The Waiting Land

by Dervla Murphy

Seasoned travel writer Dervla Murphy's portrait of Nepal and the Nepalese.

Genres: Travel, Nonfiction, Memoir, Asia, 20th Century

Paperback

First published January 1, 1968

About the author

Dervla Murphy’s first book, Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle, was published in 1965. Over twenty travel books followed including her highly acclaimed autobiography, Wheels Within Wheels.

Dervla won worldwide praise for her writing and many awards, including the Christopher Ewart-Biggs Memorial Prize, the Edward Stanford Award for Outstanding Contribution to Travel Writing and the Royal Geographical Award for the popularisation of geography.

Few of the epithets used to describe her – ‘travel legend’, ‘intrepid’ or ‘the first lady of Irish cycling’ – quite do justice to her extraordinary achievement.

She was born in 1931 and remained passionate about travel, writing, politics, Palestine, conservation, bicycling and beer until her death in 2022.

Reviews

[Daren · Rating 4 out of 5]

A few years before this book, Dervla Murphy spent time in Northern India with Tibetan refugees, which she wrote about in her book Tibetan Foothold. This time, she is in Nepal at a similar Tibetan refugee centre near Pokhara. Much is the same as the previous book, although there are differences. In her time in Nepal she learns more about the Nepalese and the Tibetans, and also get a little travel in too.

As an early book of Murphy's, she was still on deadly form. She loves a drink (some might more readily say she needs a drink, given the lack of options available, and her inevitable keenness) and she is ready to poke fun where she can with her scathing assessment.

p70

... at the moment, this consolation consists of a brew distilled in Kathmandu, sold at seven shillings per pint bottle and imaginatively described as 'pineapple wine'... Most certainly 'pineapple wine' is not wine and I doubt pineapples play any part in its production - at a guess I would say that it's pure poteen, coloured green. For even the best heads two tablespoons produce the desired effect, and it is probable that three tablespoons would result in macabre hallucinations, quickly followed by death. What it does to one's inside, when taken regularly, I hate to think - but time will tell.

p155

Now that... tourists are again coming to Nepal, and almost every day during this part week a special plane has flown from Kathmandu to spew out on our air strip a rigidly regimented group of 'Round-the-Worlders'. These groups of course comprise the bravest tourist spirits - the ones who have taken a deep breath and, against their friends advice, decided to risk two or three hours in Pokhara, bringing hygienically packed lunches with them, drinking very little at breakfast time because - 'My dear, we were warned! There simply aren't any toilets in the place!' It is unkind to laugh at such groups - but impossible not to do so...
... A few days ago one high-heeler caused me hours of tormented curiosity. Her regiment was passing my house... at once she stopped to stare... then called to her friend - 'Betty look! Do you suppose she lives there?

But her six months near Pokhara allowed he a good look there and in Kathmandu, and she writes good descriptions or people and places. After he time with the refugee camp she heads north of Kathmandu to undertake two weeks trekking, along with a guide - not that he is very familiar with the area she is headed - Gosainkund and Langtang. This is an area I am a little familiar with, having spent 20 days trekking there and the Helambu circuit in 1998. Strangely she never really reached either the fabulous mountains of Langtang or the amazing lakes of Gosainkund! This didn't stop her having a great time and experiencing the fabulous hospitality of the locals, although she was hardly in the 'trekking circuit' back then.

As a narrative it did sort of lose its way in the last quarter, with her trekking, but got back on track in her epilogue, where she describes bringing her Nepalese puppy back to Ireland (despite failing to secure a permit to do so).
p212

Nepal weaves a net out of splendour and pettiness, squalor and colour, wisdom and innocence, tranquility and gaiety, complacence and discontent, indolence and energy, generosity and cunning, freedom and bondage - and in this bewildering mesh foreign hearts and trapped, often to the own dismay.

