The Shadow of Kilimanjaro

by Rick Ridgeway

In one of the most acclaimed travel and adventure books of the past year, Rick Ridgeway chronicles his trek from the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean, through Kenya's famed Tsavo Park. His tale is, according to The Boston Globe , "a gripping account of how it feels to be charged by an incensed elephant and kept awake at night by the roaring of stalking lions." But it is more than an adventure story. The Los Angeles Times noted that "the pace of walking gives Ridgeway time to contemplate his great theme and the great men and women who have struggled with the conundrum of whether man can live at peace with the beasts." Ridgeway examines the effects of colonial expansion on the indigenous people, the landscape, and the animals, and contemplates the future for all of them.

Genres: Africa, Travel, Nonfiction, Adventure, Kenya, History, Ecology

288 pages, Paperback

First published October 1, 1998

Reviews

[AfricaAdventureConsultants · Rating 4 out of 5]

Rick Ridgeway’s ‘The Shadow of Kilimanjaro’ isn’t just a journey through Kenya, it’s a journey through time. The book begins with Rick and his traveling companions climbing Mount Kilimanjaro. It is the beginning of a walking safari that will take them all the way to the Kenyan coast. He is accompanied by seasoned guides and trackers as well as rangers from the Kenya Wildlife Service.

Filled with the incredible adventures of meeting and observing animals while on foot, as well as descriptions of the stark beauty of Kenya’s magical parks, the Shadow of Kilimanjaro is a riveting read. Ridgeway deftly augments the stories of his adventure with stories of Kenya’s cast of memorable characters; the Sheldricks, Tsavo warden Bill Woodley, KWS founder Richard Leakey (yes – of those Leakeys!), and more. He tackles the oft-times controversial history of game management and poaching in Kenya, as well as the philosophical side of big game hunting.

The Shadow of Kilimanjaro is an armchair adventure that you won’t want to put down. It’s a must read for anyone planning a visit to Kenya and for those with a passion for Africa’s flora and fauna.

[Jennifer Goldby · Rating 2 out of 5]

To be honest, I was quite disappointed by this book. I think the title is misleading, it evokes images of an epic journey fraught with danger and excitement. I had imagined the author going back to basics, surviving in the wild with only the simplest necessities of life and battling the elements, facing the conundrums that exist for the Masai, Waliangulu and other tribal groups. Instead the group are met with professionals and cooks and a whole team of people at frequent stops along the way who set up camp for them and organize everything and it seemed cushy. The author rabbits on about the history of hunting, game and legislation. So if you're planning to go into the authoritarian colonial safari business then this book highlights some of the tricks of the trade, but otherwise its just a bit boring I'm afraid.

[Sara · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love a good adventure book and picked this one up thinking it would be just that. Instead, it was so much more. Ridgeway barely talks about his walking journey from the summit of Kilimanjaro to the Kenyan coast. Instead he uses the journey to tell a much larger story.

This book is really about the history of hunting and poaching, the ivory trade and conservation in Kenya. It is about the interesting people who stood up to corruption and greed to protect wild lands and wild animals in Kenya.

I suppose part of the reason that I loved this book so much is because of my interest in conservation and anthropology and the challenges that traditional lifestyles face in a world of modern politics. Having spent 3 months in Kenya on a field study program focusing on Anthropology and Conservation also affected the way that I interpreted this book and helped me to enjoy it. I wish I would have read this book while I was there!

[Judy Decaigny · Rating 3 out of 5]

This one was hard to rate. The topics discussed are extremely important. But I did get bored at times & I wasn’t that interested in some of the side stories. But definitely interesting.

[Mila · Rating 2 out of 5]

The title of this book is misleading because it's not so much a tale about travelling on foot (safari) as it is Ridgeway expounding on the slaughter of elephants.

[Brian Griffith · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ridgeway shows us the drama and courage involved in preserving and defending East Africa's wildlife. It's an inspiring story of modern African heroes, some of them politicians, some game park officials, and some local villagers. It's written in a gripping, unforgettable way.

[Arlie Anderson · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book and chose to read it slowly so that I could savour Ridgeway’s experiences as he trekked up and over Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, and across bush, and plains of Kenya to the Indian Ocean. Along the way his expressive description of the landscape, flora and fauna offers an insight into its beauty and in some places, wildness. Along the way, Ridgeway embellishes the account of his travels with insights into the history of the Tsavo, of notable past wardens such as Bill Woodley and David Sheldrick; but most of all, he ponders the best way to protect the mega fauna of East Africa without negatively impacting the people who have lived in that land for centuries past.

[Meredith · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a compelling analysis of the complex interactions between man and "megafauna" - in particular, elephants - in the region of Kenya that became - and still is - Tsavo National Wildlife Refuge. The frame upon which this is suspended is a trek from the top of Mt Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean, in the company on several knowledgable individuals, two of whom are the sons of one of the original wardens of Tsavo. Much to think about in this excellent book, for both the "bunny-huggers" among us, and those of a less sentimental bent.

