I just don’t know how to rate this cookbook, written by the Latina wife of a Peruvian and their daughter. It’s not that the cookbook is not authentic; it’s kind of because the cookbook is too authentic. Please, let me explain.
First of all, the recipes lean heavily on ingredients you simply can’t get in 99% of the United States. If you live in L.A., New York City, Chicago or Miami, you probably can’t get huacatay leaves, ají amarillo paste, ground or fresh maca, ají panca paste, passion fruit juice, mirasol paste, fig leaves, tamarillos (not to be confused with tomatillos, which are now readily available), banana leaves, chulpe (dried corn), ají limo, fiery rocotos, fresh hearts of palm — well, you get the idea.
But second of all, most of these dishes will seem very — well, foreign to American tastes. Authors Morena Cuadra and Morena Escardó tell you how to make some of these chile pastes at home. And, sure, you can substitute yellow bell peppers the Peruvian ají amarillio, fresh mozzarella for queso fresco, and jalapeños or habaneros for rocotos or ají limos, and a mixture of mint and basil for huacatay. Lots of the recipes have ingredients available in everyone’s pantry, like mayonnaise, ketchup and oregano. But that’s not the real issue.
I’m Cuban, so I’m used to finding raisins in ground beef dishes, dishes with potatoes and rice (really carby), all kinds of empanadas and lots of other recipes unknown in the American Midwest, but I can’t see my in-laws thinking raisins belong in savory dishes or pineapple chunks have a place in a corn-and-avocado salad. I read the ingredients for Ocopa, a cold potato appetizer, which includes a sauce of onions, garlic, animal crackers (not a typo!), evaporated milk, peanuts and a hot chile paste, and all I could do was shake my head. I wouldn’t mind eating that (if they toned down the heat), but not too many gringos would be as adventurous.
So you know who you are; I don’t. If you’re a Brooklyn foodie, don’t be too snobby because this book is perfect for you. Same for anyone who loved Anthony Bourdain’s food travel videos. I’m not in either of those leagues, but I’m really intrigued by quite a few of the recipes; however, I’m Latina and used to slightly similar fare (not as much mayonnaise, hard-boiled eggs or lime and no hot chiles, thank you). But if you live in Peoria or Oklahoma City or Coeur d’Alene, I’m pretty sure this is not for you.