4 stars

[Philip · Rating 5 out of 5]

** OLD REVIEW; RESHELVED AS "AVAILABLE FREE" — SEE NOTE BELOW REVIEW **
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When I moved to Singapore a few months ago, I wasn’t sure if there was a library system or not, so packed along a box of books from my "bought them and will get around to reading them someday” shelf. The Waiting Land was among them, and as I’m finally taking the family to Kathmandu this Christmas, I thought I would read this before going.

It’s a fascinating and extremely well-written story, but one can imagine my surprise when about 20 pages in, I began seeing my usual vertical pencil lines in the margins that I add to a lot of my travel books – a sure indication that I’ve read this before. But yet no single incident in the whole book rang a bell with me – even the entire final section called “On Foot To Langtang,” which recounts the very route taken during my own trek to the Tibetan border some 23 years ago (and a good 20 years since Murphy's own trek), and which I can only assume played into my original decision to purchase and read this book in the first place. On top of which, my pencil notations rarely highlight anything of particular wisdom or humor, so I can only conclude that I must have read this book during my pre-trek week in Kathmandu over endless cups of milk tea and “special brownies” that left my abilities for future recollection well-impaired.

As to the book itself, it is a minor classic of mid-20th century travel writing, focusing on several months spend working with Tibetan refugees in Nepal’s Pokhara valley, (as well as lengthy sections on Kathmandu itself and the aforementioned trek to Langtang). Murphy is a force of nature who writes with winning and self-deprecating humor – for fans of News from Tartary, picture Ella Maillart’s hardiness and unflappability combined with Peter Fleming’s sense of humor. Unfortunately, while she was a prolific writer and traveler, I am a travel reader of fairly limited range – basically Central Asia east to Japan and southeast through Indonesia – and so I probably won’t read any of her other (and most probably also excellent) books, which focus on Africa, India, South America and her own Ireland.

It’s worth adding a few quotes that I particularly enjoyed, to illustrate her style and wit, which flow so naturally compared to the more forced attempts of so many similar writers, such as Pico Iyer in his much more famous Video Nights in Kathmandu (which I also recently read/reviewed):

“About a mile from the gompa I saw my first snow leopard trap – a crude contrivance of wooden stakes built around a deep pit and looking as though it would delude none but the most seriously retarded leopard.”

“This development prompted Kay to make her excuses and retire with dignity. A couple of hours later I also retired, without dignity, but feeling very happy indeed after four or five pints of what James Morris has so aptly called 'that unique species of alcoholic porridge'.”
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NOTE: A copy of this book is available free to any Goodreads friend who is willing to pay for shipping, (or pick up in person, if living in the Northern Virginia/WDC area). If interested and you have my email, just send a note with the word "Goodreads" somewhere in the text or subject, so I can find in a search. If you DON'T have my email, add a comment on this review with YOUR email, and I'll get back to you to set something up. Happy reading!

You can see other books on my "available free to friends" bookshelf (still under construction); meanwhile, here are a few blurry photos with some of the other available titles:

[Katelyn · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book about Nepal is such a special one for me, as I knew most of the places she visited in 1965. 1965! At that time, Nepal had only been open to foreigners for a decade or two. There was one main road in the entire country and that was a feat of engineering! Murphy knew at the time that Nepal would possibly never have a serious network of roads because of the mountains and it's so true! The roads are insane and crumbling with landslides today, it's impossible to make permanent, tarred roads, though they are trying.

Murphy has a lot of strong assertions but I can always see where she is coming from when she is talking about her opinions of Nepalese people. She writes in a very detailed way about her 8 months in Pokhara and Katmandu, as well as a trek in the Langtang area - all three places I am very, very familiar with! It's incredible to hear how things were at the time, how different it was and yet how many similarities there still are. My favorite part by FAR was her trekking in Langtang area because her joy at trekking is so fun to read about, and she traveled so extremely rough, and she loved it. The whole book is worth it just for the last thick chapter. But I wouldn't suggest it for any of my family members because I'm not sure how well it would sound to someone who has never been to Nepal. It's really detailed about her daily life in a foreign country and it helped me a lot to already have background knowledge about the Nepalese and Indian cultures, languages, and religions. I'm curious to try another of her books.......

