An original look at southern heirloom cooking with a focus on history, heritage, and variety.
You expect to hear about restaurant kitchens in Charleston, New Orleans, or Memphis perfecting plates of the finest southern cuisine—from hearty red beans and rice to stewed okra to crispy fried chicken. But who would guess that one of the most innovative chefs cooking heirloom regional southern food is based not in the heart of biscuit country, but in the grain-fed Midwest—in Chicago, no less? Since 2008, chef Paul Fehribach has been introducing Chicagoans to the delectable pleasures of Lowcountry cuisine, while his restaurant Big Jones has become a home away from home for the city’s southern diaspora. From its inception, Big Jones has focused on cooking with local and sustainably grown heirloom crops and heritage livestock, reinvigorating southern cooking through meticulous technique and the unique perspective of its Midwest location. And with The Big Jones Cookbook , Fehribach brings the rich stories and traditions of regional southern food to kitchens everywhere.
Fehribach interweaves personal experience, historical knowledge, and culinary creativity, all while offering tried-and-true takes on everything from Reezy-Peezy to Gumbo Ya-Ya, Chicken and Dumplings, and Crispy Catfish. Fehribach’s dishes reflect his careful attention to historical and culinary detail, and many recipes are accompanied by insights about their origins. In addition to the regional chapters, the cookbook features sections on breads, from sweet potato biscuits to spoonbread; pantry put-ups like bread and butter pickles and chow-chow; cocktails, such as the sazerac; desserts, including Sea Island benne cake; as well as an extensive section on snout-to-tail cooking, including homemade Andouille and pickled pigs’ feet.
Proof that you need not possess a thick southern drawl to appreciate the comfort of creamy grits and the skill of perfectly fried green tomatoes, The Big Jones Cookbook will be something to savor regardless of where you set your table.
When I read the introduction, discovering the author of this volume grew up in the north, I was skeptical of his ability to write a cookbook on Southern cuisine. I discovered his passion for eating fresh food came from time spent at his grandparents' Indiana farm. He likes to think he developed his love for Southern cuisine which also tended to use local ingredients from time spent there. He often gives dishes a bit of a chef's twist which probably does not settle well with some Southerners, but his Chicago audience might not like the food that came off grandma's table quite as much. His best dishes are the ones that stick to the simplicity of a true Southern home cook. When he ventures into dishes such as Duck Confit, he's venturing into fancy restaurant cuisine that most Southern farm folks wouldn't know. I'm impressed with the number of older cookbooks which influenced his style and the way he has seriously studied Southern cuisine to try to remain somewhat true to the style. This was a free ebook download from University of Chicago Press in December 2018. Nothing was expected in exchange for the download.
Nice book that I'm jealous of, because it has accomplished what I've been wanting to do, which is to write a cookbook with stories around each recipe. The author here, includes a lot of history as well as some personal anecdotes. I learned about the difference between Cajun and Creole and the reasons why they are confused by so many; the difference between black and red boudin; and what tmakes cuisine of the Carolinas so special.