[Andi · Rating 4 out of 5]

The descriptions of the landscape, flora and fauna of East Africa as they traverse it on foot are wonderful, as is the interplay between the park rangers and the history of animal and land management. But the fascination for me lies in the seemingly contradictory positions of conservationist and hunter and how one person can justify taking both positions. The indigenous peoples living subsistence lifestyles could understand and behaved accordingly, but colonialists and succeeding generations have a different, more capitalist, mindset. I fear for our future...and at the same time, hope I am wrong.

[Zac West · Rating 4 out of 5]

“They were hunters,” he had answered. “They were the masters of the bush. They were living off the land, and they were fitting in naturally. So, you see, to be honest, they were living the lives we ourselves would have liked to live.”

Highly recommend this book to anyone visiting or considering a visit to East Africa. I read it in prep for returning to Tanzania to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro. It will give you a true appreciation for the experience ahead.

[Sparrow Knight · Rating 3 out of 5]

Besides chronicling his hike, with fascinating notes of the flora and fauna he was walking through, this books is a long rumination about man’s relationship with animals, largely focused on hunting them. And I want to emphasize, very much man’s. Towards the end of the book, he asks…

“Can you go into the bush and achieve that sense of being an active part of the warp and weft of the natural fabric without going in as a hunter?”

His focus on hunting and hunting culture has completely overlooked women’s roles in indigenous cultures. Ancient cultures are termed hunting and GATHERING for a reason. The largely women’s role in gathering foodstuffs, herbs, wood, and other building materials is integral to the ‘warp and weft’ of lives lived close to the earth.

So while the book is an interesting rumination on hunting, and the establishment of the National Park system in Kenya, it’s definitely from a male perspective.

[Sarah · Rating 2 out of 5]

This was an interesting read. In addition to a story of a walk on foot from Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean, it is also an exploration of issues surrounding conservation and hunting in East Africa. In some ways, it's a very interesting read, and we get to meet many larger-than-life personalities who have been involved in the history of conservation and the national parks in Kenya, like Richard Leakey and Bill Woodley. I also appreciated Ridgeway's attempts to make sense of the fact that many involved with the parks and in the preservation of big-game animals were also avid hunters.

There is also a colonialist/imperialist element of the book that is a little disturbing, however. Besides the author, most of the people on the walk are white Kenyans, except for the two armed guards. Most of the heroes of the conservation movement are white, and while the author seems to admire the traditional hunting tribes which used to live within Tsavo Park, his descriptions seemed to veer perilously close to "noble savage" territory on more than one occasion. I appreciated Ridgeway's discussions of the problems facing some of the traditional hunting tribes of Kenya, as well as his discussion of how land conservation has affected those who have traditionally lived on lands now being conserved, but he also seems to get overly sentimental about how both the traditional hunters and the old big-game safarists were the ones who lived most close to the land.

[Bob · Rating 5 out of 5]

Although it starts a bit slowly as the author prepares to ascend Kilimanjaro on his trek to the Indian Ocean, the book is a marvelous memoir of East Africa's wild places. With 19th and 20th century history as the background, the author details the interaction of humans and animals, particularly as the conservation movement began to conflict with both native hunting and foreigner "big game" hunting, focused ultimately on the elephants and ivory trade. Ridgeway introduces the key European and native personalities, and in addition to capturing the incredible feel of walking through the African wilds (which we experienced only a couple of times, both of which were thrilling and frightening - once with a leopard and once with elephants), he makes an excellent presentation of the frictions between hunting and conservation, without either taking sides or becoming perjorative. Indeed, I thought his insights into the deep bonds between hunters and the wilderness captured well the views of my many hunter friends. A great read; Ginger, I think you will love it.

[Foster · Rating 2 out of 5]

I was excited for an account of Ridgeway's epic walk from the summit of Kilimanjaro to the shores of the Indian ocean, but this did not meet my expectations. My overall impression was that one of two things happened: 1) he didn't experience enough on the walk to build a book around so he had to add in a lot of information on Kenya's wildlife conservation community, or 2) he felt that a straight adventure book was too lowbrow, so focused instead on the wildlife conservation policy issues.

I was left wanting more about the walk itself, and less about the soap-opera type relations among Kenya's wildlife conservationists. Too bad this one was nowhere near as good as Below Another Sky.

[Terry · Rating 4 out of 5]

I didn't expect much from this book but was most pleasantly surprised. Ridgeway is an adventurer and conservationalist and this book contains his thoughts as he walks from the summit of Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean. Along the way we learn about African wildlife and the history of Tsavo National Parks, particularly the relationship between its elephants and the native and colonialist ivory hunters. Although there may be a balance needed between elephants and the commercial interests of nearby communities, I still feel that taking these intelligent creatures' lives is wrong. Great read!We watched Out of Africa as it concerns the same time/area.

[Ann Hein · Rating 5 out of 5]

Having been in Tanzania and Kenya, I especially liked this book. I could picture the animals and the scenery. The framework of the story is a hike from Mt. Kilimanjaro to the ocean. The group includes adventurers, photographers, and white and black natives of the area. So, intertwined with the walk is the recent history of conservation in Kenya including wardens and scientists studying the wild animals. We meet the natives, too, including the Waliangulu who hunted with huge longbows and who are now virtually extinct. Fascinating.

