The Maya are justly famous, if sometimes misunderstood, while John L. Stephens and Frederick Catherwood have been nearly forgotten. (Read William Carleson's fantastic book, Jungle of Stone: The Extraordinary Journey of John L. Stephens and Frederick Catherwood, and the Discovery of the Lost Civilization of the Maya to learn about their exploits).
Stephens is rightly honored today as the "father of Mayan studies," not only for his work as a writer and explorer but also for his sensible view that the ruins he found were of indigenous origin and of no tremendous age. In view of the wild theories then current, those opinions were valuable.
But in 1839, rumors of stone ruins buried in Mesoamerica reached the two intrepid travelers: American diplomat Stephens and British artist Catherwood (they both were already famous for their adventures in Egypt, the Holy Land, Greece, and Rome) and they sailed together on an expedition to present-day Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico. They were astonished by the ruins, first at Copan, Honduras finding them mysterious and romantically attractive. Once Stephens had fulfilled his diplomatic obligations, he and Catherwood traveled through difficult country to Palenque, Chiapas, Mexico where they spent three weeks, Catherwood produced a far better record of the architecture and sculpture than any previous visitor. They then sailed up the coast to the Yucatán Peninsula and, with Catherwood still very weak from malaria, they made only the briefest visit to Uxmal before going home.
Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan (1841) was one of the world’s first international best-sellers, with twenty-five hundred copies of the American edition sold in England even before the London edition appeared. In it, Stephens promised a sequel, describing other ruins he had heard of in Yucatán, and within a year he and Catherwood left on a second expedition. They went back to Uxmal, via Mayapán. This time both Stephens and Catherwood succumbed to malaria, but they soon recovered. Catherwood spent six weeks at Uxmal before they moved on to make a great discovery, the ruins of Kabah. There, they found two sculptured stone jambs and a carved wooden lintel, which they brought back to New York. Unfortunately, the lintel would be lost in a fire. Many other ruins previously unknown to the world at large were also described by them. One was the Yucatán site of Tulum; they lingered at the site of Chichén Itzá, noticing its distinct Toltec-related style of architecture and sculpture while correctly identifying the ballcourt as such. With so much new material, Incidents of Travel in Yucatan (1843) equaled the success of its predecessor. I have now read both volumes!
They are each available at Project Gutenberg for free.