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South from the Limpopo: Travels through South Africa

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South from the Limpopo Travels Through South Africa

Hardcover

First published January 1, 1997

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313 people want to read

About the author

Dervla Murphy

52 books281 followers
Dervla Murphy’s first book, Full Tilt: Ireland to India with a Bicycle, was published in 1965. Over twenty travel books followed including her highly acclaimed autobiography, Wheels Within Wheels.

Dervla won worldwide praise for her writing and many awards, including the Christopher Ewart-Biggs Memorial Prize, the Edward Stanford Award for Outstanding Contribution to Travel Writing and the Royal Geographical Award for the popularisation of geography.

Few of the epithets used to describe her – ‘travel legend’, ‘intrepid’ or ‘the first lady of Irish cycling’ – quite do justice to her extraordinary achievement.

She was born in 1931 and remained passionate about travel, writing, politics, Palestine, conservation, bicycling and beer until her death in 2022.

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5 stars
48 (23%)
4 stars
86 (42%)
3 stars
49 (24%)
2 stars
11 (5%)
1 star
8 (3%)
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews
Profile Image for Emma .
178 reviews35 followers
May 17, 2016
Always liked this writer, untill she travelled the area that I personally know. Her style, her range and details were still impressive, but some of her quick judgements based on truly wrong facts, started me doubting, whether I could trust her as a travel writer. Her division of good and bad runs very close to the line Black and White. A rather cliched approach and politics based (I suspect) on politically correct opinion books and popular articles. I can cope with that, I suspect that a lot of travel writers have do that. In a limited time one can only experience that much at first hand and personally. And in this case I myself can correct the faulty contents in my head. I am not talking about her opinion, I am refering to factual content. The way she thinks about South Africans, black white or purple is her full right.

But the big problem with this book is that I now have to distrust the contents of her other books, which I mostly enjoyed. Were they based on correct facts? In a way I am truly sorry I read this book. It spoiled the others.
Profile Image for Tuck.
2,264 reviews253 followers
February 22, 2011
unbelievably bad ass old granny who rides her bike from limpopo river up in the northeast corner of SA and down and around all over to capetown in the southwest. the audacity of that alone is pretty cool, but then of course in south africa you don't only have to deal with weird ass bugs, awe inspiring landscapes, and electric fences, but also the people, which will pretty much blow anybody's mind. 14 official languages, huge, tragic geography of race, huge tragic poverty, huge tragic wealth.
and this lady pretty much rides her bike unassisted through it all. she's one bad hombre irish lady. and a good writer.
Profile Image for Diane.
1,219 reviews
June 6, 2015

I really enjoy Delva Murphy’s approach to travel writing – she rides a bicycle, drinks beer with the locals, talks with all sorts of people, and is very tolerant of different opinions and approaches to life. This book is about her travels around South Africa at the very end of apartheid in 1993. She returns for the elections and returns again to see what has happened a few months after the election of Mandela in 1994.

I nearly stopped reading after 72 pages – so many acronyms and an entire social-political system I knew so little about that I could almost not follow the text. But, then the real Delva showed up. After she begins talking with people and telling their stories, I really enjoyed the book and felt I learned quite a bit about the history and the life of many different people in South Africa. I enjoyed her stay in the black “slum” of Khayelitsha. I also was impressed that she genuinely liked many of the Afrikaners she met, even though she differed greatly from them in her political views. And, of course, her bicycle adventures and her great appreciation of nature are always of interest. I liked learning just a little bit about her personal life when she visits her daughter lives in Mozambique. I was also a bit shocked when she admitted to not knowing how to change her own bike tires or I suppose tyres since she is Irish.

An unexpected treat was a bit of history about Redvers Buller during the Boer War. My father always told me that my Uncle George was going to be named Redvers Buller because he was born on the day Buller led the relief at Ladysmith (February 28, 1900). I think my grandmother insisted on George instead. I need David McCullough to write a book about the Boer War(s).

I think the book is a good place to start learning about South Africa today. I am not sure what my next book should be in that area.
38 reviews1 follower
April 30, 2022
Tricky book to review. There is some good descriptive writing of the diverse South African (“RSA”) landscape from the perspective of a cycling travel Irish writer. For this I have accorded 1 star. However, having been born and raised in RSA and having lived there during the period written about, I find the judgmental tone (seemingly based along colour lines) from a foreigner, at that, distasteful and annoying. In some instances she dwells on facts and historical events that support her moral and political bias, yet fails to mention opposing well-known historical events that contradict her experience and viewpoint.