[David · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's been a few years since I read this, but overall I recommend it. Mr. Ridgeway uses his walk from Kili to the Indian Ocean (supported, of course, with trucks & crew hauling camp supplies and food, as well as company for companionship and safety), as an excuse to dive into the ecology and history of the region, with a focus on the game parks that were set up by the British.

It's worth a read if you are interested in conservation issues and conservation history, since these were really some of the original (and problematic) reserves set aside from development.

[Sue · Rating 3 out of 5]

Ridgeway spent several weeks as part of a group that trekked from Mt. Kilimanjaro across Kenya to Malindi and the Indian Ocean. This is the account of that adventure and the wild animal encounters along the way. But it is also a processing of the conflict between poaching and conservation and a history of the conflict in the creation of the national parks.
The trip portion was interesting to read. The history portion and commentary scattered throughout, while interesting, got tedious and I wanted him to get back to the travels.

[Davidka · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a brilliant book, telling of the past & present of the African National Parks. Told from the point of view of a walk from Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean with the sons of the ranger that helped create the parks.

I found it brilliantly descriptive & moving in it's narrative. It was a book I read form cover to cover in one sitting & when I put it down I started planning my first trip to Africa.

[Shawn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read this after our RTW and climbing Kili in October 2006 and while writing and editing a journal of our trip. Makes me wish for the gift of storytelling: the ability to weave innocuous observations and details into a cogent, interesting tale that keeps the readers entertained and brings the imagery alive. Alas.

Since we trod some of the same ground, I came away with a deeper and renewed appreciation of East Africa.

[Jonathan Bein · Rating 4 out of 5]

Everything you need in a great travel book. Ridgeway covers the early exploration of East Africa, the drama and politics of the Kenya Wildlife Service, and the cultural and natural history of a part of Kenya, all while crossing the terrain on foot. He does a wonderful job of taking the reader along and placing them in the action, whether that is a hundred years ago with the early white explorers, fifty years ago as the national parks were established, or on the trail today.

[Sheri · Rating 3 out of 5]

I read this to help prepare me for our trip to Tanzania this summer. It's about a walking safari from Kilimanjaro to the coast, and made me very glad that we won't be walking! It deals with issues concerning the management of wildlife and how that has evolved over the years. It's an interesting read.

[Tiffany Clapp · Rating 2 out of 5]

You can only read about acacia trees and other plants for so long. Not much of a story, just a long description of the sights they see as they hike in Tanzania- which is hard to visualize without having been there, since they name plants and animals that I had never heard of (prior to visiting).

If you are going to this area and want a good read- I'd recommend Karen Blixen's Out of Africa.

[Michael Harris · Rating 4 out of 5]

An APL Recycled reads find. This is another walking book this time "up Mount Kilimanjaro, down the East side and across Kenya to the Indian Ocean. Ridgeway walks with the sons of a great Park Warden of Kenya and covers much of the history of conservation of wildlife and creating the National Game Parks. It was well written and a very interesting read.

[Patagonia Books · Rating 5 out of 5]

In one of the most acclaimed travel and adventure books of 1999, Rick Ridgeway chronicles his trek from the summit of Mount Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean, through Kenya's famed Tsavo Park. His tale is, according to The Boston Globe, "a gripping account of how it feels to be charged by an incensed elephant and kept awake at night by the roaring of stalking lions."

[Karl Sauerwein · Rating 5 out of 5]

Had fun Reading this book.. Took my time looked up animals and plants that The author described to help me visualize it better. Good Read. Very informative and historical account of the national parks in Kenya and such intelligent dialogue on philosophical aspects on hunting and conservation. Oh and they made a fun trek across east Africa as well.

[Sheena · Rating 4 out of 5]

It's always interesting to read about your own country, particularly from the perspective of a non-natural.

This book taught me a lot about the history of wildlife conservation in Kenya and a little more about the animals we host. I enjoyed Rick's style of writing. The way he took us through the journey was detailed enough for me to form an image in my brain.

[Nia Harrison · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very insightful book that was able to remain engaging for the most part by sprinkling historical context throughout the discussion of the author's present-day journey. I really appreciated learning about the conflict been conservation vs. hunters and native tribes, along with what it's like to adventure through the wild and a bit of African history.

[Shobhit Dalal · Rating 3 out of 5]

This is more of a conservationist book than a travel memoir. No doubt it is about the foot journey from Kilimanjaro to Indian Ocean. But, more than 50% of the book details about the African wildlife conservation; primarily focused on elephant wildlife conservation.
Yet, it is a good read for those interested in the wildlife, culture and history of East Africa.

[Matthew · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ridgeway recounts a journey on foot to the pinnacle of Mt. Kilimanjaro and across the plains to the sea. Along the way he tells stories of the lands he walks through, the characters who shaped the wildlife conservation ethic in Kenya, and the amazing animals indigenous to the region.