Stephanie Griest managed to spend a year abroad for school, obtain grants and jobs, and travel to several countries in the communist bloc. In this book, she writes about her year in Moscow, Beijing, and a few weeks in Havana. She was inspired to these things when she heard a talk by a journalist describing what she perceived as a pretty exciting life. She asked him what she had to do to get a job like his. He said to study journalism and learn Russian, so that is what she did.
I found this to be a wonderful and fun travelogue describing a young woman's experiences in communist or post-communist countries in the 90s. It certainly gives a good idea of what life was like and how it was lived during these times. However, for me the most enjoyable part was watching the author's cognitive growth as she compared her own culture to other cultures. Some of the things she had to wrestle with to understand were small, e.g. her difficulty finding a volunteer position. She wanted to more deeply experience the life around her and thought becoming involved in a local organization would be helpful and keep her away from the temptation of the easy way of hanging around with ex-pats. There is difficulty in getting people to understand what she would like to do because they don't get the concept of volunteering. Finally, they say, "Ohhhh! That's communism! We don't have to do that anymore!" However, she finally finds an orphanage that is willing to take her on. She is not happy with the way the children are treated and learns a lot about preparing children to live in a society unlike her own.
Another thing she experiences is coming across a dead man in a grocery, just lying in the aisle, his purchases around him, no one paying any attention. Than another customer appears and begins taking his purchases of food for herself. Griest does not know what to do and finally flees. This causes her great remorse. It reminded me of when I was in Panama, in the countryside outside of Colon, being shown around with a group of GI's with a Panamanian citizen and friend serving as a a guide and driver. We came upon a body in a ditch and didn't know if he was alive or not. We wanted to investigate, but our Panamanian friend/driver said we needed to get the hell out of there before we were involved in a nightmare. As Griest wrestles with this horror, she, as usual, makes comparisons to her own culture. It is so easy to be horrified by "the other". Her thoughts reminded me of times in the U.S. when witnesses have failed to come to the aid of rape victims, murder victims, assault victims. Is that worse than ignoring someone who is already dead?
Griest continued to make comparisons on a trip to the countryside with a local friend. She was struck by the generous hospitality, to the point of having difficulty eating all of the food that she was expected to eat or hosts would be insulted. She also noted "As we drove deep into the countryside we seemed to transcend a year a mile." Gone were the more modern accouterments of city life, such as bathrooms. She also noticed the effort people put into making their homes beautiful, with hanging rugs, art, etc. She noticed that each home she entered was decorated in a very similar manner, and realized she was looking at people using what was made available to them such as certain types of rugs. She thought about the fact that in the U.S. it was similar in that we decorate in similar manners also, but that in Russia it was about supply, whereas in the U.S. we demand our decor. Not sure I agree with that - I get her point, but I get pretty cranky about the things offered in our stores here in the U.S. also. If you aren't wanting the current styles, good luck finding anything different. Perhaps this is one reason vintage items are so popular here now.
Griest is also a little obsessed with revolutions, wanting people to continue to be politically active and push for more. She wonders why she keeps seeing old Russian vets laying flowers on Lenin and Stalin's graves and doesn't understand why they still honor them. She wonders if it is for the same reason her own country reveres Christopher Columbus, a man who obliterated entire populations of indigenous people so that his own kind could steal their land and riches? Do human beings inherently need to make heroes out of their nations and founders?
In Beijing when she wonders what happened after Tiananmen Square, what happened to that spirit and again, why aren't people still fighting for more? She learned from her friends that they are focused on the economy and living a better life, which they are doing. They tell her that her systems is corrupt as well and it isn't the system so much as human nature - there will be corruption no matter which system so they don't care which system, they just want to live as best they can.
Griest manages to make many deep friendships with locals who help her to understand what she is seeing, and to see the commonalities in our human nature and needs across cultures as well as the differences. She struggles mightily with all of these issues and comes to appreciate both these cultures as well as her own. She develops the ability to hold and accept multiple perspectives and appreciate them rather than judge, which is a wonderful thing to watch! She agrees with one who said that if you live in Moscow a week, you will write a book. If you live there a month, you may write an article, but if you live there for a year, you won't write anything.
Five stars