What do you think?
Rate this book
Glory in a Camel's Eye: Trekking Through the Moroccan Sahara
Jeffrey Tayler describes his journey through the Moroccan Sahara on camel and foot, describing extremely harsh conditions because of unprecedented drought, and offering a glimpse into the Arab world.
245 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2003
12 people are currently reading
132 people want to read
About the author
Jeffrey Tayler
18 books37 followersJeffrey Tayler is a U.S.-born author and journalist. He is the Russia correspondent for the Atlantic Monthly and a contributor to several other magazines as well as to NPR's All Things Considered. He has written several non-fiction books about different regions of the world which include Facing the Congo, Siberian Dawn, Glory in a Camel's Eye, and Angry Wind, the latter being a portrait of a journey through the Muslim portion of black Africa. His most recent book, River of No Reprieve, is about a challenging raft trip down Russia's Lena River.
Tayler is an accomplished linguist; in addition to his native English, he is fluent in Russian, Arabic, French, and modern Greek, and has a functioning knowledge of Spanish and Turkish.
Tayler is an accomplished linguist; in addition to his native English, he is fluent in Russian, Arabic, French, and modern Greek, and has a functioning knowledge of Spanish and Turkish.
Ratings & Reviews
Friends & Following
Create a free account to discover what your friends think of this book!
Community Reviews
Displaying 1 - 23 of 23 reviews
December 12, 2017
Glory in a Camel's Eye (also known as Valley of the Casbahs) is a beautifully written account of Tayler's arduous trek with Ruhhal Bedouin in 2001 on foot and camel through the Draa Valley in South East Morocco. A book conjuring up wonderful desert landscapes, this is a modern-day version to rival Arabian Sands which, in similar fashion to Thesiger's book, laments the lost nomadic life of the Bedouin.
While volunteering for the Peace Corps, Tayler hears of a wondrous valley in the south of Morocco called the Draa - a no mans land in the Sahara yet to be fully modernised or corrupted. Having once served as one of the main caravan routes for transporting ivory, gold and slaves between Europe and Timbuktu - the last of which crossed the Sahara in the 1950's - Tayler is constantly drawn to exploring this infrequently visited part of Morocco.
Tayler's journey begins in Tizgui travelling through Zagora and then onto the "point of no return" at Mhamid. From here he faces the Cul du Draa furnace as he treks towards Tan-Tan on the Atlantic - all told, a journey of more than 700 kilometres. When contemplating this journey, what definitely would've been useful was a map, which sadly was lacking.
Mostly, this is a book about landscapes and culture. One where Tayler writes poetically of oases, desert massfis, wadis and hamadas and knowledgeably of its sharifs, marabouts, zawiyas, qsars and jinns. We also get the benefit of Tayler's fluency in Arabic and from the numerous prior trips and time that he has spent in the Maghreb - the land of sunset.
Glory in a Camel's Eye is a good book where the teachings are much more about the places through which Tayler journeys through, rather than about himself. Magically conjuring up a desert world of infinite sand dunes, campsite fires, tasty duwaz (stews) and starlit skies only disturbed by the far off snorting of camels, this is a perfect book to enjoy over endless cups of mint tea. Full Review Here
While volunteering for the Peace Corps, Tayler hears of a wondrous valley in the south of Morocco called the Draa - a no mans land in the Sahara yet to be fully modernised or corrupted. Having once served as one of the main caravan routes for transporting ivory, gold and slaves between Europe and Timbuktu - the last of which crossed the Sahara in the 1950's - Tayler is constantly drawn to exploring this infrequently visited part of Morocco.
Tayler's journey begins in Tizgui travelling through Zagora and then onto the "point of no return" at Mhamid. From here he faces the Cul du Draa furnace as he treks towards Tan-Tan on the Atlantic - all told, a journey of more than 700 kilometres. When contemplating this journey, what definitely would've been useful was a map, which sadly was lacking.
Mostly, this is a book about landscapes and culture. One where Tayler writes poetically of oases, desert massfis, wadis and hamadas and knowledgeably of its sharifs, marabouts, zawiyas, qsars and jinns. We also get the benefit of Tayler's fluency in Arabic and from the numerous prior trips and time that he has spent in the Maghreb - the land of sunset.
