfinkel

Harnessing the romance of the world of fashion and high art, this fascinating story of a collection of miniature mannequins describes the birth of Theatre de la Mode, the Theater of Fashion. Full of stars such as Robert Ricci (Nina Ricci's son), filmmaker Jean Cocteau, and other members of the 1944 haute couture industry, the story follows 237 miniature fashion dolls through their epic tour of Europe and North America, bringing fashion, elegance, and beauty into a war-torn world. Also included are new colour photographs of the mannequins, the reconstructed sets, and close-up details of clothing so sewers, designers, and fashion mavens can appreciate the creativity of Paris designers at the end of World War II.

Genres: Nonfiction, Fashion, History, Art

192 pages, Paperback

First published September 1, 2002

Reviews

[Greg · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating story of, well, "the survival of Haute Couture" through the use of mannequins and exquisite fashion. There are names everywhere such as Cocteau, who directed the first film version of "Beauty and the Beast". From the idea to the construction of the wire mannequins to the design of the clothing to the inventive settings to the tours of the "Dolls", this is one unique read. I'd give this five stars, but often I couldn't grasp the size of the dolls nor the size of the sets: even though the photographs are beautiful, there are very few long shots revealing sizes in context of, say, a museum show. I just couldn't get a feeling for what one might experience at said museum. Maybe that's the point: to get readers to the shows, but for me I may never have the opportunity to see a show and thus never grasp the entire visual concept.

[dejah_thoris · Rating 4 out of 5]

Most of us have never considered the impact World War II had on French culture, much less the haute couture houses of Paris, but this book brings it to life. Struggling through material shortages, fighting with the Germans for more rations, and flaunting the style they had despite their plight created a fashion show, in miniature, that toured the world and helped fund couture's revival. (Keep in mind the couture houses were employing thousands of people to create their collections, which then inspired thousands more dressmakers to recreate their looks.) The story of rediscovering and restoring the dolls and their backdrops is as wonderful as the story of their creation. Created just before Dior broke onto the scene with the New Look, these models depict both the fashion of the future and the fashion of moment. For those dying to examine them in more detail, this oversize book brings them right to your nose or you can visit the Maryhill Museum of Art and see them in their proper settings at the proper scale. This is definitely a must-read for all fashion historians.

[Jan · Rating 4 out of 5]

A fascinating account of the tenacity, perseverance, and determination of haute couture and the people of Paris in the face of oppression and deprivation during and after the years of occupation. While it is a book about fashion, the accounts and descriptions of life in Paris during those years are what really makes this book. The photography is beautiful, the essays intriguing, and the fashions delicious.

[Sandra de Helen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fabulous book showing all surviving designs and backgrounds (both original and re-created) of the fashion dolls that helped haute couture survive after WWII. The book included enlarged photos so designers and sewists can view the exquisite detail of many of the designs which include the dresses, suits, pants, jackets, coats, hats, gloves, belts, shoes, even jewelry. We are lucky to have the surviving dolls and their outfits at the Maryhill Museum in the Columbia Gorge, only 100 miles from Portland, Oregon.

[Caroline E. · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a gloriously researched and photographed book that covers a little known (at least to me) fashion collection that was created right after the end of WWII when fabric was extremely scarce. I first learned about this from the “Articles of Interest” podcast and would encourage any lover of fashion and fashion history to pick up a copy of the wonderful book.

[Awjtf · Rating 4 out of 5]

Wonderful book!

[Evelyn A. Ashley · Rating 5 out of 5]

A friend told me about these dolls because I’ve been working on a mixed media art project of dresses-drawn, assemblage and sewn. This book and the story of how these dolls were created, forgotten and brought back - plus the art itself is pure inspiration. I’ve got a trip to the Merryhill Museum to see them on my travel wishlist!