The abbey at Mont-Saint Michel and the cathedral at Chartres are the subject of Henry Adams’ history, self-published in 1904 for the education of his nieces and “nieces in wish” but later released by Ralph Adams Cram with the support of the American Institute of Architects. This history takes in not only the architecture of these two buildings, but a detailed examination of poetry, religion, science, art and philosophy. It is a precise and understanding deconstruction of life in twelfth century France. By taking just two buildings as his focal point, Adams was better able to reveal the spirit of the century, and with more erudite skill than almost everyone since.
Mont-Saint Michel’s importance in history is evident in every step one takes within it. The weight of history is accumulated here, it is breathed in everywhere. Made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, Mont-Saint Michel is now protected against invasion, development and rivalry. The town of Chartres, south of Paris, is another place enveloped in history – there has been settlement there since Roman times – but unlike Mont-Saint Michel which withstood many invasions and attacks, Chartres suffered frequently, and greatly, especially during the Second World War. Remarkably the religious buildings at both sites survived these onslaughts almost intact, though both suffered at the hands of successive generations that wrought upon them their own distinct style.
As we can ascertain from The Education of Henry Adams (1907), Henry Adams first visited France in the late 1850s, following his graduation from Harvard University. He said of time in France in that book:
“He squandered two or three months on Paris. From the first he had avoided Paris, and had wanted no French influence in his education. He disapproved of France in the lump… He disliked most the French mind. To save himself the trouble of drawing up a long list of all that he disliked, he disapproved of the whole, once for all, and shut them figuratively out’ of his life. France was not serious, and he was not serious in going there.” (p.81, Education of Henry Adams)
The Education of Henry Adams is a book of his education in all things and of how his mind becomes changed, and so sometime between 1857 and the opening of the twentieth century, Adams came to respect France.
Mont-Saint-Michel and Chartres takes the form of a monologue from “uncle” Adams to his “niece”, and as such has at times a very conversational tone. His introduction is such like:
“The party, then, with such variations of detail as may suit its tastes, has sailed from New York, let us say, early in June for an entire summer in France. One pleasant June morning it has landed at Cherbourg or Havre and takes the train across Normandy to Pontorson, where, with the evening light, the tourists drive along the chaussee, over the sands or through the tide, till they stop at Madame Poulard’s famous hotel within the Gate of the Mount.” (Preface, Mont-Saint-Michel)
Despite this tone, Adam’s work contains a wealth of detail. He refers to the reader as “tourist” and says he does not need to go into great detail for tourists never do: but he does, and frequently. It is the detail of the place that most excites him. It is a work engaged with the history of the place at every level, and Adams manages to bring to life a long forgotten world. His version of Pierre Abelard (whose letters to Heloise were examined earlier on this blog) comes to life on the page, as does St. Francis and all the other figures of twelfth century life that circle around Mont Saint Michel and Chartres. There is even poetry in his detail.
“For seven hundred years Chartres has seen pilgrims, coming and going more or less like us, and will perhaps see them for another seven hundred years; but we shall see it no more, and can safely leave the Virgin in her majesty, with her three great prophets on either hand, as calm and confident in their own strength and in God’s providence as they were when Saint Louis was born, but looking down from a deserted heaven, into an empty church, on a dead faith.” (P.197, ibid)
This also points to one of the most interesting contradictions in Adams work. As we saw in his novel Esther (1884) the debate between science and religion has been a crux of Adams’ life. In his Education he says of his youth, “but neither to him nor to his brothers or sisters was religion real.” (P.27, Education) By 1904 it is a “dead faith” and yet the debates of religion and of church construction are of deep fascination to this man of knowledge.
Mont-Saint-Michel and Chartres is also engaged with another subject, explored also in Esther, and that is the position of women. Adams was very much for women’s liberation – his life had been dedicated to freeing those who suffered repression – and this work, dedicated to his “nieces” shows a deep understanding of the role of women in twelfth century society – from the Virgin Mary to Heloise:
“At any time of her life, Heloise would have defied society or church, and would at least in the public’s fancy have taken Abelard by the hand and gone off to the forest much more readily than she went to the cloister; but Abelard would have made a poor figure as Tristan. Abelard and Christian of Troyes were as remote as we are from the legendary Tristan; but Isolde and Heloise, Eleanor and Mary were the immortal and eternal woman.” (P.221, Mont-Saint-Michel)
Adams continues to rhapsodise upon this issue, culminating in one of his most eulogist passages:
“The fact, conspicuous above all other historical certainties about religion, that the Virgin was by essence illogical, unreasonable and feminine, is the only fact of any ultimate value worth studying, and starts a number of questions that history has shown itself clearly afraid to touch. Protestant and Catholic differ little in that respect. No one has ventured to explain why the Virgin wielded exclusive power over poor and rich, sinners and saints, alike. Why were all the Protestant churches cold failures without her help? Why could not the Holy Ghost the spirit of Love and Grace equally answer their prayers? Why was the Son powerless? Why was Chartres Cathedral in the thirteenth century like Lourdes to-day the expression of what is in substance a separate religion? Why did the gentle and gracious Virgin Mother so exasperate the Pilgrim Father? Why was the Woman struck out of the Church and ignored in the State? These questions are not antiquarian or trifling in historical value; they tug at the very heart-strings of all that makes whatever order is in the cosmos. If a Unity exists, in which and toward which all energies centre, it must explain and include Duality, Diversity, Infinity Sex!” (P.261, ibid)
His engagement with philosophy is also of deep fascination. Adams frequently displays his knowledge but is not condescending of excluding with it.
“If God is everywhere; wholly; presiding, sustaining, embracing and filling, “sursum regens, deorsum continens,” He is the only possible energy, and leaves no place for human will to act. A force which is “one and the same and wholly everywhere” is more Spinozist than Spinoza, and is likely to be mistaken for frank pantheism by the large majority of religious minds who must try to understand it without a theological course in a Jesuit college.” (p.286, ibid)
His expositions take in the most diverse of subjects, from Spinoza, to the Chanson de Roland and the writings of other deep thinkers. His work shows a willingness to engage with life, to debate its intricacies. Adams says, “Freedom could not exist in nature, or even in God, after the single, unalterable act or will which created.” (P.369) This becomes the nexus of art borne of religion. He goes on to say:
“The theology turns always into art at the last, and ends in aspiration… All they saw was the soul vanishing into the skies. How it was done, one does not care to ask; in a result so exquisite, one has not the heart to find fault with “adresse.”” (p.379)
There are many other exquisite ideas contained within Adams work and is worth tracking down a copy. History can only be glad that Ralph Adams Cram saw fit to rescue this work from its relative obscurity and bring it forth to a grateful public. It is a work of such education and erudition that to sum it up successfully is impossible. All I can do is urge you to read it yourself. If you have any interest in religion, architecture, history, poetry, or philosophy Adams’ Mont-Saint-Michel and Chartres is essential.