Glory in a Camel's Eye is a good book where the teachings are much more about the places through which Tayler journeys through, rather than about himself. Magically conjuring up a desert world of infinite sand dunes, campsite fires, tasty duwaz (stews) and starlit skies only disturbed by the far off snorting of camels, this is a perfect book to enjoy over endless cups of mint tea. Full Review Here
October 6, 2009
From Sahara to the Sea by foot, camel and whatever comes your way. It's a totally great concept and theoretically a great story and if the author wasn't such a snarky jerk about most of the people and places he encounters it would be even better. Dude - if you don't actually like it there, don't go. One of the common and fundamental problems with travel literature, rivaled only by its inverse - the complete and total awe and reverence of all things foreign, regardless of whether the things deserve it. All that said, if you're going to Morocco, it's absolutely worth reading. See also, snarky jerk reviewers...
April 11, 2013
What is it with men who decide they want to do something epic and dangerous, then write a book to complain about it? The author complains about his companions "traditional" habits: talking about God/Islam, washing with sand/water (not soap), and then he complains because they're too western: watch too much TV, live in concrete houses (not tents). Sorry, but your noble savage doesn't exist - just because you read Thesiger's book about Arabia doesn't entitle you to find the perfect, unspoiled native. Poor, spoiled American wants to be a big, admired explorer. Oh well, you were just born too late, too bad for you. But, it was fairly well written - and other than annoying me, a good read.
December 9, 2018
I was close to chucking this book into the Goodwill pile after the few pages. Tayler introduces himself as a former Harvard student who goes off to the Peace Corps in Morocco and goes into detail his way with the Moroccan ladies and his sexual exploits with them. It is unnecessary information, only included to show us how cool and worldly he is. He then launches into how Wilfred Thesiger's book Arabian Sands inspired him to want to make a long trek through perilous desert terrain so he can become like the desert tribes and made a white man as "Other", unfit for Western "civilized" life. This smacked of pretension. Unlike Tayler, Thesiger was born as "Other" by dint of being born to British parents in Ethiopia, where he adapted to two worlds, and by moving with his parents back to England where he differed from his school mates by not having a proper British upbringing. Thesiger's voyage through Saudi Arabia's Empty Quarter took years and he had to acclimate to the Bedouins and their way of life. Tayler's journey through the Dràa in southern Morocco was planned by a guide, three months long, and had a definitive end date. The idea that this would make him like Thesiger was absurd. It also didn't help that Tayler describes the people he meets as caricatures, which seemed the antithesis of becoming "one" with them.
I continued reading mostly because I wanted to see what other arguments I could engage with him. How ridiculous could he get?
Fortunately, his view becomes more realistic. After he and his guide Nourredine, who drives him crazy as he espouses Islam day and night, experience a moment of commonality, Tayler finally sees his guide in a humane and compassionate light, realizing the challenges a poor man with a large family faces in a poor, mostly uneducated country. His caricatures cease and his descriptions become more well-rounded. Tayler also provides a detailed look into Morocco's complicated history of Berber, Jewish, and Islamic beliefs and tribes and its colonization by both France and Spain (who had the Western Sahara). He details the impact of climate change on the nomadic and herding culture and how those tribes are forced to move northward into cities and dire poverty. In his journeys he sees the effects of a lack of education and their devout religious beliefs keep them in squalor. If Allah provides and takes away, then what is the purpose of learning and using preventative measures like washing their hands with soap? (A third of infants die of diarrhea due to contamination.)
While he never says this outright, he does realize that he is "Other". The people he meets call him "Nasrani"-- white man or Christian. This chafes him as he has secular beliefs and is both chastised for being a Christian and continually persuaded to accept Islam. Compounded with the harsh terrain, extreme weather, and his sensitive bowels, he realizes the divide between them is too great. He can learn about the people of Morocco and stay with them, but he will never be one of them.
I continued reading mostly because I wanted to see what other arguments I could engage with him. How ridiculous could he get?
