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Three Moons in Vietnam: A Haphazard Journey by Boat and Bicycle
This is the story of the author and her husband's journey around the real Vietnam by leaky fishing boat, sampan and coracle, rickety bicycle and battered bus, a journey that took three full moons. It reveals a Vietnam where people survive their terrible past with dignity and humour.
310 pages, Paperback
First published January 2, 1996
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Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews
December 28, 2015
In 1994 America finally lifted its trade embargo on Vietnam ... "Within days, Miss Vietnam was advertising Pepsi on state television."
Make of that what you will. For travel writer Maria Coffey and her husband Dag, the new openness to tourists was an opportunity not to be missed. Inspired by their friends, an exiled Vietnamese couple living in England, they set out to journey the length of the country's coast from south to north, very much off the beaten track by boat and bicycle.
This method is against all advice. As a result they find themselves hiding from the corrupt and suspicious police wherever possible. Even then, they do get arrested. Well, sort of. Coffey calls it that, but taken down to the station for further questioning may be a more accurate description. A scary and uncertain moment, either way.
Along the way, Coffey attracts an unwonted audience whenever she goes to the toilet, receives an unlikely pop serenade from a group of drunken sailors ("We you ste lub me, too-morrow"), and eats some peanut brittle from hell.
As travel writers go, Coffey is fairly prosaic. Fortunately the nature of the trip itself is more than enough to make up for her functional style, as is her game and likeable personality. When she and Dag become friendly with a one-legged tramp child and his young sister, who sing and play the spoons to make a living, it's impossible not to be touched.
And the food! Dag eats everything just for the experience, including rat, while Maria is more circumspect, as I would have been. Much of the Vietnamese diet is repulsive and compelling at the same time to a Westerner with a delicate stomach like me. How about this little treat, as described by Binh, their guide for the first part of the trip:
"You know coconut frog? The farmer make hole in the young coconut and put inside baby frog. For three month the frog drink the coconut juice and eat the meat. Then the farmer break the coconut. The frog come out very fat and very white - delicious to eat."
I wonder if the McDonald's in Saigon serves that with the Pepsi?
Make of that what you will. For travel writer Maria Coffey and her husband Dag, the new openness to tourists was an opportunity not to be missed. Inspired by their friends, an exiled Vietnamese couple living in England, they set out to journey the length of the country's coast from south to north, very much off the beaten track by boat and bicycle.
This method is against all advice. As a result they find themselves hiding from the corrupt and suspicious police wherever possible. Even then, they do get arrested. Well, sort of. Coffey calls it that, but taken down to the station for further questioning may be a more accurate description. A scary and uncertain moment, either way.
Along the way, Coffey attracts an unwonted audience whenever she goes to the toilet, receives an unlikely pop serenade from a group of drunken sailors ("We you ste lub me, too-morrow"), and eats some peanut brittle from hell.
As travel writers go, Coffey is fairly prosaic. Fortunately the nature of the trip itself is more than enough to make up for her functional style, as is her game and likeable personality. When she and Dag become friendly with a one-legged tramp child and his young sister, who sing and play the spoons to make a living, it's impossible not to be touched.
And the food! Dag eats everything just for the experience, including rat, while Maria is more circumspect, as I would have been. Much of the Vietnamese diet is repulsive and compelling at the same time to a Westerner with a delicate stomach like me. How about this little treat, as described by Binh, their guide for the first part of the trip:
"You know coconut frog? The farmer make hole in the young coconut and put inside baby frog. For three month the frog drink the coconut juice and eat the meat. Then the farmer break the coconut. The frog come out very fat and very white - delicious to eat."
I wonder if the McDonald's in Saigon serves that with the Pepsi?
September 11, 2022
The first half of this book made Vietnam seem like a place to put at the bottom of the 'to visit' list but by the end of the book Vietnam had moved up the league table to a safe middle position. It was written about travel in the mid 90's and so probably not true of the country now. I found it inspiring and challenging but a little to grueling for me to want to emulate her cycle ride along the coast of Vietnam.
September 6, 2017
I've read this book a very long time ago, but still the memory of it lingers in my mind and it makes me want to travel to Vietnam.
January 9, 2019
a great read on an intrepid couple taking a trip through Vietnam on a non-tourist route to discover a real Vietnam
July 28, 2020
Enjoyed it...
March 23, 2009
I love reading about the travels and observations of others and this book is no exception. Maria Coffey's encounters are well observed and related and the sympathy and love she has for the people is very obvious and heart-warming.
The journey into the countryside by boat was fascinating and really makes me wish I could experience this all for myself too.
The journey into the countryside by boat was fascinating and really makes me wish I could experience this all for myself too.
December 21, 2014
This book allows a Vietnamese to better know her country. At the end, Maria's encounter with Bac, a street child, was well-described and could move anyone to tears... Despite the hassle of a rough trip, the human connection could still shine its beauty.
May 11, 2018
Beautifully written, and a brilliant capturing; the people of a place filled with great beauty and great death.
Displaying 1 - 8 of 8 reviews