[Wendy Jackson · Rating 3 out of 5]

This was my first foray into Dervla Murphy travel books, and it was enjoyable. Her fortitude to live pretty much like a local in rural Nepal in 1965 is impressive. What struck me were things like how unfazed she was by doing things like sleeping in cowsheds (with cows and other livestock), and how she would go walking alone, often getting lost along mountain tracks. These stories are not told in a boastful, onedownsmanship way; I would venture this was her natural way of being. I liked the diary format of the book (and knowing she posted her papers to Ireland while in Nepal); she is an extremely keen observer of humanity. I am curious to read other books from her - especially later ones - to see how her voice and observations have evolved over the years.

[Subin · Rating 4 out of 5]

What Murphy wrote about Nepal some 50 years ago is still relevant : ".. But no one merely 'likes Nepal; Nepal weaves a net out of splendor and pettiness, squalor and color,wisdom and innocence, tranquility and gaiety, complacence and discontent, indolence and energy, generosity and cunning, freedom and bondage -- and in this bewildering mesh foreign hearts are trapped, often to their won dismay." The book is enumeration of these contradictions she saw in her journey and she has been very frank in expressing her feeling.

[Sairam Krishnan · Rating 4 out of 5]

My first Dervla Murphy, who I've been meaning to read for some time, and I enjoyed it immensely. Extraordinarily brilliant travel writing, with a delightful eye for detail that brings to life Nepal in the mid-1960s. Definitely reading more of her books. Very highly recommended.

[Fiona Hurley · Rating 1 out of 5]

I love Dervla Murphy, but this is my least favourite of her books. At the time of reading, I felt there was something lacking. Where was that irascible traveller with her unmistakable voice? This could have been written by a different author.

Later, I found an explanation from Murphy herself:

I had gone there to work in a Tibetan refugee camp as a volunteer sponsored by an international agency. Before leaving London I had had to sign a statement promising not to use information gained in the course of my work as raw material for writing or broadcasting... Gradually, I found out certain things that, if used as raw material for writing or broadcasting, would have caused a minor but noisome international scandal... I had been chosen for the Nepal job by a man of flawless integrity who would suffer the consequences should I produce the best-seller that was tucked away in my Nepal journal. So, instead, I produced The Waiting Land, a light-hearted account of an experience that had not been light-hearted.

In retrospect, I believe I made the wrong decision. I am not proud of having been a timid accessory to embezzlement.... Twenty years ago, misplaced loyalty muzzled me. It wouldn’t now. Some organisations, agencies and institutions deserve not loyalty but exposure.

Full article at Dervla Murphy's site (Scroll down to "SECOND THOUGHTS")

So, unless you feel the need to read all Murphy's work, you could skip this one. Her other books have a lot more to offer ( if you haven't read them yet, try Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle , Where the Indus Is Young: Walking to Baltistan , or The Ukimwi Road ).

[Daniela · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have nothing but love for all of Dervla Murphy’s books and this one confirms my connection to this author. I found the last hike particularly inspiring and the epilogue reflection about the role of refugee aid quite meaningful, especially in our age. She’s one of the few authors that I can say has changed and influenced my own life. And of course she’s an infinite source of escapism and joy which is in itself a wonderful gift.

[Reena · Rating 3 out of 5]

After thoroughly enjoying Murphy’s Where the Indus is Young, I thought I’d hop straight into another of her travelogues. The Waiting Land has me split in the middle, as it focuses more on the human geography, rather than the physical, which is what enchanted me o much with her trip to Baltistan. However, there are some beautiful glimpses of Nepal’s wilderness. Most of all, this book is missing Rachel’s humour!

[Steve Chilton · Rating 3 out of 5]

Have read several of Dervla Murphy’s books and this is a good one. She loves being in the mountains and going local in the mountain communities. She describes the pleasure and uncertainties of life in Nepal with equal clarity and passion. This is one of her earlier works, and was first published in 1967, so illustrates the Nepal of that time.