Fortunately, his view becomes more realistic. After he and his guide Nourredine, who drives him crazy as he espouses Islam day and night, experience a moment of commonality, Tayler finally sees his guide in a humane and compassionate light, realizing the challenges a poor man with a large family faces in a poor, mostly uneducated country. His caricatures cease and his descriptions become more well-rounded. Tayler also provides a detailed look into Morocco's complicated history of Berber, Jewish, and Islamic beliefs and tribes and its colonization by both France and Spain (who had the Western Sahara). He details the impact of climate change on the nomadic and herding culture and how those tribes are forced to move northward into cities and dire poverty. In his journeys he sees the effects of a lack of education and their devout religious beliefs keep them in squalor. If Allah provides and takes away, then what is the purpose of learning and using preventative measures like washing their hands with soap? (A third of infants die of diarrhea due to contamination.)
While he never says this outright, he does realize that he is "Other". The people he meets call him "Nasrani"-- white man or Christian. This chafes him as he has secular beliefs and is both chastised for being a Christian and continually persuaded to accept Islam. Compounded with the harsh terrain, extreme weather, and his sensitive bowels, he realizes the divide between them is too great. He can learn about the people of Morocco and stay with them, but he will never be one of them.
June 30, 2024
Glory in a Camel's Eye: A Perilous Trek Through the Greatest African Desert by Jeffrey Tayler
Trekking through Morocco's southern desert.
The author, Jeffrey Taylor, is an extremely talented writer who exquisitely paints pictures with words. His talents have made all of his memorable books classics. I am thoroughly impressed and await his next book.
When it comes to out of the ordinary outlandish adventures Jeffrey Tayler has set a standard uniquely his own.
I am thoroughly impressed after enjoying three of his high adventure escapades.
Excerpts;
During the Middle Ages Arabic became a language of science and literature and, by way of Medieval Latin, contributed to English a wealth of now common words, among them “alcohol,” “algebra,” “syrup,” and “coffee.” From the eastern realms of their empire, the Arabs brought back Hindi (“Indian,” later called “Arabic”) numerals and passed them on to Europe;
The Indian concept of zero permitted the birth of modern mathematics and science. The Arabs kept alive the ancient Greek notion that the earth was round and, through a work in Latin, delivered it to Columbus, thus aiding his discovery of the Americas.
“Come, let us show you how to pray!” Another: “Embrace Islam! If you speak Arabic you must embrace Islam!” They meant to express goodwill toward me by urging me to convert. I smiled and tried to think of a way to answer without causing offense. Noureddine came over and stood next to me. “I’m going to teach him all about Islam.” Ali said, “God will send him faith when He chooses.” “God willing!” all said. That put an end to the conversation, and we moved on. It was a tactful way to evade the question, and I would remember it.
Faith was a personal matter, and that we accepted it as such made it possible for us to become good friends.
Trekking through Morocco's southern desert.
The author, Jeffrey Taylor, is an extremely talented writer who exquisitely paints pictures with words. His talents have made all of his memorable books classics. I am thoroughly impressed and await his next book.
When it comes to out of the ordinary outlandish adventures Jeffrey Tayler has set a standard uniquely his own.
I am thoroughly impressed after enjoying three of his high adventure escapades.
Excerpts;
During the Middle Ages Arabic became a language of science and literature and, by way of Medieval Latin, contributed to English a wealth of now common words, among them “alcohol,” “algebra,” “syrup,” and “coffee.” From the eastern realms of their empire, the Arabs brought back Hindi (“Indian,” later called “Arabic”) numerals and passed them on to Europe;
The Indian concept of zero permitted the birth of modern mathematics and science. The Arabs kept alive the ancient Greek notion that the earth was round and, through a work in Latin, delivered it to Columbus, thus aiding his discovery of the Americas.
“Come, let us show you how to pray!” Another: “Embrace Islam! If you speak Arabic you must embrace Islam!” They meant to express goodwill toward me by urging me to convert. I smiled and tried to think of a way to answer without causing offense. Noureddine came over and stood next to me. “I’m going to teach him all about Islam.” Ali said, “God will send him faith when He chooses.” “God willing!” all said. That put an end to the conversation, and we moved on. It was a tactful way to evade the question, and I would remember it.
