Sunlight at Midnight (2001), W. Bruce Lincoln's final (and unfinished upon his death) work, is a thorough, if verging on melodramatic, introduction to the art, architecture, literature, and music of St. Petersburg from its founding in 1703 to the 1980s. W. Bruce Lincoln clearly knew his history and strives admirably to integrate the history of Petersburg with the history of Russia as a whole.
Lincoln, who taught at Northern Illinois University for thirty years, obtained his doctorate in the 1960s and passed away nine years after the Soviet Union fell. Accordingly, Sunlight at Midnight reflects archaic ways of looking at Russian history and culture. There is, for instance, the claim (disproved by Alexander Poznansky and other scholars in the 1990s) that Tchaikovsky was tormented by his sexuality and committed suicide. But there is also the tendency to romanticize the so-called Russian spirit on almost every page; the preoccupation with great forces, great men, and great tides of oppressed (and generally nameless) masses; the characterization of Russia in terms of extremes (the penultimate chapter describes St. Petersburg as a "lonely, intimate, grandiose, beautiful, oppressive, romantic, ephemeral, isolationist, and apocalyptic" city). To some extent, Sunlight at Midnight exemplifies the kind of exoticization that more recent scholarship of Russia tries to avoid. It is all too easy for Westerners to fall into the trap of thinking that Raskolnikov's musings, Akhmatova's suffering, the siege, and other widely-publicized Petersburg phenomena reflect some sort of heroic, oppressed, tragic, etc., etc. "character", while dismissing the perspectives of people who do not fit the stereotype. But Lincoln is not wrong to observe that as a collective, Petersburg's artists and writers — the real protagonists of Sunlight at Midnight — were fascinated with their own city. Gogol himself famously exhorted his readers not to "believe this Nevsky Prospekt", for it was full of contradictions and deceit.
It goes without saying that visiting St. Petersburg is the best way to understand it, but understandably that may not be feasible (or desirable, given U.S.-Russia relations). For the serious Petersburg enthusiast, I would recommend Julie Buckler's Mapping St. Petersburg (2005) over Sunlight at Midnight. It is more scholarly than casual, but it avoids the exoticization that tinges Lincoln's writing and is more coherently organized (Lincoln has a tendency to leap from subject to subject without much warning). The casual reader should read Sunlight with a critical eye. I also *strongly* recommend reading the Petersburg literature that Lincoln discusses: Crime and Punishment, "The Bronze Horseman," Akhmatova's Requiem, Blok's "The Twelve," Gippius, Berggolts, etc. Though Sunlight is an apt introduction, there's really no shortcut when it comes to literature: you just have to read it yourself.