Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-making book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometric shapes, and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. The book takes a creative approach to pattern making, with step-by- step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the muslins, and the finished garments.
After serving many years as a professor at Bunka Fashion College, Ms. Nakamichi currently delivers lectures and holds courses on design making, both in Japan and overseas.
I consider myself an above-average pattern maker for theatre, where we have to think oddly at times to get the job done, and this book just blows my mind. It seems to break every "rule" that I was taught with draping and flat patterning. The author drapes when I'd have tried to tackle it flat, and vice versa. It is almost awe inspiring... No, scratch that - it IS awe inspiring!
Intimidating and inspirational at the same time, Pattern Magic is not so much a "read" as a "see and ponder." The author, who was a professor at Bunka Fashion College, shows how very complex and unusual sculptural effects can be added to simple garments through experimental manipulation of paper. The paper pattern then can be translated into fabric. The weight, structure and stretch capabilities of the fabric influence the final product. It looks like play but the success of each design relies upon the precise measurements of the basic simple garment being manipulated. Intriguing. I was especially impressed with the author's careful demonstration of folding paper along a curved line in order to create unique collars. I have always had trouble tying a fabric bow. The author shows several bow shapes that are lovely and effective at adding emphasis to different areas of the bodice, not just the usual bow at the neckline or waistline. Nakamichi's designs are meant to spark a creative challenge to change and adapt them.
I've been seeing references to this book floating around for awhile, but it was only available in Japanese (not my strong suit). Imagine my excitement when I noticed on Amazon that it was being published in English. I couldn't wait to get my grubby little hands on it, and it did not disappoint. It's full of wacky things, not necessarily patterns I would want to wear. However, it makes you consider the basic principles of pattern making and manipulation. It's an excellent investment.
And for those Project Runway fans (or not-fans at this point)... yes, compare the Andy South blouse from the finale to the "Blouse with an interwoven design" on pages 56 & 82.
I purchased both this book and the sequel several years ago when they were only available in Japanese, so I can't read them, but the photos and diagrams are very clear and make excellent inspiration. Tomoko Nakamichi is obviously a very skilled patternmaker and draper and the clothes (shown on quarter-scale forms) are beyond creative. I haven't yet tried to scale any of the patterns up and make them myself, but this book is great to get ideas from for making your own unconventional patterns.
it's not a long book, but heavens the ideas make the head spin. This is one I will dip back into from time to time. It's amazing the things Nakamichi can make a piece of fabric do.
this is not a beginning pattern making book, this is a step beyond that.
Amazing and brain twisting. I am NOT a pattern maker and only an intermediate, but intrepid, sewist so actually reading through this book really stretches my sewing imagination. I love how beautifully this book is designed and photographed - the mini-size dress form is so cute. The author's explanation (or the translation of) is clear enough that even I can understand what her meaning is - well, for most of the projects. I cannot wait to try these out!
A wonderful collection of out-of-the-box pattern-making ideas that helped me understand the concept of adapting a flat plane into a three dimensional form in many different ways.