[Carolyn · Rating 5 out of 5]

Wonderful travel diary by an Irish woman who moved to Nepal in the 70s to help Tibetan refugees. She seems to have a knack for adventure, a love of nature, and a talent for understated humour:

"Sept 18. Today I distinquished myself by getting lost for eight hours."

[Annapurna Mellor · Rating 4 out of 5]

A wonderful account of Dervla Murphey's experience in Nepal in 1965 - working in a Tibetan Refugee Camp in Pokhara, trekking through the remote Langtang region, and experiencing life in Patan. Really recommend it you have also travelled to Nepal or are intrigued by the country.

[jcgoodreads · Rating 5 out of 5]

hardcore woman - way before her time..

[Gabrielle]

Funny, witty, and brutally honest. I really enjoy Dervla's style. She tells a story without having to sugarcoat things, and creates a feeling of Wanderlust. A true adventurer.

[rita neves · Rating 3 out of 5]

I knew of Dervla Murphy from her Guardian Obituary that was on the pin board of our Geriatric Medicine Department of the Hospital in Waterford. I was mesmerised that she had left Ireland in the early sixties to go by herself on her trusty bike Roz, short for Rozinante - Dom Quixote's horse. She went on with a compass and armed with a .25 pistol the County Waterford gardai gave her basic instructions on how to use it.
Then one of my best friends got engaged to be married in Nepal where she is from and now was the time to prepare and read ahead, we met to roam Daunt books in London and there this book stood on the Nepal shelf.
I started just before departing in early February but only finished it now. It took me a while to get into it although I was impressed with Dervla's high tolerance for hardship and her persistent good humour in the face of adversity. Dervla writes this book on her travels to Nepal whose ultimate goal was to reach Pokhara to work in the Tibetan refugee camp. In the face of our modern times and refugee crisis, things seem to be the same regarding these conflicts and the support for migrants, which has saddened me. However, Nepal is a very special country surrounded by the Himalayas in the north and very mountainous. I always describe my two weeks there as "an experience" because the cultural shock was immense to me being my first time in Asia. It gave me some solace that it wasn't just me.
The book is a tad slow in the beginning but it was amazing to see how things changed or didn't from 1965 to now. To me, reading this was special because I had just seen the places, but of course on the top of the privilege of being a tourist
Reading Dervla's adventures and her trials in an extremely underdeveloped Nepal was a great reminder to when I was being dramatic towards what I found were my own hardships. She is an absolute heroine of real life and a newfound role model to me.
If you are reading this book remember it was written in 1965 and Dervla can be blunt in some things, and has no problem saying that these people are filthy or not. Dervla is unapologetic, and should be as this book it's a diary-based type of book of her own opinions.
Anyway, Dervla is extremely funny. She is a natural storyteller and such a good at that, she has that Irish natural talent to grip you and tell you of her stories.
The downside to me is that a lot of the time I had to force myself to read the book, it wasn't gripping enough. She is a great writer, the way she describes what she sees you feel like you are there without feeling too overdone on the lyricism of the description.
I liked the book but got bored at times and felt I had to push through at times. However, definitely want to read Full Tilt and Wheels within Wheels after this one.

[JournalsTLY]

The writer swims in a lake in Nepal, finds that the water was not that refreshing. She uses carbolic soap - this itself tells of the setting and the era - to remove the sweat and dust; later to discover that villagers use the edge of the same lake as their latrine.

Written as a journal - her journey (in 1960s) to and her stay in Nepal to volunteer at a refugee camp for Tibetans coming out of communist China. The scenes are chaotic as are the postal system, the livestock that wander onto the runway as the airport and her own getting lost in the valleys.

A storm rips into the Tibetan camp and paths are turned into rivers of mud , the water deluge damaging the clothing, tents and the precious cardboard cartons ( just the cardboard boxes) of US milk powder.