Faith was a personal matter, and that we accepted it as such made it possible for us to become good friends.
July 19, 2021
The journey he took and the story tells of the journey were to me interesting because it makes you break the fantasies about Morocco and face the reality of poverty (and lack of education stemming from it), climate change, the ruthless nature of the desert, two facades of religions, and human relationships.
I liked that this book doesn’t necessarily try to beautify anything and it tells the stories as is. At the same time, there’s nothing special about the writing style, and it often made the stories tedious.
I liked that this book doesn’t necessarily try to beautify anything and it tells the stories as is. At the same time, there’s nothing special about the writing style, and it often made the stories tedious.
January 21, 2020
Back from my #Morocco adventure and this was my travel read. This book is a great companion for anyone making the trek to the Sahara. This author #jeffreytayler decided to walk the Desert to the Atlantic ala Cheryl Strayed in Wild which is a miserable experience. I greatly enjoyed reading about Moroccan history and traditions from the back of our 4 WD Toyota Highlander and while tucked into my glamping tent with four hot water bottles @desertcampmorocco
October 6, 2010
I have read a few books by this author now, and look forward to more. This is another in the series of trips to places that no one ever goes but Jeffrey Tayler - and I for one am glad he does and writes so well about it.
This time it is a trip down the Draa Valley in Morocco with two guides, three camels, and an observant eye for details, which he shares with the reader as the journey progresses. Some hardships are obvious and somewhat expected - cantankerous camels, the desert itself, sparse supplies, monotonous food, unclen conditions. Others are a little less obvious - as the trip progresses Tayler finds that the cultural differences with his Arabic, Islamic, nomadic guides are not only too big to overcome, but increase toward the end of the trip until finally, the journey ends just in time.
A very worthwhile read and relatively quick but if you have not read Tayler before you might find the heavy use of foreign terms and words a bit off-putting -- it is something that runs throughout his books. He speaks several languages and in the first book I read I wondered if he was just showing off - but I got used to it, and the words are always used consistently and in a context where you can infer at least a general meaning. It also adds immeasurably to the overall flavor of the book -- you are constantly reminded that you are 'not in Kansas' anymore, and for some things in other countries, there just are no adequate English words.
This time it is a trip down the Draa Valley in Morocco with two guides, three camels, and an observant eye for details, which he shares with the reader as the journey progresses. Some hardships are obvious and somewhat expected - cantankerous camels, the desert itself, sparse supplies, monotonous food, unclen conditions. Others are a little less obvious - as the trip progresses Tayler finds that the cultural differences with his Arabic, Islamic, nomadic guides are not only too big to overcome, but increase toward the end of the trip until finally, the journey ends just in time.
A very worthwhile read and relatively quick but if you have not read Tayler before you might find the heavy use of foreign terms and words a bit off-putting -- it is something that runs throughout his books. He speaks several languages and in the first book I read I wondered if he was just showing off - but I got used to it, and the words are always used consistently and in a context where you can infer at least a general meaning. It also adds immeasurably to the overall flavor of the book -- you are constantly reminded that you are 'not in Kansas' anymore, and for some things in other countries, there just are no adequate English words.
March 1, 2014
As a travel writer, the neo-Victorian Tayler shares in the new fad of young professionals: "experience" as a consumer commodity. Alienated from the traditions of his own society, he attempts to buy a traditional experience from members of an exotic society colonized and degraded by the very Anglo-European imperial culture that constitutes his own ironic inheritance.
Unfortunately, his inspiration is the romantic adventurer Wilfred Thesiger rather than the more domestically-minded Freya Stark. Clueless, he seems puzzled when mothers repeatedly approach him asking for medicine for their children. Freya doctored her way across the desert; all Tayler brought was money to pay for guides on his selfish adventure.
Unfortunately, his inspiration is the romantic adventurer Wilfred Thesiger rather than the more domestically-minded Freya Stark. Clueless, he seems puzzled when mothers repeatedly approach him asking for medicine for their children. Freya doctored her way across the desert; all Tayler brought was money to pay for guides on his selfish adventure.