It is one thing to hold certain views and political judgments, but as a foreigner spending a few weeks in a complex country writing a so-called travelogue, at least present geographical,socio-economic and political facts neutrally leaving the reader to make their own judgments. Her clearly biased view saddens me as the country is a rich tapestry of so many threads, each thread carrying equal weight. So a no from me. Just no.
Profile Image for Jean Grant.
Author 11 books21 followers
December 16, 2011
I liked the book but it wasn't as evocative as her book on Ethiopia. I found the diary entries a bit ho-hum occasionally. Still I learned a lot. I wish she'd cut it by ten percent and it would have been brilliant.
Profile Image for Sarah.
85 reviews1 follower
September 22, 2015
A large portion of all of Murphy's travel books deal with the physical nitty-gritty details of travel itself, parts of her books show an insight into people's struggles that is not always seen in travel books.
Profile Image for Fiona Hurley.
335 reviews63 followers
November 2, 2023
Another adventurous travelogue by the irrepressible Dervla Murphy. This journey takes place after The Ukimwi Road: From Kenya to Zimbabwe, and provides a snapshot of South Africa immediately before and after the first post-apartheid elections in 1994. There's more history and politics than usual, perhaps unavoidable given the circumstances. I was glad of the glossary at the end of the book, which explains the many terms and acronyms. As usual, the best parts are Murphy's conversations with the diverse people she meets, from black activists to Afrikaner farmers, always with her trademark tolerance and humour.
Author 1 book3 followers
March 15, 2023
Fascinating to find a book that offers a view of South Africa (where I was born) that I never could and never will have. Dervla Murphy travelled around South Africa on a bicycle meeting people of all races and persuasions in the period surrounding the first free elections of 1994.
Her point of view is relentlessly engaged and partisan, as a supporter of the ANC with high hopes for the New South Africa, although she is astute enough to detect the temptations to which the new political elite are exposed. It seems a pity she is no longer around to provide an update as the thirtieth anniversary of the new constitution approaches.
Profile Image for Sue.
1,341 reviews
September 14, 2021
From March to August 1993 and then from September 1994 to January 1995 Dervla made two bike trips through South Africa commenting on the land and the people she met. The first trip was prior to Mandela's win and the second was following it. So this is a commentary on two different South Africa's.
Parts of this I enjoyed (much of the travel and people). But there were large sections that got bogged down in political commentary. I'm not one who can skim - I read every word. I think there are parts of the 414 pages that could have been edited down. 2 1/2 stars.
23 reviews
January 31, 2025
I'm a huge fan of Dervla Murphy. Her bravery, determination and intellect combine to make her a fascinating travelling companion and witness to any culture. This book on South Africa at a time of unprecedented turmoil, change and indeed danger gives a unique insight into the perspectives and concerns of all races, although Dervla's sympathies clearly lie with the black majority. As always, it's presented as a diary, allowing the reader to accompany Dervla on her journey and to see the country through her eyes.
Profile Image for Paola.
42 reviews19 followers
January 9, 2023
I can't get enough of Dervla Murphy. I admire her courage in travelling by bike through places often dangerous (in this case, South Africa), her never-failing interest in people, her genuine quest for the "soul" of the place she visited, her desire to form her own views, and see things from different perspectives by talking to whoever wanted to engage.
I don't mind her talking about politics, that's partly why I like her books, and I always learn a lot from her travels and her observations. Yes, sometimes she could be opinionated and slightly judgemental, and throughout her life, she held strong views on many subjects and was never afraid to vent them whenever the occasion arose (and, in many instances, I think she had a point).
I enjoyed this book, but if she'd cut a quarter of it, it would have been brilliant.
Profile Image for Rogue Reader.
2,354 reviews7 followers
March 3, 2019
This is a remarkable work and one that should be widely read for its on the ground observations of the transition from deKlerk to Mandela. Murphy's determined, but foolish really in her quest to bike the southern African countries in the year before, during and after the end of legal apartheid. Inquisitive, fit, incredible.
30 reviews21 followers
August 16, 2021
The first half of this book was incredible. It is the first day-by-day account of the time leading up to the 94 election - albeit written by a foreign travel writer. I felt like I was gaining a unique perspective into the fragile transition that my country undertook. The second half of the book however was a lot more mundane and difficult to get through.
Profile Image for Romano Cassar.
15 reviews
January 26, 2021
I read this book before, during and after a three-week road trip through South Africa in 2018. I enjoyed her style of travelling and travel-writing. She seems a human being who empathises with people everywhere, and especially with the downtrodden (please pardon the over-used word).
Profile Image for Josette Garcia.
140 reviews2 followers
September 9, 2020
Hope and despair! Hope that the end of apartheid will improve the status of the black people but despair the inequality is still prominent 30 years later. I admire the guts and strength of the author - I surely would never found the courage to cycle in South Africa then or now.
Profile Image for Jo.
222 reviews
September 5, 2011
This one took me forever to read. I was about to give up at the 100 page mark, but it engaged me in a few tidbits that kept me going. I picked it up at the library when looking for travel guides to South Africa for our impending (at the time) trip.
It is a memoir of an Irish 'Granny' who bicycles through South Africa in three separate trips. First pre-election March - August 1993. Second, during election April 1994. Third, post election September - December 1994. Needless to say, each time was during significant social and political activity throughout the country as well as significant unrest and violence. (Although maybe NOT as much tension as in the thick of the anti-apartheid movement)
She spent time with all types of people and spoke with them about how they were feeling and what they believed about their country in its current state. She was able to cross the great divide and spend time with black and coloured people as a white woman. (She defined at the beginning of the book that she used the term 'blacks' to refer to native Africans and 'coloured' to refer to those of mixed race. A significant difference at the time... and maybe still.) Because of this effort to engage everyone who was willing, it seemed that she was able to get to the heart of what real people believed and how they lived. Obviously, not all of them, but it included the good, the bad and the ugly. This information is what kept me going. Currently, I can't imagine a scenario where I would be able to gather that information directly. Like Isabella Bird, she made this trek alone. In the process, she is warned a million and one times not to go where she was going due to the risk of violence. I'm not sure if that can be called bravery, but it is something.
There were two segments of the book of particular significance to me. First was a chapter where she spent an escorted week in one of the informal settlements outside of Cape Town. Again, I'd love to experience that, but I can't imagine how it would come about that I would be able to. (I think it would be in line with the principle that from afar we could never accurately judge how us privileged people can truly help those that are living in extreme poverty in a useful way and how they want to be helped.) Second, was a description of her visit to the Voertrekker Monument in Pretoria. (We had talked about going to it, but didn't. Now I'm glad.)
Bottom line, I'm glad I stuck it out, because, again, it gave me insight I'm not likely to gain any other way. I wonder how much has changed in the last 7 years since she has been there. It doesn't seem like much. I will continue to seek more info because my thoughts are now frequently engaged in contemplating what would help this young country keep moving forward, especially since I'm personally connected to it now. As I've been saying since I returned, apartheid may not be law anymore... but there is certainly still significant segregation and limited opportunities.
The reason I found the book difficult to get through was that it needed some further editing. There was much ado about stuff of little significance, so if you are going to pick it up... be prepared to be dedicated to the topic.
Profile Image for Joe.
278 reviews8 followers
May 12, 2015
"Often my experiences here have been emotionally grueling - some verging on the traumatic...", Dervla Murphy states as she closes out her novel. I think most reader's will feel close to the same after experiencing her 400-page journey through South Africa before, during, and after Apartheid has been struck down during the early 1990's.