The entry for 25 June - Animal Spirits - has a very detailed account of healing by exorcism and casting out of the spirits has details of a keen and engaged eye witness.

This journal and hiking -travelogue is where the Tibetan, Nepali , Irish worlds meet; and when occasional China communism, big brother India, pro/anti American fads - but it is the details of bugs, leeches, rabid dogs, dysentery, wife beating (severe) and reconciliation (or surrender) all weaved in to keep the 488 page book going, telling us of another very different community. The photos at the end of the book are quaint.

[Cbx · Rating 3 out of 5]

A trip to another place and time, in the company of an author who prefers it when things are tough. The equanimity with which bedbugs, cockroaches, rats, extreme poverty, malnutrition, and gastrointestinal distress are handled is impressive. Reading about all this is balanced out by the people, events, and landscapes, as well as the author's own experience of all that is encountered.
There are some odd notes here though, from characterizations of the personalities of different nationalities to the rather nebulous developmental-helper-type work done by the author. There are also passages about what richer countries should and should not be doing to help refugees, which seem targeted toward those in the field. There is a sense of things being glossed over, and of this only being a brief excursion with somewhat unclear goals. The author is good company though, and the journey is an interesting one into the past of a country just beginning to be visited by tourists.

[Saumya Chauhan · Rating 4 out of 5]

My first piece of travel lit since Ruskin Bond's Roads To Mussoorie back in 2019. I am definitely biased in my review therefore.


One of those books that feels overly nostalgic, almost like home. Maybe it was because of the old, yellow pages or maybe because the wholesome Tibetans and Tashi, the author is able to provide a perfect, all enticing description of a land geographically so close to me yet spiritually so distant, the same today as it was in the 1960s. I want to go to the Himalayas now.

[Dean]

"Nepal weaves a net out of splendour and pettiness, squalor and colour, wisdom and innocence, tranquility and gaiety, complacence and discontent, indolence and energy, generosity and cunning, freedom and bondage, and in this bewildering mesh, foreign hearts are trapped - often to their own dismay."

I love reading travel writing by women and it was fascinating reading this account of an Irish woman travelling Nepal in the 70s. Escapist, profound and beautiful.

[Irina Mi · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve recently become fascinated by Nepal and started searching for books about it.
That’s how I came across this book by Dervla Murphy — an experienced traveler and, quite simply, a remarkable woman with an exceptional personality.

Her writing style completely captured me: witty and sarcastic at times, yet always respectful toward the places and cultures she describes.
In Nepal, Murphy devoted more than half a year to caring for Tibetan refugees.

Life in Nepal is far from comfortable, yet she lived as a local, sharing the hardships and routines of everyday existence alongside her Tibetan friends. She never sugarcoats reality, nor does she criticize it; instead, she paints an honest picture of what daily life is like for ordinary people.

I especially enjoyed her trekking diaries in the final chapters. Her admiration for Nepal’s landscapes shines through, and she repeatedly emphasizes how breathtaking and unique they are.

This is without doubt one of the best travel books I’ve ever read — largely thanks to Murphy’s distinctive voice: authentic, sharp, and deeply humane.
A wholehearted recommendation🧡

[Jenny Douglas · Rating 4 out of 5]

Another great tale of life in different lands from Dervla Murphy. A unique look at life and the issue ofTibetan refugees in Nepal in the 1960s.

[Carmen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Dervla bikes and treks in Nepal, living among the villagers, helping out, learning the culture. As expected, she describes the good and the bad.

[Cory · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a great writer. Will definitely seek out her other books. And she brought Tashi home! :-)

[Steven Davis · Rating 3 out of 5]

An interesting read, of a Nepal from long before I visited it multiple times, and to a much greater depth.

[Truus · Rating 3 out of 5]

beschrijvend boekje over het leven in Nepal anno 1970
hits different wanneer je dit leest in Nepal, 50 jaar na datum en de ervaring gewoon exact dezelfde is