March 4, 2009
Probably Jeffrey Tayler doesn't come up with the silly titles for his books that emphasize the danger in his travel escapades. This is the second of his travel books that I have read and he does seem to like what might otherwise be considered ill-advised trips - but he survives to write (and publish) about it.
Tayler speaks Arabic (and Russian) and his descriptions of his interactions with his Arab guides are the most interesting aspect of this book. It took my about fifty pages to get into this but then I enjoyed it. He relates some history to provide context but this doesn't overpower things.
Tayler speaks Arabic (and Russian) and his descriptions of his interactions with his Arab guides are the most interesting aspect of this book. It took my about fifty pages to get into this but then I enjoyed it. He relates some history to provide context but this doesn't overpower things.
April 26, 2008
A very good travel memoir--a genre I usually like the idea of more than the execution of. Because as much as I enjoy stories from actual live, I get frustrated when I feel robbed of story or craft.
While sometimes I was annoyed by this narrator, I enjoyed his honesty and that he didn't hide or color his biases. It made his insights and his joys all the richer.
This part of the world is especially intriguing and foreign to me. I enjoyed the isolation of his quest as well as the frequent social interactions of a seemingly solitary journey.
While sometimes I was annoyed by this narrator, I enjoyed his honesty and that he didn't hide or color his biases. It made his insights and his joys all the richer.
This part of the world is especially intriguing and foreign to me. I enjoyed the isolation of his quest as well as the frequent social interactions of a seemingly solitary journey.
June 9, 2015
The best read yet on the harsh realities and romantic illusions of the deserts and their peoples, a trek by foot and camel from Mhamid, southeast of Marrakesh and at the head of the Draa to Tan Tan on the west coast of Morocco, the Atlantic. Fairly current too, years of drought have destroyed much of the nomadic desert tribes and true believers hector without ceasing. Tayler's command of Arabic, his observant nature and background knowledge bring wealth in his words, and glory in a camel's eye.
February 28, 2023
Tayler along with two guides takes off across the Sahara Desert. I can add this trip to the list of trips I will never take. Worst of all was the picture Tayler gives of his stop in the home of a Muslim saint; flies covering the food…children with snotty noses…the smell of animal dung coming from the room next door…green meat…men picking their noses while they ate…the intense desert heat….In every village Tayler stopped, locals told him he was the first tourist they’d met. Mmmm…big surprise.
September 10, 2008
Excellent story of traveling through Morocco's Draa Valley by mule and camel that provides thoughtful insight into the various ethnic groups in Morocco, desertification, and the Moroccan-Islamic culture. Highly recommend for anyone traveling to Morocco.
October 11, 2014
Well-described, interesting and informative. You can close your eyes and see yourself in the desert. His emotions are well-done and well-written. You can easily put yourself in his shoes and everything he goes through.
February 19, 2016
Travel and learn about a disappearing people, learn about history and local costumes with the vivid descriptions of the author and unintended humorous situations that occur when you travel on a dessert accompanied by two camels and two guides for over a month. I love Jeffrey Tayler's books.
July 14, 2016
Mildly interesting travelogue on its own, written by a former Peace Corps volunteer who returns to Morocco. I loved it for evoking parts of Morocco that I happen to know well, especially the Berber villages of the Souss-Draa.
April 3, 2008
A very interesting book about Morocco and that part of the African desert.
March 13, 2009
Arduous trek through the Moroccan desert. Provides an interesting meditataion on how the global economy has degraded the integrity of even isolated people.
August 31, 2010
It was a wonderful adventure (if you weren't actually there!).
Some passages were uncomfortable to read, but all in all very interesting and enlightening
Some passages were uncomfortable to read, but all in all very interesting and enlightening
Want to read
November 21, 2010Carol Duke. Morrocco. Another abt. congo "Facing the Congo" Sahel "Angry Wind" Siberia "River of no Reprieve" --
November 28, 2011
Fun Read, perfect for being sick, or being sick of the cold. Excellent descriptions, and happy to have traveled vicarioulsy with him. I'll be looking for some of his other books in the future.
September 9, 2016
Where the @&$¥#% is the map??
Displaying 1 - 23 of 23 reviews