I went into this book expecting a travel book, but in reality it's a story about a country divided, coming together amidst massive political changes. By the end, I was somewhat exhausted trying to keep track of all the different cultures, political factions, tribes, ideologies, racism, violence, and vocabulary to describe all of it. The situation there at that time seems hopeless and many times I felt as if South Africa is succumbing to anarchy. It's apparent from this book that despite a positive change in political climate for a country, not all is right or functioning well. Placed next to any other country on the planet, this book is a mirror of the struggle for people's independence against a greedy, oppressive political landscape. While there's hope conveyed, overall, I found this book to be quite depressing.

I will say this - Dervla Murphy has some major "cajones", as I can not imagine myself traveling by bicycle through that region, let alone an elderly woman by herself.
Profile Image for Amerynth.
831 reviews26 followers
July 27, 2012
I absolutely loved Murphy's "Full Tilt" about her ride to India on a bicycle, so I really looked forward to reading "South from the Limpopo" about her bicycle trips in South Africa. However, I found this book really paled in comparison to "Full Tilt." She visits South Africa several times as Apartheid ends and Mandela is elected president. The focus on politics made the book extremely repetitive as she talks politics with most everyone she meets and generally encounters the same opinions amongst members of the same racial groups. There is a bit of alphabet soup as she refers to political parties and assumes you have more knowledge about South African politics than I do. I think this would be a great book for someone who has studied South African politics, but for someone with more superficial knowledge, this book drags.
Profile Image for Roger.
30 reviews
March 18, 2010
Dervla Murphy cycles several thousand miles around South Africa on the cusp of the vote that made Mandela president. She's an engaging character, writes well, and has an interestingly balanced take on the end of the apartheid era.
20 reviews1 follower
November 30, 2007
A little slower to read...same continent...you have to keep remembering that this is a 50-something year old woman riding her bike through these countries..
Profile Image for Rebecca.
158 reviews11 followers
June 10, 2010
this woman is totally crazy but a very interesting book...
Profile Image for Dovofthegalilee.
204 reviews
Read
July 28, 2011
Informative but dated it is another attempt by Murphy to capture a segment of time. It was too long for me but I did finish it.
Profile Image for Matt.
358 reviews14 followers
December 16, 2011
Very long read... but I stuck with it and I feel it did offer some good insights... I later recommended it to my sister before she traveled to South Africa.
Profile Image for Marcus.
140 reviews4 followers
September 8, 2012
An extraordinary story of Dervla's ride through South Africa. Insightful and descriptive of the land and it's people.
Displaying 1 - 24 of 24 reviews

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